All about heaters.

[hfcarolina]

Have two left over when tried to match core, you need one from a Corvette
57-59 off I remember buy thru Nappa.
I have one PSHc. # 91477 also
Vista pro # 0399056, pwo 7566365

My ph #828-349-3102.
Franklin,NC

Call if I can help, Howard Flett

[Captainfab]

Finding the correct core size is not the problem. I can get the '64-'66 heater core no problem, just have to have the one end switched. I went to our last radiator shop in town today to find that they have closed for good. Today was their last day. Now I have to drive 35 miles each way, to the next closest radiator shop.

I was hoping that by now someone would be making the correct heater core with the correct tubes, without having the added expense of having to have one end switched.

[Johns66]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Finding the correct core size is not the problem. I can get the '64-'66 heater core no problem, just have to have the one end switched. I went to our last radiator shop in town today to find that they have closed for good. Today was their last day. Now I have to drive 35 miles each way, to the next closest radiator shop.

I was hoping that by now someone would be making the correct heater core with the correct tubes, without having the added expense of having to have one end switched.

I may buy one of these below for my 66 and see how it fits.

http://www.classictruck.com/product/...itioning_Items

[T and S]

Heater box all rebuilt and painted and installed. One point - I think most folks know this but just a reminder. The blower motors get it's electrical ground through the housing, so after painting make sure when assembling to have a good metal to metal contact somewhere all the way through to include the firewall or the blower will not run.

[tc64]

thanks to everyone for the help,final result BAD WIRE tucked way up in the dash,works like it should now!

[ncoonen]

I have the deluxe heater box with factory air in my '65 C30. It has the under hood heater box on the right in the picture below. I am trying to R and R the heater core but I cannot remove the top from the heater box. I have removed all the sheet metal screws and the five bolts holding the warm air manifold to the firewall. Do I need to remove the whole assembly and split it open on the workbench? The under-dash situation inside the truck is more complex and cluttered because of the factory air so it would be nice not to have to disassemble all that to get to the mounting studs behind the blower motor.

Advice? Thanks!...ned.

[Metalaroundstone]

Originally Posted by ncoonen

I have the deluxe heater box with factory air in my '65 C30. It has the under hood heater box on the right in the picture below. I am trying to R and R the heater core but I cannot remove the top from the heater box. I have removed all the sheet metal screws and the five bolts holding the warm air manifold to the firewall. Do I need to remove the whole assembly and split it open on the workbench? The under-dash situation inside the truck is more complex and cluttered because of the factory air so it would be nice not to have to disassemble all that to get to the mounting studs behind the blower motor.

Advice? Thanks!...ned.

I was in the same situation on a 66 factory AC truck. If I remember correctly, there are at least 2 sheet metal screws under the top vent that attach the diecast lid to the lower sheet metal tub. These screews are not accessible without taking out the entire heater unit. The good news is that if you don't reinstall the screws under the vent, you will be able to take out your heater core the next time without removing the entire heater.

[jonzcustomshop]

some good info in this thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=690735

here is the main part:
OK I gave the local auto parts store another try. This time I decided to look under an alternate year. I noticed that there was a heater core for a "fresh air" heater and another option. "Re-circulation" or something like that. Under details of the heater core by Murray P#94691 the dimension of the core matched up and the picture looked the same. So I ordered that one. Well I got the core and installed it. It fit like a glove. no shimming, no bending or anything.

Lessons learned include:

always verify the guy behind the counter, unless you deal with vendors from this forum. They are pretty damn good at what they do.

ask for help and/or research this forum. There is lot of info on here.

Now we have two known part numbers for the suburban "fresh air" heater core

Murray Part # 94691 (O'reilys)
and
pro-source Part # 91691

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by jbgroby

on Classic indus. IMHO, your paying extra for a name, unless they can show the part is made other than where LMC gets them from (possible but doubtful). I've bought over a thoughsand dollars of stuff from LMC and have not got a bum deal yet.

The more expensive aluminum heater core that classic industries sells is way better quality and fit than the copper one sold by some other vendors. I bought both and returned the cheaper one.

[Captainfab]

Does anyone know the correct resistance value for the heater fan speed resistor? I'm trying to figure out how to check them to determine whether they are good or bad.

[LostMy65]

What are some aftermarket options?

[Oscar73]

I've been following this thread, and between the early and late heaters, Thrifty, Deluxe and whatever, I'm thoroughly confused.

Not one setup here matches what I have on my 66 C20. I HAD the left hand box here, in my truck, with a leaking heater core. Had spare heater box, like the right hand one with a decent core. Turns out to be about two inches shorter than he LH heater core. So, switched boxes. Everything went well, but I can't figure out where the heater cable connects to. There's absolutely no flaps, doors or valves in either of these heater boxes, and I haven't seen any in a single photo in this thread, other than the external lever on the side of the heater box which is connected to some mystery thing..

Am I crazy, or is something missing here? Thanks for any clarifications...

[/QUOTE]

PS - and how do you cut down a plastic blower fan? Seems like you'd just create some kind of bloomin' onion thing when the fan started spinning, since the blades would only be supported on one end...

[tc64]

went through the same confusing mystery,decided the only thing that mystery arm does is control the amount of water flowing through the core thereby adjusting the temp level of the air being blown in.Since i will probably run the heater on max when i do,I've decided to forget about that lever completely.

[Oscar73]

Originally Posted by tc64

went through the same confusing mystery,decided the only thing that mystery arm does is control the amount of water flowing through the core thereby adjusting the temp level of the air being blown in.Since i will probably run the heater on max when i do,I've decided to forget about that lever completely.

But I have no levers...just heater core. No flaps. Is there a mystery water valve that a PO took off? The original heater box does have a bolt welded in where a stud goes through the firewall... so somebody's been in there... Heater cable hooks up to a big nothing...

Pictures?

[Captainfab]

There is no ranco valve (water valve) on the '64-'66 heaters from the factory.

The Thriftair and Deluxe heaters will appear the same in the engine compartment. The Thriftair will have a smaller heater core than the Deluxe heater. The Thriftair heater has a single push/pull/turn knob inside the cab. The Deluxe heater will have 3 levers with knobs inside the cab. As for levers and flaps, the Deluxe heater will have a air flow flap inside the box in the engine compartment. It will be up close to the firewall with the lever arm on the right side towards the inner fender. This lever can be seen in the above pic at the top right. This is where the cable from the 'heat' control on the dash connects.

[Oscar73]

Thanks for the info...now if I could only get these photos off my phone. Looks like I've got one of each, a Thrifty and a Deluxe. But both have zero flappage. Not one flap between 'em. No lever to attach flaps to, the heater cable just flops around under the dash, looking for work.

[LostMy65]

What makes the in cab (cheaper heater) less capable?

[jbgroby]

No defrost ductwork

[LostMy65]

I meant the 'Recirculation heater.

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

[B][I]


1963 Chevrolet

[61K10]

I have the heater lostMY65 listed above. I modded a new fan and motor from a 96 air cond camaro. the thing will blow you out of the cab on hi lol.

[LostMy65]

Cool. I just picked one up in the forum's parts section. My other concern was how good does it work at defrosting? - beings it's recycling inside air.

[LostMy65]

I found a great reply by Mark about the Recirculating Heater:

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Mark,

I would love to axe the under hood heater also. A couple questions for ya:
1.0 With the economy heater do you have problems with the windshield fogging over on rainy humid days?
2.0 Am I correct in assuming the economy heater doesn't provide any outside fresh air mixture into the heating mix?

Wonder why a guy couldn't cut into the cowl vent from inside the truck, thus pulling fresh air in without having the heater on the firewall?

You know me, always ready to cut something up!

.

Originally Posted by markeb01

Hi John, 1.0 - the recirculating heater isn't up to the standards of a modern fresh air heater, but it does heat the cab up well enough to be comfortable in sub freezing weather. Living in Idaho the lowest temp I experienced was about 17 below zero, but the coldest I generally drove in was closer zero - 10 degrees above. At those temperatures the heater needed to be on full defrost setting and high speed on the fan motor. 95% of the time it would keep the windshield completely clear, and when the center started to fog I just cracked the driver side vent window and that did the trick. Sounds unpleasant in those temps but wasn't bad with the cab warm (and wearing a watch cap). In temperatures closer to 30-40, medium fan and 50/50 blend between defrost/floor was enough.

In high humidity/heavy rain the heater has a harder time keeping the center completely clear, but again cracking the vent window and running the fan on high speed eliminates the fogging. Perhaps the 1960 fresh air heater I had never worked correctly, but it didn't provide any noticeable improvement in defrosting ability over the economy heater. My truck came stock with no heater, and a deluxe fresh air model was the first heater I installed. It chronically smelled like antifreeze in the cab, even though everything (core/seals/gaskets/hoses) in the system were new and there were no detectable leaks. The smell is why I got rid of the fresh air heater, and the econo heater has never had an odor problem - so lack of stink was more important to me than heater/defroster capacity, and I was driving 36 miles each way every day for 9 years.

2.0 - Correct there is no fresh air intake with the recirculating heater. If a person was creative enough with sheetmetal I suppose you could install a fresh air valve on the face of the firewall plenum inside the cab and route this into a recirculating heater with a little fab work. If it were on the bottom of the plenum it would probably leak water when raining. This could in turn connect to a completely different heater, although I'm not sure what would be suitable.

In my search for a heater that would actually function in a northwest winter, I tried:

1. Fresh air 1960 oem unit (smelled).
2. Old Air A/C-heater system (completely ineffective).
3. An electric van auxilliary heater (useless).
4. A Vintage Air street rod heater (inadequate heat and direction control).
5. A Flexalite Mojave heater (decent heat, no direction control).

Of the last 4, the only one that did any good at all was the Mojave heater mounted on the floor between the seats. It kept my feet warm and nothing else.

The econo heater doesn't provide performance of a modern heater/defroster, but it worked well enough to drive the truck everyday in the winter, and now that it's retired to hobby duty I'm glad to have it instead of the fresh air breadbox on the firewall. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

.

Originally Posted by markeb01

Back when I commuted every day I'd always change my 160 degree summer thermostat to a 190 version for the winter months. Having 30 degree warmer coolant made a big difference. Didn't think to mention that.

[dieseldude4bt]

If you want fresh air with the econo heater crack the vent on the passenger side it pulls air from that direction.
I second that it is enough for winter driving as I live in Colorado and have been daily driving mine sense 1982.

[Jferrante]

Originally Posted by Oscar73

PS - and how do you cut down a plastic blower fan? Seems like you'd just create some kind of bloomin' onion thing when the fan started spinning, since the blades would only be supported on one end...

Does anyone have an idea on this? I just bought the new plastic fan from LMC and it seems to be too big for the box...is shaving it down the answer?

[red450ih]

I recently purchased three new reproduction cables for my 1964 with Deluxe heater but the fit and quality is very bad.

Can anyone recommend a place to get high quality reproduction cables? I would also consider good working originals. A PM might be more appropriate.

Thanks!