My New Truck

[Factory Guy]

Started on the New LS Swap. I grabbed this LS Engine out of a running Express Van 2500. It seems pretty complete. Prior to purchase I did not get to pull the valve covers, but when I did I was pleasantly surprised how clean the valve train and the top of the engine was. Oh BTW its a LQ4 6.0.

Been doing a bunch of research of the Tejas Steelwork web site as he has a awesome guide that shows lots of tips on what to do for swapping a LS into a Squarebody.

Here's the link:

https://tejassteelworks.com/wp-conte...uide-73_87.pdf

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by Factory Guy

Started on the New LS Swap. I grabbed this LS Engine out of a running Express Van 2500. It seems pretty complete. Prior to purchase I did not get to pull the valve covers, but when I did I was pleasantly surprised how clean the valve train and the top of the engine was. Oh BTW its a LQ4 6.0.

Been doing a bunch of research of the Tejas Steelwork web site as he has a awesome guide that shows lots of tips on what to do for swapping a LS into a Squarebody.

Here's the link:

https://tejassteelworks.com/wp-conte...uide-73_87.pdf

Bravo! Best of luck sir... if I managed, I have no doubt you'll have yours up and running in no time. Feel free to reach out if you come to any dead ends.

Edit: tejas' guide is very helpful. Also the United by Trucks youtube page, and specifically their "Pecos" build has a lot of solid info, part numbers etc.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by ShortHaul

Bravo! Best of luck sir... if I managed, I have no doubt you'll have yours up and running in no time. Feel free to reach out if you come to any dead ends.

Edit: tejas' guide is very helpful. Also the United by Trucks youtube page, and specifically their "Pecos" build has a lot of solid info, part numbers etc.

Agreed! United by trucks, "Pecos" has given me lots of information along with a bunch of other sites on the Interwebs!

[Factory Guy]

I haven't posted in a while. Been working on the new engine. Slowly tearing it down to see what's what. This LS engine looks real complicated from all the wiring and stuff up top. One you take that off it doesn't seem near as bad.

And of course this engine has a broken exhaust studs on both heads.

[Factory Guy]

So I guess I will need to figure out a new fuel system for this truck. Plans are to take the left (drivers side) fuel tank and convert it to Fuel injection. Passenger side will remain as carbureted for now so I can still drive the truck. My plans are NOT to take the truck apart until the new engine runs and is ready to be placed into the truck.

Yes I plan to start the engine before it goes into its final home.

So I bought a new fuel tank (1987 C20) and Fuel Injection, pump for the left fuel side. Since the fuel tank didn't come with any paint I first painted it with Rust Oleum rusty metal primer on the tank then put on Rust Oleum Silver. I have had extremely good luck with these Rust Oleum paints.

I painted some fenders with this Paint (Rusty Metal Primer) over 40 years ago and still own that car and they have never rusted through!

Fuel sending unit is stock style (Spectre brand-1987 C20). Fuel pump is a Kemso 340. The I tested the unit before I set it in the Tank, both the pump and the sending unit.

Using the Gates Barricade Fuel injection hoses for my fuel lines back to the hard steel lines that already exist on the truck (since they are in great shape).

[Factory Guy]

Started tearing down the LS engine. I thought it couldn't be all that dirty and I was wrong. Its dirtier (sp?) than I thought. I guess since it was in an Express van it probably never got cleaned. And yes both Exhaust manifolds had 1 broken bolt in each head.

I will take this thing out and start power washing it to get rid of most of the crud.

[Factory Guy]

Basically I power washed it upside down, just like this.

It cleaned up pretty well!

[notsolo]

Nice upgrade, your going to like the LS......LS fuel pump is 55 psi, Kemso 340. 43-90. Psi does this need a fuel regulator? Beautiful truck BTW.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Nice upgrade, your going to like the LS......LS fuel pump is 55 psi, Kemso 340. 43-90. Psi does this need a fuel regulator? Beautiful truck BTW.

Thanks

[Factory Guy]

So I removed the heads to install a Cam. But that's as far down as I plan to take it if everything looks good.

If not we will be doing something different.

Top end looked good. Nothing broken, NO SIGNS OF SCORING. All the pushrods look good, all the connecting rods look good, all connecting rods are tight in their bores, no signs of bluing (as if one had locked up).

However the oil pan was a very varnished up. I was surprised considering how clean the top end was.

[Factory Guy]

So time for a confession. I had to pull the harmonic balancer in order to get to the Camshaft. So I rented one of those Chevy/Dodge pullers from Orielly's. Long story short, the extension for the puller wasn't long enough to get the Harmonic Balancer pulley off so I decided to use one of my 1/4" extensions. I managed to jam it into the bolt of the puller so hard I COULDN'T get it out!

Needless to say I now own that puller.

I later found out that if you rent from Autozone they include insurance to cover mishaps such as this. So you don't get stuck with the tool you may never need again.

So I cut off my 1/4" extension and drilled it out and now have a puller for next time!

[Factory Guy]

So I wire wheeled the block and cleaned her up and painted the block with Rusty Metal primer to get her ready to go.

I used Uncle Tony's method for painting my block:

https://youtu.be/syyJEaxHEck

[Factory Guy]

Got the block and oil pan, timing chain cover cleaned up/painted.

I think it turned out pretty well.

TIDE POWDER (not the pods, not the liquid) works amazing for cleaning up the engine oil sludge and grime, a small scrub brush and some warm to hot water works great! This oil pan looks brand new now!

[Factory Guy]

Here's a couple more shots.

[Factory Guy]

Now its time to re do the cylinder heads.

A quick test showed #4 exhaust was leaking and #6 intake was leaking as well when I did the "solvent test".

[Factory Guy]

As I stated, each one of the Cylinder heads has a broken exhaust stud in them. So I stepped up and bought a new toy from a friend of mine. I got a MIG welder as everything I read, says that is the easiest way to get out broken exhaust studs. Sure enough after learning how the new welder works I got out all 3 of the broken exhaust studs without using an easy out or damaging the heads!

[Factory Guy]

So I started to rebuild the heads, first I disassembled them and started the process, then I am rebuilding them as shown on POWERNATION:

https://youtu.be/CGhOApOGjOA?t=591

[evan]

Thanks for posting all the detail and pictures. I couldn't pass up a deal on a 2500HD last weekend so I've got a crusty old LQ4 and 4L80e that needs a new home too.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by evan

Thanks for posting all the detail and pictures. I couldn't pass up a deal on a 2500HD last weekend so I've got a crusty old LQ4 and 4L80e that needs a new home too.

Cool stuff! keep us posted!

Yep I have a 4L80e as well waiting to go in!

[Factory Guy]

So the Cylinder heads had no MAJOR issues both now have all the valves "lapped in"

Started by cleaning the valves with a red scotch brite pads.

Surfaces are all decked and found to be flat.

New PAC 1218 Springs are installed now (needed for the new camshaft). New valve seals were installed as well.


I think they turned out pretty good!

[Factory Guy]

So I was debating on how to clean the intake manifold as it looks pretty greasy, on the inside.

Came across this guys video on youtube and it works really well to clean out the intake runners.


https://youtu.be/clydV1x87q0

[evan]

Originally Posted by Factory Guy

So the Cylinder heads had no MAJOR issues both now have all the valves "lapped in"

Started by cleaning the valves with a red scotch brite pads.

Surfaces are all decked and found to be flat.

New PAC 1218 Springs are installed now (needed for the new camshaft). New valve seals were installed as well.


I think they turned out pretty good!

What was your process for lapping the valves and flattening the surfaces?

Edit: Nevermind, sorry. I clicked the link to the Powernation video.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by evan

What was your process for lapping the valves and flattening the surfaces?

Edit: Nevermind, sorry. I clicked the link to the Powernation video.

I started by testing the sealing of the valves and found that several had issues so this lead me to rebuild my own heads...

First I disassembled the heads looking for cracks (found nothing!). Then I soaked them down with some oven cleaner. Then I power washed the SH** out of them, they were way dirtier than I would have guessed. Then I bead blasted them (mostly just the combustion cambers) I avoided the temptation to do the deck surfaces. Inspected all the valves, and seats (all looked great). I decked the cylinder head surface as shown in the Powernation video, with the big metal tube highlighted by the yellow arrows, below (however, I didn't start with 80 grit, I used 120 grit to start with), that took away the rest of the old gasket material on the cylinder head deck, and I felt very confident in the fact the heads were now flat. Are the race engine certified?

NO, but for my truck they ought to be pretty good.

I pretty much lapped the valves in, as this guy at Horsepower Monster shows in his video:

https://youtu.be/Ik4sj46xWmA

[evan]

Originally Posted by Factory Guy

I started by testing the sealing of the valves and found that several had issues so this lead me to rebuild my own heads...

First I disassembled the heads looking for cracks (found nothing!). Then I soaked them down with some oven cleaner. Then I power washed the SH** out of them, they were way dirtier than I would have guessed. Then I bead blasted them (mostly just the combustion cambers) I avoided the temptation to do the deck surfaces. Inspected all the valves, and seats (all looked great). I decked the cylinder head surface as shown in the Powernation video, with the big metal tube highlighted by the yellow arrows, below (however, I didn't start with 80 grit, I used 120 grit to start with), that took away the rest of the old gasket material on the cylinder head deck, and I felt very confident in the fact the heads were now flat. Are the race engine certified?

NO, but for my truck they ought to be pretty good.

I pretty much lapped the valves in, as this guy at Horsepower Monster shows in his video:

https://youtu.be/Ik4sj46xWmA

Nice, thanks for the extra detail. I went down the rabbit hole of Richard Holdener videos on Youtube and picked up a set of 706 heads to replace the 317's that came on my LQ4. I'm going to copy your process on them.

[Factory Guy]

Originally Posted by evan

Nice, thanks for the extra detail. I went down the rabbit hole of Richard Holdener videos on Youtube and picked up a set of 706 heads to replace the 317's that came on my LQ4. I'm going to copy your process on them.

Cool stuff! I wish you well. I just figured anybody can take their stuff to the machine shop, so I figured what the heck I just give it a try myself. (Watch out make sure you don't have the 706 heads that are stamped "castech" they are prone to cracking).