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Old 04-18-2019, 06:30 PM   #1
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Special delivery today, couldn’t help but to go ahead and install the “easy” stuff:
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:47 PM   #2
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I like how the coils turned out. You have so much room with that intake, lol, it looks like a dream to work on compared to mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
As for the PCV fittings, yes, the “dirty” side will be baffled, using vacuum hose connected to the internal valvecover baffle (pictures of this coming soon). The “clean” side shouldn’t need to be baffled, as it will only be providing fresh air into the crankcase. I also decided to use Earl’s stat-o-seals (rubber o-ringed crush washers) on the fittings to help quell any oil leaks at the bulkhead pass-through.
I would baffle the clean side as well. Under certain conditions (WOT) it will pull a vacuum on that side. Its a smaller percentage of oil loss through the clean side but it will still make a mess over time.

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Old 04-18-2019, 09:35 PM   #3
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Do you have some sort of baffle on the valve cover fittings to keep oil from coming out through those fittings?
Here’s that info/pictures:

-6an bulkhead elbow with 3/8” barb adapters on both ends, then drilled/tapped the valve cover baffle for a 1/8” npt x 3/8” barb elbow, and connected them with a piece of 3/8” silicone hose held on with oetiker clamps. Pretty simple setup that I hope keeps the oil out of the PCV, if not it will just help keep the spark plugs lubricated
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:51 PM   #4
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Here’s that info/pictures:

-6an bulkhead elbow with 3/8” barb adapters on both ends, then drilled/tapped the valve cover baffle for a 1/8” npt x 3/8” barb elbow, and connected them with a piece of 3/8” silicone hose held on with oetiker clamps. Pretty simple setup that I hope keeps the oil out of the PCV, if not it will just help keep the spark plugs lubricated
That set-up clears everything ok? Hard to tell from my monitor.
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:08 PM   #5
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I like how the coils turned out. You have so much room with that intake, lol, it looks like a dream to work on compared to mine.



I would baffle the clean side as well. Under certain conditions (WOT) it will pull a vacuum on that side. Its a smaller percentage of oil loss through the clean side but it will still make a mess over time.
It’s still a bit of a nightmare back there, and I have yet to run the main engine harness, plug wires, or throttle cable...

Good point on the clean side, I may reassess
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Awesome work!!!
You've got a lot to be proud of!!
Thanks a lot, I’ll just be happy to get it running
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That set-up clears everything ok? Hard to tell from my monitor.
Yes, it tucks inside the valvecover completely, which is all well above the rockers on the LS. This would not work on an SBC at all
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:42 AM   #6
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

What I’ve been up to the last few days:

Tore down the original 3-on-the-tree steering column to gut all of the unused everything and take 8.25” of length out of it. This will help put the upper steering joint closer to the firewall, hopefully keeping my angles the way I want them and also clearing everything with the steering shaft.

Ended up deciding to cut my own DD into the end of the shaft as opposed to taking it to a machine shop. Measure twice, cut once, used an angle grinder and finished it off with a set of calipers and a file. Not too bad to do, just a little time consuming. Actually was a little therapeutic (and a little stressful). I will say if you attempt this, do not use the ididit instructions, as their measurements are way off (or I was just to dumb to figure them out)...

Also used a slick little piece from CPP, the “column saver”, which slips into the end of the column and has a bushing and thrust bearings for the shaft to ride on. Made figuring out how to terminate the hacked-off column a no-brainer.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:15 PM   #7
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Wow!
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:42 PM   #8
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Awesome work!!!
You've got a lot to be proud of!!
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:04 AM   #9
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

looks very nice,
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Old 04-23-2019, 12:48 AM   #10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstone View Post
I can relate to your "therapeutic" comment on that kind of work. It's nice to step outside of your day to day thoughts and saturate yourself into something that 99% of people will never even think twice about. My problem is I tend to do this on almost every task I undertake when it comes to my truck project. I admire some of these guys who just knock it out and move onto the next step. Great work as always Chris,
I’m the same way, I like to take my time and think it through, but I’m running outta time here. Appreciate the positive comments.
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looks very nice,
Thanks a lot!

Very happy with how the column turned out, once I figured out how to put it back together properly. Nice, tight, and smooth operation with no binding or weird noises. New turn signal switch, bearings, and grease and loctite in all the right places. It’s not an ididit, but at least I can say I did it

If anyone is wondering, the lower mounting bracket that normally is on the outside of the firewall is now on the inside, I simply cut, flipped, and welded it back together at the proper angle and it attaches to the same mounting holes, but from the other side.

Super happy with the way the comfort grip setup looks and the upper u-joint is tucked in about as far as I think it can go, now we’ll see if the steering shaft fits without rubbing anywhere
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Old 04-23-2019, 01:46 AM   #11
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I like the way your brain works! I've thought about modding a steering column like that before, but never got serious about it since I'm still running the stock gear box. Maybe I should upgrade to the No Limit R&P so I have an excuse to do this.
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Old 04-23-2019, 10:12 AM   #12
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I like the way your brain works! I've thought about modding a steering column like that before, but never got serious about it since I'm still running the stock gear box. Maybe I should upgrade to the No Limit R&P so I have an excuse to do this.
It’s such a minor thing, that no one will ever really notice, but I’m proud of the way it turned out. I just wish it was a tilt That NL rack would have sure saved me a TON of time on this project
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:20 PM   #13
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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It’s such a minor thing, that no one will ever really notice, but I’m proud of the way it turned out. I just wish it was a tilt That NL rack would have sure saved me a TON of time on this project
The little things that nobody notices is the stuff that I love, especially if they can keep it looking stock while upgrading the functionality.

The NL rack seems like it would have saved a ton of time until you realize that you would have been re-engineering everything else to get it to work well together like the PB stuff does.
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Old 04-23-2019, 03:33 PM   #14
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Curious, still have the hole where the shift lever was? Looks good man, I will probably do same now with bracket thanks for the idea.

The hole was shaven by a PO using JB Weld or something similar, not the best, but it works well enough until I decide I want to paint it again. For now, that part of the collar is rotated down where it’s not readily visible
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The little things that nobody notices is the stuff that I love, especially if they can keep it looking stock while upgrading the functionality.

The NL rack seems like it would have saved a ton of time until you realize that you would have been re-engineering everything else to get it to work well together like the PB stuff does.
Agreed, instead I’m re-engineering the whole truck to fit the PB parts
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:24 PM   #15
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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The hole was shaven by a PO using JB Weld or something similar, not the best, but it works well enough until I decide I want to paint it again. For now, that part of the collar is rotated down where it’s not readily visible

Agreed, instead I’m re-engineering the whole truck to fit the PB parts :lol:
And improving things is a problem somehow?

I actually have been considering this shortening mod w/an old automatic van tilt I have had for y e a r s..... I figured it would be worth a shot so I could get a better angle to the PB placed R&P under-hood by getting it closer to the firewall while also getting it closer to the dash @ the same time on the inside.

Appreciate sharing the parts/pieces related info for sure.
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Old 04-23-2019, 01:33 PM   #16
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Curious, still have the hole where the shift lever was? Looks good man, I will probably do same now with bracket thanks for the idea.

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Old 04-24-2019, 01:53 PM   #17
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I'm sure you already know this but just in case we have a member #70shortfleet that rebuilds these columns. His price was half the cost of an IDIDIT or FlamingRiver column and its OEM. I had to pick and choose my battles for time sake otherwise I would have rebuilt mine but since mine was 3 on the tree like gringo's here I figured this was my best option to gain tilt He does a great job, top notch professional. And his shipping methods include some of the best "Made in USA" packing I have ever seen lol. I'm 6'5 so he shortened my column for me, added the cruise control lever, tilt column, added the automatic shift indicator, and painted it gloss black for me. It includes the rubber grommets but you use your original brackets and hardware and of course brake signal switch if needed.

Few pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CqZ5PzurLU2oUxHVA

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Old 04-29-2019, 12:46 AM   #18
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Been chipping away at installation of some parts: headers are in with new gaskets and hardware, steering shaft is in and clearing everything, fuel and brake hard lines are plumbed, and I spent some time building custom plug wires. I feel like it’s starting to come together and if I don’t manage to break anything important, this thing might just start soon
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:57 AM   #19
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

...and since most of the things I needed to access under hood are complete, I hung the core support, fenders, and hood.

The All-American Billet hinges pretty much fell into place and work like a dream. They don’t open as wide as the stockers, but plenty to stick my head in and work on stuff. Also, plenty of clearance for the Hill’s inner fenders, as indicated by the closed pic with the template marked in sharpie. Overall, pretty satisfied...
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:10 AM   #20
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I've been waiting to see those hinges go on. I'm glad they are going to clear the Hill's fenders. Can't wait to see this thing on the road around here! When do you need to have it loadable for the move?
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:25 AM   #21
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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...When do you need to have it loadable for the move?
23 May we hit the road, so I have but a few precious weeks. This is starting to feel like your thrash for Power Tour
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:33 AM   #22
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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This is starting to feel like your thrash for Power Tour
Which is starting again. I have much less to do this year though and there isn't anything that is being done that will stop it from making the trip this time.
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:16 AM   #23
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Nice work! Are you going to run wire looms to keep the wires off the exhaust manifolds? 3 weeks to get it running so you can drive it onto the trailer!!!
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:56 AM   #24
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
Nice work! Are you going to run wire looms to keep the wires off the exhaust manifolds? 3 weeks to get it running so you can drive it onto the trailer!!!
Thanks! They are loomed, sort of, I used the stock style plastic clips. The wires do not come near touching anywhere right now and the headers are ceramic coated, so fingers crossed they will be ok. I do like the idea of the rail type separators and if this doesn’t work out, I’ll probably go that route.

Yup, 3 weeks to go, and this isn’t the only iron in the fire
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:14 PM   #25
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Fingers are crossed for success..... Best of luck!
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