Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

It's far easier to release the tapered joint at the other end of the pitman arm with a pickle fork.

Says the man who hasn't faced the wroth of the stupid nut that you have to git off first!!! Man not only was it one size bigger than the largest wrench I own, but not even tapping the tool with a sledge could loosen it up... stubborn little fella!

[Chaplain]

Originally Posted by greg64

Wait a minute on the steering box. It's far easier to release the tapered joint at the other end of the pitman arm with a pickle fork. Unless, of course, you're looking to replace the pitman arm.

The way to get the pitman arm off is with a puller. You apply a fair bit of tension with the puller, and the tap the pitman arm from the side with a hammer. The puller alone won't do it, at least in my experience.

True dat... I removed mine last Sunday.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

True dat... I removed mine last Sunday.

Hey man who's side are you on? LOL us rookies must stick together, don't let pros tell ya what to do! jk

[Chaplain]

Originally Posted by Titomars

Yeah I hear ya. I hate those "rag" joints. Cut from old tire carcasses. LOL

Steering dampener?

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Steering dampener?

Ya, those rag joints cut down on vibration. And they aren't the "final word" because there are two steel pins in slots so that if the rag joint ever rotted out and was too weak, you wouldn't lose your steering.

[68Timber]

I'm guessing you've seen this, but just in case you haven't Tx Firefighter did a great how-to on fixing a leaky steering box here: LINK.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Says the man who hasn't faced the wroth of the stupid nut that you have to git off first!!! Man not only was it one size bigger than the largest wrench I own, but not even tapping the tool with a sledge could loosen it up... stubborn little fella!

Okay, I may have an unfair advantage there. I have impact sockets big enough for all these nuts, and the air impact wrench to drive them.

I did once get the pitman arm nut off with a pipe wrench with a length of pipe over the handle. I think the tighten torque is something like 160 ft-lbs, so you know it'll be tougher still to get it off.

[Gregski]

ok, so let's see that hunk of junk out in the open

FYI the only thing heavier than this steering box on the truck so far be the Muncie gear box, hee hee

[Gregski]

then I spent the next two hours transferring the dirt, grime, grease, and rust off of the steering box and onto myself

she aint perfect, but definitely more better...

I would clean her some more [big lie] but I have to go pick up the new(er) pump from CarQuest

[Titomars]

the 3 lb sledge method only works if the box is still mounted to the frame. I highly doubt the arm will give it up on the floor. Just an observation but it looks like the nut is still on and tight. the nut has to be off or damn near off. The fun begins trying to hold that heavy box up and start a bolt or two.

[Gregski]

what gets me is how this massive 3 ton steering box connects to the steering shaft, via a rubber disc the size of your grandmas coffee table coasters, exactly three of them stacked together???

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

what gets me is how this massive 3 ton steering box connects to the steering shaft, via a rubber disc the size of your grandmas coffee table coasters, exactly three of them stacked together???

Yeah I hear ya. I hate those "rag" joints. Cut from old tire carcasses. LOL

[enaberif]

Just be glad you don't have to remove the actual steering arm. Those tapered cone washers are hell!

[Chaplain]

I worried about how to get my new gear box lined up with the pitman arm and the steering wheel/column.

[Gregski]

so picked up my $40 dollar power steering pump for $80 bucks from Carquest, LOL maybe the extra $40 bucks is for the pink blanket it comes with, hee hee

for $80 bucks you think they could afford to put a picture of the actual contents on the box instead of some generic pump photo

I'm pretty sure this is no better than what I got from OReilly's but we'll see, I think some of these parts come from the same source, that's why the resellers rebrand them as their own, Autozone, O'Reillys, NAPA, Carquest, PepBoys

I would prefer to see the manufacturers logo on the box, but then we could compare apples to apples price wise, and the resellers don't want that

[end of rant]

[Gregski]

so started wire wheelin the frame rail and a bit under the cab in preparation for POR15, not fun, ended up removing the front bumper, again for better access

tomorrow I should paint it black with POR15 to match the other side

[JacobSchni]

by the way por 15 doesnt stick as well to bare metal compared to to rusted. from what ive seen, just a quick one over to remove loose rust will work best.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by JacobSchni

by the way por 15 doesnt stick as well to bare metal compared to to rusted. from what ive seen, just a quick one over to remove loose rust will work best.

I'd agree with this. I've had por-15 peel off when used on shiny steel. That's when I started using the Metal Ready spray (has some new name now) first, and that cured the problem.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

I'd agree with this. I've had por-15 peel off when used on shiny steel. That's when I started using the Metal Ready spray (has some new name now) first, and that cured the problem.

The Greg is a proud owner of Metal Ready (pronounce expensive made up of a tiny bit of Phosphoric acid diluted with a lot of water and a blue urinal biscuit thrown in for color, hee hee) but hey if that's what it takes, The Greg will git er done

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by JacobSchni

by the way por 15 doesnt stick as well to bare metal compared to to rusted. from what ive seen, just a quick one over to remove loose rust will work best.

That is because POR15 like a lot of other products are a "rust encapsulator". If you take your frame down to bare metal then use tremclad paint instead.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by JacobSchni

by the way por 15 doesnt stick as well to bare metal compared to to rusted. from what ive seen, just a quick one over to remove loose rust will work best.

I think you are right, I am learning that too, needless to say I am a bit of a slow learner, lol, that and I have a hard time accepting that I am painting over rust, but I think I am getting over it as removing it is difficult

[cnorth]

My compliments on your progress as usual and your meticulous approach is a inspiration to all of us, and i wish i had the knowledge to help you with some of your problems but all i have is a tip for you.

I have a Portable Abrasive Blaster Kit it's old and from sears but has saved me a ton of time when cleaning up parts I've seen them at harbor freight for $40 the trick is to capture the media as you use it and just reuse it.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by cnorth

My compliments on your progress as usual and your meticulous approach is a inspiration to all of us...

Thank you very much I appreciate that

[Gregski]

welcome to another Charge of the Light [truck] Brigade

another day, another wire wheel, I swear one can easily spend as much on these wire wheels (almost $20 a pop) as the purchase of some of our "project" trucks, if I keep visiting Depot Home (as my mum says) like this I may as well suggest they open up a drive through

needless (pun) to say one must replace these every 3 months or 3,000 miles, LOL

(one of these on the LEFT is the used one, can you guess which one that is?)

[Gregski]

so we managed to get some POR15 black paint on the frame rail

UPDATE: Five years later, the POR15 paint is pealing off in huge chunks the size of 3x5 cards, do not recommend this product at all!