Project: 1966 Stepside LWB

[Captainfab]

Thw way I usually check them is with a spark plug and a plug wire on the cap. Just ground the plug and crank the engine and see if you get a spark on the plug. Speaking of grounds, do you have a ground from your battery to the engine?

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

Hey Captain, yeah, it is hard to diagnose online. I am sure that I have the hot wire going to the BATT (red wire to the coil, not the yellow or black). I pulled it out about 20 min ago and scuffed up the connectors and grounds with some sandpaper to make sure they are contacting well, then put it back in with extra care that all of the connections are in there good. I tested to see if it would heat up and after 5 min, it wasn't warm. I may have fixed it, or I fried the coil last time.

How can I test a coil? I have a multimeter.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, I will try that tomorrow.

I have the main ground from the battery to the water pump, from the battery to the passenger inner fender, and additionally I have a ground strap from the rear of the block to the firewall. I think this is sufficient, right?
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[Captainfab]

Yes that should be sufficient.....hmmmmm I don't know what to think.

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

Ok, I will try that tomorrow.

I have the main ground from the battery to the water pump, from the battery to the passenger inner fender, and additionally I have a ground strap from the rear of the block to the firewall. I think this is sufficient, right?
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[b2948kevin]

Ok, I didn't get around to putting wires on this and testing the coil, but I did get the radiator installed along with the throttle linkage I fabricated and all of the fuel lines. I turned the motor over a bit and I heard the distributor snapping. No overheating this time. I wonder if just reseating and checking grounds fixed it...

Also, I primed the fuel lines and confirmed that the mechanical fuel pump is working, so I lucked out on having a cam lobe to run the pump.

Next step is to get the right radiator hoses, install the fan, install the wires and start her up!

One question - I have an 18" clutch fan and new clutch. I have a 3" spacer, but with everything mounted, I am still 2.5" away from the radiator. Is this too far away? Should i get a 4.5" spacer? I read somewhere that it should be 1" away from the radiator. I am trying to get away with not using a fan shroud if I can help it.
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[Captainfab]

I don't think moving the fan 1.5" is going to make a big difference. On my son's '63 the fan is a couple inches away from the radiator, without a shroud. It cools just fine, but IMO that is an exception. Typically a shroud is needed to cool the engine properly. You might get lucky and not need a shroud.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, I think I'll leave it with the 3" in there then. I would like to not have to chase down a shroud, but I guess if I have to, I will.

I got a 16" 1.75" flex hose for the lower radiator hose and put it on tonight. I then put the fan, alternator belt, and wires on the motor tonight. The only thing that I don't have is the upper radiator hose which I hope to find tomorrow sometime and then try to fire the motor up.

The issue that I am going to have is that the thermostat cover is 1.5" and the radiator is 1.75, so I need to find a 26" 1.75x1.5" flex hose which nobody seems to have.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, I searched and searched this site to find solid information on a radiator hose that will fit my application and came up with some information that was almost there, but not quite. Here is the information on Radiator Flex Hoses that worked for me.

Note that I have an 86 Chevy 350 in a 66 C10 with a new V8 replacement radiator with the top outlet on the driver's side and the lower outlet on the passenger side and 1.75" outlets on both top and bottom. My thermostat cover (top engine coolant inlet on the intake manifold) is 1.5" in diameter, and my water pump outlet is 1.75"in diameter.

For the lower flex hose, I got the 16.5" long 1.75" diameter (on both ends) Gates hose part #26502. I could have gotten one an inch or two shorter and it would have fit just as well. I don't think you want to go any longer, though it wouldn't kill.

For the upper flex hose, I got the 23.5" long 1.75" diameter (on both ends) Good Year part #52823. Since I have a 1.5" thermostat cover, I just got 2 band clamps and clamped them down real well and secure. I read about someone who used a 2"piece of 1.5" hose and put it on the cover, then put the 1.75" hose over that, but I didn't have any 1.5" around, so this worked for me. Also, you could go a few inches longer on this without issue, but any shorter and this hose wouldn't have fit.

I hope this helps someone else.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, so I get the radiator hose on, I get the coolant filled up, I rig up a radiator overflow tank and put gas in. I choke the carb, prime the fuel lines and crank the engine over and all the sudden, she just comes to life! Fires right up like I shut it off yesterday!

I have no mufflers or exhaust, so it's loud, as you would imagine, but she's working! I let it run for about 20 min to bring it all up to temperature and make sure that I got the thermostat opened up nicely. I then had to go help a friend nearly all day so I didn't get to play around with it much more than that.

One question - The header pipes on cylinder # 6 and 8 are looking more gray than the others. The heat is burning the factory black paint off of the exhaust headers, though 6 and 8 are getting hotter than the rest and burning the paint off quicker. Could this just be due to airflow in the engine compartment (those are more sheltered than any of the others), or is there a reason that the exhaust out of 2 cylinders may be hotter than the rest? Am I getting worked up over nothing?

[Captainfab]

I wouldn't worry about it too much until you get some mufflers on it, and get the timing set correctly. Also the factory paint on headers is not high temp paint. It is just regular paint to keep them from rusting before the customer gets them.

[wannagettachevy]

GOD I LOVE THE COLOR OF THIS TRUCK! that flat orange especially in the first few pictures really gets me hard. this build has made it to my "favorites" bar on my browser for that reason!

[b2948kevin]

HAh, thanks! I am keeping the color for sure. Glad I am not the only one reading this!

[b2948kevin]

Ok, my wife is home now so I promise some pictures soon. I can officially drive my truck now! I had pulled the driveline off to do new u-joints, but it wasn't until today that I actually got them all in and completed.

I have the two piece driveline so I had to get the front u- joint yoke (trans to driveline), Precision brand part number 331, the driveline middle support bearing Federal Mogul brand part number HB-88017-a, and 2 Precision brand part number 369 (middle u-joint and rear from driveline to rear end).

If you are like I was and don't know how to replace u-joints, check YouTube for some good instructional videos.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, here are the pics as promised! Sorry it took so long, just had to get the camera back.

First and foremost, here's a pic of the whole truck in case you forgot what it looks like.

[b2948kevin]

Pocs of the engine compartment. Let me know if you have questions about anything in here.

[b2948kevin]

Still not sure about how I should route the plug wires. I've never had to do this before. Any ideas?

[b2948kevin]

Last couple pics of the engine compartment and the last one of the u-joint that I replaced from tranny to driveline. Doesn't look like much, but it's brand new. All of the U-Joints are brand new now.

I still need a dust cover for the HEI distributor. I have it in my cart at summit racing, but trying to think of what else I need so I can consolidate shipping.

I have an Edelbrock aircleaner that will look nice on here, but I haven't put it on since I haven't done any tuning yet.

[b2948kevin]

Also, someone asked about my Harley FLH Shovelhead. Below is a pic of it. Sorry it's small.

75 FLH nearly all original with the exception of the slip-on pipes and the paint work on the tank. The blue is all original.

[Captainfab]

I've never had very good luck routing ready made plug wires. There always seem to be some that are way too long and hard to route out of the way.

Engine looks good. I see you still need a breather in one valve cover and a pcv in the other. Those would be something you could add to your Summit cart. If I may make a suggestion. If you swap sides with the valve covers, it will be easier to add oil when the time comes. Plus that is how they were from the factory.

[smilts60]

I have to agree with Captainfab, I generaly buy Accel wires. Then I can cut them to length I want to route them however I want them routed.

[k1rodeoboater]

How'd you get the carrier bearing off of there? I need to do mine eventually and figured I woudl have to take it to a shop to do it.
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[b2948kevin]

Hah! I guess you're right Captain. I didn't even think about it until you pointed that out.

Also, I didn't even know you could get custome fit wires. I am going to have to look into these...

[b2948kevin]

K1, it's easier than I thought it would be. To do this, you have to pull the front driveline assembly off. There is a little cover plate that slides on right up next to the bearing that I pulled with a gear puller. You could probably use a hammer to tap around the edge to get it off also. After that was off, I stood the driveline up vertically and pushed down on the bearing and it slid off.

I also sprayed the whole assembly down with WD40 and scraped all of the nasty old grease off of there before I did this. I am sure that helped a lot.

Remember that the wide rubber flange goes toward the engine, and remember to pack grease in on the bearing before you put that little cover back on.

[Captainfab]

You can shorten the wires you have if you want. You will just need the wire terminals for the distributor end, and a crimping tool. I usually use some silicone spray to help sliding the boots off and on. You should be able to find the wire terminals at a good auto parts such as NAPA. You will need a wire terminal crimp tool that will make the 'W' crimp necessary for plug wire terminals. If nothing else, you can order those terminals and the tool from Summit.

As for routing the wires, anymore I prefer to run them along the lower edge of the valve cover and around the back of the valve cover to the distributor. I really like the wire looms made by R&M Specialties....Summit has them too.

[b2948kevin]

Thanks for the info again I am building a long shopping list...

So, I took this out for a quick test drive around the block. Man, it's loud! It's to be expected, but I couldn't hear anything during the whole ride. I am looking to get some exhaust quotes for this right now. Anyone know what I should expect to pay for exhaust from the headers back with Magnaflow mufflers? Any tips on doing this?

[Captainfab]

It's been so long since I've had an exhaust installed, I wouldn't have a clue these days. I do know that Magnaflow has an exhaust kit for the '63-'72 trucks.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-16643/

This is the one used on the C10 that was build on the 'Trucks' show on Spike TV