Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Nut Case

Dan

This great to watch, the darker red is fandamtastic.

Please take a pic of the shock mount to the bottom mount on the LCA with your next batch.

Thanks in advance.

Keep on keepin on.

NC

Will do Nut Case. I'm heading over to the shop sometime today to see i they're working.

[MBrown]

Dan, are you using the coilovers from Flat-out? I read in one article about there being a clearance issue with the spring and frame? Has your builder tried those yet? Post up if he has with the answer fo how they fit, please. I have my crossmember in and and the rack but no further.

Thanks,
Mark

[58CameoAZ]

I have the Alden Eagle coil overs on my truck and they do hit the frame and what I did was grind out the top edge of the frame and weld the opening shut, their is a guy on the net who explains this and it is what I did with mine.grinding it out puts a slight scoop in the frameand gives the coil a relief to move.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yes, I'm using the coil overs provided by Flat Out. I think they're even shown in one of my photos above but I havent seen them installed. In fact I don't think they have been even on a trial basis during the initial fabrication so if there is a conflict with the frame rail we don't know about it.

Not sure I really like the idea of another notch in the frame, but if its a big expense to go to a different coilover (if there IS one that doesnt conflict) then it may be worth it but with the frame freshly powder coated I'm REALLY not going to want start cutting on it.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 58CameoAZ

....what I did was grind out the top edge of the frame and weld the opening shut, their is a guy on the net who explains this....

Any chance you have a link?

[MBrown]

Here is the link I saw while researching my build: http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a..._Article_1.pdf

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the link. Looks like a very old article though.

I HOPE that Flat Out has long since fixed the issue (so I don't have to!) but we'll check into it. Thanks again. I will post about it one way or the other.

[slyfry]

I can verify that the Alden Eagle coil overs do indeed hit the frame with the Flat Out kit as I just got done installing that setup in my 57. I did the notch in the frame just like the article shows.

Don

[58CameoAZ]

Mine hit too but i did not put that big of a relief in the Frame, I just ground the edge of the frame were the coil touched and welded the split in the frame back up.
I got this tip from Jim (Gotmotors) as he did the same to his frame.

Allen

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by slyfry

I can verify that the Alden Eagle coil overs do indeed hit the frame with the Flat Out kit as I just got done installing that setup in my 57. I did the notch in the frame just like the article shows.

Don

Well this news sucks because obviously we thought all the fab work was done. Otherwise we wouldn't have sent the frame for sandblasting and powdercoating. I'm checking on progress later today so I'll discuss with Mike and see if he was aware and took steps to eliminate this in some way.

There is another TF truck in the shop (the twin turbo 1000 hp one I posted about before) that is ahead of mine and also has the Flat Out cross member. I don't recall seeing this notch on it and it was fully assembled and sitting on four wheels.

I'll let you guys know what I find out later.

[slyfry]

I'm sure the smaller relief like Allen and Jim did would work fine, I just figured for piece of mind I did the bigger relief (have about 1" clearance all around the spring)
It's possible your builder moved the upper shock mount out farther, but then it gets awful close to the upper A arms.

[58CameoAZ]

Hey Dan, I know you just powder coated your frame,and this probably does not put you at
ease, but i would think your guy could grind the edge of the frame and Tig weld the corner just enough for the relief, Paint it Black to match and you probably would never know it was done as it is behind the coil and you probably would never see it, Just saying here,
and hope your guy has you already covered!
Bottom line is, you are going to have a GREAT Looking Truck regardless of the situation!!!
Allen

[slyfry]

Looking back through your thread I see the upper shock mount is out a bit farther than mine, so I would say that your builder has taken the size of the spring into account and positioned the upper mount for proper clearance.

I think you have no worries here, but never hurts to ask............

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thursday, February 16, 2016

Today's reassembly progress:

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 58CameoAZ

Hey Dan, I know you just powder coated your frame,and this probably does not put you at
ease, but i would think your guy could grind the edge of the frame and Tig weld the corner just enough for the relief, Paint it Black to match and you probably would never know it was done as it is behind the coil and you probably would never see it, Just saying here,
and hope your guy has you already covered!
Bottom line is, you are going to have a GREAT Looking Truck regardless of the situation!!!
Allen

Hi Allen,
Yeah I'm sure it will be fixable and not noticeable if this is necessary to do to my frame buti'll admit it kinda pisses me off. I won't let Mike know I'm unhappy about it because he has been so good doing all the things I asked including a couple times when I made last minute changes and not charging me extra hours for it.

It seems unlike him to miss something like this - so I'm hoping he didn't in some way - but a thought occurred to me. Pardon my ignorance here but would it work to simple install the coilovers upside down? I assume it wouldn't work right, not to mention it would look like whoever did it was clueless, but I have to ask.

EDIT:
Slyfry, I must have been typing while you posted. Hopefully you're right!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Monday, February 20, 2017

The engine and transmission are back in, tightened down with castellated nuts that are cotter keyed. I guess that means it's STAYING in now! The trans crossmember wasn't bolted in yet, but probably was after I left.


I checked the clearance on the Aldan coilovers and there is plenty of clearence - 1/4 to 3/8" and this is at full sag. It won't hit, WHEW! I took a photo holding the phone in one hand and the shock with the other, so kinda a bad photo.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I forgot to mention that the rearend happened to have the cover off when I got to the shop. They were about to bolt down the Moser aluminum cover I got for it when I asked about the final drive ratio. It was 2.73 - no bueno.

I don't intend to be a stoplight-to-stoplight drag racer, but I also don't want the truck to be a slug off the line either. With about 330hp and 350 ft/lbs of torque I want to have it available to me!

Mike wasn't in but I discussed ratios with two of his guys and I could go with 3.55's or 3.73's. The consensus (from their experience, not mine) is that since my engine is naturally aspirated, has an overdriven 4th gear, and I will be going with 17" rims I could like go with these much lower gears and still turn only 2000 rpm or maybe a bit less at 80 mph. I don't intend to drive this truck on long highway trips more than once or twice a year when I go north to visit my granddaughter 220 miles away. Opinions appreciated.

[G&R's57GMC]

I've got 3.73 gears with 30" tires on my Tahoe and it turns just under 2000 rpm at 65 mph in o.d.

On my Caprice I had 2.45 gears with 26.5 " tires and I couldn't use over drive below 70 mph , then it would turn 1500 rpm at 70.

3.73 would be my choice .

On my project I've got 4.10 gears with 28" tires . I may go with 29" rear tires or install my Gear Vendors behind the 4L60E. I was planning to tow with it but plans changed after I chose the 4.10 gears.

[Nut Case]

Dan

If you need to touch up the powder coating there is a paint that is referred to as "implement paint" you reduce it with naphtha. I have used this for years on the trailers that I have built, it's like iron once cured. It has remained a semi-gloss black on a little single axle trailer that I built over 20 years ago, this trailer has spent all it's time outside. It's what farmers have used for a long time on there field equipment.

Hope this helps. When you get a chance please photo the bracket on the LCA that is between the LCA and the shock.

I sure Mike is trying to do his best, he probably has not done very many C-4 IFS.

Dude it's coming together, looking good.

Keep on keepin on

NUT CASE

[Dan in Pasadena]

Nut Case,
Thanks for the advice. There are few to no "implements" in Southern California because there are no farms! For the longest time I'd read guys online talking about Tractor Supply stores but thought there weren't any of them here. Turns out there's one 125 miles away near Santa Barbara. Not sure if there's any "implement" paint available here but I'll keep your tip in mind, thanks again.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

I've got 3.73 gears with 30" tires on my Tahoe and it turns just under 2000 rpm at 65 mph in o.d.

On my Caprice I had 2.45 gears with 26.5 " tires and I couldn't use over drive below 70 mph , then it would turn 1500 rpm at 70.

3.73 would be my choice....

Glen,
From a chart I found online I think my tire height will be in the 25-26 inch range, possibly 26.25."
I have to go with 17" rims to clear my calipers (VERY few rim & tire options available in 16's anymore) and it looks like there is even greater tire selection in 18's than 17's. I don't like the "fork lift tire" look - the very low profile sidewall the larger diameters tend to come in. I also want a fairly wide wheel/tire in the back, perhaps 275 to 295. There are some 275/40's that are made by BFG, Continental & Nitto. I have no experience with Nitto but I'll read reviews before I pull the trigger ordering them.

[G&R's57GMC]

Take a look at http://www.tirerack.com . Go by tire size button , enter say 275 60 17 it will bring up a bunch of tires that size . Then select oh say the Hankook then click on it then on specs it will show that size and anything else in that tire in the spec charts.

The 275 60 17 is the size I have on my Tahoe , it's 30" .

My concern is if it will tuck up in the fender without the wheel back spacing being just right.

I've got 31 10.5 tires on my '56 and 8" white spoke wheels and they will rub the fender when loaded because of the std. backspace.

All that said don't buy wheels and tires until you have measured twice then a third time. You will need to be sure what will work and look good.

As for looks , 26" tires would look lost in the fender opening .

[Kim57]

Dan
There's a Tractor Supply in Norco.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/?cm_mmc...-Google-_-1750
A little closer than Santa Barbara.
Kim

[MBrown]

Dan, I bought an 8.8 in 3.55 for my 59 with an LS and 4L65E , I think that is going to be about perfect. Your mileage may vary, looks like your builders has the upper shock mount at the same location as mine, just not sure that is adequate clearance. But I don't have a ton of experience with coilovers either.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Nut Case

Dan

This great to watch, the darker red is fandamtastic.

Please take a pic of the shock mount to the bottom mount on the LCA with your next batch.

Thanks in advance.

NC

Nut Case,
Here you go, as requested and from both sides. Let me know if it shows whatever you needed to see.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Tuesday, January 22, 2017

Several things happened today:

#1 The R&P were pulled from the rearend and Robby was in process of installing/setting up the 3.73's. This oughta give me a little more umph. Pleased they got right on it.


#2 I decided to have the stock cam swapped for an LS7 cam (most likely). According to Mike this should make about 80 more horsepower and more torque taking my engine from about 330 to about 410 hp. Torque from about 350-360 to about 440 ft/lbs. All without changing highway mileage of about 22-23mpg .... PROVIDED I don't stick my foot through the floor board too many times, of course. Lol.
But seriously, Mike has built a LOT of LS engines of various types in both naturally aspirated and forced induction modes. The engine is already set up with Z06 exhaust manifolds and Holley aftermarket induction so there will be no other mods necessary to support the swap other than going to double valve springs. The LS9 cam is slightly better according to him IF I ever decide to go turbocharged in the future....I doubt it. The LS7 cam is slightly better suited to a naturally aspirated engine. I'm excited about this and its just one more example of the slippery slope these builds can lead to.

#3 I made the final selection of color today after seeing this sample panel:


It's Honda Milano Red. Both ends of the panel are the same color but the top has six coats of clear on it, the bottom only 3. Yes, it has a lot of orange peel. It hasn't been color sanded/polished and won't be - it's just a sample afterall.