Project "Never Again" will I rebuild a perfectly good truck

[Ls68]

by the way im new to this forum.
Im building a SB 68 stepside with an LS1 but i still have a long ways to go.

[chapster]

LS68 I would have to go back and look up specs on the narrowing of the rear end but if I recall it was around 4.5" on a 67 12 bolt. I would recommend measuring 5 time over to make sure you get it right.

Your build sounds great, we need you to start a build thread. everyone on this forum are very easy going and helpful as you have build questions. They also get you into trouble when the addiction of "I have to have it" sets in.......lol

[Ls68]

chapster, thanks im thinking of going with some 18x10 & 18x13 boyd codington junk yard dogs but I guess I should order the wheels first then figer out what I need to narrow.

Yeah about the ''I have to have it'' this just my first week on this forum and I already found out what headers, motor mounts I need for my 68 LS swap. So Ill be ordering them this week.

[chapster]

Well finally got a chance to do a little work in the garage the last couple of day's.

First off, I highly recommend not doing the following as I am only half done and it is a big pain. I have polished many things over the years but SS air lines is my least favourite, but it sure looks good.....

After I completed 320, 400, brown, green then white polish compound I tried a product that I have never used before, "Sharkhide" anyone use this before?

[chapster]

Thought I would show a pics of the long box steps that I washed up. These would be the ones that came with the stepside fenders that had only 8000 miles before they were left to hang in a barn/shed. I have a local tire kicker already.....lol

Funds will go towards truck build......

[67cheby]

Nice job on the lines !
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

Thanks 67Cheby,

Only 3 more lines to go......lol

I can't wait until I get to where your truck build is, looking really, really good!

[Ls68]

looking good.

[chapster]

Finished polishing my last Swagelock Fitting for the front lines. I thought I would share what I used for anyone that want to go down this crazy process..........lol

The EXL blending wheel works wonders on getting the fittings prepped for polish compound. Only took 1hr start to finish per fitting.

[67cheby]

Wow
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Wow
Posted via Mobile Device

I know, I think I need my head examined.....lol

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by chapster

Only took 1hr start to finish per fitting.

Cripes and I complain about it taking 4 hours per wheel on mine. And I've just done 2 so far because I'm driving it too much to take the others off to polish.

[classicchev]

Must the the air in Alberta, I have. Friend here that polishes everything, even the washes that you can't see. Hopefully I don't breathe too much and get that addiction too.

looking good Btw
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

thought I wold update a little,

Painted the LS2 block and components Dupont alum. with it's finest flake and the 4L65E Dupont Jet Black, both base/clear. I used a matting agent in the clear to give as flat of a look I could get that I thought would look somewhat factory.

[chapster]

Also painted the No limit R & P as the factory finish in the same flat Alum. base/ clear.

[chapster]

Next the fun begins, I am in the process of mocking up the No Limit R & P prior to starting to grind a freshly painted frame. I will try and give as muck detail as I have not done a R & P before and would love to hear any observation I may be doing wrong or feedback from anyone that has already done this.

Note: through out my pics you will notice I am missing some hardware (no worries, I will contacting suppliers to get if I cannot find locally).

[chapster]

Prior to diving into the R & P I switched out the links on the porterbuilt sway bar. The first think I noticed is that the link bolts are a different diameter so the bushing washer ID is small for the new link bolts and I will need to get some nuts to fit locally(not a bid deal as I will phone Nate for the proper bushing washer...should only be 2 weeks.....lol)

The next thing I noticed is that the bushings that were installed were moving and distorting from movement of the air system testing, is this a common thing?

Pics below....

[chapster]

Next I measured the center location of the R & P.

[chapster]

Once I double and triple checked my center location I mounted the R & P to the bracket.
The next observation was that the Aluminum clamp needs to be counterbored to allow bolts to secure the R & P body along with cleaning the look of it a bit. I have access to a mill so I will do that next week.

[chapster]

next was to measure .250" of excess thread showing on the end joint and install on rod end.

second pic is the unit mocked up showing alignment mark. Please chime in if something looks off. So far everything looks to be really nice stuff and self explanatory.

[chapster]

Next I show pics of the areas I will need to remove (explained in the instructions to check for clearance issues).

[chapster]

Because I do not want to drill/grind anything yet I used smaller diameter bolts to imitate the fastening of the end joints. Rob if you read this I did receive the grade 8 bolt and nuts for the rod joints but still need washers. If you or anyone with this kit can let me know the outside dimension of the washer (as it is larger than a standard washer) I can go get them locally.

Now for the one of the items that start to concern me. If you look at the alignment it is way out of wack. I know I know everything is loose and mocked up but just hear me out. It is almost like the R & P is not in it's center position which would allow to adjust without severe rod length issues.

[chapster]

My second concern is when aired out the clearance is pretty tight. If the wheels were turned I an sure there would be issues. See below.

[Xeen]

Its hard to tell from the photo angles you have given but if I had to guess your Camber is way out of wack which is drawing the Tie Rods close to the Swaybar mount. One of the Porterbuilt guys would be able to look and tell you whats going on better than I since its their suspension hardware, though I have to admit the Swaybar mounting location seems uncomfortably close to the Tie Rods.
Out of curiosity are your Upper Control arms on the correct sides?
You are definately right about it there is something not right with it.
Its almost like the Tie Rod connecting Arms on the Spindles arent long enough.
Then again you arent supposed to be steering your truck when its an inch off the ground anyway, there is a Minimum ride height where everything will clear and function normally, and im pretty sure at ride height the Tie Rod would be below the lower control arm and it wouldnt be an issue, so air it up and look at the tolerances.
It is possible that your R&P is mounted too far back though and moving it towards the front bumper would fix the issue.
Are those Spindles garunteed compatable with the Porterbuilt suspension hardware, what brand and model number are they?
I dunno man without being there to look at the thing its impossible to say, im just guessing grasping at straws here haha

[chapster]

Thanks for the reply Xeen, I am hoping with people looking at it and asking questions that I can fill in the missing info and spark an idea.

Answers to some of the questions:

You are correct (and I have a pic of it aired up somewhere) that when aired up it does seem to have plenty of clearance even if turning the wheels. A person cannot really prove any of that until he has it mounted and the steering linkage hooked up.

The spindles are CPP modular for the big brake set ups and are recommended by porterbuilt.

I also have thought about the possibility of the wheel position having to be straight before aired out but I did check with Nate a couple of times of the compatibility of the two products and he said they worked well together and that he had customers with this set up. That is why I assumed I have missed something.

This is also only a stage one drop, not sure if that helps anyone.