55.2-59 Ol' Blue

[8man]

Well, new endeavor for me today. I got a HF paint gun and some Master Coat rustproofing and for the first time in my life, I mixed paint and sprayed it with a gun.

IMG_1831 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I used the Master Coat on the Cherokee frame 12 years ago, and it still looks just like it did the day I "brushed" it on. This means there are some brush marks in it, but there is absolutely no rust. So, this time I thought I'd just try spraying it. I think it worked, but the test will be when I do the topcoat to see if it looks good.

A number of the parts are to hold the Cameo bed fiberglass to the steel bed sides. Some is for the frame, like front bumper mounts and some of the rear spring stuff.

Anyway, I can now say "I'll never be a painter!" Painters have a talent I'll never have. Also, I can make a mess so big it takes hours to clean up, but I did like the way the Mastercoat went on.

[Tempest67]

way to go.

I painted with a gun for the first time about 20 years ago, and I enjoyed it. So much that I tried to paint a car, and it worked out fine.

Take your time, don't rush the flash time, and smooth even strokes will give you decent results. (you don't have to cover it with the first coat)

Here is my Lemans in Primer, after Base, after Clear, and finished.

From the prices that I hear that people pay for paint (JUST PAINT) I would start a side business if I had the space.

Congrats, the first time is always the most difficult, now you have done that, you will get better each time.

[8man]

Nice work Tempest!

[8man]

Ok, I bit the bullet and I sprayed the frame.
IMG_1836 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I used the MasterCoat system, two coats of their rust proofing and 2 coats of their topcoat. I used it on the Jeep frame, but I brushed it on and threw away the brushes. This time I sprayed it with the HF paint gun. I won't do it again! Clean up was a total PITA! I went through a box of gloves and 3 rolls of paper towels. It took way more time than it should have. Yes, rust is not going to come back. When I did the Jeep, I put some left over on the shredder and there is no rust where I painted it, but it was just too much of a pain.

I will be assembling the frame next.

I got the cab and doors back from Dip and Strip, and they look great. I took some pictures, but between the phone and the computer, they are not showing up so I can post them. I'll get some more to post later today.

I will start welding up the firewall holes, and getting the cab and doors ready for primer, because they are raw steel right now.

Rignt now, I'm taking the original frame and running gear to storage, just in case I ever need it.

[8man]

Here is what the cab and doors look like after doing the "Strip and Dip" process.
IMG_1838 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_1837 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Almost all the steel looks like this, multiple layers of old paint removed, some bondo on the bottom of a door where it was dented, any surface rust is gone. The floor will need to be wire wheeled or sanded or something as the solution sat on that flat surface and dried. Now it is like a coating. It can be removed, and it is certainly a lot easier to do just that than the whole cab, doors and hinges.

Next is assemble the painted frame.

[58CameoAZ]

Hi Sir,

just read up on your post here, if you happen to be still in need of the Cameo Tailgate i would get ahold of Gabriel Carbajal out of California, I have delt with him on parts for my 58 Cameo. great Guy to deal with and he also does beautiful Chrome work if you happen to need for your truck. He knows these trucks also and been in the business for a long time. for what its worth!
Wish you the Best with your Build!
Allen

[8man]

Thanks. Gabe did my chrome.

I did find a complete original tailgate from a very nice guy in Fla.

[58CameoAZ]

Originally Posted by 8man

Thanks. Gabe did my chrome.

I did find a complete original tailgate from a very nice guy in Fla.

Nice !!!
Most of my Cameo Chrome was done by Gabe, just got some of the last parts back from him for my truck! He does nice work and great
Guy to work with for sure!

[8man]

Ok, I've not been asleep all this time. I have the frame almost ready to set the cab on it. That means the rear end is in place with the U-bolts tightened just a little to keep it from moving. I got some tires and wheels to make it a roller. The front end is mostly assembled, springs and spindles yet to go. However, I've been told not to do that until I am ready to put some weight on it. So, it will sit for a little longer.

I have cut off all the old stuff from the firewall, so I can start welding up holes. Today I got the 3-point seat belt brackets installed. This had me so concerned I did a separate post on it. Well, the anticipation was much worse than the installation.
IMG_1872 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I have been working on an AC vent for the middle of the dash. I am almost ready to cut the hole and get the mounting brackets finished. I saw it on Bob's truck and really liked it. I'll also be modifying the dash a little to get the extra controllers installed.

Next time I'll post more pictures.

[8man]

I've started working on the holes in things. The worst one I've addressed is the driver's door. There looks to be an accident site, where they may have "pulled" the dent out. Anyway, the holes look to be rust outs that were under a layer of bondo.

Here is what I cut out.
IMG_1878 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I made the patch and tried to get its shape just like the door. I primed the back side and here is my tacked in place patch.
IMG_1879 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

At this point, the patch felt smooth with the door metal. The metal came out of the back panel of a 54, so it should be the same steel.

I took almost 1.5 hours welding it in, doing a few tacks all the way around, only where the metal felt cool enough. Then some grinding with a 3" grinder with36 grit and finishing with a 120 grit flap disc.
IMG_1880 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I used a pick on the spots that looked like they weren't welded up. I went back over it 2 times before I got to this point. I can say the dark spots are not holes, and they have good metal under them.

There is a little wave left to right, so there will be some filler, but I think it will work.

Cab work starts next!

[washington blue]

Nice repair.

[dsraven]

when you do the tack on tack style of mig do you start the next tack on top of the existing tack? thats what I like to do as it forms a more continuous weld when done, no pin holes between tacks. I always let everuthing cool well, so I could stick my tongue on it with no issues (yeah, but i wouldn't, right?) I use compressed air to cool the weld spots off. a hammer on dolly helps after each tack too as it helps with shrinkage. tack, hammer, cool. spot weld in different spots around the patch so heat stays minimal and patch doesn't end up off kilter from shrinking as the weld cools.
nice job. if it has waviness try the old laundry iron held on the spots and then after it has warmed up the high spots remove the iron and wipe the area with a wet rag. the iorn only hits the high spots so this method shrinks the highs down. it only needs to be hot enough to make a bit of steam when you run the wet rag over it. sorta like a cheap mans shrinking disc.
make sure to clean the iron off well before sneaking it back into the house, lol.

[8man]

Thanks guys.

Raven, I can't get to the back side to do any dolly work. I will see if I can sneak the iron out and try that, as it makes sense.

[Tempest67]

Nice job on the patch.

Time to try Fitzee's 'Cut and Butt'


Keep it going

[8man]

Tempest, I've watched Fitzee for years. I actually used the cut and butt on the top right side. It got too tight after I tacked it in and I had to cut a slit to let me move it around a little.

[Tempest67]

I think Fitzee is amazing and a great teacher.

Did you see his recent one when he made the door handle piece for Crusty?


Keep up the great work, I enjoy following along

[8man]

Didn't see it yet. I will.

Thanks.

[Tempest67]

Here it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83Ct6DfMebc&t=132s

[8man]

Well, I have not been busy, but I'm getting back to it. I got the frame finished up as much as I can until the engine (which is still not all together) and tranny (which I don't have yet) are ready to set on the frame and fit the motor mounts and transmission mounts, but here it is for now.

IMG_1903 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The front cross member is about 7" off the ground. I just hope that's enough. I'm told it is, but it looks low to me. It is supposed to be about 3" lower than stock, but I don't know.

Also, most of the other parts are in epoxy primer at this point.

IMG_1904 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I have started on the cab, welding in plugs in the firewall and toe board where I don't need holes.

IMG_1905 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Soon, I hope to start fitting some other stuff into the cab, like a vent from a Camaro that I think will fit just below the radio, with a little modification to the plastic part of the vent. We'll see....

[dsraven]

what is your engine and trans choice? just curious. the MII front end rack input can be difficult to acess for the steering column without some goofy u joint scenarios. I installed an LS engine with auto trans and used camaro engine mounts and exh manifolds on a TF frame I did with MII. then I set the frame at the rake angle intended, blocked it there and set the driveline in on blocks and centered in the frame. then went about connecting the dots from the engine mounts to the frame. i used an old piece of pvc pipe I had to mock up a strg column shaft and made up some brackets that fit from the engine to the frame. since the frame was boxed I welded some stout flat bar to the frame plates so they were 90 deg to the frame and then the engime mount brackets bolted on to those flat bar plates. that way the brackets would come out with the engine or be removeable so no interference with the strg column shaft, which went through those intermediate engine mount plates.

[8man]

Raven, I'm going with a 5.3 LS and a 4L60E transmission. The front-end kit came from TCI, and I expect that you are right on the steering shaft.

Thanks for the tip on the PVC.

[dsraven]

if you want to have some built in clearance around your steering shaft you can use a bogger diameter pipe and use a bushing on the end to step it down so it fits over the steering rack input shaft.
I like to place the engine as low as possible and as far back as possible. I ended up bending up a new p/s rack pressure tube, that goes horizontally across the rack, so it swept down some first and allowed the vibration damper just a little more room. I also cut the firewall and fabbed up a new one from 16ga cold rolled sheet. this allowed the engine to fit back a little further and also cleaned up all the holes etc. if you plan to do anything like that make sure to cross brace the cab first so nothing moves.

[8man]

Thanks Raven. I'm filling some holes in the firewall now, but I don't know where the engine will sit yet, so I may have to re-do some firewall work in the future.

[dsraven]

if using the LS you can probably use an oil pan, oil pump pickup tube, dipstick tube and dipstick and oil pan baffle from a camaro as they are quite a bit shorter. some places sell that set up as a kit. the exhaust manifolds also fir between the frame rails on a TF. it won't hang down lower than the MII crossmember.

[8man]

Thanks Raven.