Hi

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Kalums

There was some serious finger crossing and praying. My first suggestion, grade 8 bolt to hold on the dipstick is a no go, the head is too "tall", go with a grade 5. Second suggestion make sure you put rtv on the shaft where it goes into the block AFTER you dry fit it a few times and before you secure the manifolds and dipstick in place. Also you have to kinda do both at the same time(bolting down the dipstick and putting in a few of the manifold bolts) ... It is a hassle but it works. And finally good luck.

Good to know about the RTV on the Dipstick/Engine connection. Last time I had my headers off, the Dipstick was not connected right. [It was held onto a plugwire separator with baling wire.]
Since the Starter on the 350 in my '71 Jimmy burned out after only 16 years, and I have to pull the Passenger Side header to get at it, It's time to do the Dipstick right. On my 1998 crate motor, I had the option to mount the Dipstick on either side. I chose Right since its less crowded there, and its on the right on my 292 in the other truck.
And in true Mission Creep style, I'm going to have the headers sandblasted and painted since they're coming off anyway.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Good to know about the RTV on the Dipstick/Engine connection. Last time I had my headers off, the Dipstick was not connected right. [It was held onto a plugwire separator with baling wire.]
Since the Starter on the 350 in my '71 Jimmy burned out after only 16 years, and I have to pull the Passenger Side header to get at it, It's time to do the Dipstick right. On my 1998 crate motor, I had the option to mount the Dipstick on either side. I chose Right since its less crowded there, and its on the right on my 292 in the other truck.
And in true Mission Creep style, I'm going to have the headers sandblasted and painted since they're coming off anyway.

Sounds like you got a handle on it👍 good luck.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Kalums

There was some serious finger crossing and praying. My first suggestion, grade 8 bolt to hold on the dipstick is a no go, the head is too "tall", go with a grade 5. Second suggestion make sure you put rtv on the shaft where it goes into the block AFTER you dry fit it a few times and before you secure the manifolds and dipstick in place. Also you have to kinda do both at the same time(bolting down the dipstick and putting in a few of the manifold bolts) ... It is a hassle but it works. And finally good luck.

Thank you. Sounds like a challenging task!

[Kalums]

Ok guys... Anyone know of a working upper radiator hose? And Water neck? The original hose is about 4 inches too short and rubs on the side of the CS144 ( A CS144 off a 2000 Escalde works with 5/16 2-3/4,long grade 8 bolt in the passenger side bolt hole fits perfectly. Might want to get a 1 inch longer serpentine too). The original water neck points directly at the Alternator and the replacement I bought points to the driver's side, up at a135 degree angle and forward about 10 degrees so if I had an original hose(Dayco 70935) that was about 4 inches longer it would work fine... Any suggestions are appreciated. I'm currently looking at Napa hoses 7575 or 7595.

[Kalums]

So I haven't fallen off a cliff yet, still kicking. All I've been doing lately is a TON of rewiring. This new CS144 is a lot more amperage so... I've had to upgrade about 70% of the wires in the stock "loom". It is very tedious, no real picture taking of soldering/splicing/heatshrinking. I would love to know what I'm supposed to do with the "F" wire on this alternator plug though, I'd hate to burn up a new alternator.

Also I will update when I remember to, on the part number for the upper radiator hose, found one at NAPA that fit perfectly with my new water neck.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Kalums

So I haven't fallen off a cliff yet, still kicking. All I've been doing lately is a TON of rewiring. This new CS144 is a lot more amperage so... I've had to upgrade about 70% of the wires in the stock "loom". It is very tedious, no real picture taking of soldering/splicing/heatshrinking. I would love to know what I'm supposed to do with the "F" wire on this alternator plug though, I'd hate to burn up a new alternator.

Also I will update when I remember to, on the part number for the upper radiator hose, found one at NAPA that fit perfectly with my new water neck.

https://www.gtoforum.com/threads/cs1...wiring.144094/

The first post shows what wires go where.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

https://www.gtoforum.com/threads/cs1...wiring.144094/

The first post shows what wires go where.

So according to that forum/post, if I don't have a light I use "L" and wire and a resistor to my brown wire from the fuse box (used to go to the external regulator) and since I never had a "no charge" light "F" is unused and should be capped off... Correct?

And thank you for finding that I've been searching for almost a week and didn't find much at all about the "F" wire and nothing definitive. So thank you X a million. 👍

[Kalums]

So during all this "poking around" under my hood... I noticed something odd, the transmission lines for my TH350 seem to be wrong, or at least the trans cooler is hooked up backwards? So my understanding is upper line on the transmission goes to the upper hole on radiator and lower goes to lower ( upper line is "in" to the transmission and lower is out?) ... Yes? Well mine has the upper line going to the upper hole on the radiator, but the lower line is cut and hose spliced in for a trans-cooler that has, at some point, single handedly guaranteed the front underside of this truck to never rust... Then the cooler is: line from trans to top of cooler and bottom of cooler to bottom of radiator... That doesn't seem correct to me... Again not sure that is supposed to go that way *scratches head*

Also when putting in a brake controller (Tekonsha prodigy p2) the red wire goes to which wire on my brake switch? I've got white, grey, orange w/white strip I believe

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I don't think that it makes a lot of difference, though I've seen claims that the trans warms up faster because the coolant is warming the fluid first, before going to the extra cooler in cold weather. I'm not convinced of that. The trans and engine would be coming up to temp in a somewhat parallel time frame. Maybe someone with a factory trans cooler in addition to the radiator intercooler can chime in.

So I actually ended up talking to a local transmission shop and the guy whips out a Hayden manual that said it is supposed to be hooked up to the return line "so the cooling effect" is essentially doubled... So pressurised side (out from trans-bottom hard line) goes into the radiator( unless you bypass radiator) then tap the top line ( return line, out of the top radiator) to the bottom of external cooler, then top of external cooler to return line - top line in the transmission. Ended up getting a new 9x13" cooler( way more than I probably need but it was $40 because the package had water damage, mine had a crack in the neck of the bottom hose when he pressurised it. But take this all with a grain of salt because I live in the desert... Where "cold" is NOT a thing, LOL.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Kalums

So I actually ended up talking to a local transmission shop and the guy whips out a Hayden manual that said it is supposed to be hooked up to the return line "so the cooling effect" is essentially doubled... So pressurised side (out from trans-bottom hard line) goes into the radiator( unless you bypass radiator) then tap the top line ( return line, out of the top radiator) to the bottom of external cooler, then top of external cooler to return line - top line in the transmission. Ended up getting a new 9x13" cooler( way more than I probably need but it was $40 because the package had water damage, mine had a crack in the neck of the bottom hose when he pressurised it. But take this all with a grain of salt because I live in the desert... Where "cold" is NOT a thing, LOL.

Funny. You copied that not long before I deleted it, because I wasn't too sure of what I said.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Funny. You copied that not long before I deleted it, because I wasn't too sure of what I said.

*laughs* sorry...

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Kalums

*laughs* sorry...

Eh, no worries. If I'm wrong, I'll own up to it.

[Kalums]

I know I haven't updated in a few...but for some reason i can not for the life of me get the website to display/work properly on my phone...*shrugs*

so here is the update: I got the voltage meter out of an 86 (not sure i mentioned that before) and got it wired in and the cluster back in...only to figure out i have to have it out to pull the dash pad *ugh* wired in a set of courtesy lights, checked the new wiring/ alternator ( 13.6V with all the lights on and 14.6V with no lights on) put in the 3 point seat belts (had to put longer 1/4" thick "L" brackets in for the center 2 belt portions (short ones were too short, long ones were WAY too long... literally had the belt buckle right under my navel) took off the heater box and JB welded all the holes and cracks, put in the new heater core (gonna replace with a vintage air system when I can afford it) ordered the replacement speedometer cable adapter from "T.K. 4x4"... no one sells/makes the seal anymore for the original*cries a little inside* Other than that I'm waiting on my radiator to get back from being cleaned and re-soldered.
I think I'm going to bypass the radiator in favor of my new external trans cooler, I was thinking about adding a Trans temp sensor and filter... does anyone have thoughts? I was looking at the Derale filter and temp "all in one" part # 13901

[Steeveedee]

Use this for your new link. Some things have changed.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Use this for your new link. Some things have changed.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/

You rock that works way better thank you

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Kalums

You rock that works way better thank you

Thanks, I was getting carded for days before I discovered this. The site changed back to https from http, if I understand correctly. I found it out in general discussion.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Thanks, I was getting carded for days before I discovered this. The site changed back to https from http, if I understand correctly. I found it out in general discussion.

Good to know and thank you again, I updated my bookmarks. 👍

[Kalums]

Ok... I'm having what seems like a pretty large problem... I am at the point where I'm priming the engine with a drill and a priming tool, I get oil from all 8 push rods on the driver's side head... But only 1 (sporadically) on the passenger side. I'm getting great consist oil pressure (4th line) on the dash gauge... But virtually no oil on the passenger side head. I talked to a reputable engine builder I know near by (regularly builds engines for Barrett-Jackson vehicles) , his explanation was I may have a really garbage priming tool with out the correct lower "passage blocking" part for my engine... But it is there and similar, albeit not exactly the same as the distributor. Or I blew out the galley plug in the back of the engine... He said he could take a look at it for me in about a month or two (he is currently working on a paying customers Cadillac 500 with a twin screw Whipple.... *big eyes*!!) So does anyone have any way for me to know? My brain tells me if I blew out the galley plug there would be oil everywhere... This really has me scratching my head and aggravated.

[LockDoc]

-
I would get some oil deflecting clips for the rockers, squirt some oil on the rockers and push rods on that side, Put the distributor in it and start it up. If you have good oil pressure on the gauge and all of the bearings were pre-lubed the cam and lower end shouldn't be a problem. That is just what I would do. Your mileage may vary....

[Steeveedee]

It sometimes takes awhile for the oil to get everywhere when it has to travel through tight bearing tolerances. It'll follow the path of least resistance first. Try turning the crankshaft in 1/4 turn increments and priming. You may see more oil coming up the "dry" pushrods.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

It sometimes takes awhile for the oil to get everywhere when it has to travel through tight bearing tolerances. It'll follow the path of least resistance first. Try turning the crankshaft in 1/4 turn increments and priming. You may see more oil coming up the "dry" pushrods.

I got a set of oil deflector clips and I will try using both methods. The clips were cheap enough and available same day from"the jungle" site. Thank you guys for the suggestions... Ps I despise all the fear mongering information on the internet... But I guess fear sells. Every thing I found on the "Web" had me thinking I was completely screwed... But you guys here are WAY more helpful. Thx again.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
I would get some oil deflecting clips for the rockers, squirt some oil on the rockers and push rods on that side, Put the distributor in it and start it up. If you have good oil pressure on the gauge and all of the bearings were pre-lubed the cam and lower end shouldn't be a problem. That is just what I would do. Your mileage may vary....

Bought some this morning off "the jungle"... Arrived about 20 mins ago. Time to get elbow deep. 👍

[Kalums]

Ok guys, what coolant in my new engine/radiator/ heater core? Needs to be aluminium safe... Old green stuff? Newer blue? I've read up on it and am still pretty confused. I'm pretty sure the green stuff is compatible but... It is pretty toxic and I have kids + animals around consistently/constantly. Keep in mind I've never run anything in it yet so.. My understanding is I could potentially use anything... *shrugs* but I don't know honestly. It currently has water in it to check for leaks. Also I've never "burped" a cooling system before... Advise would be appreciated.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

It sometimes takes awhile for the oil to get everywhere when it has to travel through tight bearing tolerances. It'll follow the path of least resistance first. Try turning the crankshaft in 1/4 turn increments and priming. You may see more oil coming up the "dry" pushrods.

Was going to post something suggesting the same thing. Path I would take first as well.

[Kalums]

Attention ALL!! HEAR YE, HEAR YE.... it's a runner *wide eyes* for about a 45 seconds to a minute, Thank you all for the tons of help(I'm not leaving... Lol) it is just as you guys said just had to rotate it, it started oiling the passenger side head. Man o man... I've never been right next to a header only engine running, no wonder "car/truck people" are half deaf...