"Project Orangepeel" 52 A.D

[reaper71]

Haha, I don't have a teen anymorebut that would work

[reaper71]

I haven't posted in awhile thought I'd put some shots up.

I did upgrade the door panels with a 50's Era material and suede on the inserts.

Mark.

[8man]

The door panels look good.

[olcarguy]

Gotta love it.....Sweet

[OutlawDrifter]

Good job on the door panels!

[reaper71]

Thanks Guys!



Mark

[youngrodder]

Great job on the door panel. Very unique design.

Marc

[Tempest67]

what a great looking truck

nice upgrade on the door panels too


Thanks for sharing

[lower50's]

Defiantly sets it off now.

[reaper71]

Thank you everyone!

The door design was put together by Erin Ruddy @ Ruddymade
he lives here in town and we planned it out when the truck was first put together. (all black then)


Mark.

[Rickysnickers]

Honestly speaking, I am not a fan of the patina look. However, this truck is awesome!

[reaper71]

Thanks.


Yeah patina is not everyone's cup of tee.
This a bit of survivor and custom.


Mark

[SARBlade]

Originally Posted by reaper71

quick shot of the notch i used a piece of 4" tube..next pic is of it all welded and boxed..


Mark...

Hi, I know this has been awhile since you built your truck, but I see you’re still messing with it, great build by the way! I am starting a project myself on a ‘56, I have the same triangulated 4 link set up that I’m putting into mine. I have a question regarding your install if you’d mine sharing some info. I have a 10 bolt from a Camaro rear end going in, the large cast pumpkin, has issues, can’t weld to it, and it takes up room. I want to do the same direction of angles you used but welding the upper links as close to the pumpkin, and going forward only gives me about 22 degrees of opening vice the 25 I am looking for. Yours appears like the angle is closer to 30 degrees. Also, your uppers appear to point upwards vice inclining down toward the IC of the truck to prevent too much pinion angle movement. Lastly, your bottom bars look parallel with the ground, and are mounted on the inside of your frame. What is the distance in between your frame rails? Mine is 41.5”, this makes it really difficult for me to mount my lowers on the inside, I am thinking directly under the frame rail. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[reaper71]

Thanks for checking out my build!

As far as the upper bars go the angle in or out isnt as crucial as long as they are parrallel to the lowers.
your 22 degrees would be fine.

Your lower bars... id try to really get them inside if possable depending how low its going to be.

If you mount under the frame they could drag.

When you start to set it up get your pinion angle set @3 degree up and tack a piece of 1x1 tube to frame and top of rear end tube to hold it in place. now it will make getting the 4 bar mocked up easier.

hope this helps
Mark

[SARBlade]

Thanks Reaper, I will do that, the welder series instructions aren’t that complete, but they do show that there is convergence of the upper and lower somewhere near engine. If they’re parallel, the pinion angle doesn’t change when diff goes up and down. With the two uppers at angles, in theory, they’re arc of travel would keep the diff cantered in the frame, left and right, and would only allow travel up and down depending on how stiff the bushings are. The shorter they are, the tighter the radius, and not much travel. Anyway, I’ll follow your suggestions and build. Thanks for the advise, and I won’t put the lower underneath, you’re right, it would interfere with ground lol

[lower50's]

Sorry to hijack Mark
SARBlade Here is a web sight I used to figure out a 4 link. It talks about a 4x4 but the concept is the same. It is quite forgiving if you have interference in places.
https://www.crawlpedia.com/4_link_suspension.htm

[SARBlade]

Thanks L50!

[joedoh]

i love your truck mark!

[reaper71]

Thanks Guys