Daverods project 66

[bubba327]

I cannot tell by your picture of the crossmember but it appears similar to mine I just installed in the 64 . My TH350 sits on the rubber brace about 1" thick but I have not checked motor / trans angles.
I drilled and welded a 1/2 I.D. pipe through my crossmember before installing it to use as a E-brake anchor point and fabbed up the rest of the E-brake parts

[daverod]

That looks just like my cross member. Have you put a level on your carb to see if it's level? With 2 shims my carbs close to level and my trans is at 5.5*. I'm going to get a couple more shims today.
Went to the junk yard no shims. Whats up with that. I had two sitting in my garage. Also found a chevy 350 trans I did'nt even know I had. Guess I'll make some.
-2 on the 64's rear end. I'm thinking thats as low as you can go with static stuff.

[bubba327]

My magnetic angle finder (like yours) is on my service truck at work, I will bring it home Monday and check angles.
Just a rough once-over tonight with a torpedo level shows that my engine is lower in the rear.It is hard to say how much at this time.
I had to measure off the valve cover of the inline 6 cylinder as the carb is 1 barrel monojet right now and too small to balance the level. My driveway has a negative fall , the bed of the truck is removed and new rear springs and tires have it tail high right now. taking all that in-- it still looks lower to the rear of the motor.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by bubba327

My magnetic angle finder (like yours) is on my service truck at work, I will bring it home Monday and check angles.
Just a rough once-over tonight with a torpedo level shows that my engine is lower in the rear.It is hard to say how much at this time.
I had to measure off the valve cover of the inline 6 cylinder as the carb is 1 barrel monojet right now and too small to balance the level. My driveway has a negative fall , the bed of the truck is removed and new rear springs and tires have it tail high right now. taking all that in-- it still looks lower to the rear of the motor.

I read the engine tilts back but the manifold on a v8 is made to account for the tilt. Thats why the carb sits level and the transmission is at 4*. I'm not sure about a 6. I was looking at trans mounts. Brothers has one that is taller they even say it works ideal for the new crossmember. All I saw was the $39 price tag the rubber one was $9. You know which one I bought. Made some shims. It's all good.

[bubba327]

How does the carb stay level when you are playing with the the bags and doing wheel hops or one side down and one side up????
seriously i think the driveline yolk angle is all you need to watch.. the drive line needs to be offset or angled . Anything but spinning true and straight yoke to yoke. the U-joints will not last long.
There are several threads on here about driveline angles

[daverod]

Originally Posted by bubba327

How does the carb stay level when you are playing with the the bags and doing wheel hops or one side down and one side up????
seriously i think the driveline yolk angle is all you need to watch.. the drive line needs to be offset or angled . Anything but spinning true and straight yoke to yoke. the U-joints will not last long.
There are several threads on here about driveline angles

Accually they don't work if everything is straight. The needle bearing in the ujoints wont spin. You want some angle just not a lot. So far as the carb being level I dont think thats to imporant but the trans mission being a 4* is. When compared to the rest of the drive line set up that angle doesn't really change when you are messing with the bags. I've been reading. I hope I'm learning. But you already knew all that. I read what you said wrong. It's not as if I'm going to be putting 15 to 20,000 mile a year on it anyway.

[watahyahknow]

there some special yokes available for off road aplications that can still operate under extreme angles maibe thats an idea

[ruffrida2005]

Looking good Dave.

For the angle of the dangles he's the ? you need to ask. Are you running a 1 or 2 peice driveshaft? If a 1 peice. The trans needs to sit at 3* Down and the Pinion on the diff needs to be at 3* up. With that being said you man run into problems running your exhaust with your crossmember if you move it up. If you just shim it up you'll be fine.

You may have to cut the trans tunnel up a little more not sure since the trans is going to be sitting higher up now.

I cant really tell you about a 2 peice drive shaft.

If you dont want to shim it up then you can run a CV joint off the trans that will give the drive shaft more flex and take out the vibration of not having the correct angles.

All this info is coming from Jason and Nate, so you can ask more queistions about it. Also take a look at my thread or Creeps and you'll find that info on there from Nate.

[daverod]

I'm doing a two piece.

[ruffrida2005]

If I'm not wrong either Bazooka or Creep is doing a 2 peice so I would check with them. or even PM Nate he's always willing to help.

[daverod]

[scotts62]

yeah but then you do like i do all the time and leave what you were needing at work

[daverod]

Sometimes I really wish I had air tools. Someday.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by scotts62

yeah but then you do like i do all the time and leave what you were needing at work

I guess I should have said I need big a$$ air compressor at home, with all the tools that go with it.

[scotts62]

Originally Posted by daverod

I guess I should have said I need big a$$ air compressor at home, with all the tools that go with it.

There ya go now your talkin!

[bubba327]

Geez Dave If we split the cost of the tools it would not be too bad .. the killer part would be the 300 miles of air line we would need to share stuff .
I hope you did not Jinx my compressor.......... it started making strange noises today and seemed to take a long time to reach pressure..kinda sounded like the valves might be going bad .
It has every right to quit... it is an old Montgomery -Wards working on it's second tank. The first tank finally rusted out

[daverod]

Put a new filter and seal on my transmission. Bought a new flex plate. Learned why you put a fuse in the line going to the choke.

[daverod]

Today started off sucking and went down hill from there. Piece of metal got suck in my carb. took it off and cleaned the jet out. Forgot to hook the choke wire back up.smoke: Went for a test drive. Smoke was so thick could'nt see out the window. Fixed that. Then I tried to remove what I thought was the seal in my "old transmission". By the time I figured out it was'nt the seal I was changing it was to late. Good thing I had a extra trans. Any ideas of what I did to the "old trans".

[scotts62]

Holy crap what did you pull out of there its guts??

[daverod]

Originally Posted by scotts62

Holy crap what did you pull out of there its guts??

To tell you the truth I don't know what I pulled out. It started with a screw driver and ended with vise grips and a hammer. What ever is in back is the seal is ah, half hanging out.

[scotts62]

LMAO

Was it the bushing in the pump?

[daverod]

Easy fix or not so easy.

[scotts62]

if its the bushing you just need to find something to drive it in there without kinking it but if it something more then im not sure.. ill look at one of my trannys at the shop and see what you pulled out

[ruffrida2005]

looks like you just pulled the guts of the seal out. Go get another one and put it in.

[watahyahknow]

check the converter too maibe it has a groove in it causing the new seal to get ripped too ....... there sleeves available to repair that