Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[glock35ipsc]

A/C system is all buttoned up! If I have time after dinner I'll head back out and charge it and see if anything blows up! I wound up taking the fitting coming off the accumulator to a guy to weld them together. I don't really like the way it looks, so I left the hose long enough that at some point I can get a 90* fitting and replace it.

Thanks for the anti seize tip Jay! I did do that after I read your post.

[bigdnew]

so got the switching valve today. will you please help me wrap my head around how it and everything fuel wires up. also, what was left of your factory harness bulk head and what went were. thanks for the help, never would have made it this far without you.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by bigdnew

so got the switching valve today. will you please help me wrap my head around how it and everything fuel wires up. also, what was left of your factory harness bulk head and what went were. thanks for the help, never would have made it this far without you.

I can't help you much with the wiring, but this pic might help with the plumbing:



The blue hoses are the feed lines, and the black ones are the returns. The ones on the left side of the pic are going to the engine. Right side is from the tanks. When mounted, the fittings on the right of the valve are for the right tank (the ones connecting to the steel lines), and the left side fittings are for the left tank. When installed, the return ports (smaller ones) should be on top.

In this post is a couple of factory wiring diagrams for the fuel system:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...el+pump+wiring

Now, bulkhead wiring....

The bundle running behind and over the brake booster was left over from the TBI stuff, and I got rid of most of those.

Of the ones I am holding, the right bundle is to the front light harness. The left bundle is to the starter, oil and temp senders, AC, and ignition-on wire(**), and the power wires that run to the junction block on the firewall next the brake booster. Most everything else I stagger cut about 4"-5" from the connector just in case I needed any of them. Since I haven't found any I need as of yet, I will probably pull the connector off some day and pull those wires completely out.



** - For the Ignition-on wire, be sure to find one that is hot when the engine is cranking too, not just in the run position. This wire will go to your fuse block to trigger the relays for the harness ignition wire relays and the fuel pump relay.

[glock35ipsc]

As for the A/C, I decided I would take it to another friend to have him pull a vacuum on the system first to be sure there are no leaks. And while it's hooked up to his machine, he just a well go ahead and charge it too!

I drove him to work today, and he was very happy to get out on the interstate and stretch his legs!

[glock35ipsc]

Just got off the phone with Chris (Powell72), he is going to come over and get the truck in the morning and charge up the A/C.

[STOCKISH]

I think Bobs next vendor sale should be LS swap A/C hoses for those of us using the LS compressor in the stock location...Everyone agree? I know I would like a set....

[glock35ipsc]

Hmmm, that might be possible....

And for those that are planning on using the stock LS compressor, here's the finished install. It's a little tight, but very do-able. The A/C hoses are the two coming out on either side of the lower radiator hose with the split loom on them.

As soon as I can figure out what my techno-wiz son did with my camera battery charger, I'll get some better pics.

[6772owner]

Looks awesome Bob, glad you finally figured out all the hoses, connections, compressor, etc... Now theres no excuse to stay cool!

[glock35ipsc]

Now theres no excuse to "not "stay cool!

On another note, I just got off the phone with a guy in Denver that answered my Craigslist add looking for an LS block. He has an aluminum LS1 block with holes in two cylinders that he is going to give me. Hopefully I can start working on a swap kit in the near future.

Road trip to Denver this Saturday!

[Jhogan830]

bob! im diggin EVERYTHING you have been doing with your truck...and ive stealin some of you ideas =P keep on keepin on!

[Jhogan830]

just hard to wrk on you truck when u have a GF skewl and parents...and dnt rlly have alot of know how...hahahahah

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Jhogan830

just hard to wrk on you truck when u have a GF skewl and parents...and dnt rlly have alot of know how...hahahahah

Concentrate on your skewl work my man!

[STOCKISH]

Definately. The trucks will always be there. Get a good education or you'll wind up like me turning wrenches for a living. While it's a pretty darn good living it's very hard on the back. Use your head for work. Work smarter, not harder.

[STOCKISH]

Bob, I'm glad to know I'm not the only anal one who turns all the hose clamps in the same direction to make them look nice!

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by 1972SuperCheyenne

Bob, I'm glad to know I'm not the only anal one who turns all the hose clamps in the same direction to make them look nice!

Yep, busted!!

Something else that made me smile a few minutes ago...... my two pesky little leaks that I had are now gone! The lower trans cooler fitting on the radiator was leaking just enough to make the tank wet. A few wraps of teflon tape cured that.

And the temp sending unit doesn't leak anymore either. It was leaking between the sending unit itself and the adapter Mcbassin made for me. I pulled it out, cleaned off all the teflon tape and replaced it with pipe dope. Good and dry now. I'm most happy about this one, because I hate the smell of anti-freeze burning as it drips on the manifold!

[JohnC]

Originally Posted by 1972SuperCheyenne

Bob, I'm glad to know I'm not the only anal one who turns all the hose clamps in the same direction to make them look nice!

A trick my cousin did on his Camaro was to get a larger hose clamp that had the solid band instead of the little holes in it. He then cut it down so that it was small enough to use on smaller hoses. Then he turned the actual screw part to the bottom side of the hose. So all that is left to see is the solid look of the band, and the little holes and the screw tightener is on the bottom out of sight.

[glock35ipsc]

I like that idea!

[6772owner]

Bob, if you are around the Arvada area, drop by and help me wrench.

[glock35ipsc]

Whatchya got going on? I have to run down to Littleton Saturday morning, but I need to be turned around and back home pretty quickly.

[bigdnew]

thank for help and allowing all of us to glean from your wisdom. so if the motor doesn't need a return line where is the return line going.

[glock35ipsc]

The return line will go from the Vette filter/regulator back to the tank. On the sending unit, there will be three ports: feed (largest), return (middle bear), and vent (smallest).

[bigdnew]

no the port that says return line from engine, did you just block it off.

[glock35ipsc]

I've talked to sooooo many people the past couple of weeks regarding fuels systems, I'm starting to get all you guys mixed up!! Your engine has only one line on it that needs to go to the tank, and that is a feed line, the silver line that has duct tape on the end. That one runs to the single port side of the Vette F/R. On the other side of the F/R, the outer/offset port if the feed that goes to the outlet of the tank, and the center is the return that goes to the return port at the tank.

Where are you seeing "the port that says return line from engine"? I'm not sure what you mean by this.

[bigdnew]

let me look at my diagram when i get home. i swear on the switching valve there is a port for a return line from engine that we do not need. i am probaly mistaken. sorry to confuse.

[glock35ipsc]

OK, my bad, I forgot about a switching valve. I'm with you now. Like I said, I've been talking to a BUNCH of people!

Your return line setup will go like the: A line from the sending unit to the switching valve, then the switching valve to the F/R. That's where the return line's job ends.

Your feed line setup will go: From the sending unit of each tank to the switching valve, switching valve to the F/R, the F/R to the engine.

Blue lines = feed
Black lines = return
Left side of pic is front, right side is rear.