1958 SWB C4 Fleetside - NZ Build

[QBRacing]

Curt
They are 400s front and rear. Being as I have no engine up front its hard to tell but I think the rear is too still and the only thing missing from that is the deck now.... May drop the rear to 300s and shorten the spring while Im at it..

......

As far as updates go I have the new order in and nothing is missing. It has been confirmed that the front swaybar kit is lost or stolen from for freight forwarders so Im going to have to order a new one from don. He is aware but it is still another cost i didn't need.

Now that I have all the brke hoses and rear cables Im going to try and sort the brakes to at least have that system complete. I am running factory c5 front hoses and will run separate hard lines to the master, and factory c4 rear hoses which Im mating near the upper shock mount. Ill run a split line back to the master. seems pretty simple in theory but time will tell.

Q

[QBRacing]

So I got busy today.
Made up some brackets that will allow me to mount the rear flexi brake hoses to the upper shock mounts. no pics of that yet but basically a L bracket with a couple of holes.

I also went and did something silly. I bought what is called a VT Commodore over here. Basically I bought it for one thing... the engine, trans, loom, ecu radiator etc etc.

Here is the beginning of an LS1 buildup ..... Im contemplating a couple of small turbos off a skyline or similar (popular as over here) and with 2 ill be good for 550-600hp but only time will tell I suppose.

Q

[Advanced Design]

Not silly at all...a great way to get what is needed for an LS swap.

[QBRacing]

Thats the donor vehicle gone ..... cant see this being legal with brakes and steering though....

and here is ANOTHER VIDEO

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by QBRacing

Thats the donor vehicle gone ..... cant see this being legal with brakes and steering though....

and here is ANOTHER VIDEO

The power to weight ratio is off the charts, it probably won’t hook up very well with those little tires though...

[QBRacing]

so todays update saw me fit the rear brackets for the rear brake lines. No I can bend the crap out of the old ones and have a brake shop make me up some pretty hard lines.

then once the rear end was on the ground I thought I might as well try sizing the engine in the hole.... that didnt last long.

While I had plenty of room to the fire wall if I went back the front sump hit the cross member. I was kind of expecting this to happen but it was good to know.

I wasnt to sure about the P/Steer hard lines either. I think the middle one may get in the way but after some c4 corvette/LS1 research they dont seem to change it so i shouldnt either. guess time will tell.

the c4 ls1 brigade seem to like using the c5 batwing sump so ill probably try find one of them, I think it was the ls3 base worked as well or if all else fails I just get the holley cast item.

[QBRacing]

Video of me test fitting the LS1

So i dropped the trans off to allow me more wriggle room in the engine bay.

Next I dropped the sump off and found some dimensions for stock LS sumps and found a few common ones.... then I made myself a template from some chipboard.

I am trying to get the engine back as far as possible. As the video shows im sitting on the fire wall so some massaging may be required. I could lift the engine and pull it forwards a bit but that may cause the trans to rub the tunnel....

I also want to run the EFI super victor intake with 4150 throttle and massive round filter to make it look olskool. (p.s the pics not mine).

To get where I want I'm leaning towards a 90 degree bend on the P/Steer pipe to allow more clearance. Failing that maybe a small cut in the steering bracket to lower the front forward ever so slightly then wed it back up.

Hopefully that makes sence (if not its in the vid)

[Nut Case]

NZ


You can remove what appears to be rivets, by unscrewing them, then clock the power steering inlet and outlet 90 degrees forward. Reapply the screws back where they go and message the lines to join back up.

It has been done several time on this forum, Sorry I'm pressed for time I'll get back to you with a thread that has done this, I think it might be FarmerSid in Canada on his AD.

Nut Case

[QBRacing]

thanks Nutcase.

I've done some researching since posting that and found this page on trifivechevys.

I've already removed the pipes and the 2x pins but the passenger side wont budge. this is a freshly rebuilt rack with 0 km on it so I'm expecting it's super tight.

I've doused it in WD40 and will leave it to soak over night.

ideally ild like the outlets to face down so it would be 180 degrees out then i dont need to drill anyholes. guess we will see on Monday as I'm away tomorrow.

[QBRacing]

bit of an update.

So I ended up pulling the rack out as i just couldn't clock the rack and I didn't want to damage it. I ended up taking it down to the place that rebuilt my Nova rack and asked him to look at it (rather than drive over an hour to the place that rebuilt it back in March).

Well he couldn't get it to budge either so he pulled it down and was like, are you sure this was rebuilt? The main input shaft was worn to buggery from the four Teflon rings... and i haven't even used it. He was amazed it held pressure when tested so I sent it to the guy that rebuilt it.

After checking the build notes he told me that they said "advised client t resleeve but opted not to....." What the **** ..... what did you rebuild then......

Long and he short of it he is now sending it back to the local guy for me and is washing his hands of it..... wont be using him again anytime soon and have let the local hotrod club know as well... rat bastard.



On the upside I ordered a genuine (used) f-body sump with baffle, gasket, oil tube etc off ebay (cheap) and splurged out on the HPTuners kit so I suppose I better get into the loom (which I have printed from LT1swap.com

Q

[QBRacing]

Here is a pic of the main housing showing the old damage. in the end I decided just to bite the bullet and have it sleeved. way I figure it a stainless sleeve has to be better than alloy and I should never need to do it again.

[Nut Case]

Dude

What a load of horse hocky. What a lack of character, no honor.

Build is looking great, keep on keepin on

NC

[QBRacing]

So I got my clocked C4 Corvette steering column back today. Fitted up first time around and should do a treat. No pics yet but I made this quick Video

I have also started on the wiring harness conversion and have ordered the HPTuners kit which should arrive towards the middle or end of November. (by then the bathroom reno should be well complete and I can get back into it.)

Will try and get some pics soon (time allowing)

Q

[QBRacing]

ok... I've been slack the last 5 weeks due to the reno running over budget and time but it's almost done so back into it.

my latest shipment arrived from the states today, which included a complete 2001 F body Camaro sump, the HP Tuners kit and a tshirt.

I also bought 7 metres (sorry 21ft) of 3/16 pipe and fittings or the rear brake lines. The wiring harness conversion is well underway and I am in 2 minds as to the quality... the cables are nicely sheathed and of a decent size but the connections seem cheap and don't clip together very well. Also I've had a few where the cable is exposed near the connector. over all I guess you get what you pay for and it appears to have lots of extra bits and connections.

I also think that I might have a late 57 cab on my 58 chassis. The bolt holes for the hood hinges on 55-57 are 3/8" and quite narrow while I believe the 58-59 bolts are 5/16 and wider apart. When I bolted up my fuse plate I needed the larger bolts and used the narrow holes. My chassis vin matches my body tag which matches the pink slip so.... ideas

here's some pics

[QBRacing]

Ad for those that cant be bothered reading here is a Short Video of the above (less the hood mounts which I will do next time.

[QBRacing]

So in the last few days I have got in and finished the hard wires for both the front and rear brakes. I still need to get some clips to secure the lines but thats a small issue really.

Ive also ran the wiring into the cab and connected up the 3rd lamp and dome light.

And of course Here is a video...

[QBRacing]

Probably the last update for 2018 - If you cant be bothered reading below the video is Located HERE.

Basically I made some L brackets that I bolted to a couple of factory holes in the chassis rail. Then I located some 50x30 RHS which I slotted in between and then I mounted a flat plate for the gearbox mount. I may yet need to put a piece of strengthening plate vertical to the mount section just t strengthen it (Ill see once I get under it properly)

Ive also started the engine mounts. I have made some plates for the engine and have bought some V8 Landrover Discovery or Defender engine mounts. They will b easier to fab something up to than a clam shell style. They are also smaller than the VT Commodore mounts I have which will give me more clearance around the steering column.

Ive also found some brake and fuel line retainers cheap at the local pick a part. cost about $20 for 10 of them and all I need to do is mount them now.

[Jason 56]

Truck looks great. You may want to look into lowering your rack. You want your inner tie rods parallel to your a-arms to prevent bump steer. This will also give you some needed clearance. I appreciate the quick shipping a lot more after reading your thread!

[QBRacing]

Jason
I was worried about that s well but there is no weight on the front end at present. I am about to mount the engine and trans etc etc which will drop the front end a bit I hope and therefor correct the arm angle ... time will tell.

Q

[QBRacing]

First update for 2019

Now that the bathroom is finished its time to move forwards with the 58 Fleetside.

Over the last couple of days I have made some serious inroads into wiring both the ecu and the truck itself. To anyone who's scared about doing it, don't be, take your time, mark off a circuit at a time and blamo you can get it done in no time. In my case I still need a steering column (i want an 87 Elco one) but are having on luck in LA so are just shorting out the wires to test which is somewhat annoying.

Anyways, her is a YouTube Video Link of the latest progress.

Q

[QBRacing]

Been slack again but a least the wife is happy with the completed bathroom and 90% completed ensuite.

Received another box of goodies from Summit during the week. Mainly fuel connectors, a filter/regulator (wix33737) and an ignition barrel.

Started on the fuel line today however struck one issue (refer video and image 2). Filter/Regulator mounted fine however when I ran the line to the tank the 1/4NPT to 6AN fitting cant screw in. Basically the connector is too close to the top hat and you cant screw it in..... Ive sent an email to Tanks Inc to advise however I don't expect they will do much other than modify slightly for the future.... I guess I will need a 1/4NPT extension to move the 6AN fitting away from he tophat.

Youtube Video Link

Have completed some more wiring, the OBDI is connected and he ECU has backup power. I am going to use a switched circuit (CB) as the efi circuit which will power both the ecu and the feeds for the injectors.

Ive also decided to run a ful pump relay under the dash near the ECU with the ECU triggering the relay and the main feed from the fuse going to pump.

Hope that makes sence.

Q

[QBRacing]

So found some better fittings today for the fuel tank. Ended up with a 1/4 NPT to 6an then 6an to hose.... wont have a need for the vibrant ones but also not worth sending back due to freight. oh well.

Started looking into the front engine mount and decided I will just get the lower plate remade but with a long wing down to the flat out xmember. while I was in there I tried to fit the factory ac but the bolt for the pipe fittings hits the xmember so I will probably need an aftermarket ac unit.

guess I also made my decision on engine setup....

q

[56VETTETRUCK]

QB,
Could you post some pics or vid of your ebrake cables and how you routed them. Thanks!

[QBRacing]

56vettetruck.

I havent completed that yet. two posts ago there is a pic of the rear with no fleetside fitted. if you look closely next to the summit box you can see the cable from the park brake setup. it comes off the caliper up through the rear arms, through a hole in the bracket don supplied and stops there (atm).

I plan on running from their forwards once I decide on what parkbrake setup I am going to use. I've heard the 71 foot brake fits up super easy but I'm still leaning towards the old pull and twist from a van or simple yank the handbrake by hand from beside the seat....

not much help I know but one day....

[QBRacing]

in the mean time I have just ordered the dakota VHX-55C-PU-K-B (Think that's right) for the dash and the vintage air kit for the 58. I also snuck in an edelbrock super victor and valvebody/coilpack covers, 4150 throttle body, fuel rails, trunion kit, cam shaft, water pump, steam kit, gasket kits, electric wiper and single electric window kit (think that's everything).... there was 7 boxes ex summit anyways (including 2 for the boys bias ply white walls)

also bought a pair of 862 truck heads off Ebay which I've had sent off to TEA for porting and valve job. way cheaper than a set of 799/243 heads and will give me higher compression again over my 853s with similar flow at .600 lift.

now the hard part... wait 4 weeks while the wife stresses at the credit card bill....