Great deal on new crate engine

[67ChevyRedneck]

Did you use any sealant? I figured once it got wet, the specialized cardboard would just kinda seal itself?

I actually ordered all of the edelbrock specific stuff for it, gaskets, glue stuff, bolts. The instructions kept saying "don't use this, or this, or this," so I just spent the $ and bought all of their crap.

[zellway]

Knocked some holes with a screw driver and six tubes of blue RTV.

[zellway]

Just kidding. I took a little time and painted one up nice for my Suburban

[67ChevyRedneck]

What the crap? That is NOT cool man I'll be lucky to get mine on an engine stand this weekend! I did burn up my credit card buying all the necessary parts and what not, including a new AAW wire 67/68 classic update harness!

[zellway]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

What the crap? That is NOT cool man I'll be lucky to get mine on an engine stand this weekend! I did burn up my credit card buying all the necessary parts and what not, including a new AAW wire 67/68 classic update harness!

My Dad and I had a crazy week. We installed both of them. I have been stocking up on parts waiting for the time. When we found this deal we jumped at them. My Dad's truck was in a out in a day. Not much sleep and a bit more beer then I was thinking but it got done.

[zellway]

Just a quick swap

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

What the crap? That is NOT cool man I'll be lucky to get mine on an engine stand this weekend! I did burn up my credit card buying all the necessary parts and what not, including a new AAW wire 67/68 classic update harness!

Looks like you are doing everything I want to haha. Did you order the complete wiring kit? Who did you buy from?

[67ChevyRedneck]

http://www.americanautowire.com/prod...d-restoration/

The 69-72 kits are cheaper. Just type the product number into fleabay and you should get quite a few to choose from, all were the same price when I looked... about $500 for the 67/68 and $470 for the 69/72 kit.

67/68: 510333

69/72: 510089

I've owned my truck for 17 years. It's needed a motor for at least the last 2 and a new wiring harness since I bought it I've been putting away for this for quite some time, the motor deal just opened the flood gates!

[jae]

just talked my brother into buying one for his '73, as opposed to rebuilding the overheated 15 year old crate engine from my '71. (I really need to get my 5.3 finished so my truck is moving on its own again )

thanks for the heads-up.

[yote1234]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Just thought I'd pass this along.

When I was looking at possibly buying a new motor for my truck I was a little disappointed, but not surprised, that they had gone up $3-400 in price... since I last looked in 2008. So I saved Jegs listing on ebay, and just happened to look last night, and it was $1,207.99 with free shipping. That's the lowest price they've had in a long time (if you look at the sold history, they do routinely lower the price) and the best price I've seen from other sellers. Free shipping too.

So now I've got the new motivation for the C10.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400444180233...84.m1423.l2649

Three Cheers For 67ChevyRedneck!!!! Hip,Hip Hoooray!!! thx again,

[1911a1]

Thanks for the heads up!
My arrived yesterday.
I may upgrade the entire top of the engine though before installation. I have a post in the engine area on the forum asking a few questions.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Sale's over, hope everyone that wanted one got one. Looks like they sold 87 at that price. Not bad, 87 engines in 11 days.

[lawest]

Mine showed up today! Had to leave work and run home to meet him, so I haven't even opened up the crate yet.

[70c10stepside]

About the power thing early on. I like my power because it barely works to get going and will always have the passing power.. Its like 425hp. And it doesn't really have to work at all, so mpg actually is better for me in this then my truck with the stock motor and higher gears.. Mine just breathes really well and sounds like a dirt car lol

[LockDoc]

-
Mines pretty much ready to install. I have to put the oil filter on it and finish up the balancer (I don't have it all the way on yet) and a couple of other little things... TH400 tranny...

LockDoc

[gferris5]

I run one of these and it's great! It's been running now for 3 or 4 years, starts, runs smooth never overheats, pretty bombproof. I went from running an edelbrock 750, which was too rich, to a 1406 600cfm and it made a big difference--much better.


When I get some more money, I'm going to give it the Car Craft Saturday Night Slayer treatment:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...nch_350_build/

[67ChevyRedneck]

Nice!

[72bowtiestepper]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
Mines pretty much ready to install. I have to put the oil filter on it and finish up the balancer (I don't have it all the way on yet) and a couple of other little things... TH400 tranny...

LockDoc

I see you are going to run the "block hugger" style headers....I read in another thread here that you will have to use the 6cyl. position motor mount stands for clearance of the crossmember with that style header. It will position the engine a little farther back in the frame. A HEI distrib. will fit, but will be very tight to the firewall. Let me know how this works out for you...I plan on using these headers on my build also.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 72bowtiestepper

I see you are going to run the "block hugger" style headers....I read in another thread here that you will have to use the 6cyl. position motor mount stands for clearance of the crossmember with that style header. It will position the engine a little farther back in the frame. A HEI distrib. will fit, but will be very tight to the firewall. Let me know how this works out for you...I plan on using these headers on my build also.

Actually I am not going to use those when I install it in the '71. I am going to use stock rams horn manifolds, but I don't have them blasted and painted yet. I just wanted something on there to cover up the ports. I tried using the block huggers on the Suburban when I put the crate engine in it and ran into the problem you describe. I finally figured out that I could put the V-8 mounts in the rear holes and they would work, but I already had the engine all bolted in, the drive shaft in and trans linkage hooked up so I didn't want to move it. I think I would use the HEI distributor with the divorced coil which would give you plenty of room at the firewall.

LockDoc

[1911a1]

I need a little help with my new crate engine. What size balancer do I need to use.
I believe, but am not postitive the brackets for the PS, air and alternator are factory if that matters.
Thanks,
Clay

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1911a1

I need a little help with my new crate engine. What size balancer do I need to use.
I believe, but am not postitive the brackets for the PS, air and alternator are factory if that matters.
Thanks,
Clay

I always use the 8". I think they run a little smoother with them than the 6 3/4". They should be the same thickness. Some of the earlier 6 3/4" ones were thinner.

LockDoc

[72bowtiestepper]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I always use the 8". I think they run a little smoother with them than the 6 3/4". They should be the same thickness. Some of the earlier 6 3/4" ones were thinner.

LockDoc

I used the 8" dia. one also......the crate motor comes with 2 dif. timing tabs.One is used with the 8"...the other is for the 6 3/4" balancer.

[Youey]

Well my Christmas wish came true got one of these suckers from the best wife! Only problem I have is getting from my shop to the house so it can be dropped in. So excited !

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by 72bowtiestepper

I used the 8" dia. one also......the crate motor comes with 2 dif. timing tabs.One is used with the 8"...the other is for the 6 3/4" balancer.

So is that the difference with the noon and 2 o'clock positions? 12 o clock is for 8" and 2 o'clock is for 6-3/4? Never knew why there was two different positions.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

So is that the difference with the noon and 2 o'clock positions? 12 o clock is for 8" and 2 o'clock is for 6-3/4? Never knew why there was two different positions.

I don't think that is correct. I think both tabs that come with the crate are for the 2 o'clock position. One is just for the 8" and one is for the 6 3/4" damper.

Here is a short tutorial on the dampers...

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._TDC_lines_SBC

LockDoc