Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[swamp rat]

Even when you got nothing going on you got something going on

[notchbackgta]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

The other dealio is the LS filter/regulator. Some guys mount it in back near the tank to keep the return line short. However, I'm wondering about the pressure drop by the time the fuel gets to the injectors. The regulator isn't electronically controlled and is preset to 60psi. Don't know what psi the injectors need to see from the fuel rails to do their job (even under hard acceleration) but I'm guessing it's a lot less than 60. Seems like if it mattered where the regulator is mounted, someone would have shouted it out.

There is a constant in the stock ECM to account for the fuel pressure drop, over RPM I believe it was, in the systems with "no return". Trucks had a return, so if you're running the truck tune and no return, that needs to be addressed.
The Gen IV and up do it with PWM to the fuel pump, so the pump only runs when needed, or only as much as needed to maintain the pressure

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

There is a constant in the stock ECM to account for the fuel pressure drop, over RPM I believe it was, in the systems with "no return". Trucks had a return, so if you're running the truck tune and no return, that needs to be addressed.
The Gen IV and up do it with PWM to the fuel pump, so the pump only runs when needed, or only as much as needed to maintain the pressure

Thanks for the input! The GM regulator/filter has a return port so I'll plumb it into the tank. Sounds like tune for the LS3 C&C crate motor is Camaro SS or Corvette based so I reckon it will handle the fuel pump as needed.

Still no word from the frame shop, so I've been gathering up parts to complete the swap. The CTS-V oil pan and kit arrived and looks like it will provide plenty of clearance for the cross member. I removed the manifolds, fuel rails and sound cover from the engine. I plan to paint the sound cover and the rail covers to match the truck color.

Speaking of painting... I made the third trip in the last four months to yet another cornea specialist who advised me to STOP doing paint and body work, welding and grinding or anything that would irritate my eyes, especially the right one. The growths over the iris are so severe, the doctors feel it's too risky to remove them surgically. That only leaves the option of trying to maintain the vision I have left. So I'm researching full face respirators with the corrective spectacle kit. I can use it for paint and body, but still not sure what I can do for welding. I know they have supplied air kits for welding helmets so I'll be looking at them also. Pretty sure Speedglas offers a model, but I need something full face to keep the fumes away from the eyes. This wasn't a budget item before, but it is now.

[Hart_Rod]

Did you get the complete C&C kit (motor/tranny/wiring harness/ECM)? If so, the tune should already account for FPR. The stealth pump should provide more than adequate pressure to minimize any variations in the fuel pressure due to the distance of the FPR from the fuel rails. If you were wanting to go with BIG HP, I would recommend installing a return style fuel system with the FPR close to the rails. Let me know if you need any help with the tune, I've played around with the LS3 a little, .

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Did you get the complete C&C kit (motor/tranny/wiring harness/ECM)? If so, the tune should already account for FPR. The stealth pump should provide more than adequate pressure to minimize any variations in the fuel pressure due to the distance of the FPR from the fuel rails. If you were wanting to go with BIG HP, I would recommend installing a return style fuel system with the FPR close to the rails. Let me know if you need any help with the tune, I've played around with the LS3 a little, .

Yes, I got the complete kit. I can't tell you how much I appreciate the offer of assistance. I'm an old school guy with a few computer skills, but this is all new territory for me. My goal with this project is a driver that will pull an Airstream or ultra light travel trailer. The stock HP will probably be more than enough for my needs, but even if I tweaked it somewhat, it wouldn't be for big numbers. Thanks!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Did you get the complete C&C kit (motor/tranny/wiring harness/ECM)? If so, the tune should already account for FPR. The stealth pump should provide more than adequate pressure to minimize any variations in the fuel pressure due to the distance of the FPR from the fuel rails. If you were wanting to go with BIG HP, I would recommend installing a return style fuel system with the FPR close to the rails. Let me know if you need any help with the tune, I've played around with the LS3 a little, .

BTW, I love the look of your setup!

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Thanks for the input! The GM regulator/filter has a return port so I'll plumb it into the tank. Sounds like tune for the LS3 C&C crate motor is Camaro SS or Corvette based so I reckon it will handle the fuel pump as needed.

Still no word from the frame shop, so I've been gathering up parts to complete the swap. The CTS-V oil pan and kit arrived and looks like it will provide plenty of clearance for the cross member. I removed the manifolds, fuel rails and sound cover from the engine. I plan to paint the sound cover and the rail covers to match the truck color.

Speaking of painting... I made the third trip in the last four months to yet another cornea specialist who advised me to STOP doing paint and body work, welding and grinding or anything that would irritate my eyes, especially the right one. The growths over the iris are so severe, the doctors feel it's too risky to remove them surgically. That only leaves the option of trying to maintain the vision I have left. So I'm researching full face respirators with the corrective spectacle kit. I can use it for paint and body, but still not sure what I can do for welding. I know they have supplied air kits for welding helmets so I'll be looking at them also. Pretty sure Speedglas offers a model, but I need something full face to keep the fumes away from the eyes. This wasn't a budget item before, but it is now.

Vic if you need anything done all you have to do is call me.

[jeh]

Hey Vic, when you get that Ls in there and tuned you might have to reinforce the tongue on that travel trailer

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Vic if you need anything done all you have to do is call me.

You know I will, Scott. Thanks.

Originally Posted by jeh

Hey Vic, when you get that Ls in there and tuned you might have to reinforce the tongue on that travel trailer

[Vic1947]

Okay, my BIL Rick has been here from Seattle for most of the week and between fishing, eating chips and salsa and drinking beer, we did get a few things done on CRLS. First off, we setup a string line from the front of the frame to the rear and verified what the laser was saying. The advantage of using the string line was that we were able to determine a bit more accurately where the bend in the frame starts (right around the trans x-member). By the time you get to the front frame horns, the spec says you should have 14" from the frame to the C/L. We had slightly over 15" on one side and less than 13" on the other. So I'm confident the frame is tweaked, even though it has no obvious buckled spot.

Precision Collision is still backed up on their frame rack, so I took a chance and went back to the local shop that did the work originally. Took my pictures and described to the owner what was happening. After I finished, he said the reason they no longer work on this model truck is that no matter what they do to the frame, the body panels never fit correctly. He swore that when the frame left his shop they would have checked all the factory measurements, so he had no idea how it could be in this condition. He did soften up a bit eventually, but said the earliest he could have another look at it would be the middle of June. So I'm now heading in another direction. Scott put me in touch with a stock car buddy of his. He's getting the contact info for the guy (Mike) that does a lot of frame work for those cars around this area. Assuming I can get a place in line, I'll see if he can put this issue to rest.

Meanwhile, we cranked out the Aeromotive in-tank fuel pump mount. Started with some aluminum angle and fit it into the block off plate that came with the Boyd's tank. I used AN bulkhead fittings for the pressure and return lines. The wiring feed-through is a brass compression union that I modified on the lathe and potted with JB Weld where the wires feed through. Voila! I now have a 340 lph, 90 psi pump for under $150. We ended up switching the fuel line to the driver side since the LS3 fuel rails connect on that side. Mounted the regulator/filter to the angled cross member which kept the return line short.

While Rick was here, he also helped me repair my ancient Craftsman air compressor. The tank was leaking a tiny amount from the weld around the drain bung. Looked like an automated wire feed weld and right at the start/finish overlap there must have been a tiny inclusion caused by an impurity. Over time, the pressure and corrosion opened up a tiny little pinhole that would weep an occasional drop of water. Rick removed all the hardware and we laid the tank on it's side, cleaned the area and then welded up the pinhole. Good as new!

[jeh]

Very creative Vic, looks good!!! Hope you get the frame issue "straightened" out.

[Xeen]

Vic it's good to see that you are getting some stuff done.

[Elliot949]

Very Nice Vic... Good luck getting the frame straight... I would say the guy that straighten it the first time is a incompetent frame man... Stating that he no longer works on "those" truck because nothing ever fit is the biggest line of crap I have ever heard... back when we have the shop open we did the 50,60 and 70's truck all the time and NEVER had a issue getting one straight...

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jeh

Very creative Vic, looks good!!! Hope you get the frame issue "straightened" out.

Thanks, Jason, I hope so too.

Originally Posted by Xeen

Vic it's good to see that you are getting some stuff done.

You bet, Brian. A little here, a little there...

Originally Posted by Elliot949

Very Nice Vic... Good luck getting the frame straight... I would say the guy that straighten it the first time is a incompetent frame man... Stating that he no longer works on "those" truck because nothing ever fit is the biggest line of crap I have ever heard... back when we have the shop open we did the 50,60 and 70's truck all the time and NEVER had a issue getting one straight...

Hey Dan, I've been watching Raymond's progress and it seems like I'm stuck in waist deep mud compared to you. I reckon no business owner likes to see a "comeback" but he could have finessed it a bit better. At least he made the offer to have another look. He's been doing it a long time, but everyone makes a mistake now and then. However, it's probably best if this other shop can work me in. I'll keep everyone posted.

[Elliot949]

Hey Dan, I've been watching Raymond's progress and it seems like I'm stuck in waist deep mud compared to you. I reckon no business owner likes to see a "comeback" but he could have finessed it a bit better. At least he made the offer to have another look. He's been doing it a long time, but everyone makes a mistake now and then. However, it's probably best if this other shop can work me in. I'll keep everyone posted.[/QUOTE]

I understand Vic... I have certainly had my issues with Chris Carlson's Hot Rods... I am on the downhill slope now... and I would say that once you get the frame issue Straighten out (tongue in cheek) you will be well on your way to completion...

I did send you a PM awhile back about your engine... We may be isterested in it for my grandson...

[Low Elco]

Good lookin' stuff, Vic! Thanks again for helping Boppa the other day.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Meanwhile, we cranked out the Aeromotive in-tank fuel pump mount. Started with some aluminum angle and fit it into the block off plate that came with the Boyd's tank. I used AN bulkhead fittings for the pressure and return lines. The wiring feed-through is a brass compression union that I modified on the lathe and potted with JB Weld where the wires feed through. Voila! I now have a 340 lph, 90 psi pump for under $150. We ended up switching the fuel line to the driver side since the LS3 fuel rails connect on that side. Mounted the regulator/filter to the angled cross member which kept the return line short.

Your fuel module looks good! Did you use fuel line that can be submersed in fuel? I found out the hard way that you can't just use normal fuel hose as the exterior of the line is not designed to be submerged in fuel and will deteriorate over time. Just a heads up.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Your fuel module looks good! Did you use fuel line that can be submersed in fuel? I found out the hard way that you can't just use normal fuel hose as the exterior of the line is not designed to be submerged in fuel and will deteriorate over time. Just a heads up.

There's a hot tip!

Outstanding work Vic, as usual!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Good lookin' stuff, Vic! Thanks again for helping Boppa the other day.

Hey, no problem Chip, anything to get a ride in Yeller.

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Your fuel module looks good! Did you use fuel line that can be submersed in fuel? I found out the hard way that you can't just use normal fuel hose as the exterior of the line is not designed to be submerged in fuel and will deteriorate over time. Just a heads up.

Good catch, Rob. The box the Aeromotive pump came in included the filter, the hose and a couple of clamps. I used their hose, so I assumed(!) it would be suitable. Their installation instructions said nothing about the components other than anything in the system should be compatible with the fuel. But to be sure, I looked at the FAQ on their website and found no mention of it. So I waited on hold for one of their tech guys who confirmed that the fuel hose (and the rubber gasket in the weather pack connector) are designed for immersion in fuel. Hopefully it will last for many miles of smiles.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

There's a hot tip!

Outstanding work Vic, as usual!

Thanks, John!

[notchbackgta]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

the LS3 fuel rails connect on that side.

I am pretty sure you can flip the fuel rail around if you want. The LS1 will let you, I don't see why the LS3 would be any different.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

I am pretty sure you can flip the fuel rail around if you want. The LS1 will let you, I don't see why the LS3 would be any different.

I wasn't aware of that, so I checked and you're correct that the fuel rail can be installed with the feed toward either side. The problem is that the sound cover is asymmetric. There's an indentation in the cover that clears the line. You can't flip the cover around because the front and back are so different. A possible solution would be to leave the cover off (which some guys do) but I've read the noise level goes up quite a bit. Alternatively, you could mill a slot in the cover to clear the line. I'll have to mull this over some.

[snipescastle2]

Vic,
I know you already have your fuel system planned, but I seen this setup a while back on a Corvette Forum and I thought I'd share, it's a mod to use the "Return less" fuel system.......
Have a good one!
Ben

[Vic1947]

We went to Sedalia yesterday to the annual West Central MO Vintage Auto Club car show. All their proceeds go to several charities, plus I get to catch up with a lot of my car buds, so we always have a great time. Weather was outstanding and they had over 150 cars counting the members.

When we got home, the spectacle kit for my full face mask was in the mailbox. So this morning I assembled it all and tried it on. Looks like it should work very well for grinding and painting tasks. That only leave welding protection for me to figure out, although I really don't have that much welding to do at this point. I'm leaning toward prescription swim goggles to wear with the helmet. They look like they'd easily fit.

The lead I had on a frame shop petered out. So I'm back to looking again. I pulled the fuel tank, hitch, sway bar, fuel lines and some of the brake lines while I sort out where to go. Looks naked without some of those pieces.

[swamp rat]

I like the spectacle kit, i could use one to say the least.. even using a full face over instead of my nose/mouth mask would be nice except it won't seal around the ear frames of my glasses, then again i also have a goatee, humm....

Can you tell me what cartridge you have? Looks like 6011 but i cant locate that on the 3M page. Thanks!

I just bought some new P95's at the paint store.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

...Can you tell me what cartridge you have? Looks like 6011 but i cant locate that on the 3M page. Thanks!

I just bought some new P95's at the paint store.

It's a 3M 6001 which is a "P95 series" organic vapor and particulate cartridge. P95 just means it filters 95% of airborne particles and is strongly resistant to oils which makes it a decent filter for painting.