1967 Chevy CST aka "the loud truck"

[67chevy1series]

Haha that's true but but but I was just helping my mom with some "rotor tillering" ha!

[67chevy1series]

Parts came in! Got my rear disc brake tab kit, shock support brackets and my drop spindles! I'm waiting on new bearings and rotors before I install the spindles... :/ so I decided I'll just install the shock brackets and the rear brake hose tab kit. So I looked over the parts and everything was there for the shock brackets and spindles but the rear brake tab kit didn't come with the clips... So I called cpp and they were busy, but they took my name and number to call me back about it, they've always done me right before so I'm not to worried. So instead I just installed the shock brackets.. Went very smooth! And it feels and looks pretty nice id say. So I'll post some pics here in a bit

[67chevy1series]

well i started to install the hose clamp kit i figured im not going to drive the truck within the next week so if i get the little brackets on the lines already then its no big deal, and then when the clips come in the mail ill just put the clips on and be done. well now im having a pretty hard time bleeding the rear brakes! i was under the truck for about 50 minutes to an hour and a couple times there werent any bubbles but i always wait til it doesnt have any bubbles for three more "bleeds" just to be sure.. well the third bleed after no bubbles it starts poor'n bubbles out again and it did that the hole time. i always made sure there was fluid in the master cylinder as to not make anymore air go in the lines and i put the master cylinder cap back on (could that be the problem?) and then went back to bleeding i did the RR then LR and then back and forth etc.. the only lines i undid where the hard line to hose on both rear calipers... so any help on this or advice or tricks wold be gladly appreciated!

[67chevy1series]

and as for your pictures...

[67chevy1series]

and heres the shock bracket install passenger side

[Ol Blue K20]

I always use an old jar and vacuum line to bleed brakes. Put a little fluid in the jar, hook the vacuum line on the bleeder put the other end of vac tube in the fluid in the jar. Open the bleeder and pump the pedal. Make sure the vac line stays covered with fluid

[67chevy1series]

Ok well now that makes me feel bad... That's exactly what I did! And it's worked in the past... Just not now. I've also done some gravity bleeding.. Got a lot of air out but that's the thing there absolutely cannot be that much air in them lines so I figured the only thing I did was disconnect those two lines so I figure the problem is in there. So I just cut the flare off of the drivers side lenses and re-flared it about to do the passenger side now. I'm gonna pull an all nighter and get it done.

[mcbassin]

Nice work on the shock brackets. I wish I could help you on the brake bleeding.

[Ol Blue K20]

I agree has to be sucking air from somewhere. ..

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice work on the shock brackets. I wish I could help you on the brake bleeding.

Thanks mike, and I wish you could to... There really kickin my butt this time.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I agree has to be sucking air from somewhere. ..

Well I've went through all the connections again and there all still tight :/ I'm really at the end of my witts here... I keep bleeding them and there starting not to have as much air, a couple times there was no air that came out, so I'm making progress but at the same time I don't really have a second person here to help with the bleeding, I've only got my mom and my 2 sisters lol some times I wish I could have another one of me that would dedicate all of his time until the job is done haha. Anyways I'll find a way I always do, not going to let a simple c10 get me!

[67chevy1series]

Ohhhhhh yeah I forgot... The reason why I want the brakes bled so bad is so I can start on this...... I splurged today ...... All new national bearings and national seals with new rotors! I've got the spindles painted and drying...

[jbclassix]

Rick, where is your master cylinder from? If it's vintage, rebuild it. If it came from a parts store, go get another one. I have had zero luck finding a quality rebuild over the last few years. I have had the same problem on EVERY job. I refuse to buy anything but OEM NEW.

[slick copper]

Hey Rick! Sorry about the trouble with the brake bleeding. Wanted to let you know I have been keeping up with the build still. I've been lookin at doing cpp brakes and spindles too. Those will allow you to keep your stock wheels right?

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Rick, where is your master cylinder from? If it's vintage, rebuild it. If it came from a parts store, go get another one. I have had zero luck finding a quality rebuild over the last few years. I have had the same problem on EVERY job. I refuse to buy anything but OEM NEW.

I put a new one on roughly a year or maybe 2 ago? but ill have to check into that... i did find the rubber cracked and part of it hanging off on the rear brake hose that goes from the frame to the axle.. so i was thinking about replacing that hose.... either way my fingers are rubbed raw from all the brake line work ive been doing to try and get this thing to release all the air.... ive had it with them for today which is why i decided to take a brake on them (haha see what i did there) which comes into play later...

Originally Posted by slick copper

Hey Rick! Sorry about the trouble with the brake bleeding. Wanted to let you know I have been keeping up with the build still. I've been lookin at doing cpp brakes and spindles too. Those will allow you to keep your stock wheels right?

hey buddy! about the cpp spindles and everything, if i was told correctly you cant run a 15x8 rim without clearencing the lower A-Arm. but i think 15x6 should be ok. luckilty what i didnt realize when i went to th GM 16'' steel rims is that i wont have to worry about the A-Arm at all i can leave my lower A-Arms alone, however i did find that the bottom of my brake sheilds are touching/superclose to my lower A-Arms, so i went ahead and trimed the bottom by 3/8's of an inch just to be safe


well you probably already know if you follow my instagram that ive begun the install for the drop spindles... ive got the passenger side installed but now im going to have to work some magic since the drivers side lower ball joint is spinning with the nut.. and as luck would have it i dont have an air compressor to power my impact... any ideas would be appreciated lol pics will soon to follow!

[67chevy1series]

well picture time! i have both spindles installed, and both rotors. I have all the nuts and bolts all tight again all the cotter pins are back in but the drivers side spindle nut... as i was taking the drivers side spindle nut off i didnt realize that there was some burrs sticking up from the edge of the threads and the key way in the spindle pin... long story short that nut is toast, so tomorrow im going to go get another one and then finish the drivers side. so for now i just put the wheels back on and lowered the truck down, but the drivers side is on blocks until i get the new nut on... ANYWAYS pictures so the only modification was to trim the bottom of the brake sheilds. (in the picture it looks like its touching but its not..)

[67chevy1series]

more pictures.. i did a mock up and turned the wheel and steered left then right and there were no issues so that was great! i decided that the spindles needed some ... "zazz" so i painted the "CPP" letters red on the front and back side of both spindles, figured it matches the truck..

[67chevy1series]

excuse the mess... tomorrow when i get the truck out of the garage for the first time im going to clean up, already started tonight.. and well the drivers side put up a fight! first was when i started to disassemble.. went to go take the brake sheild off and the lower bolt snapped off in the old spindle.. not to big of a deal but when i go to use those spindles on a different truck thats going to have to be delt with.. then the lower ball joint as i mentioned earlier was being a pain and then now the spindle nut.. so not many pictures were taken of the drivers side. anyways ill post what i did take pictures of.. need to get some stuff for the rear brake lines/hoses and get them bled and then install some drop coils in the rear with some other goodies!

[67chevy1series]

and here's a teaser shot..

[Xeen]

Great progress and everything looks really nice.
I have been meaning to ask about your bedsides, do you plan on pulling the dents instead of just slathering it with filler again like it was?

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks good, did you get the brakes bled.

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Great progress and everything looks really nice.
I have been meaning to ask about your bedsides, do you plan on pulling the dents instead of just slathering it with filler again like it was?

Thanks! And Ultimately I would like to get another 67 short fleet bed with a metal floor. I had my fair share of applying some filler on the bedsides... But dang! I really wish you guys could have seen them before I took all the filler from the previous owner

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looks good, did you get the brakes bled.

Thanks dale! And no... Haven't been able to run to the parts store and get some parts been home alone yesterday and today so nobody to help bleed either

[67chevy1series]

Pulled the truck out of the garage!

[67chevy1series]

more pictures for you guys

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

Ultimately I would like to get another 67 short fleet bed with a metal floor.

If you are like me and are a little light on the bodyworking skills and you live near classic industries you can go down and buy their 1967 repops. I purchased them and they are top notch.
These are 1:1 clones right down to the gauge of the metal, you can tell because they are heavier than the 1968-72 repops by about 20 pounds per side, I highly recommend them and I'm not the only one, everyone that has purchased these has raved about them.
It will cost you right at $1000 for both sides and I know that's a lot of money but it's worth every dime.
Plus this will work out to your advantage because you will have an extra set of short bed bedsides saved back for when you become a pro at bodywork.

[67chevy1series]

Ok so you do understand what one doing! If I can id like these beat up besides for my other project c10 that truck I would like to be kinda ratty but really fast and just an awesome truck....but anyways yeah 1000 is pretty steep for me but maybe in the future I will do those bedsides! Thanks for the tip!