Attempt/Mistake #2

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by El Campo

I am at work right now but I will get you all that when I get a chance. I know it's 11:1 compression, and has a Xtreme Energy 292 mechanical roller. Has a Proform 950 carb ( the fuel/air was perfect when it was dynoed). The shop that I had it at thought that the reason it fell off at those RPMs was because of the 4.5 inch stroke. Seemed odd to me that it peaked at such low RPM though. The cam isn't massive (which the heads woul benefit from) because the truck is street driven. I called Comp Cams before I bought everything and this is the one they recommended. Another thing that was odd to me was that it made max power with only 32 degrees of total timing!! That was before I had the MSD though (not sure if that makes any difference) I would be happy to spend some money on the engine if it would help my power if I knew what to do. I had old trashy 1.5 inch no name headers on it when was dynoed. I have since gotten these 1 7/8 inch primary Hookers. 3 inch dual exhausts.

The 565 in my best friends dragster makes the best power at 34 degrees so 32 is not far off. I wouldn't go any higher than 34, on the dyno it fell off in power quickly above that. The stroke will lower the power band but not that far. You should be in the 6500 to 7000 rpm range for peak power with what you have.

Your headers are tiny for that big of an engine and may be the reason it falls on its face at such a low RPM, it just can't breathe. A 2" tube is a little small for that engine so look for a set of 2-1/8" tube headers. It would probably be happy with 2-1/4" tubes like we run on the 565 with the combination you have as well if you find a good deal on a set.

3" duals should be OK as long as the bends are mandrel bends and not crush type. Typical muffler shop crush type hydraulic bends in a 3" pipe will restrict its flow down to that of a 2-1/2" pipe or smaller depending upon the bend radius. Way too small for your engine.

The rest of your package sounds like a good parts match for the cubes. I think most of your problem is in the exhaust side.

You could also be getting some valve float from too little valve spring pressure if the wrong springs were used. Check your seat and open pressure to make sure they match up with what Comp says the cam needs.

[El Campo]

The entire valvetrain is from Comp Cams. I bought the entire matched roller cam, lifters, springs, keepers, timing chain, thrust button that they recommended and they were assembled at Competion Products. I had wondered about the header size too. I will try the new to me Hookers that I just got since I have them and see if I notice any improvement and will keep eyes out for an even bigger set. Would compression make a difference as to necessary header size? Is it an alcohol dragster or gas. If you have really high compression like 14:1 or so then does that make you need bigger headers? I wonder if I could fit big tube headers in to the frame ?
I found this article which is quite interesting!!

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...s/viewall.html

[El Campo]

TchncnDen interesting points you bring up. Sam Walton once said that "The customer is the only boss, if he goes away we all do". Now a lot of people may hate on Walmart and the corporation he built BUT he did come from nothing and became the head of the (at one time) wealthiest family on earth if IIRC. Now I agree that there are many ways to skin a cat many times but there are basic fundamentals that are absolutes. Clean, bare, grease and dirt free metal is like clean air and fresh water to us humans. We can all agree that it is superior to anything else. And I may not know a lot about painting (I don't) but consider another parable. A few years ago a medical student from Harvard (I think) who was historically brilliant attempted to hike the Grand Canyon going on information that she "knew". An avid runner she had ran and finished the Boston Marathon and numerous other marathons. BUT she DIED from dehydration because she did not do proper preparation. On the other hand my brothers and I had no prior experience, could never run a marathon, my brother and I both dropped out of high school and we have hiked it 3 times without incident. This was all because we did not go on our own thinking and ideas, we followed advice from others, we did PROPER PREPARATION. My beef with the shop is not so much about the materials as it is about the preparation and execution (which we all know is 90% of a paint job). And just because I am a nurse instead of a painter does not automatically erase all of my credibility. I have a thirst for learning still that I feel is lacking in the shop that did it. And THAT makes a big difference in improving and getting better results. Ever read the book "Who Moved My Cheese"? Obviously there are many many people that would do a better job than I ever will. But we will keep striving to be better and never being satisfied with stasis. Just my opinion and why I do things the way I do.

[TchncnDen]

Ever read the book "Who Moved My Cheese"?

I haven't read that one, but I'll put it on my list. The description seems interesting enough. I forgot to mention that your build is looking good, love the boxed frame, and yes I can definately agree clean metal is the best way to start.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by El Campo

The entire valvetrain is from Comp Cams. I bought the entire matched roller cam, lifters, springs, keepers, timing chain, thrust button that they recommended and they were assembled at Competion Products. I had wondered about the header size too. I will try the new to me Hookers that I just got since I have them and see if I notice any improvement and will keep eyes out for an even bigger set. Would compression make a difference as to necessary header size? Is it an alcohol dragster or gas. If you have really high compression like 14:1 or so then does that make you need bigger headers? I wonder if I could fit big tube headers in to the frame ?

I have had the wrong parts put onto a set of heads by the machine shop before. The guy putting them together after the machine work was done didn't see the note to use the customer supplied parts and just put them together with their typical hydraulic flat tappet cam parts and not the ones I gave them for my roller cam. Just because of my past experience I would like to verify the spring pressures are what they should be for your cam.

There is quite a bit of room for bigger tubes in our trucks. You will most likely need square body clam shell style motor mounts to clear the front tubes but this will open up the use of more headers intended for square bodies that may not be designed for 67-72 mounts.

This pic is of the clearance on my 69 with 1-3/4" tubes and square body motor mounts. Lots of room for more tube size if they are routed right.

[El Campo]

Boxed frame is a PITA though and wouldn't do it again! I have those clam style mounts already. There is a bunch of room by the mounts but gets close to frame rail. There is some room though. I really want long tube headers but I do not want to pay to get custom ones made. Hooker has a 2 inch primary for our trucks but nothing bigger. If I understand it the collector length is important too so my next question is would it be better to have a 2 inch primary but full length or going to some Chevelle headers which can get 2 1/4 but are a lot shorter?
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[68 TT]

Originally Posted by El Campo

Boxed frame is a PITA though and wouldn't do it again! I have those clam style mounts already. There is a bunch of room by the mounts but gets close to frame rail. There is some room though. I really want long tube headers but I do not want to pay to get custom ones made. Hooker has a 2 inch primary for our trucks but nothing bigger. If I understand it the collector length is important too so my next question is would it be better to have a 2 inch primary but full length or going to some Chevelle headers which can get 2 1/4 but are a lot shorter?

I would go with the 2" tube full length tuned version before a shorter set with bigger tubes that are not tuned length tubes.

I have a set of the standard Hooker Competition series 2" tube headers that fit a 68-72 Chevelle and 70-81 Camaro that I was going to try to fit to my 69 stepside. I will see if they clear and let you know. It might open up some options for more headers than could fit with little or no mods.

[butternut1972]

Nice work on the frame. I'm happy to see that others have the same OCD issues I have. Going to be a nice truck when your done.

[litew8]

It's been a week since you last posted, did you get it all back together yet

[El Campo]

Finally had a chance to work on truck again. Spent a BUNCH of time spraying just these 27 parts. I see now why people use rattle cans because it sure is easier than a spray gun. (especially when your small gun is a POS from Harbor Freight) Got so infuriated with it I contemplated buying an Iwata. It dripped paint over my perfectly painted sway bar because it sporadically ejaculated paint from various orfices where it was not supposed to. Now the parts all are satisfactory though after wet sanding etc.

[El Campo]

The trailing arms in the picture above as well as these wheels will be for sale. I finally figured out how to get my wheels polished. PITA!!!! Turned out well though I think. Anyone want some 20x10s????

[NewType72]

wow those rockers look really good in there and nice job on the black pieces some stuff just can't get covered by powdercoating (shocks) great idea

[El Campo]

jmdero I see you looking at this thread. Without you the wheels would never look like this. Thanks dude!!! The shocks are KYB but of course the crap coating from the factory rusted immediately. Springs are SOOO hard to paint!!! I will definitely powdercoat them in the future.

[jackson]

Originally Posted by El Campo

jmdero I see you looking at this thread. Without you the wheels would never look like this. Thanks dude!!! The shocks are KYB but of course the crap coating from the factory rusted immediately. Springs are SOOO hard to paint!!! I will definitely powdercoat them in the future.

you wouldnt have a spare bench seat would you

[Bennett68C10]

Suspension parts look great all painted up, nice job

[jus2qwk]

I may be interested in the wheels.. pm sent

[67c10rustbuket]

Looking good man ! I have a paint gun that did that, had to buy a new lid so it wouldnt drip.

Whats the secret on polishing the wheels? My billets are pretty scuzzy and I need to get them polished back up someday soon. Later

[TchncnDen]

Finally had a chance to work on truck again. Spent a BUNCH of time spraying just these 27 parts. I see now why people use rattle cans because it sure is easier than a spray gun. (especially when your small gun is a POS from Harbor Freight) Got so infuriated with it I contemplated buying an Iwata. It dripped paint over my perfectly painted sway bar because it sporadically ejaculated paint from various orfices where it was not supposed to. Now the parts all are satisfactory though after wet sanding etc.

I think if you tried to paint that many small pieces with a rattle can your trigger finger would feel like it's going to fall off by the third piece, a gun is definately the way to go. Iwata's are nice, but they aren't magic. It's still going to be 98% technique. Unless your going to do a lot of painting I wouldn't bother buying a top of the line gun, just tape a rag around the cup to keep it from dripping next time. I got out of the business in 94 so all of my guns are old school siphon feed and they all work fine. You said ejaculated

[67cheby]

Mic work , great polishing job
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[El Campo]

Look at this link for how to do the wheels. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485766 I had real hell trying to get them polished until jmdero clued me in how to do it. First I hit them with Allbrite wire wheel acid for one minute and then washed off very well (found out that if you have a brush and agitate the suds on the wheel during this one minute it works much better yet even). I had some nasty deep pits on them and had to end up wetsanding the hoops (in some spots all the way down to 400 grit) and then working up to 2000. Then I used some Master Formula (brand) jewelers rouge that I got at the Rot biker rally a few weeks ago and a cotton polishing wheel that cost 3 dollars at HF on my 90 degree die grinder. This is how they turned out. Takes time but the results speak for themselves. Then I sealed them with Master Formula sealer which they say will keep them oxidation free even in Texas for 6 months. I am going to do the billet gauge bezel on Monday and will post step by step pictures of it. It is brushed aluminum but am going to polish it to match the wheels as I am not crazy about the brushed look.

[El Campo]

TechncDan yea the HF gun actually sprayed pretty well and I will use it again for small parts. I liked it a lot better than the devilBiss Finishline that I also tried on them. Sure would like to have a little better quality touch up gun though but you are correct that a 600 dollar gun is probably unnecessary haha. Unfortunately for me I lack significantly in that 98% department!

[WIDESIDE72]

I had a great uncle who lived in El Camo for years. He was a diesel mechanic for Halliburton before he retired. His name was Raymond Williams. He could set up new gears in a rear end in about an hour and made everything look easy. Unfortunately he passed away last year. My great aunt still lives there, though. BTW, I would like more info on using the Sanden compressor in the stock mounts.
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[El Campo]

WIDESIDE72 I will be happy to provide you with the info when I get to that point. Might even make an extra set of brackets for it that I would sell for a few bucks if you are interested while I am at it.

[zpi28]

Is this going to be a show only truck? Just curious you are very meticulous and it shows. That is going to be one beautiful, clean truck that will outlast all of us. I am at awe with the amount of work you have put into the frame. Good Luck.

[El Campo]

Nope. It will never actually be IN a show. Except maybe local car shows. Its going to be a driver. I am planning on driving the wheels off of it. I just did a crappy job the first go around and the bitterness of that is still strong inside me. I learned the hard way that those grade 8 bolts that everyone puts in uncoated for example WILL rust when you are close to the coast. So this is why I am probably too OCD. Thanks for looking.