Ford Model A Tudor Modern Twist on a Classic

[28TudorAZ]

Damn...that thing is going to be scary on the street.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

Damn...that thing is going to be scary on the street.

It certainly sounds the part when I don't have much of an exhaust yet. Just for you guys/gals sneak peek of the first engine start.

https://youtu.be/u0ejBlZbd-U

So here's the issue.... I've racked my brain on the Terminator X manual and wiring the harness. The video shows the engine running but only when I have the key in start. As soon as I release to the "On" position, the engine dies.

- There is constant power to the Ignition pin when turning the key to start
- The terminator X harness has the ignition red/white wire going to this ignition pin on the key
- Fuel Pump is working
- There are no error lights on the Terminator X ECU
- I data logged tonight during a start up and it does show the MAP, MAF, and - TPS reading along with REVS.
- ECU power comes straight from the battery terminal
- The ignition key switch "BAT+" terminal comes from the large hot pin on the starter.

The alternator is currently not connected
Fuel pressure is not connected, but also not required says the manual
Oil pressure is not connected, but also not required

Tomorrow I'm going to try connect the alternator +/out to the large starter pin/peg and see if there is some reason the ECU is cutting off because it doesn't see voltage.

Taking suggestions!

SOLVED -- After reviewing every wire I had plugged in I decided to check the relay that wasn't triggering for the fuel pump. The other end of that relay goes to a collective ground wire for both the Terminator X relay and the ignition coil harness. I decided to reground it a little better than the painted door post I was using as a temporary fix. Bam, everything ran! What a rookie

[gigamanx]

How's everyone's summer going!? Just started the car up again for the first time after pulling all the wires through correctly and finishing up some minor paint items. Pedals installed, steering is getting reconnected, and I'll spend the winter working on the gauge panel...

For now, hoping to drive under it's own power here before packing things up for the winter. Looking very official underneath with a finished exhaust!









Decided to get started on understanding interior upholstery so I went and found a gently used Sailrite Fabricator to play with. Serious sewing machine!



Finally, I had to say goodbye to my companion and shop buddy this summer. Left a big hole in my life where she fit nicely.

[mongocanfly]

Nice looking dash..!!
Its always hard to lose a friend....I sometimes still have a hard time with losing mine..and its been a couple of yrs now

[gigamanx]

Here she is! First shake down drive video: https://youtu.be/lP9bVRnLvTU



Glass is ordered from the shop. Bled the brakes a few times until they felt solid. Working on issues with seating and steering arrangements at the moment. I am only 5' 10" and keep hitting my knee when I turn. Looks like a 15" wheel isn't going to cut it in this car. Considering building bucket seats so I can get them dialed in perfect for the cabin space. I have not found any seats thin enough at the base to fit.

[mongocanfly]

Congrats!!!!!!!!!!....

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

congrats!!!!!!!!!!....

x2!!!

[gigamanx]

Wasn't happy with the seats, so why not cut my bucket seats in half and take out a section, weld them together, buy a sewing machine, learn to upholster, buy some foam, sew seat covers....

[gigamanx]

Hit a road block, but progress has been made every week. Trying to get to a point to be registered so I've been working on mirrors, wipers, lights, and all the electrical. Closing up the rear panels to cover the gas tank and battery.

My road block is the front brakes. A drive around the block will cause them to heat up and "stick" to the rotors. Both rotors seem to do the same thing and they are Wilwoods. I am feeding the front brakes from a single line with a T near the left front. I'm thinking something is happening upstream in the proportioning valve or master cylinder, but not sure how to start troubleshooting. Brakes feel firm and stop fine, but definitely couldn't drive this a mile without overheating the rotors.

[mongocanfly]

Looks great..!!!..
I'd believe I'd start with the prop valve..

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

looks great..!!!..
I'd believe i'd start with the prop valve..

x2

[gigamanx]

Thanks guys. Other place I'm considering starting with is double checking the pin between the booster and master cylinder. I thought I had set the depth, but the pads seem awful close to the rotor. Wondering if I'm restricting the cylinder from returning all the way too. As far as prop valve goes, should I just replace it? There doesn't seem to be much I can adjust or check with that thing. It's one of the generic GM style ones.

Update, I'm a bone head.

I loosened the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster. Figured if there was a gap problem with the push rod then I just created more gap. That did nothing. I then went forward and undid the bolts holding the brake pedal to the booster. Maybe, I thought, I had tightened the bolts too much and causing friction on the pedal so it couldn't return. Low and behold I had installed the pedal before I put the steering column in. The top of the pedal arm hits the column when it returns. This made the pin for the power booster only be able to return about 80% of it's travel thus... brake drag!

Hoping I'm not celebrating too early, have to take a drive to confirm!

[gigamanx]

Posting for no reason other than hitting 1,000 posts!! wooo

[gigamanx]

First drive, first fill up!

[joesscamaro]

Looks awesome! I'm sure you won't be able to go anywhere without getting asked a million questions.

[youngrodder]

Very cool..Yes, diagnosing brake issues can lead one down a rabbit hole. Glad it was a simple/easy fix.

Looks great. I love the color.

Marc

[mongocanfly]

very cool X2..!!!!!!
Glad you got the brake issue sorted out..
You have a very cool ride..!!!!..color is spot on

[28TudorAZ]

I haven't been on here for a while. Looking great. I am currently working on a doing an LS Swap on a 69 International Scout. You should get the same engine cover I did.

[richard2717]

I see you are in Hershey. I would not recommend coming to OC MD with it during any of the cruises. They have a special event zone now that the cops get to make up their own rules and they will impound you for not having fenders or hood among other things. I think the base cost of impound was $900 last year and the tickets went into the thousands for some. Even if you beat the tickets in court, which most do, you don't get the impound fees back.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by richard2717

I see you are in Hershey. I would not recommend coming to OC MD with it during any of the cruises. They have a special event zone now that the cops get to make up their own rules and they will impound you for not having fenders or hood among other things. I think the base cost of impound was $900 last year and the tickets went into the thousands for some. Even if you beat the tickets in court, which most do, you don't get the impound fees back.

Wow, thank you, had no idea. I'm almost plated and titled at the moment with a successful PA enhanced inspection a few weeks ago. Mechanic suggested a few tweaks to the front end and brakes to tighten things up. I'm glad he said something because I forgot to tighten some pretty major nuts during assembly! I do plan on moving to Annapolis, MD and worry about the changes in what is allowed down that way. It seems like they only want to see Street Rods on a Sunday at a show.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

I haven't been on here for a while. Looking great. I am currently working on a doing an LS Swap on a 69 International Scout. You should get the same engine cover I did.

Very nice cover. I am planning on doing a low profile Holley intake polished, but I had to put money other places to get it driving. I also read something as simple as an intake also means new fuel rails, injectors, throttle body, blah blah lol...I decided to save it for another day.

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Wow, thank you, had no idea. I'm almost plated and titled at the moment with a successful PA enhanced inspection a few weeks ago. Mechanic suggested a few tweaks to the front end and brakes to tighten things up. I'm glad he said something because I forgot to tighten some pretty major nuts during assembly! I do plan on moving to Annapolis, MD and worry about the changes in what is allowed down that way. It seems like they only want to see Street Rods on a Sunday at a show.

Yea the H20i crowd seems to have ruined the car cruising scene in OC. During the special event zone times they basically make up laws or rules to be able to generate revenue. Some people say they have no issues but I have seen quite a few on the hook.

there are a couple FB groups if you are not already on them.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1427704967475480

https://www.facebook.com/groups/CruisinOceanCity

.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

I haven't been on here for a while. Looking great. I am currently working on a doing an LS Swap on a 69 International Scout. You should get the same engine cover I did.

Get your Alternate Tinkerings thread started!

[Dieselwrencher]

The rod looks awesome! Did you get your brakes figured out? I had a similar issue on my vette and it ended up being the MC push rod was adjusted a little too far out. When the brake fluid warmed up it applied the front calipers and they would lock on. It was the strangest thing.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

Get your Alternate Tinkerings thread started!

Great idea. Done.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=844133