67 Camaro Build

[KevinK7]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Hey KevinK7 hope you enjoy the build, gotta say I’m liking your avatar!

Huge Camaro fan, we do have some common interests
That avatar is of my '67 Pace Car (now in the Heritage Museum in Michigan, I sold it back to Chevrolet)

I am almost done building a 'twin' ; )
https://imageevent.com/hvclassics/au...aro/67pacetwin


As for the Big BLock, here's a '68 I did... https://imageevent.com/hvclassics/au...0&m=24&w=0&p=0




Anyway, ...BACK to your Camaro, ...that is going to be one COOL car

[7dee2]

I think you're right on common interests, wow very nice work Kevin most impressive builds! I can really appreciate a Concours-style restoration. We spent almost a decade enjoying and judging this 66 Corvette. Here it is at a 2005 NCRS National Meet in Park City, Utah where the car did earn a Top Flight award.

Then later that same year when we dropped it off at its new owner’s place. Always preferred a Hurst shifter and mag wheels over the steelies but for originality judging, it had to have a correct shifter and the hub caps with bias gold lines. This car also had a set of knock-off wheels and was the first car of mine to be able to be changed up in an afternoon for a different look.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Anyway, ...BACK to your Camaro, ...that is going to be one COOL car

You're right back to the Camaro and thanks, I hope so.


The motorhome motor is a 2-bolt main stock GM build with trouble in cylinders 5 & 7. 7 showing the most damage with broken piston, exhaust valve etc. The cylinder head is cracked and being that they are a peanut port head the set was tossed in the scrap pile. My keep pile on this one is the block, crank, rods, balancer, flex plate, some tins, and the distributer. Build date stamp on this block is T0322FBK T=Tonawanda, March 22nd, FBK=1984 Truck 454 4B

[KevinK7]

...that is one gorgeous Vette (and even being a purist, those TorqueThrusts do look awsome on it ; )

...The motorhome block, now that isn't looking so great hopefully you can at least salvage the block...

[7dee2]

Thanks, great memories with that one. Yup, we’ll have to see if this block can pass a mag test. If it’s not cracked it could be a backup, being standard bore maybe it’ll clean up?


Next up is the newer “Good to go!” 1-ton motor, this one was more interesting to me. Picked it up inside a garage but it must have been outside at some time. It was completely full of water and took a minute to drain it all. “Good to go!” the previous owner had been told, poor guy said he paid like $500 for this motor. Here’s the oil filter, it’s pudding time, sure I’ll find plenty more of that. Cylinders 3 & 4 are slightly rusty, 4 has the most rust with the standing water and the piston being deeper in the bore. Signs that it was rebuilt are everywhere, it’s been decked (no vin & nonfactory broach marks), .030 over stamped on the pistons, etc. Another set of peanut port heads that I didn’t notice any obvious damage, but since we’ve got other more desirable heads in the collection these will also go to the scrap pile for now.

[Dieselwrencher]

The last 2 BBC's I've gotten were this way. Luckily I was able to get the LS3 402 torn apart. It wasn't as bad as it looked. I also got a 72? LS5 454 that had been setting for a while under the tarp with the heads off. I need to see if it can be honed or needs bored. It's pretty sad to think that 454's are getting tough to find a good buildable one.

[7dee2]

I hear you, I’ve really got my fingers crossed for this “Good to go!” block.


Ha, the moca locka choca pudding is everywhere and yes, this one is a 4-bolt core. Next up was cleaning the cylinders a little before trying to rotate and drive pistons out.

[7dee2]

I’m thinking this motor was an ATK or Jasper rebuild possibly, they stamped the pan rail, the crankshaft, etc. Cast crank and rods are scrap, main & rod bearings are both stamped .040 (wow, turned .040/.040), stock rods have already been reconditioned at least once or more? Keep pile on this one is the block, pistons, balancer, flex plate, tins, and the serpentine belt system, it's a score if the block is good! Build date stamp on this block is T1222ASC T=Tonawanda, December 22nd, ASC= 1988 Truck 454 MT L-19 TBI Vin N, 30

[7dee2]

It’s off to the machine shop with these cores for a hot tank & mag, hoping they're both buildable cores. I do prefer the 4-bolt main blocks but would build a 2-bolt in a pinch.

Now’s a good time to mention that there is a third block in the mix. Snagged another 4-bolt main block that's been slated for this Camaro build back when we built our 489 for my 72 K30. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=602 Don’t know much about this 3rd block other than it was available from the machine shop at the time. It's been bored just under .030 thou so the final bore and hone would take place when we’re ready to build. It's a 10069286-casting number (same as my K30 btw) which is a 90-91 454 4-bolt, Mark IV, Short deck, build date stamping is T1025FCJ T=Tonawanda, October 25th, FCJ= 1990 Truck 454 MT L-19 TBI These blocks were only cast as a 4-bolt main and are some of the very last factory Mark IV’s produced.

What’s the point of all this, my goal is a 496 or bigger (perhaps a 4.375 stroke 509-511?) for the Camaro, and another 489 for our C10 shorty project. I’ve had some great small blocks, super LS’s (including turbocharged) but I just love my big blocks!

[rgunlock]

Here's to a good outcome for you!

[7dee2]

Thanks Rick, I appreciate that. You know the problem of being a year behind on your build thread is we do already know the outcome, but where’s the suspense in that.

It’s time to make the car a roller and since we have not torn down the front subframe for rebuild yet the focus is on the rear suspension and diff. One decision I had to put some serious thought into was leaf or coil-over. The plan was always to run slapper (traction) bars, day 2, right? Well, we ordered a mini tubbed shell because I wanted to tuck some big meats. That leads to moving the leaf springs inboard for more tire clearance, easy enough with offset shackles and a shock relocation kit. Then came the big problem for me, the fuel tank, sure they make narrowed tanks or even a fuel cell in the trunk, both could solve the problem. But, I don’t want to give up trunk space in my street car and all the narrowed tanks are smooth on the bottom and don’t give a factory stamped appearance from behind the car. Since our car will sit a little higher in the back this would be even more noticeable, argh, crap! After beating myself up way too long I finally decided to go coil-over and try and make it look old school. This way, I’ll get the big meats tucked and can run a factory style tank.

As one of my friends loves to say when I talk about deviating from day 2 stuff “Yep, just like Grumpy had!”

Decision made we ordered a Chris Alston’s Chassisworks G-Link canted 4-link kit with weld on brackets, single adjustable coil-overs with 175lb springs, a 12-bolt weld fixture for the upper brackets, offset lower control arm mounts for mini tubbed cars, and double adjustable upper control arms. Here's a link and a pic, ours won't have the sway bar and no leaf spring brackets. http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1299...uspension.aspx

[7dee2]

Had this old set of M/T slicks kicking around for just this fitment purpose, they’re a 29.5/10.5-15. We also have a crusty mounted set of 265/50-15 T/A’s that are 25.5” diameter with a 10.4” tread width. It’s kind of a biggie smalls deal! https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc...5r15-265-50r15

Figured out really quickly that a 30” tall tire was going to be too tall without some clearance work to the rocker/fender openings. And yes, the crusty T/A’s are too short for our purposes so a 28” tall tire it is. I mentioned we’re going to run a 28” tall tire a few posts earlier when talking about gearing, just thought I’d post the low-tech process used to come to that conclusion.

It's interesting to see how this T/A set fits the original car with a stock wheel tub and diff width. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751594

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice! I didn't realize you ordered a new shell. That definitely would be appealing if you have the budget for it. If I ever build my 68, it'll get a 33x16-18 wide tire. Just because race car.

[7dee2]

Thanks Ryan. The new body shell was expensive, so glad we bought ours years ago. Your comment piqued my interest and made me look into what that would cost today, ouch! Oh, and a budget, in this crapper economy!


After eyeballing the heck out of this it was time to order some new wheels and tires. Here are some 325/50-15 M&H Racemaster Drag Radials, 28” diameter, 11” tread width, and a 12.4” section width that we’ll be mounting on a 10” rim. These should fit pretty well with an off the shelf rim if we can get the differential width right. Front runners are also M&H’s, 185/75-15 which is a 26” diameter, 5.3” tread width going on a pizza cutter 4.5” rim.

[72 tigger]

Good call on the tire/wheel choice! That rearend assembly is nice

[Dieselwrencher]

That is going to look really nice! Yeah, the shell prices are insane. At least now I have a shell. It is rough but I won't feel bad about cutting it up. Maybe it'll get a 6 cylinder since I sold the vette to my Dad.

[KevinK7]

Definitely looking forward to following this along.
I too was not aware how much those shells went up in price...wow!!
Crazy when I think, about 5-6 years ago I sold a low mileage (original CA black plate) 67 (327/275hp) for not a whole lot more than the current shells cost ...yikes.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Good call on the tire/wheel choice! That rearend assembly is nice

Thanks Kirk, yeah, the M&Hs are a new old school cool product that fits our build well IMO. I’m hoping the Chassisworks 4-link stuff will also work out for our rowdy streetcar. I like the adjustability it will offer as well as the gas tank fitment option I mentioned earlier.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That is going to look really nice! Yeah, the shell prices are insane. At least now I have a shell. It is rough but I won't feel bad about cutting it up. Maybe it'll get a 6 cylinder since I sold the vette to my Dad.

Ha, Ryan I can see you doing that, a first-gen soot puffer! It would be bad azz!

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Definitely looking forward to following this along.
I too was not aware how much those shells went up in price...wow!!
Crazy when I think, about 5-6 years ago I sold a low mileage (original CA black plate) 67 (327/275hp) for not a whole lot more than the current shells cost ...yikes.

Thanks Kevin, crazy times man. Our shell was assembled here in Sanford, FL by Real Deal Steel using AMD panels. Joe Whitaker an operating partner posted this last July on the companies Facebook page. It’s amazing the challenges the suppliers/manufacturers have been going through. https://www.facebook.com/realdealste...75871692714371



I was concerned for years that we wouldn’t be able to get any skinny Cragar’s for this build (the Toy 3 look), they had been out of production for quite a while. Prices were skyrocketing for rusty pitted crap that would have to be taken apart and reconditioned, sending the final cost for a set into orbit. As luck would have it timing was on our side, Cragar announced that they were going to make them available again, YES, we immediately ordered a set. Took a while (after being on a waiting list at Summit) but we got them and have had them on a shelf close to a year before ordering up the rears which shipped immediately.

[KevinK7]

Those wheels are going to look great!!!

With that said, since you mentioned Summit, and this is for ANYONE who places an order (BACKorder).
I needed to order a replacement Wheel Vintiques steel wheel for my 68 utility. I was placed on backorder, then about 6 months later I get an email from Summit that the order was "cancelled". I called Summit to find that they automatically cancel an order not filled within (whatever timeframe). The sad part is, I had to re-place the order...........and now I'm back at the end of the line. I am still awaiting that rim... (coming up on 1 year)

Long story short if you want a BACKorder to stay "active" with Summit, be sure to tell them to set it active indefinitely.
Granted there may be cases where you don't want to do this, but since Wheel Vintiques (in my case) is the only supplier, it's my only choice.

Didn't mean to divert from the Camaro, ...but thought to hopefully save others the 'headache'.

[Dieselwrencher]

That is going to look sweet! I wish they would make a 17x4.5 so I can put these on my 71. Some ding bat put big brakes on the front and I'm not sure I can get a 15"x4.5 on there now. I might have to get these for my 40 though. Where's that crack to sell to all these free crack pipe winners?

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Those wheels are going to look great!!!

With that said, since you mentioned Summit, and this is for ANYONE who places an order (BACKorder).
I needed to order a replacement Wheel Vintiques steel wheel for my 68 utility. I was placed on backorder, then about 6 months later I get an email from Summit that the order was "cancelled". I called Summit to find that they automatically cancel an order not filled within (whatever timeframe). The sad part is, I had to re-place the order...........and now I'm back at the end of the line. I am still awaiting that rim... (coming up on 1 year)

Long story short if you want a BACKorder to stay "active" with Summit, be sure to tell them to set it active indefinitely.
Granted there may be cases where you don't want to do this, but since Wheel Vintiques (in my case) is the only supplier, it's my only choice.

Didn't mean to divert from the Camaro, ...but thought to hopefully save others the 'headache'.

Thanks, I like Cragar SS’s and always have, some folks not so much (you know, crazy people ). Going to the back of the line really sucks, too bad you can’t source an OE wheel locally. When we ordered the skinny Cragar’s they had to be paid for in advance. I remembered thinking they must need the funds for production costs and didn’t want anyone backing out. Since then, it seems to be more common as we’ve had several vendors require full payment upfront.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That is going to look sweet! I wish they would make a 17x4.5 so I can put these on my 71. Some ding bat put big brakes on the front and I'm not sure I can get a 15"x4.5 on there now. I might have to get these for my 40 though. Where's that crack to sell to all these free crack pipe winners?

Thanks, they’d look great on the 40 also. I remember seeing a black 40 sedan at the track here years ago that had them, very sharp. Ha, “Some ding bat” was that you? I’m betting the 71 stops on a dime which is a very good thing. Besides, the wheels that you chose look great on your 2nd gen.



Downloaded this form years ago from a differential vendor (not sure who?) that came in handy for organizing our car's measurements and then calculations. With an actual set of wheels and tires that fit measured everything again to double, triple check, we are going to nail the differential width.

[LT7A]

Glad I found this thread - it's full of all sorts of fun. Your enthusiasm is contagious. I remember Grumpy's cars being in the magazines back in the day. I've got a set of Cragars that will be with me always. I will probably stipulate that they be mounted on the hearse for my last ride, whenever that happens, haha. And to top it off, you got a big block o rama going on. I look forward to checking back in.

[7dee2]

Thank you LT7A, I appreciate your comments. Ha, that would be going in style!


Yes, the 4-link is here and I picked up our BBC cores. Both cores got the AOK to build from this particular machine shop, they didn’t find any cracks etc. (the suspense was killing me too! ). Obviously, both will need machine work but so far this is good news. Still going to keep the 2-bolt motorhome block as a spare, but I’ve got some really big ideas for the good to go block.

[Dieselwrencher]

That is good on your blocks. I haven't had much luck lately. There's always some weird issue that ends up being expensive to repair or just will make the block weaker some how. Big plans must mean bigger inches?

[7dee2]

Both blocks showed signs of getting pretty hot so I am feeling lucky. At this point, they should be bored to see if the cylinders can be cleaned up. Yep, you got that right, starting to brainstorm on how big we can build the good to go block!



Here’s the bolt on fixture mentioned earlier for locating the upper control arm brackets and then the upper & lower brackets themselves. Boxed these items back up and immediately sent them to Moser along with the Chassisworks instructions for locating all the brackets. Thought that since we’re having them build us a differential we’d have them weld on the link brackets also. Thinking the welds will be better, the axle tubes will be straight, and the seals will go in after the heat.