'65 SWB Patina Build

[Ratpin]

Originally Posted by w00dst0ck

Spent a few hours cutting the driver door bottom off to put in a patch panel. Fitment was absolute ****, and the replacement lines didn't even match the door.

Pretty frustrating. I'm going to make it work, somehow...

Where did you get your patch panels from?

[w00dst0ck]

I've bought from various sites, top banana, LMC (mostly), and brothers. Seems to all be the same ****.

The only panels that have even come close to fitting correctly are the outer rockers.

I put the driver door back on today after finishing the lower patch and everything looks good. Lines up well with the outer rocker. Inner rocker isn't tall enough to meet the bottom of the outer rocker, so I will have to add a strip to the bottom from the spare inner rockers I have. Getting close to having the driver side done. Passenger side is worse, but the door is fine.

Scrapped my first valve box and built this one to accommodate 4 valves with a gauge in the middle. Turned out pretty good for piecing it together from scrap 16gauge lol. It's hard to tell in the picture, but it's flat in the center and each side angles towards the dash, slightly angling the valves inward.

[w00dst0ck]

Finally got motivated to finish the driver side tonight. Turned out well. Need to grind a few welds and them seam seal.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by w00dst0ck

I was referring to my air lines. I've read too many horror stories of DOT PTC line blowing up. Plus I'm running a York 210 which will put out a lot of heat.

I have a york 210 and I used a 24" stainless leader hose to a 1/2" check valve to 1/2" DOT plastic line. I dont expect any problems.

Copper is good too but be sure to have a vibration/movement joint in there, copper work hardens in high vibration environments. My buddy ran all copper on his truck air system and it kept breaking at one bend after about 4 months.

[w00dst0ck]

It seems about even on both sides of the DOT vs hard line argument.

I'm a helicopter mechanic/crew chief by trade (two extremely different worlds when it comes to mechanics), I'm quite familiar with vibration fatigue, however vehicle vibration is minor at best. That being said I'm going to put a few loops in the line to be safe.

Planning on running a stainless line to the tank in the back, then hard line everywhere else.

[joedoh]

nice, sounds like you have it handled, that stainless will isolate the area of most vibration (the engine to body transition).

I am a master degreed engineer (worked in aerospace design, so I get your comments on different worlds) and have had tens of bagged trucks and cars over 20 odd years, most with electric compressors and the last 4 with EDCs, the only problem I have ever had with DOT line even in texas heat wave heat was when a clamp came loose and rubbed the tire. In fact phil (my copper buddy) had more problems in 8 months with copper than I had in 20 years with DOT plastic. just a data point, synflex is pretty durable.

[w00dst0ck]

since the truck is already plumbed mostly in DOT, I might run it all the way up to the cab, then everything under the dash in copper.

I'm changing from 3/8 to 1/4 since I'm running Dloe's valves.

[w00dst0ck]

Seems like hydraulic hose is the best of both worlds.

[joedoh]

I cant even imagine plumbing/connecting hardlines to the back inside top of the dash. you have my respect! I see lots of fiddling and god-holding-his-tounge-right in your future, but as a helicopter mechanic you probably call that "tuesday".

I on the other hand was loudly crying to my wife earlier tonight that there wasnt an easy way to connect dual needle gauges to the valve set (using little larrys) BEFORE clamping them into their dash holes, it has to be done upside down and dimly.

[w00dst0ck]

I'm not sure if the problem is in the outer rocker or if my door skin didn't get perfectly lined back up when we put in the ****ty patch panel.

Regarless, my outer rocker lines up good, but doesn't come out enough to meet the bottom of the door.

Looks like I'm going to have to slice it and pull it out a 1/8 or so to meet the bottom of the door.

[Ryguy442]

Yup I had to do the same thing on a 67 for my buddy, gotta love after market patches!!

Ryan

[w00dst0ck]

Started on the passenger side this morning.

[w00dst0ck]

Picked up a stupid clean '70 last night.

[TJ's Chevy]

I'm jealous of that 70! lol

[White knuckle Garage]

were did you get ur motor mounts for ur thrid gen from and are they a complete bolt in

[Ryguy442]

What's the plans on the 70?

Ryan

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by White knuckle Garage

were did you get ur motor mounts for ur thrid gen from and are they a complete bolt in

For the 5.3?

I'm running ECE mounts. You have to drill 2 holes on each side of the crossmember, and you have to remove around 1/8 of the lip of the framerail on each side.

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by Ryguy442

What's the plans on the 70?

Ryan

It's for sale. Fixing a few things, 3/5 drop on TBSS wheels and then it will be for sale.

[w00dst0ck]

Finished the passenger side in a few hours. Much easier the second time around.

Also pic of civic door seals.

[w00dst0ck]

[w00dst0ck]

Injected fuel system I built using the stock tank. Factory sending unit still mounts in the original location next to it. Just waiting on a new float.

Also finally installed the PSI harness. Very impressed so far. I did have the #1 injector hot wire pull out of the connector, but it might have been my fault. EV6 connectors suck ass.

[w00dst0ck]

Haven't touched this thing in forever. Between waiting on the porterbuilt stuff and other projects, it's sat in the corner of the shop for months untouched.

Finally moved it out of the corner, installed the C notch, and set the bed back on to start raising the floor. Getting close!

Not as low as I would have liked, but it looks really good.





4L80E shifter install

[rwade]

Can you tell me if you have any spacers on your wheels on the rear? I've got the same set I'm planning on using on my 61 SWB. How close is the outside of your tire to your bedside? Yours is logo awesome by the way. You planning on using poverty hubcaps?

Thanks, Wade

[rwade]

That's looking awesome (lol!).

Wade

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by rwade

Can you tell me if you have any spacers on your wheels on the rear? I've got the same set I'm planning on using on my 61 SWB. How close is the outside of your tire to your bedside? Yours is logo awesome by the way. You planning on using poverty hubcaps?

Thanks, Wade

No spacers. Put them on my buddies CNC and opened up the centers. Now that I have disc brakes up front they don't sit on the hubs, but I have several sets of these wheels so I plan on swapping the fronts with another set.

No, I don't like how far the poverty hubcaps stick out. I tried to fit some early chevy caps I have but they are too small and where the clips need to be mounted doesn't work.

Probably not going to run anything, I like the look with no caps.

They fit perfect with no spacers, but you won't be able to run your wheel wells in the rear. I ran them without for a while, but now that I'm raising my bed floor a few inches, I'm going to widen mine and solve the issue.

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