HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...

[WEBBY1]

I'm running spindles and mmw control arms. looks like you might have to notch the control arm for steering shaft?

[Wingnut Way]

Originally Posted by WEBBY1

I'm running spindles and mmw control arms. looks like you might have to notch the control arm for steering shaft?

I’m all stock, going as cheap as possible. Yea probably I will do so after I slap cab back on and see exactly how much I need to knotch and where exactly

[WEBBY1]

I've been trying to stay cheap through the whole thing. and I have 7k into it

[jjzepplin]

One of a kind is "priceless"! In my neck of the woods it sure would be...

[crakarjax]

I went 1.5" and when I realized that I'd need to notch the control arm I ordered a no limit R&P kit. I don't like spending $1k on a single component but for the amount of work it would take to DIY a R&P I think it's worth it.

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

[Wingnut Way]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I went 1.5" and when I realized that I'd need to notch the control arm I ordered a no limit R&P kit. I don't like spending $1k on a single component but for the amount of work it would take to DIY a R&P I think it's worth it.

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

I’ll save my $1000 and just weld some notches in

[crakarjax]

Yeah I think if you're fine with the stock steering there's no need to go R&P -- in my case I was going to convert in the future anyway, and just didn't want to waste the effort getting the stock steering to work now only to upgrade it later.

[tinydb84]

Nvm

[SCOTI]

The X-member on my dually is notched 1.5" (89 Square body). The lower a-arms are PB 1" forward units but I originally had the modified OE lowers moved forward .750".

My set-up did require the small notch to the upper driver a-arm as mentioned. MMW uppers & later model OE uppers also had too large of an OD @ the bushing area & would not have cleared (I still have the MMW arms sitting in a box on the shelf three years later ).

When I'm air'd out, I can slip a slim piece of cardboard between the shaft/notch (like a spiral notebook cover).

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The X-member on my dually is notched 1.5" (89 Square body). The lower a-arms are PB 1" forward units but I originally had the modified OE lowers moved forward .750".

My set-up did require the small notch to the upper driver a-arm as mentioned. MMW uppers & later model OE uppers also had too large of an OD @ the bushing area & would not have cleared (I still have the MMW arms sitting in a box on the shelf three years later ).

When I'm air'd out, I can slip a slim piece of cardboard between the shaft/notch (like a spiral notebook cover).

Out of curiosity why did you ditch the factory lowers?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Out of curiosity why did you ditch the factory lowers?

When I cupped the arms, I allowed for ~1/2" of clearance on my mock-up bag @ 25psi. Installed, the weight of the BBC plus those heavy hubs expanded the bad more than I liked (my clearance was about the thickness of a yardstick). I felt once the suspension started moving around, the bag would likely make contact.

I opted for Porterbuilt arms as they would swap right in place, had the forward placement option, & already had a tab for a sway bar (I still had to figure that out for the modified factory lowers as the original mounting position was no longer an option).

[rudyyloverboiii]

I too tried this and failed. Now i have to make my own motor mounts for my 292

nevertheless, it is an awesome write up

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rudyyloverboiii

I too tried this and failed. Now i have to make my own motor mounts for my 292

nevertheless, it is an awesome write up

Failed how?

[rudyyloverboiii]

well it isnt a complete failure cus it looks cool and i made it work but im having a hard time leveling the engine and making motor mounts. So i went to put in a spare c20 cross member i had and its not the same. they are different

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rudyyloverboiii

well it isnt a complete failure cus it looks cool and i made it work but im having a hard time leveling the engine and making motor mounts. So i went to put in a spare c20 cross member i had and its not the same. they are different

The way the x-member in this thread was sectioned should not alter the MM tower dimensions. Makes me wonder how yours are not working? I've done 4 of these & all re-used the MM towers w/o issue. One even used aftermarket MM towers & they fit/worked w/no problem.

[rudyyloverboiii]

they bolt on just fine the problem is that i too have to section them as well to bolt on to the motor...

unless i make up the difference from the frame to the engine with some square tubing which i found out about yesterday

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The way the x-member in this thread was sectioned should not alter the MM tower dimensions. Makes me wonder how yours are not working? I've done 4 of these & all re-used the MM towers w/o issue. One even used aftermarket MM towers & they fit/worked w/no problem.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by rudyyloverboiii

they bolt on just fine the problem is that i too have to section them as well to bolt on to the motor...

unless i make up the difference from the frame to the engine with some square tubing which i found out about yesterday

I think you did it wrong, the surface where the engine mounts should not have moved at all relative to the frame.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I think you did it wrong, the surface where the engine mounts should not have moved at all relative to the frame.

Not so much 'wrong' since there's more than one method/version of x-member notching. But, if he did it the way this "How To" thread describes, the MM towers should not require mods unless an x-member from a different year model was used.

[rickoner]

I think the issue is when you raise the steering up to keep the stock geometry. That's the problem I ran into with mine. My crossmember was sectioned 2" and raised the steering the same. I had to move the engine up to clear the drag link. When I had the 292 in it, I spaced the mounts up about 1.750" and chopped some of the oil pan. I've now switched to an LS and had issues with the crank pulley hitting the drag link. I have the mounts spaced 1.5" and used dirty dingo sliders on square body clamshells. It took some moving around but I think I have the engine in a spot that they can coexist peacefully.

[SCOTI]

I didn't move the steering. I also limited things to 1.5" to avoid the domino effect. These trucks had geometry issues w/o modification. I didn't notice steering related issues until my Dually. But, that's my fault as I was super agressive on Caster (7-ish).

[MQUnlimited]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

Its been done.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

Originally Posted by MQUnlimited

Its been done.

Post that info up if possible?

I've seen how they did their initial set-up for their R&P kit (notching the x-member @ the rail area only). I didn't think sectioning an x-member as described within this thread would work w/the NL R&P kit.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Post that info up if possible?

I've seen how they did their initial set-up for their R&P kit (notching the x-member @ the rail area only). I didn't think sectioning an x-member as described within this thread would work w/the NL R&P kit.

I got my no limit kit and it looks like everything will clear with some modifications to the mounting bracket and steering linkage location, and probably frame notches for the R&P links. Side note, not super happy with the quality of this kit -- sloppy grinding on the rack, hoses installed crooked, plastic crossover line instead of metal... probably more to notice upon install.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I got my no limit kit and it looks like everything will clear with some modifications to the mounting bracket and steering linkage location, and probably frame notches for the R&P links. Side note, not super happy with the quality of this kit -- sloppy grinding on the rack, hoses installed crooked, plastic crossover line instead of metal... probably more to notice upon install.

Ahh..... It could work w/further modifications.

[68c30bagged]

what happened to the pics they dont show up