Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chrispbrown36

In the local classifieds there have been a set of Chevy small block headers for 75 bucks for at least a month now. I keep looking at em and thinking about it, but I just can't see that I really need em. So tell me why you want to put them on your truck?

Getting truck ready for second round of Dyno testing, (hopefully next month), the upgrades will include

Weiand Street Warrior Dual Plane intake manifold
Holley 4160 carburetor
Mr. Gasket open element air cleaner
Petronix HEI distributor
these Hooker Competition headers
Summit X 2.25" pipe dual exhaust

The goal is to see what is the horse power gain over stock / my first baseline of 190 if any.

[Gregski]

on the passenger side we had some interference with the hard fuel line(s) to and evap line, as well as the rear brake line

no idea why GM decided to loop the lines under the engine cross member instead of continuing on straight inside the frame rail channel

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Getting truck ready for second round of Dyno testing, (hopefully next month), the upgrades will include

Weiand Street Warrior Dual Plane intake manifold
Holley 4160 carburetor
Mr. Gasket open element air cleaner
Petronix HEI distributor
these Hooker Competition headers
Summit X 2.25" pipe dual exhaust

The goal is to see what is the horse power gain over stock / my first baseline of 190 if any.

When you get the distributor make sure you put some spacers on the gear end to take up the slack too. It'll help keep your timing better.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

When you get the distributor make sure you put some spacers on the gear end to take up the slack too. It'll help keep your timing better.

I know this has become a long thread, but I already did all these things, the distributor has been installed months ago, all that's left is the headers, going in today

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I know this has become a long thread, but I already did all these things, the distributor has been installed months ago, all that's left is the headers, going in today

Gotcha. Well then there better be a video when this is done

[Gregski]

decided this was as good a time as any to delete the charcoal canister, after all getting rid of it would also get rid of at least one of them three hard lines

and so I yanked it all out, including the long noodle evap hard line all in one piece, how impressive is that folks, JK

[Gregski]

now before we git into an argument why in the world would I remove the charcoal canister, lemme just say, betcha didn't realize it is hallow on the bottom?

ok, now lets have at it

[Gregski]

OK, with the evap fuel line removed and the others shoved out of the way got the passenger side long tube header installed

no major plug wire issues on this side like the #5 on the opposite side

bottom A arm has plenty of clearance too

[Chrispbrown36]

I was looking things over in my 87 today and it looks to me like getting headers in there might be a pain. The motor mounts look like they will hit them. I was wondering about the legality of removing the emissions crap that goes into the manifolds. Since obviously the tubes in the manifold will be removed when you put the headers on it obviously the egr thingy will not be hooked up correctly. So, if you live in a state or area that requires emission testing will it pass? Being in California I am sure you have to deal with it.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by chrispbrown36

i was looking things over in my 87 today and it looks to me like getting headers in there might be a pain. The motor mounts look like they will hit them. I was wondering about the legality of removing the emissions crap that goes into the manifolds. Since obviously the tubes in the manifold will be removed when you put the headers on it obviously the egr thingy will not be hooked up correctly. So, if you live in a state or area that requires emission testing will it pass? Being in california i am sure you have to deal with it.

1974...

[Chrispbrown36]

He had the EGR tubes in the manifolds, which are part of emissions, and the charcoal canister. I understand he doesn't have all the crap I have but I am just curious how the headers will effect the inspections.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chrispbrown36

He had the EGR tubes in the manifolds, which are part of emissions, and the charcoal canister. I understand he doesn't have all the crap I have but I am just curious how the headers will effect the inspections.

no inspections for 1975 and older cars

[Chrispbrown36]

I did not realize that. I might be heading to an area that requires inspections and if I am not mistaken they require them to have all the original emissions crap no matter the age. I would have pulled it all off if it weren't for this.

[rich weyand]

Gregski: What I did with the 5/7 and 6/8 wires is reverse the looming on them. I bring 5 off in the 7 loom and go down and forward, and bring 7 forward to the 5 loom and then go down and back. This is with the Hooker 2453 (for K trucks) so not sure if you can do the same thing or not.

In this pic, on the back looming hooks, you would think the wires would be 1-3-5-7 counting out from the valve cover, but they're not. It's 1-3-7-5. So the 5 wire comes off first, goes down then forward, then the 7 wire comes off, goes down and back.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Gregski: What I did with the 5/7 and 6/8 wires is reverse the looming on them. I bring 5 off in the 7 loom and go down and forward, and bring 7 forward to the 5 loom and then go down and back. This is with the Hooker 2453 (for K trucks) so not sure if you can do the same thing or not.

In this pic, on the back looming hooks, you would think the wires would be 1-3-5-7 counting out from the valve cover, but they're not. It's 1-3-7-5. So the 5 wire comes off first, goes down then forward, then the 7 wire comes off, goes down and back.

Thank you Rich I may try something like that, though my noodles wrap around differently, my #1 pipe jumps over both the #3 and #5 pipes before dropping down, the wierd thing is, the passenger side is different, not sure why.

[Gregski]

had my two pipes exfoliated, at a muffler shop, $5 bucks to do both, I will give them my business again when I have a bigger job, very appreciative

got to watch how they did it, pretty cool machine, no idea how I could have given it that much force manually

[Gregski]

had to pick up a Header Bold Set, basically shorter bolts since the headers are less bulky, and smaller heads, 7/16 instead of 9/16

[Gregski]

after hours and hours of measuring, swearing, and trying different arrangements, in the end, cut 6" off the front side of the X with my trusty 4" angle grinder/cut off wheel and ran it the wider way, and 1 inch off the rear which I ran the shorter way

doing this as a one man circus act was NO fun!

[Gregski]

... after 14 long hours we were done !!!

and by WE I mean the Royal We, lol

so at 10:30 PM I fired her up for the first time...

Note: This included picking kid up from school, going to the muffler shop, and the auto parts house.

[rajincajintj]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I fired her up for the first time...

oooo

real vroom vroom noises are the best.

congrats man.

[Gregski]

speaking of that VHT paint I used on the headers, it says

After paint is completely dry it must be cured to substantially increase the durability of the finish and and enhance chemical resistance. Finish is not chemical resistant until cured.

there are 2 ways to cure them, Off The Vehicle and On The Vehicle

We focus on the On The Vehicle method.

• Run at idle for 10 minutes then cool for 20 minutes.
• Run at idle for 20 minutes then let cool for 20 minutes.
• Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes then let cool.

allow me to translate that for you...

[ahem] making a good header coating product is difficult, making a good header coating product in a ratlle can is impossible, but there is definately a need, and it can be very lucrative, so what if we make a mediocre product and put the onus on the car guy to screw things up by giving him ridiculous procedures first to read in fine print (cause we know no one does) and then to follow (again no one will) then if the results aren't what they expect, well they only have themselves to blame, heck maybe they'll even buy a second can to try it again

[cnorth]

now why do I need such a contraption when Rusty is a carburated, well you can tune a carburetor real good like if you know the exact precise air fuel ratio, so some day I would like to connect a permanent Air Fuel gauge and this way I will already have that provision[/QUOTE]

could you or someone explain what you are talking about here I've heard about these just not exactly sure of it

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by cnorth

could you or someone explain what you are talking about here I've heard about these just not exactly sure of it

Sure, so I plan on getting me one of these wideband (as opposed to narrowband) air fuel ratio gauges.

Narrowband only shows you Lean - Good - Rich states, where as a wideband displays the actual ratio number on a digital display ie 14.7

the one I plan on getting is a single gauge with two O2 (Oxygen sensors) connected to it. The O2 sensors get installed in the exhaust pipes after the exhaust manifolds or headers and before the catalytic converters if you got em.

Since I have a V8 engine with dual exhaust I want one sensor in each pipe so that I can see how balanced my banks of cylinders are. Is one running rich while the other side is running lean for example.

Here is one of the products, it is pretty expensive, this is not a cheap $20 dollar guage we are talking about here.

INNOVATE DLG-1: Dual Lambda (AFR) Gauge Kit
includes the DLG-1 gauge,
(2) Wideband oxygen O² sensors,
(2) 8 ft sensor cables,
LC-2 Wideband Controller,
(2) O² sensor weld-on bungs,
Black/Silver bezel,
Black/White faceplate,
Serial program cable,
& Installation manual.

P/N: 3891

MSRP $399

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/dlg1.php

[cnorth]

Ok so I've never seen the digital gauge like that reading both sensors, I'm guessing your going for more power and fuel efficiency with that setup.

you all ways do some cool stuff

[enaberif]

You can get FAR cheaper setups to use a Wideband. For example there is a company up in here in Canada that you can get the cabling and O2 sensor for $100 for one side. It obviously gets more expensive when you are running dual exhaust such as Gregg is as both sides need to be equal.

The funny thing is its a $300 part that you'll use once and then put it away because once your carb is tuned it should be pretty good forever.