Restoring Rusty

[77K10Silverado]

This will do!

Excited to see how the pipes fit. Been thinking of this for mine.

[Gregski]

before we tackle the exhaust we gots some unfinished business to attend to, as you may recall we left the inner fender primered (redish) and coated its belly with the terrible RUST-OLEUM undercoating but we never painted it green to match the other side, so here we go....

first pic, inner fender ready for paint

second pic first coat

third pic second coat

I recon we will only need two cans of paint for this amount of surface area or roughly 4 coats, (2 coats per rattle can)

[rusty76]

Oh boy exhausting exhaust work. Lol

[Gregski]

ok, here are the final two coats

first pic - third coat

second pic - fourth coat

i shot them about 15 minutes apart, used OMNI single stage paint, the cost to paint an inner fender like this is about $35 bucks just for the paint alone, paint comes in a spray can that costs $10 dollars just by itself, it just contains some magical potion to which then they add your color, in my case at $1.50 per ounce and they add 4 oz to the can

what is OMNI paint, the best way it was explained to me is that it is the little (poorer) brother of PPG, both products essentially start out as the same thing ie formula then PPG gets all this stuff added to it to lets say allow it to be shot between wider temp differences like (I'm guessing) 60* to 90* where as OMNI can only be shot between 70* to 80* (again just an example) or maybe PPG has a shelf life of 5 years where as OMNI will only last for 2 years, that type of thing

[Gregski]

bronged it into the garage and if I have the discipline I will let it hang there for a couple weeks to cure, if you aint got a climate controlled paint booth, or a way to bake the paint you really need to give it time (months) to cure on its own... who has that kinda time right

[Gregski]

also decided to lay out the long tube headers and the X pipe exhaust components on the garage floor and stare at them for a while to see what we is up against

[Gregski]

during the stare down I realized that we do have a trouble spot, you see I am not going to weld these components, so I was hoping for this to be bolt up clamp down setup, however where the collector extensions meet the X pipe extensions neither ends have the Feng Shui ends (flared, for one end to receive the other type a thing)

we must sleep on this dilema...

[Jeramy]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wl...K98xoCA0Lw_wcB

this one is for 2.25 but they make them in many different sizes
that or take one set of your pipes to exhaust shop and have them flare the ends

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wl...K98xoCA0Lw_wcB

this one is for 2.25 but they make them in many different sizes
that or take one set of your pipes to exhaust shop and have them flare the ends

why thank you very much kind sir, this is what they look like



which got me to a thinkin' would they have sum with an O2 sensor bung, why yezum they do



now why do I need such a contraption when Rusty is a carburated, well you can tune a carburetor real good like if you know the exact precise air fuel ratio, so some day I would like to connect a permanent Air Fuel gauge and this way I will already have that provision

[Gregski]

not sure if I showed you this yet or not, so here it is

see the rusty headers - first pic

see the Greg acid clean them - second pic

see what happens when you don't paint them right away and let them hang in the garage for a week - third pic

RUST IS A BEAR, WE ALL HATE IT I'M SURE

[Gregski]

I was told that metal will still rust even after you treat it with Muriatic acid, but not if you treat it with Phosphoric, um what ever, I did treat them with Prep & Ready (made by POR15) which is Phosphoric based, and they still flash rusted on me

[Chaplain]

Yep

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

why thank you very much kind sir, this is what they look like



which got me to a thinkin' would they have sum with an O2 sensor bung, why yezum they do



now why do I need such a contraption when Rusty is a carburated, well you can tune a carburetor real good like if you know the exact precise air fuel ratio, so some day I would like to connect a permanent Air Fuel gauge and this way I will already have that provision

You don't need the A/FR meter permanent. Once you tune the carb, you're pretty much done unless you change something.

[Chrispbrown36]

So after reading through your thread again I decided to head to my local pick n pull....the only one in the area....and see what they had. Let me just say you are VERY lucky to have the selection you have. There were 3 square body trucks and all but one was pretty well picked over. They had one 90's model square body Blazer and it was picked to the bones too. There really isn't anything that I absolutely have to have, but thought if I found a few good parts I would pick them up just in case. Looks like I am going to have to do some traveling if I really need anything.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

You don't need the A/FR meter permanent. Once you tune the carb, you're pretty much done unless you change something.

Need it to adjust for elevation, when I do the Power Tour, LOL

[rusty76]

You may even be able to rent one of those exhaust flare tools. I can't think of its' name at the moment. I'll think of it later. I actually use one almost daily. Grrrrr....

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chrispbrown36

So after reading through your thread again I decided to head to my local pick n pull....the only one in the area....and see what they had. Let me just say you are VERY lucky to have the selection you have.

Yup, they is getting harder and harder to find, I weep a little every time I see a short bed sitting there awaiting the crusher, that's why I share my expeditions with you, sometimes I surprise myself that I can still find useful things in there

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I was told that metal will still rust even after you treat it with Muriatic acid, but not if you treat it with Phosphoric, um what ever, I did treat them with Prep & Ready (made by POR15) which is Phosphoric based, and they still flash rusted on me

I've heard of people coating headers in never seize and letting it cook on and it permanently seals them off and they never rust again.

[Gregski]

picked up some VHT high temp paint for $10 bucks on the way home today, VHT sounds like a sexually transmitted disease don't it... hey have you heard about Stew, he got VHT real bad... LOL

anyway impatiently decided to shoot the headers surface rust and all, you ever had one of 'em days where you bust your butt try real hard, do the best you can and your best aint good enuff, well I hate rust and I wasn't about to spend the next few days wire wheelin it off these twisty and turny pipes

went with this silver color wish they had more of a cast iron color but why would they right?! I knew I didn't want them to look rusty and I didn't want them to be black, so ... anyway to the pics

[Gregski]

so when I couldn't work on the truck it was hitting highs of 93*, right now I am trying to finish painting and it's 64* and rain forecast for tomorrow and the next day, joy

man I really get grouchy when I go a few weekends without wrenchin'!!!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

I've heard of people coating headers in never seize and letting it cook on and it permanently seals them off and they never rust again.

Interesting, never heard of that but it's all over the Google and InterWebs

[Gregski]

alright guys the Long Tube HOOKER Competition headers are going in.

First the driver side, we got good clearance all the way around, at first with the header just hanging on two manifold long bolts I thought I would be touching the oil filter, but after switched to shorter bolts and tightened them all the way in now we have at least 1 inch of clearance between the oil filter and the collectors, nice

LESSON LEARNED - don't half donkey your mock ups people, go all the way on them.

[Gregski]

Long Tube Headers installation - Driver Side continued

We also clear the lower A arm nicely.

Area of concern is the #5 spark plug wire, I am currently running 90* plug wires and it may be time to switch to straight ones, or reroute #5 and #7 (the two closest to the firewall) under the headers.

Your advice is greatly appreciated, and I hope this helps some of youz out.

[Chrispbrown36]

In the local classifieds there have been a set of Chevy small block headers for 75 bucks for at least a month now. I keep looking at em and thinking about it, but I just can't see that I really need em. So tell me why you want to put them on your truck?

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Chrispbrown36

In the local classifieds there have been a set of Chevy small block headers for 75 bucks for at least a month now. I keep looking at em and thinking about it, but I just can't see that I really need em. So tell me why you want to put them on your truck?

MOAR POWER AND BETTER SOUND