64' K10 Project Long Bed

[aotte1]

Making cab lift bar out of tube to use with engine hoist for removing cab. It is a tube that will lift cab in the door opening. Today made a "U" shaped bar out of flat bar ( heated it red hot, viced it, and hammer it into a "U"). It will be welded to the tube that lifts the cab, and attached/bolted to the end of engine hoist. Not sure yet what side of tube it will be welded to, thinking the wide side???? Photos below. The first photo shows the "U" shaped bar attached to the end engine hoist. The last photo shows angle iron - 3/4" , that I am thinking of welding/bolting on ends of bar to help hold cab in-place at the door jam. I got the idea for this from other threads - thanks for sharing your work.

Les

[aotte1]

Finished welding the cab lift bar and lifted the cab off the frame today. Positioned the bar in the center of the door opening and it lifted the cab off pretty much in balance using this bar.

Finished the bar by adding angle iron to catch the door pinch weld to stabilize/hold cab from moving on bar. It seemed very stable removing the cab from the frame. To get the angle iron position on bar, placed first one on bar positioned on door pinch weld and tacked, next positioned the other in door pinch weld and tacked. Removed bar from cab to finish welding.

The angle iron 3/4 inch was welded to the tube at a 45 degree, to catch the door pinch weld. The length is just into the turn of pinch weld, as on this truck it seem much stronger and placed the load on better supported part of cab.

Will provide measurements.

Notes: 1).Cab stand front and back uprights need to be 3"s taller for the rear of the cab. 2). Make lower braces on cab stand high enough for engine crane to slide under them. ( I did not on one side)

[aotte1]

More photos of cab removal and setting on cab stand.

[aotte1]

Did check the frame and vehicle ID number on the drivers side frame rail top. Same as, the one on the front of frame. Also the frame part number is on the side of frame in same area? You can see it a little forward of ID number. The number that could be part number is 3820303, also, their were four other sets of numbers along with this number.

[RANDY COX]

Looking good I like the cab lifter...

[aotte1]

Randy,

Thanks for the complement, hope not too much longer and it is all apart. Next day or so will be welding up holes in the cab, there are quite a few to be fixed. Will need another tank of argon to get them all sewed up.

Will get the measurement on the cab lifter and post.

Les

[aotte1]

Measurements On Cab Lift Bar and Cab Stand

The cab lift bar is 2" X 4" tube 66"s long, a little extra strong, material I had. The 3/4" angle iron on the ends are 18"s long and welded to the tube ( with tube centered in door opening - this lifted cab level). They are spaced 57 1/2"s apart centered on the tube at the engine hoist lift point. These are approximate dimensions for this cab, kind of a material list and how it was done.

Cab stand frame dimensions: the stands/towers heights to match cab, 24 1/2" for front and 27 1/2" for rear. ( I did my rear stands at 24 1/2" and added a 3" block of wood). The bolt spacing in front is 40 1/2" wide and 42" wide in rear ( the rear bolts are 1/2 by 5 1/2" long ). The bolt spacing front to back is 41 1/2". Used 4"x6" plates on top of the stands to move the bolt holes away from stands. The above dimensions are for location of bolt holes. The stands are about 2 inches away from bolt holes. The outside dimensions of stands are 40" wide and 48" long, and placement of top plates meets the bolt location need.

[61K10]

Looking good! I hope you get your steel free or cheap to build all your fixtures.

[aotte1]

61K10,

Thanks for the complement, I built it strong for transport of the cab to get cleaned, primed, and to paint shop. Do have source for some older steel at wholesale prices.

Les

[aotte1]

Follow-up on, Borgeson collapsible steering shaft and two universal joints

Some photos of the conversion completed. By using double universal joints, the steering column can be located correctly in the firewall. The new 4x4 steering gear box center line is further away from the frame, however, the universals correct for this. Also really like eliminating rag joint as it makes the steering tighter

[aotte1]

Adding Power Steering Adapter Plate to 1964 K10

This is a follow-up to earlier posts on adding Captain Fab's adapter plate to an original 1964 K10, this post provides more detailed information/photos on its location on the frame. This plate location looks to retain the original 1983 K10 steering geometry that the parts came from to complete this conversion. Earlier post detail parts used along with process for locating adapter plate based on duplicating '83 steering geometry. However, it has not been road tested yet.

[aotte1]

A few more photos, that show location, now that taking it apart to go have it all cleaned soon. The next set of photos shows measurements from center of bolt hole for attaching steering gear box.
Posting lots of photos hoping some will help show where it is located on frame. If you need more infor or photos let me know.
The adapter plate is only tach welded for now, will finish welding once frame is disassembled.

Note: In the first and second photo you will see on the bottom of the frame, front sway bar brackets from the 1983 K10, that are being added along with power steering. The sway bar brackets will be bolted to the frame as it is disassembled, to give access for drilling bolt holes.

Note: This steering gear box is 3 1/4 turns lock to lock, it should be the same from '83 to '78, maybe more years. Those are the only two year boxes I have tested.

[aotte1]

Photos of the back two steering box bolt location from the bracket that hold the spring rubber stop. Sure it is obvious that first photo shows overview of measurement and second photo shows close-up of bolt hole centerline.

[aotte1]

These photos show lower and upper front bolt hole and end of plate measurements. Last photo show reference to back of plate and frame hole.

[aotte1]

Cab tunnels fitted/installed, the front tunnel cover installed with 5/16, .5" long SS bolts. Will weld square nuts to under side floor pan for attaching bolts. The original front was removed at some time in its past. The replacement one was removed from donor by drilling out the spot welds. Because it was removed decided to bolt in for future easy access to tunnel area. The first photo shows the spot welds drilled out from donor floor pan, their were about 35 welds. Second photo shows the spot weld removal tool used, used about four bits to drill out welds, they brake easily.
The third and forth photos shows the tunnels installed. The spot weld holes in the front tunnel cover will be filled with the center disk material drilled out. Will tac weld them in. It all fit very well.

[_mg]

Details that I can use when I EVENTUALLY get to doing mine. Thanks!

BTW, are the welds from using your new welding unit?

[aotte1]

_mg,

Thanks for the complements, hope it helps you too. Yes, used the new TIG welder, and tac welded CatainFab's adapter plate with it. Doing all my welding with it.

Did you get your new wheels? The '66 wheels I got, do drag on the '78 Dana 44 front axle, not sure if a little off the caliper would be enough for clearance.

Les

[_mg]

I have not picked up the wheels yet, planning to get them soon. Reading other threads such as http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=524003, sounds like we cannot use the drum wheels due to their shape.

[aotte1]

mg,

I have not look close at where on the 66 wheels they touch. Have to spray the back of wheels with a little paint and tighten down to where wheel can still be turned and see where it rubs off to locate interference.

On other wheels for '86 Blazers trimmed the calipers and they worked. Just not sure how much and where calipers need to be trimmed. ??? Aftermarket calipers may be smaller?

Les

[Captainfab]

Thanks Les for posting all the detailed pics of the power steering box installation

[aotte1]

John,

I am happy to post the photos of your power steering adapter plate, installed on a K10. It is a great help in adding power steering and a quality part, including the SAE washer-thanks too.

Les

[aotte1]

Removing Cab Undercoating

The undercoating on lower firewall and cab floor is really hard. Was not sure to remove or leave as it has worked to protect the truck for over 50 years. Decided to remove as truck is now in humid climate, and not sure if moisture may get under it, along with driving.

Used three step process to remove, 1). scraped dry to remove looser undercoat. Got a lot off in 2 hrs: 2). Next sprayed mineral spirits on and scraped for three hours, got some more off that softened up: 3). Still some really hard stuff left, sprayed/brushed paint stripper on that said it takes undercoat off "Captain Lee's". Worked 3 more hours and removed most. Finished up this step by cleaning with rag soaked in the mineral spirits. A few difficult to reach spot still have the extra hard stuff left. Maybe another hour or two to completely remove all the undercoating.

Still have front fenders yet to do.

Les

[aotte1]

Removed the engine, trans, and transfer case. Looks like the brake lines were changed some over the years, some lines look original other different. However, some parts look original on the frame. Photos below show frame and parts with all its dirt from the years. Will post more frame/parts photos soon. This truck was built in the St Louis plant.

Note: The clips on the top frame rail are galvanized, with plastic coating on the part that attaches/clips to the frame . You can see the plastic pealing off in third photos, beside it. The close-up frame rail photos are of the drivers/left side.

Have not washed frame yet so as to keep it original for inspection of the as built condition, still visible. The frame has original paint on a lot of it, what you see is dirt on top of it.

Most of the controls are their, missing a few springs, not sure what some of the frame brackets are for-need to research. Speedometer cable is broken. Transfer case input and out put shaft feel really tight and smooth, will have to see how fluid looks. It and transmission all shifted easy before removal.

[aotte1]

More left side frame photos.

Note: On the brake lines, this truck did have an aftermarket hydraulic emergency brake set-up, that was operated by switch/lever on bottom of dash.

[aotte1]

More right side frame photos. The rear springs do have a small lift added, and an additional leaf looks like it was added to the rear spring packs.