51 Chev on a S10 frame, named Dale

[Jason 56]

I like your cab corner solution. Should work well! So have you fired it up yet? It looks like you’re almost ready.

[Tempest67]

Have not fired it up yet, as there a few more things to do, but getting close.

[Tempest67]

Hi Guys,

Nothing exciting, but, installed S 10 parking brake assembly with front and intermediate cables. When I replaced the inner kick panel I welded another piece of metal to the inside with 3 weld nuts to accept the parking brake assembly. Before install I also cut and glued some jute to the kick panels.

Had to cut an intermediate cable, and route front cable to take up some excess, and raise cable over exhaust and drive shaft.

Then bled the brakes, adjusted rear brakes, and installed rear wheels and spacers. Used impact gun with loctite on those 1 1/4 inch spacers...... also cut excess off of U bolts.

Also added Power Steering Fluid, Coolant and Oil.

Still need to bleed the clutch, and prime the oil system, but getting closer to start up.

[8man]

I may get you to do my E-brake cables, good job. How does the dome light switch work in that location?

[Tempest67]

8man - doing the cables is not that bad, just make sure you get cables that are longer than you need, cut them to the length you want, weld a 'tab' on the end, and you have custom length cables. Maybe not pretty, but it works, and no one will see the end. (sorry for the fuzzy pic)

I added a clamp to the floor to keep the cables up and away from the driveshaft. I wish I mounted the assembly a bit higher, but with the plate behind, I can't now. I will clean up the assembly before I add an interior.... but it does work.

as for the door switch, good eye, (you guys don't miss a thing) My wiring harness had the interior door switch wires, so I picked up a few switches, and 2 under dash lights for each end of the dash, and fished some wire from the door jamb to above the kick panels.

I did attach my battery (for the first time) and all was good. No smoke, and the door switches work manually, but I don't have my doors on yet..... maybe add a shim to the door??? not sure,


under dash lights https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500081

door jamb switch https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80170

[Tempest67]

Hi Guys,

it's been a while. I find it tough to work in the garage with high humidity (I know I know, how can I complain from Canada?)

I have a good news.......... Dale is alive !!! with a heartbeat.

Started him up last weekend, adjusted the valves, set timing... sounds good.

However, I am having trouble with my master cylinder/slave cylinder combo, so I need to figure that out before my first drive. (very hard pedal to move slave cyl)

.... and time to attach all the sheet metal too

[Tempest67]

also, dome lights work great with those switches

[youngrodder]

This looks really good. Nice job on getting it fired off..
I agree with the humidity. The temps here in Michigan have dropped and it is more enjoyable working out in the garage with lower temps..

Marc

[Tempest67]

Thanks Youngrodder, I will treat myself to those 'braided cloth' ignition wires sometime before next summer........... they are just too cool.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Hi Guys,

it's been a while. I find it tough to work in the garage with high humidity (I know I know, how can I complain from Canada?)

I have a good news.......... Dale is alive !!! with a heartbeat.

Started him up last weekend, adjusted the valves, set timing... sounds good.

However, I am having trouble with my master cylinder/slave cylinder combo, so I need to figure that out before my first drive. (very hard pedal to move slave cyl)

.... and time to attach all the sheet metal too

Keep hammering away (not literally with that nice paint)

Humidity in PA was bad enough that I kept getting dehydrated after an hour or two in the garage. It was just too much to be out there so the project stalled for a few weeks. I've been back at it now though.

Fall is coming, let the building begin before the snow freezes all our fingers too much to hold tools!

[Tempest67]

I was afraid if I complained about the heat, our 'southern' friends would be upset, I am glad I am not the only one up here that slows down in the summer.(MI and PA are close)

as they say, "it's not the heat, it's the humility"


keep on keepin' on, more updates as they happen

[Ol Blue K20]

Congratulations on getting it running.......nice job!!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

I have a good news.......... Dale is alive !!! with a heartbeat.

[Jason 56]

I agree with the humidity problem. Not a fan either! Upper peninsula of Michigan is really Just a giant swamp with some high ground I took a break for a couple weeks myself. Congratulations on getting dale running. One step closer to cruising

[8man]

Running! Congrats!

[Tempest67]

As I was assembling the front sheet metal I noticed that the top 1/2 of the rad will be covered by the hood. So, I decided to fab up a wind deflector to make sure that as much air would flow through the rad as possible.


Not sure if anyone is having overheating problems with their S10 conversions, but here is my solution, to a problem that I don't know if I had.

1st pic the metal form
2nd pic mocked up
3rd pic installed and painted

also, might not look too impressive, but I removed the rod from my clutch slave cylinder, cut up an old screw driver 1 inch longer, and installed it........... and now it shifts !!!! now I need to get a machine shop make me a proper push rod.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

As I was assembling the front sheet metal I noticed that the top 1/2 of the rad will be covered by the hood. So, I decided to fab up a wind deflector to make sure that as much air would flow through the rad as possible.

Not sure if anyone is having overheating problems with their S10 conversions, but here is my solution, to a problem that I don't know if I had.

Nice solution! Yes, the lower splash apron is an integral part of the airflow system on these trucks and often gets hacked up on S10 conversions.
I used a truck mudflap on mine, but your setup is much cleaner.

[Father&son56project]

I'm glad you posted about that potential air flow issue, as I was wondering the exact same thing myself yesterday while I was working on my rad support. I had to ditch several metal panels inside the front grill of the Fargo while adapting the S10 frame. Your filler panel looks like it's part of the original truck, and the idea of using flexible rubber as suggested by MiraclePieCo is clever. I love the different ways that builders on this board solve problems!

[joedoh]

great advice!

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Not sure if anyone is having overheating problems with their S10 conversions

the first one I did with the help of a friend, didnt have any type of air director and still doesnt, it has never overheated and I talk to the current owner 2-3 times a month.

for all mine since, I build an air director. in town we have a aircraft surplus called "the yard" and they sell sheets of kydex, which is a super flexible abs. if you try to bend typical abs it gets those white stress marks and can even crack but the kydex stuff can be bent all kinds of ways and snaps back. I am able to close out the splash pan area with it, works great.

[28TudorAZ]

Looking great!!!! Would love to see more pictures of the full truck.

[Tempest67]

Glad to hear that these don't have overheating issues. I just saw a potential problem and figured it would be easier to solve it now, than later.

TudorAZ, I am hoping for my first ride this weekend, I will try to take some pics of it outside...........

[doowoppwer]

in for the rest of this project...roger

[twinshadows]

Hey Tempest67 . .

So . .. . I drive a 69 Nova - 250ci / 6 , and March 2018 installed a Borg Warner
T 5 trans (behind my six) . . . . but still using my stock 69 mech. speedo.
My T 5 was from a 93 GMC S-15 (2.8 V6 motor) . . . and had the electric speedo
- - VSS sensor . So, I "ponied - up" and bought the "SpeedBox from Speed Hut" .
Converts u'r mech speedo to work with u'r VSS drive output . . . . . . kinda .

# 1 - - Speed Box unit ;


# 2 - - only using my GPS antenna , VSS sensor on the trans , is not
even hooked - up . Checked reading against a 'smart phone - GPS app' . . . reads
very close (maybe 150 / 175 feet off) .
magnetic GPS antenna 'stuck on the cowl screen' .


# 3 - -


cheaper than new gauges . . . . . . works for me (really works pretty good ) .
just FYI . . . . "Speed Hut.com" .

. . . . . and, I like u'r truck . . . . . jim

[Tempest67]

Twin Shadows, - Thanks for that info on the Speedbox. I am not sure what I am going to do for gauges????? I have not even driven the truck yet, but I am thinking it was a mistake to try and use the S10 gauges, I should have just 'ponied up' and bought new ones???

It seems a few guys have used the Dolphin Gauges and they seem to work? and they look fine.

I really like the 'New Vintage' Gauges but have a tough time with $1000.


For the short term, I plan to get the truck driving, work out the bugs, and decide what to do over the winter... but thanks for that info., its good to know that the Speedbox works. (for $360)

[Tempest67]

Hey Guys,

Starting to install carpet and insulation.

first I covered entire floor with a weather proofing product used for roofing, very thin, but I thought it would seal it all up. (white with Blueskin on it.)

Then I found a rubber/butyl tape (Blue colored tape) that is used to seal skylights and roof flashing (lots of stuff in roofing aisle at Lowes/Hope Depot) I cut sections and attached to floor, also used some in the doors to eliminate that tin can sound when you close them. (and it works well) ...caution - if this stuff folds over and attaches to itself, you will never get it separated.

Then I cut the roll of jute and used contact cement to attach to the floor.

more to come....