Ultimate work truck/ 70 K10 diesel

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by woodwright

You might check into running a Chevy one. Might be easier.

I don't think the chevy one will have enough pressure to operate my heavier load pressure plate.

[woodwright]

I thought you were talking about the hydroboost.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm definitely using a chevy hydraboost.

[woodwright]

I cut out and patched the original mount location for the throttle peddle. After that, all I had to do is drill 3 holes and the 72 peddle assembly bolted right on.


I still have to file the cable hole square, and modify my cable a little, but the peddles are done.

The original heater assembly won't work with the turbo, so I've been looking for an alternate. I ran out to the local pick a part today, and stomped around looking at different heater setups. What I ended up bringing home was the non AC heater assembly from a mid 80's chevy truck. The airbox on the firewall is really small, and lines up with the factory outside air intake. The heater core is inside the inner heater assembly, which fits pretty well under the dash.






The firewall hump is a little deeper on the older trucks, so I need to bend the heater assembly a little where it runs over in front of the hump.

I took a pie cut section out of it. The back wall of it is tin so it bends real easy. Tomorrow, I'm gonna go rent a plastic welder and put it back together. I still need to patch the unused holes in the firewall, and build an extension for where the outside air comes in.

The controls from the square body truck won't work as is, because of how the cables need to go. But I'll figure something out. The later model heater assemblies don't use cable pulls, they use small electric solenoids. I've already got the covers off the rear heater in my suburban, so tomorrow I'm gonna see how those work and if I can adapt them. I don't really like the cable controls. They tend to get sticky over time, and then the levers are snapping off.

While I was at the yard I found a late 90's tahoe with a very nice 2nd row leather seat just like this one.

It will end up costing me $20. I think I'm gonna grab it.

[VA72C10]

Nice progress! And can't go wrong for $20...that's a steal...

[madcow75]

I guess you can't go wrong with $20. I just spent $250 on the same set of sets for my 76CC.

[woodwright]

Nobody in town had a plastic welder, and I ended up not needing it. I just used my soldering iron and the pieces I cut off.

It was actually pretty easy and only took about 20 minutes. Once I got it braced together, I used the soldering iron to melt the two pieces together to "tack" it together in the corners and every 1 or so. After that I melted a furrow at the seam, and then melted the cut off material into the furrow. Then smoothed the seam with the iron as I went.

It worked surprisingly well.

[madcow75]

Wow that actually looks good. Sometimes I guess you need to make do with what you have.

[mknittle]

That looks good. I will have the same problem before long that looks like a good way to go!

[woodwright]

Originally Posted by mknittle

That looks good. I will have the same problem before long that looks like a good way to go!

The problem you're gonna run into, is the controls. the cables are too long, and the heater/defrost lever is right behind where the controls need to be. You can probably shorten the two longer cables, but you would need to work out a linkage setup for the defrost/heat lever. Personally, I don't like the cable slides. I am trying to adapt the dial controls from a late model. I'll post some pics.

[woodwright]

I decided against the suburban 2nd row seat. Its not gonna work very well with my high hump floor. The center leg would have to be severely modified, and it probably wouldn't be able to roll forward. So I'm gonna keep my eyes open for a split bench front seat.


I've spent the last week learning how the later model HVAC controls work. They use electric servos to open and close the inner door instead of the cables. Since I'm not gonna have AC, all I need is fan, zone control, and temp. Heres the head unit I'm gonna use.

I'm gonna build a new face plate, and new dials if I can find them. Something that looks a little more period correct.

Today I worked on getting the servos mounted. I took some 12-24 capture nuts and used the soldering iron to melt them into the backside of the case.


Added some 3/4" nylon spacers and bolts.



I've still gotta build the linkage, and figure out how to mount the head unit.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by woodwright

The problem you're gonna run into, is the controls. the cables are too long, and the heater/defrost lever is right behind where the controls need to be. You can probably shorten the two longer cables, but you would need to work out a linkage setup for the defrost/heat lever. Personally, I don't like the cable slides. I am trying to adapt the dial controls from a late model. I'll post some pics.

Thanks Clint, the more info the better.

[freakshow108]

I'm digging how you are making it all work how you want it. I can't wait to see this come together!
Posted via Mobile Device

[woodwright]

I think I'm gonna use these knobs.

I'm gonna cut a new face out of 1/8" aluminum with the waterjet. I'm thinking of making a plate that runs across the whole lower recessed area that includes the key and cig lighter. I'll probably throw in my glow plug button too. I just don't want it too blingy. maybe I'll powdercoat it black.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by woodwright

I think I'm gonna use these knobs.

I'm gonna cut a new face out of 1/8" aluminum with the waterjet. I'm thinking of making a plate that runs across the whole lower recessed area that includes the key and cig lighter. I'll probably throw in my glow plug button too. I just don't want it too blingy. maybe I'll powdercoat it black.

That would look nice. I am thinking about making a frame to adapt the dodge ones from my doner truck. I figure that I can make one from 1"X1/8" flat that fits the stock holes.Maybe Ill paint it hammered black.

[woodwright]

Haven't updated in a while. I've been focusing on getting the heater done. I got the servos mounted, the relay mount mounted, and all the linkage done. Then I took the harness all apart, and reran it how it needed to go. I had to cut and splice alot of wires, but I took my time and soldered and heat shrinked everything.

I've got the firewall patches tacked in, but I need to get some more Argon before I can final weld them.

I'm hoping I can get my faceplate cut this week. I've got the Cad file done, I just need time on the waterjet. And I got my knobs. They're gonna look sweet with the brushed aluminum face. I also ordered the twin stick shift boot for my TC from JB Custom Fab. It was only $20 without the metal ring. I'll make one out of 1/8" Aluminum.

[woodwright]

Got my faceplate cut yesterday.

The space on the left is for my glowplug button. I'm gonna fill the holes and slots with liquid plastic. Red and blue for the temp knob, and probably smoked for the rest. Its backlit so it should shine in the dark. I'm trying to figure out the best fasteners to use. I would like to blind fasten it somehow. I'm gonna play with drilling shallow holes in the back and epoxying studs in.

[madcow75]

custom fabrication at it's finest. You are making alot of us jealous of rosources.

[woodwright]

Did some swapping last week, and actually came out ahead. I traded a beat down 93 Suburban,

For a lifted K5 with a blown motor and brand new 35s.

Pulled the tires and traded it for a 64 chevyII.


Its got a straight 6 and powerglide and runs and drives pretty good. I'd like to put a 5 speed in it, new seats, a little body work and drive it.

[Dieselwrencher]

Great trading and sweet work on the face plate! That is pretty dang cool!

[woodwright]

I got the knobs on and the faceplate finish sanded. brushed finish with 220 grit.

Its hard to see, but I used 4-40 brass bolts with countersunk heads to mount the face. I filed the heads down until they were smooth and then epoxied them into the face. I think when they tarnish and darken it'll look pretty cool. Kinda steampunkish. I'm gonna try to add a few more touches to the interior.

Heres the brains behind the operation.

[Dieselwrencher]

That will look cool Clint! Nice looking, uh house horse?

[woodwright]

He's actually only about 65 lbs. He's boxer and healer. Good dog, dumb as a post.

[woodwright]

Got everything mounted, and put in my glow plug button.


All I got left to do is add the colored plastic to the slots and holes. I've got a ton of plastic 1 gal. jugs. I'm gonna try to melt some down and tint it.

[Dieselwrencher]

Good luck, I can't wait to see how that turns out. That could be a cool trick for lots of projects.