A '54 named Busty

[layinrocker65]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I think they will work just fine, anybody know if there are any tail light height ordinances and regulations

15” minimum 72” maximum per 24600(f) CVC. You’d probably be fine since your not a straight piped 4 cylinder Honda car driving like your in Fast and the Furious getting everyone’s attention

[texxxan]

Those lights might look good cut in to the roll pan. Lot's of progress. Very impressive. I used bicycle inner tubes between my tank and tank straps. It worked great and very cheap. We like cheap.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by texxxan

Those lights might look good cut in to the roll pan. Lot's of progress. Very impressive. I used bicycle inner tubes between my tank and tank straps. It worked great and very cheap. We like cheap.

Yup, thought about it, and bought some but they usually come as 4" and that's just too big, so I am thinking about doing some oval ones horizontally, let me know if you come across some that may work

[texxxan]

Will do. Honestly, it looks good as is and very functional.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by texxxan

Will do. Honestly, it looks good as is and very functional.

thanks, can't wait to take my shin out on them at night after a few cold ones!

[6DoF]

that's nice that they have the reverse lights built in, i'm still not sure what my plan is for rev lights.

[6DoF]

mount the lights upside down and you could gain another 6" up i bet

[Gregski]

oh my lawrd what is happening here, just got a second quote for the bucket seats

Quote #1 - $1,400 for labor plus $400 for materials

Quote #2 - $2,700 ($1,350 per seat) that's before tax


as a reference this is in $acramento, CALIFORNIA

[8man]

What are they covering them with, white rhino hide?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

What are they covering them with, white rhino hide?

no doubt, woven by left handed albino virgins

[6DoF]

labor is what's killing ya! can probably get someone like Katzkins to sell ya some pre-fit leather you can swap in place of the fabric. that's what i was looking at for the yukon seat in mine.

[Gregski]

and a third quote we are seriously going in the wrong direction here

Quote #1 - $1,400 for labor plus $400 for materials

Quote #2 - $2,700 ($1,350 per seat) that's before tax[/B][/COLOR]

Quote #3 - $3,400 and Price varies depending on design style and materials picked.

as a reference this is in $acramento, CALIFORNIA and I start off by asking for a quote for leather with gray stitching, then I ask for vinyl, then cloth

[Gregski]

fourth quote and finally a voice of reason

Quote #1 - $1,400 for labor plus $400 for materials

Quote #2 - $2,700 ($1,350 per seat) that's before tax[/B][/COLOR]

Quote #3 - $3,400 and Price varies depending on design style and materials picked.

Quote #4 - $600 bucks per seat so $1,200 total for real leather, but he is "4 weeks out" which I assume he can't even start on them for 4 weeks?

Quote #5 - $750 bucks per seat so $1,500 total for leather and only $475 for cloth/vinyl but it will take him 4 to 8 weeks

we going to get one more quote and probably go with option 4 above, not because he is the cheapest just sounded nice when we spoke

as a reference this is in $acramento, CALIFORNIA

[Gregski]

so yeah just waiting on parts, which explains why I tend to jump around from project to project just to keep the ball rollin'

when a doin' the LS Swap you introduce Europic threads to the mix so now you find yourself adapting metric to Americandard such as the coolant temp sender and the oil pressure sender

[8man]

Just weld it in. Or get a bigger hammer.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Just weld it in. Or get a bigger hammer.

ha ha, that's some sound advice coming from you Robert, and it's on the Internet so it's gotta be valid!

[8man]

Yep.

I had a junk rear fender, so I've been practicing on it. I removed the support and welded two screws back in, now I know how to make slick rear fenders.

I know that doesn't help with the seats, the delayed parts or California protecting you to the point you can't breath air, but it is something.

[Gregski]

Everybody wanna be a Gangstah 'till it's time to do sum Gangstah stuff, am I right fellas?

[Gregski]

it ain't all headers, turbos, and cold intakes you know

[Gregski]

In today's First World Problems session we rant about Autometer swappin' horses mid stream

What is he talking about?

Well note how my small gauges have stud posts that you put ring terminals on and screw them down like a human would

then look at the Speedo the larger unit, see how they done away with that and now you use the stupid slip on (and easily can slip off) spade posts and terminals

add to this the fact that it makes it impossible to daisy chain your gauges and still keep them loosely coupled, and it's enough to drive this guy mad

and did I mention I premade all my loop connections prior to the Speedo and the stupid Tach finally deciding to arrive and join the party

[Deep Breath]

[6DoF]

my street-rod jeep has all autometer, and i wired the whole thing with the space connectors. daisy chaining by just crimping 2 wires into one connector. i've never had an issue with years of beating on that thing.

you ever taken pliers to a female end to tighten them up?

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Well note how my small gauges have stud posts that you put loop terminals on and screw them down like a human would

then look at the Speedo the larger unit, see how they done away with that and now you use the stupid slip on (and easily can slip off) spade posts and terminals

add to this the fact that it makes it impossible to daisy chain your gauges and still keep them loosely coupled, and it's enough to drive this guy mad

and did I mention I premade all my loop connections prior to the Speedo and the stupid Tach finally deciding to arrive and join the party

[Deep Breath]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

my street-rod jeep has all autometer, and i wired the whole thing with the space connectors. daisy chaining by just crimping 2 wires into one connector. i've never had an issue with years of beating on that thing.

you ever taken pliers to a female end to tighten them up?

I did the same to my Jeep. C'mon Greg.... You can handle this.

[8man]

Sucks, but what you gonna do? Install them anyway. I know, I know, you are correct, but...

[dsraven]

notice how the male p[art of the spade connector has a hole in it? there are good-better-best female connectors to fit different styles of the male connectors. this style needs to have a female terminal with a bump in the middle to match the hole in the terminal on the speedo. I try to buy the non insulated terminals for most stuff because then I can place the crimp on the opposite side of the terminal where the barrel parts come together (usually) so the crimp usually has a better chance of not deforming plus I can see the crimp and know exactly what my crimp looks like. then I shrink tube over the wire and the terminal but shrink less on the terminal part so it just has some insulation on it and won't short out. if you need to daisy chain the wiring then you can also use a terminal with a larger wire gauge size and put 2 wires into one terminal OR crimp on a terminal with a piggy back connector. knowing there is then twice the chance of a problem....some of the spade connectors don't have the bump to hold them onto the male terminal so they rely totally on friction from the sides. on the back of a speedo there may not be as much pull on the wiring as compared to, say, a light on the outside of a truck or trailer. some of the "new" wiring connections are great for being sealed but not so great for close quarters.
here is a site with some terminals where you can see the bump in the female side. these guys sell all kinds of wiring stuff so you can peruse to find something you need and buy online or take the name/part number and try napa.
Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
Part Number : QDF8-250-1000

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

notice how the male p[art of the spade connector has a hole in it? there are good-better-best female connectors to fit different styles of the male connectors. this style needs to have a female terminal with a bump in the middle to match the hole in the terminal on the speedo. I try to buy the non insulated terminals for most stuff because then I can place the crimp on the opposite side of the terminal where the barrel parts come together (usually) so the crimp usually has a better chance of not deforming plus I can see the crimp and know exactly what my crimp looks like. then I shrink tube over the wire and the terminal but shrink less on the terminal part so it just has some insulation on it and won't short out. if you need to daisy chain the wiring then you can also use a terminal with a larger wire gauge size and put 2 wires into one terminal OR crimp on a terminal with a piggy back connector. knowing there is then twice the chance of a problem....some of the spade connectors don't have the bump to hold them onto the male terminal so they rely totally on friction from the sides. on the back of a speedo there may not be as much pull on the wiring as compared to, say, a light on the outside of a truck or trailer. some of the "new" wiring connections are great for being sealed but not so great for close quarters.
here is a site with some terminals where you can see the bump in the female side. these guys sell all kinds of wiring stuff so you can peruse to find something you need and buy online or take the name/part number and try napa.
Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
Part Number : QDF8-250-1000

good stuff, thank you