1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

One thing to keep in mind with the Oasis is the 180ish-200A draw for the lighter duty unit. If you are not mounting it close to the batteries the voltage drop alone will shorten the motor life dramatically. That's the reason I went with an Extreme Outback compresssor. 100% duty cycle and a whole lot less amp draw. Yes, it puts out less air too, but I'm not running air tools on a regular basis off of my truck so that's not a major concern.



Do you have room for a York?? Hell, Autoworld probably has a bolt-on bracket for it. Bang for the buck, it can't be beat. I did not have room or I'd have one on my truck. I was even trying to engineer a pto driven setup that used a York compressor to get it out of the engine compartment, but the time came that I needed OBA and I wasn't far enough along in the engineering process to make it a feasible option so I went electric. A York with a tank on it would allow you to get rid of your shop compressor. LOL.

I dont need a big compressor, initial fill will be my biggest issue. I dont plan on draining the tanks everytime I use the horns or suspension dump. Plus thats money away from my power mods.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

One thing to keep in mind with the Oasis is the 180ish-200A draw for the lighter duty unit. If you are not mounting it close to the batteries the voltage drop alone will shorten the motor life dramatically. That's the reason I went with an Extreme Outback compresssor. 100% duty cycle and a whole lot less amp draw. Yes, it puts out less air too, but I'm not running air tools on a regular basis off of my truck so that's not a major concern.

yeah, the amp draw is big. but, i have a nice spot saved on the truck just on the opposite side of the framerail for the compressor. i can get it mounted with maybe 18" of cable to the motor. i also have 2 batteries, so i had thought about running the 24v version and just isolating it from the rest of the 12v stuff.

outback has a smaller belt driven that is a possibility though. not so bulky as a york. i may look into that

[watahyahknow]

maibe you can do the monster cable setup that most of the audio lunatics use along with a good relay that way the amperage dont get as high , im not sure but using a (good namebrand ) capacitator from the audio setup might help too flattening the startup peakcurrent of the compressor
there accuswitches that are being used in campers mostly that helps charging a second battery on a single altenator and prevents drawing current from the starterbattery to power the interiour lighting when camping so the engine will still start when the other battery is death

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

I have a IH 466 belt driven 2 piston tumor you could bolt to the side...

I can keep an eye out for one (any) if you guys keep an eye out for a 4BT saginaw pump for me.

PS pump, or hyd. pump?

[Dieselwrencher]

Oh yeah, for $1500 I'll buy an Ingersoll Rand for the corner of the shop.

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

PS pump, or hyd. pump?

Power steering pump. I want to loose the Vacuum pump on my brothers truck all together. I could use the hydraulic pump, but that means custom lines. We are doing a remote reservoir either way.

are you looking for a particular air pump? 2 cyl? 1 cyl?

Edit: I need to look and see what compressor is mounted in our service truck. It is tiny and POWERFULL.

[Dieselwrencher]

I may know a guy that might have a saginaw ps pump. I'll call him and see.................

[ryanroo]

Im looking at for a 1 cyl. im not sure ill have room for the BMF

[jbclassix]

I just went all the way back to page 5 to see what you did to get your D80 mounted... the first time. And I am asking both you and Ryanroo this question. If you hypothetically mounted your axles on leaves(not the Ryanroo AirRide), would you build custom mounts to move the springs out further, or would you stick with just moving the spring pads in?

[ryanroo]

Spring pads in. moving the mounts out would put a lot of leverage on the frame and the mount. wider is better, but to do the mounts wider would be way to much work for not uch benefit.

[Dieselwrencher]

On mine, I just cut off the cast mounts, and got some axle perches from DIY4X. I happen to have my rear suspension for sale if you're interested. My DIY4X shackle flip, new springs, D80 spring perches, u-bolts, cast upper retaining plate, D80 lower mount, and front spring hangers. I'd seperate the stuff for sure. If I keep it around, it'll mean I need to put them on something.

[ryanroo]

markets gonna be flooded! i have a custom set of plates U bolts that point up, ballistic pads ground for 4" tubes,some custom ass shackle hangers, and stock front hangers for sale...

[Dieselwrencher]

[Dieselwrencher]

We finished up the 02 Dodge job this week, and I've gotten started on my GN and frame. I got the cross members welded in, and boxed in between them. Here are some smokey shots.....






Today I trimmed down the center hitch and notched my front cross member so the center section would fit in there. I sat it in the frame and low and behold the release handle hits the frame. So tomorrow, I'll notch the frame, install a tube to give clearance, and then weld in my lower supports and weld the center plate in.

Also, my brother took the center section to work to sand blast it so it doesn't retain it's dredger look.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Also, my brother took the center section to work to sand blast it so it doesn't retain it's dredger look.

Sweet baby jesus thank you!

that welder looks suspiciously not grey?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Sweet baby jesus thank you!

that welder looks suspiciously not grey?

Just for you dude! And, I don't want to get the other one dirty yet.

[MrBeast]

Damn what are you going to be pulling with that hitch? The USS Missouri?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

Damn what are you going to be pulling with that hitch? The USS Missouri?

Well yeah! I've got to do in real life what Toyota and Chevy do in photoshop. Here space shuttle........ I bet I could throw some rubber on the bottom side of it and get her haulin....

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Well yeah! I've got to do in real life what Toyota and Chevy do in photoshop. Here space shuttle........ I bet I could throw some rubber on the bottom side of it and get her haulin....

Ha ha! that you could.

[watahyahknow]

i think youre underdoing it with the hitch

[Dieselwrencher]

That's a 5th wheel, not a gooseneck. Just sayin.

[Dieselwrencher]

Well today I added some cross members to support some more weight under the center section. I then welded them in, and fit the center section to fit. Next, I cut my hitch release pin and used a die grinder to clearance the housing to allow the release pin to go up farther. I welded the handle back on, and walla! I have clearance over the frame rail and no need to cut and notch the frame rail. Then I placed the center section in and welded it up.









I then cut a piece to replace the rear cross member. I'll replace the last 2 stock cross members, and then start boxing the frame.

[MrBeast]

So how far did the suspension drop stuffing all that pig iron in it? xD

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

So how far did the suspension drop stuffing all that pig iron in it? xD

I don't know yet. I've got it blocked in the level position. But, it won't matter because the mammoth air bags will hold it up just fine.

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I don't know yet. I've got it blocked in the level position. But, it won't matter because the mammoth air bags will hold it up just fine.

On my dually that is an up and coming mod, that thing is going to get full air ride all the way around with a ride height controller, I want it to ride smooth as if it were riding on rails.