1968

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

George it doesnt matter which way you do it the end result is the same.

Thanks , I tried to call you today. It keeps being busy. I guess you are a busy guy. I had a problem and I thought you could help. The bottom door hinge on the pass side where it bolts to the truck. Well, I got two bolts that will not tighten up. The nut behind the pillar is stripped. What is the best way to solve this problem? I don't want just one bolt holding the door up. Could I re tap to a larger size or weld it to the pillar. I really don't like the weld idea. You never know what the future will bring. I got the door adjusted right and hate to move it again. It took me about two hours doing it.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by GEARBOXGARAGE

The cowl will mount after the fenders as it covers the top 2 fender mounting bolts.

yea you are right I wasn't thinking when I posted. should I mount the cowl before the hood? Thanks Mike

[gdavis]

Today I finished the other door. It was a lot harder than the drivers side. I stripped two bolts on the bottom hinge. what to do now?????????????????? The truck looks like I stepped back a month or so. But I hope to have it all back together soon. I got to work out of the house tomorrow. So I don't think I will get a chance to do anything on the truck.
Both fender are off the truck and the grill. it looks bare bone now.

[Mustard72]

Could you use a helicoil to recreate the original threads rather than tap to a bigger size? It gets a bit tricky with the captured nut, I suppose. I suppose either way you are removing the door again to drill out the holes. If the door is adjusted right at this point, though, you can drill a little hole through the hinge into the pillar and when it comes time to remount the door, use the drill bit as a dowel to line up the hinge to where you took it off from. I did that with Mustard after I got my doors lined up. Works like a charm. I can't claim credit for the idea, as I got it from Mr. Duckworth. I think I used a 1/16" or 3/32" drill bit for mine. One hole per hinge should do the trick.

....and now the rest of us will make sure to not overtighten our door bolts.

[Xeen]

That's a bad place to have a stripped out bolt plate, ask Vic what he would do in this situation.

[gdavis]

I did get to do something on the truck. I mounted the bed back on the truck. Here is the front picture of the truck after I pulled both fenders and grill. Maybe Monday I will get to re-mount the front clip.



It looks like I need to repaint the inter grill/radiator support. It has some orange over spray on it. I knew I had to pull the grill off. Now I see why. Vic gave me a idea about the hinge bolts. To step up to the next size and drill them out and tap them.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Mustard72

Could you use a helicoil to recreate the original threads rather than tap to a bigger size? It gets a bit tricky with the captured nut, I suppose. I suppose either way you are removing the door again to drill out the holes. If the door is adjusted right at this point, though, you can drill a little hole through the hinge into the pillar and when it comes time to remount the door, use the drill bit as a dowel to line up the hinge to where you took it off from. I did that with Mustard after I got my doors lined up. Works like a charm. I can't claim credit for the idea, as I got it from Mr. Duckworth. I think I used a 1/16" or 3/32" drill bit for mine. One hole per hinge should do the trick.

....and now the rest of us will make sure to not overtighten our door bolts.

yea those backing plate nut are old and don't and can't stand a I/2 drive socket and a strong arm.

[sduckworth13]

George here is a picture of what the plate of screws that sits behind the door pillar for the door bolts to go in.

[sduckworth13]

Here is one more

[Xeen]

Vic said to try and use a M10x1.5 tap and the proper metric bolt and see if that works.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Vic said to try and use a M10x1.5 tap and the proper metric bolt and see if that works.

That's what I did with mine and it worked perfect.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

George here is a picture of what the plate of screws that sits behind the door pillar for the door bolts to go in.

Yea I know what it looks like. When I replaced the pillar on that side I removed it and put in another one that I thought was better. bad idea. Thanks Scott for posting the picture. I bet someone reading this post will thank you also. This place is a good place for information on these truck. And again thanks.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Vic said to try and use a M10x1.5 tap and the proper metric bolt and see if that works.

I am going to try the tap that Vic said. I hope I have one. I have 100's of taps but want to take a bet that is one I don't have. anyway I will buy one if I don't.
George

[gdavis]

I did not work on my truck today. I worked with my Son-In-Law replacing the roof on his tool shed. It was in bad shape. it leaked and he did not think he was going to replace it. But he thought better when he priced a new shed. Sometimes age has it's advantages.

[1stchevy]

Truck looks good, you'll be driving it in no time.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Originally Posted by gdavis

yea you are right I wasn't thinking when I posted. should I mount the cowl before the hood? Thanks Mike

I like to mount the cowl and get the body lines matched to the doors and along the top of the fenders, then mount your hood and set the body lines/gaps to the cowl and top of fenders. Hope this helps.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by GEARBOXGARAGE

I like to mount the cowl and get the body lines matched to the doors and along the top of the fenders, then mount your hood and set the body lines/gaps to the cowl and top of fenders. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the information about the cowl. it helps.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by 1stchevy

Truck looks good, you'll be driving it in no time.

Yea I hope to drive it around the 1st of Aug.
need a complete exhaust
need a carb.
need front and rear bumpers for 67 thru 70 chrome.
wiring harness
as far as the truck I did nothing on it today.

[Dean'smeanmachine]

looks great!

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Dean'smeanmachine

looks great!

Thanks a lot man.

[gdavis]

Today I bought a tap M10x1.50 for the stripped door hinge bolts. Guys it worked out real sweet. I went ahead and done all three bolts. That way they would be all the same on that hinge. There is a big difference in the hex size from American bolts. The old ones are 3/8 and the Metric is 17 MM. But who cares of that. All I know it worked and no damage to the truck.
I am hoping to paint the black of the truck tomorrow. I shot the orange and didn't cover the inter grill/rad core support as you can see in the picture. Then I will paint the hinges areas so that they will all look good.

[SeTx67]

George, you've been knocking it out lately. Your truck is looking great and as usual you're moving right along

[gdavis]

today I only worked on the vent doors and handles. Got them installed. I also put the e-brake handle mounted. Got a lazy streak. maybe tomorrow I will do some excited work I said maybe.

[Mustard72]

Yeah, and maybe you'll have to mow the grass or some other March inFlorida type of thing....

Glad the door hinge issue worked out

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Mustard72

Yeah, and maybe you'll have to mow the grass or some other March inFlorida type of thing....

Glad the door hinge issue worked out

Thanks, is it still cold up there in the yunkon