Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[bluex]

I would run the relays. Higher PSI means the pump is working harder, drawing more amps and creating more heat.

I would run the stock wiring to the realy and 10 or better from the bat to the relay and then on to the pump. Just my .04 though, some relays and wiring are not worth your truck burning. Watched a friends ranger burn one time b/c he cheaped out on wire for his amp. I learned right then to use the heaviest gauge wire I could find for big amp items.

[menace121978]

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams

DENNIS!!!! Please chime in here...I hate being the only one who feels like I just read something in some foreign language. I hate electrical.

i'm right there with you buddy... i'm a moron when it comes to relay this and hot switch ground wire that.

if it doesnt work after you plug it in bang on it til it does... all else fails step back and .

speaking of fires... my neighbors 90 square burb burnt to a crisp day before yesterday right in front of the house... bad wiring up to the t/b. it was sad and crazy.

[bigdnew]

that is why i am thinking about using the tank from my blazer and stick with one tank. Less wiring and no switches.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by rongstad

I'm still in the parts gathering stage before I begin my build; I will probably use relays but I dont want them under the bed and especially dont want too many wires runnning all over the place..

Looking at the schematics this morning, the relays can easily go under the dash near the switch. Then I think the wires running to the pumps could be stripped out of the loom and replaced with a larger gauge. Nothing extra to run, so-to-speak, but just replacing the two OEM wires from the switch back.

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams

DENNIS!!!! Please chime in here...I hate being the only one who feels like I just read something in some foreign language. I hate electrical.

Relays are pretty simple really. The two main types:

SPDT Relay: (Single Pole Double Throw Relay) is an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), 1 normally closed terminal (87a), and one normally open terminal (87). When the coil of the relay is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the normally open terminal (87) have continuity.

SPST Relay: (Single Pole Single Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), and one normally open terminal (87). It does not have a normally closed terminal like the SPDT relay, but may be used in place of SPDT relays where terminal 87a is not used.

When energizing the coil of a relay, polarity of the coil does not matter unless there is a diode across the coil. If a diode is not present, you may attach positive voltage to either terminal of the coil and negative voltage to the other, otherwise you must connect positive to the side of the coil that the cathode side (side with stripe) of the diode is connected and negative to side of the coil that the anode side of the diode is connected.

Originally Posted by qu1cks1lver56

A bro lol.
Nice Seinfeld reference.

Love the Sein!

Originally Posted by menace121978

... all else fails step back and .

BTW, you must be to be up that early!!!

Originally Posted by bluex

I would run the relays. Higher PSI means the pump is working harder, drawing more amps and creating more heat.

I would run the stock wiring to the realy and 10 or better from the bat to the relay and then on to the pump.

It is on my to-do list for sure. I love using relays, they are easy to set up, and they take a lot of worry out of certain situations. They are very versatile.

[nlped]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Relays are pretty simple really. The two main types:

SPDT Relay: (Single Pole Double Throw Relay) is an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), 1 normally closed terminal (87a), and one normally open terminal (87). When the coil of the relay is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the normally open terminal (87) have continuity.

SPST Relay: (Single Pole Single Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), and one normally open terminal (87). It does not have a normally closed terminal like the SPDT relay, but may be used in place of SPDT relays where terminal 87a is not used.

When energizing the coil of a relay, polarity of the coil does not matter unless there is a diode across the coil. If a diode is not present, you may attach positive voltage to either terminal of the coil and negative voltage to the other, otherwise you must connect positive to the side of the coil that the cathode side (side with stripe) of the diode is connected and negative to side of the coil that the anode side of the diode is connected.

Show Off

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

You could, but in OEM form, I don't really think they are necessary. However...... I was thinking this afternoon; I wonder if the high psi pumps are drawing more amps -vs- the tbi pumps? It is very possible, but I am still not entirely convinced that is was issue in this case.

But, one could leave the OEM wiring entirely in place, run a power wire from an ignition-on source, and put relays back near the tanks. Then cut the wires that run from the switch to the pumps, use the switch end of the wire to trigger the relay, and the other end to power the pumps as normal.

I don't have the wiring schematics in front of me now since I am at home. But, taking into account how the pump power wires run through the selector valve, it could easily be done and take a great load off of the switch.

The Grand National guys have been volt boosting their fuel pumps for years to make them work better. Basically what you have been talking about. Much larger 10-gauge wire with a direct path to the battery through a relay activated by the stock fuel pump power wire.

In your case you could run 8-gauge wire back to the switching valve area and split it to two 10-gauge wired relays feeding the separate pumps.

Weather-pak style electric fan relays come with 10-gauge wire pigtails and would work great for this.

[menace121978]

had to work... just got off and i'm heading for the bed now

[rongstad]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Looking at the schematics this morning, the relays can easily go under the dash near the switch. Then I think the wires running to the pumps could be stripped out of the loom and replaced with a larger gauge. Nothing extra to run, so-to-speak, but just replacing the two OEM wires from the switch back. It is on my to-do list for sure. I love using relays, they are easy to set up, and they take a lot of worry out of certain situations. They are very versatile.

Thanks Bob, I will add relays and a couple feet of higher guage wire-to the list.

[buckshot305]

Bob, did you ever start on the write-up/FAQ? I understand why if you haven't; it's hard to go back over so many details and organize it after you've finished a project. Their is a wealth of information in your thread, it's just hard to find specific info. I had to go back to page 1 and speed read through, bookmarking things as I went. Also, I must have missed it, but why are you replacing the rubber FI hose with SS? Did it start leaking?

Thanks,
Travis

[Driveway Dreams]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

When energizing the coil of a relay, polarity of the coil does not matter unless there is a diode across the coil. If a diode is not present, you may attach positive voltage to either terminal of the coil and negative voltage to the other, otherwise you must connect positive to the side of the coil that the cathode side (side with stripe) of the diode is connected and negative to side of the coil that the anode side of the diode is connected.

You might as well just said, "Bniuy wihd sjgh dlis sjhui the liyhsd. Ufso ishd si ishi to spaou wire. Then add iuj spsa dhsi uyjso osp."

But give me a car or truck, some tape, a sawzall, a welder, some more tape, my paint gun, some paint. And I will go to town on it.

[camdNsprayd]

Wiring sucks...its a foregien language to me too...lol...i just recently learned what a relays does, but still dont know how to wire one up..lol

[qu1cks1lver56]

Originally Posted by camdNsprayd

Wiring sucks...its a foregien language to me too...lol...i just recently learned what a relays does, but still dont know how to wire one up..lol

lol don't worry, I consider myself to be pretty wiring savvy and I still can't wire a relay up without a diagram.

[79gmc5.3]

Relays are pretty simple really. The two main types:

SPDT Relay: (Single Pole Double Throw Relay) is an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), 1 normally closed terminal (87a), and one normally open terminal (87). When the coil of the relay is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the normally open terminal (87) have continuity.

SPST Relay: (Single Pole Single Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), and one normally open terminal (87). It does not have a normally closed terminal like the SPDT relay, but may be used in place of SPDT relays where terminal 87a is not used.

When energizing the coil of a relay, polarity of the coil does not matter unless there is a diode across the coil. If a diode is not present, you may attach positive voltage to either terminal of the coil and negative voltage to the other, otherwise you must connect positive to the side of the coil that the cathode side (side with stripe) of the diode is connected and negative to side of the coil that the anode side of the diode is connected.

WHAT??????

[djracer]

Originally Posted by camdNsprayd

Wiring sucks...its a foregien language to me too...lol...i just recently learned what a relays does, but still dont know how to wire one up..lol

If you have relay with the little picture on the side it pretty easy to understand. On Most relays 87a and 30 idle together(30 is like the hinge on a lever inside the relay) when the coil sees power on one side and ground on the other then the lever inside the relays flips to make contact to between 87 and 30. Just remember one of the conections to the coil will not be constant it will be some kind of trigger.



If you guys ever have any questions feel free to pm me. I have been doing car stereo since flipper was a minnow.

[fpjr0]

Originally Posted by djracer

I have been doing car stereo since flipper was a minnow.

lol..

I have one question you guys,,, I installed a autometer tach on my 5.3 swap, actually I installed all autometer gauges(used from cl) got a good deal any ways!!!! the speedo,temp,fuel,volts,oil pressure all worked except fort the tach, I know i have it hooked up right ,, I read some at lt1swap that I have to install a 680ohm resistor 1/4 watt , one end to 12V and the other end to wire from pcm to tach, I went to radioshak and only one I found was a 680 ohm 1/2 watt,, any thought on this?

[glock35ipsc]

If it is a tach that lets you select the number of cylinders, select "4" and it should work fine.

[bigdnew]

hey bob the "fred mod" that some performed on the pass motor mount plate, is that necessary.

[glock35ipsc]

Only to run the 5.3's A/C compressor in it's OEM location.

[bigdnew]

oh ok i was planning to get the aftermarket bracket that moves the compressor topside.

[bigdnew]

hey bob one more question. i bought my adaptor brackets from the ebay guy. is my driveshaft going to be ok with that setup.

[fpjr0]

Doesn't have a way to change to 4cyl. But from autometer it should work. I read from lt1 that all 2003 and up he had to use the resistor cuz the signal not being strong enough. I just could find a 1/4 watt resistor

[djracer]

Originally Posted by fpjr0

Doesn't have a way to change to 4cyl. But from autometer it should work. I read from lt1 that all 2003 and up he had to use the resistor cuz the signal not being strong enough. I just could find a 1/4 watt resistor

Which tach do you have? Part number please? Most autometers have loops that you cut to select 4,6 or 8 cylinders.

As far as the resistor I wouldn't think the resistor being 1/2 watt in stead of 1/4 watt would not matter.

[nlped]

Hey Bob, question about your 3.42 rear gear. With the 4L60e, are you happy with that gear? I am about to pull the rear out from under the blazer and put a posi & gears in it (it has a 3.07ish in it now) and since the plan now is to put the 5.3 and the 4l60e in it now, so I thought you would be the man to ask . I'll be running a 28" tall tire.

Thanks,

Ed

[glock35ipsc]

Love it! It's the perfect all around gear in my opinion. On the interstate at 80mph the engine is turning just over 2000 RPM. Right when I want it.

** Edit to add - I'm running a 28" tire too.

[nlped]

Thanks for the quick feedback! I will order them right now then .

Is the a/c done yet