SkinnyG's '61 Apache

[SkinnyG]

I might know a guy like that.

[SkinnyG]

I decided to keep the '68 column, modifying it to use the '61's mounting system. I will figure out how to work the '61's horn to operate on the '68 column.

It took a LOT of time mucking around with the column to figure out why it didn't shift, and how it should go back together. But it's done, and it's in.

The spline on the column is the exact same as the spline on the Fox Mustang rack. Interesting. Another 3/4-36 spline u-joint on the way. Anyone need a DD-to-DD u-joint?

Also removed the clutch pedal.

[Apache1961]

Rube Goldberg is right. I was able to get my '61 turn signal to work after buying some new parts and trying to figure out the proper assembly procedure of the parts, but the horn was not a success. I think it is either a bad wire or it isn't contacting correctly when the horn is pressed. Still have the horn button on the dash my grandpa installed though, so that project will be saved for later.

[Blue666(2)]

Originally Posted by Apache1961

Rube Goldberg is right. I was able to get my '61 turn signal to work after buying some new parts and trying to figure out the proper assembly procedure of the parts, but the horn was not a success. I think it is either a bad wire or it isn't contacting correctly when the horn is pressed. Still have the horn button on the dash my grandpa installed though, so that project will be saved for later.

Originally, the horn may have been grounded via the steering column to the steering box and frame. IIRC, my original column had a thin steel strap that went around rubber flex joint at the steering box end of the column. Just a thought.

[SkinnyG]

The '61 uses a pin in the wheel to contact a slip ring in the column.

The '68 uses a pin in the column to contact a slip ring on the wheel.

I will likely create a slip ring out of single-sided copper-clad PCB board, attach it to the wheel, and make sure it's grounded. This is exactly how the old Grant steering wheel adapters do their thing.

[SkinnyG]

No progress lately, buggered my hand good at work. Skin grows back.

3/4"-36 spline adapter arrived, so I can fit the steering shaft once I can wear gloves.

Started measuring to make an adapter to run hydroboost. Haven't decided if I will integrate everything, or make it reversible. Leaning towards fixed.

V-Bands for exhaust arrived, but have to decide whether to modify the LS manifolds in simple exhaust tubing, SCH40 pipe, or find 2.25 x 0.120 wall.

[SkinnyG]

Shifter is hooked up to the trans. PRND32 all line up, and 1 is just off the screen. It'll be fine. I -will- need to build up the P/R peg, as it's quite worn and too easy to slip out of park.





I got the steering connected, and had to chop a bit of the frame to do so.





Ride height also appears to be 11", measured from the front wheel center to the fender edge. That's, um, pretty low....

[SkinnyG]

Blasted and painted the power steering pump body, as well as the accessory mount.



Also ran a couple plugs and hung retracting extension cords in the shop, my only regret in the entire shop build.

[SkinnyG]

About eight iterations of Hydroboost mount brackets, trying to find something I like, and kind of copying what others have done before me. In the end, I will likely do a very simple bracket that bolts on where the original clutch/brake master sat (blocking off the clutch hole), and have the Hydroboost mount to that. Need to make a BIGASS wrench though.

[ElReeso]

This is one badass build!
I wish I had the skills to design and build a Suspension like that.. Want something similar for a 62 1Ton Truck

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I comprehend the plate to adapt the master and cover up the clutch hole, but what is the wrench for?

[SkinnyG]

[Notch1988]

What are the dimensions of the hydroboost hole and locating notch? I need to make a bracket as well.

[jkeating1]

Well-I may not recognize a hydroboost nut wrench, but that there is sure a duck in that paint overspray

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

[SkinnyG]

Originally Posted by Notch1988

What are the dimensions of the hydroboost hole and locating notch? I need to make a bracket as well.

The threads of the Hydroboost are 1.625" diameter, I made the hole 1.635". I made a 1/4" x 3/16" notch, but ended up filing it to fit. The plate and the wrench were done on the CNC plasma at work.

[SkinnyG]

I just measured the original plate's pin, and it's 0.200" wide, 0.090" deep.

[Notch1988]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I just measured the original plate's pin, and it's 0.200" wide, 0.090" deep.

Thanks for that, sure doesn't seem very deep. I think I'll go with 1/4" wide x 1/8" deep and file if needed then.

[SkinnyG]

It's only purpose is to hold it from spinning while you loosen/tighten the nut.

[SkinnyG]

Got the Hydroboost mounted. Just have to alter the link to the brake pedal.

Also mounted the PS/Alt bracket, after a duck-shaped coating of Plastikote Aluminum engine paint. PS pump was blasted and sprayed with Zinc and then Tremclad Hammered finish. Pulley is black brake caliper paint I had.

Pump reserviour was the nicest one I found at the wreckers, but lo and behold, it was beginning to rot out under the powdercoating. This is turning me off of powdercoating the frame. Reserviour was blasted, zinc'd and will get a coat of Tremclad Hammered tomorrow.

I put the "non-bent" fender on the driver's side and was pleased to dicover this truck is NOT too low after all - it can steer!. It'll be DANG low, but it will steer easily AND be able to hit bumps at the same time. Yay!

[cwcarpenter98]

Man, I can't wait to see this truck rolling low Keep up the great work!

[SkinnyG]

Trimmed the inner fenders to clear the shock mounts, steering shaft, and raised crossmember. Placed nose just to see how to fit intercooler. And AC condenser. And trans cooler. And PS cooler. And oil cooler. And cooling fan. Going to be an interesting challenge. I quit and went in when my brain was full.

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Trimmed the inner fenders to clear the shock mounts, steering shaft, and raised crossmember. Placed nose just to see how to fit intercooler. And AC condenser. And trans cooler. And PS cooler. And oil cooler. And cooling fan. Going to be an interesting challenge. I quit and went in when my brain was full.

Interesting, yes, but again I contend—a guy who can get a 350 in a Firefly.....

[Notch1988]

Thanks for the dimensions. Had a plate cut and it fit great. I did 1/4" wide by 1/8" deep on the notch and had to do a little bit of filing.

[SkinnyG]

Oh look what Princess Auto had on sale today! I bought three, so I can make two. My plan is to make decent inner fenders, so keep road crap out of the rust areas.

[SkinnyG]

To mount the intercooler, I need to remove the rad support X bracing and chop some metal out of the vertical supports.

To fit the AC Condenser, I need to move the rad back an inch.

To mount the Turbo, I need to decide if I want to go mild steel or stainless on the crossover, and if I want to go 2.5" or 2.25" (though it may not really matter). And decide how I want to clear the PS pump and reservoir.

So.... I spent some time today tidying the shop, and staring at everything.

And removing the end links of the 9" axle's sway bar so I can see where they need to go.

And exciting news, the driveshaft arrived. 1350 ends and high-speed balanced, from Bear's Performance out of Ontario.





And I -will need to take the cab off and cut some more out of the frame to fit this.