Help a NOOB - A continuing saga

[AussieinNC]

Did you order the o ring for the sender unit? Some senders come with them,some dont...

If you look online at say LMC parts manual, they show the shape of the lines...your truck has the return line back from the pump as well as the vapor line...so a 72 style set will do the job...

Small differences in shape really wont make a difference.

The gas smell in the truck should be reduced but will never really be eliminated.

When you get the truck running right, make yourself up a thin ply cover to go over the tank area and cover it in carpet...there are replacement cardboard panels available but making a cover out of say 1/4" tru ply luan will work out better in long run.

To totally eliminate gas smell in the cab, you could have removed both saddle tanks and the cab tank and added an aftermarket tank in the rear of the truck...but that in itself is a large undertaking...

You will get there soon...and then it will be on to the next item on the list.

[Steeveedee]

A lot of times the gas smell in the cab is from a bad gas cap seal on the in-cab tank.

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Did you order the o ring for the sender unit? Some senders come with them,some dont...

I am pretty sure I ordered the o-ring, and a new clamp collar.

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

If you look online at say LMC parts manual, they show the shape of the lines...your truck has the return line back from the pump as well as the vapor line...so a 72 style set will do the job...

Small differences in shape really wont make a difference.

Looks like I need to select 5/16 or 3/8, which I did not measure last night

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

The gas smell in the truck should be reduced but will never really be eliminated.

When you get the truck running right, make yourself up a thin ply cover to go over the tank area and cover it in carpet...there are replacement cardboard panels available but making a cover out of say 1/4" tru ply luan will work out better in long run.

To totally eliminate gas smell in the cab, you could have removed both saddle tanks and the cab tank and added an aftermarket tank in the rear of the truck...but that in itself is a large undertaking...

I have always thought I'd like to do the gas tank conversion, and now may have been a good time. But I thought the same thing about how much harder/longer that would take. I want to get other things squared away, and back on the road soon.

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

You will get there soon...and then it will be on to the next item on the list.

Not soon enough! And the fact that there is always a "next item on the list" is going to get old in a hurry if it continues to mean spending $$$ like this.

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

A lot of times the gas smell in the cab is from a bad gas cap seal on the in-cab tank.

I bought a new cap within the last year (after experiencing gas sloshing out during a right turn). But I did not know at the time that there were vented and unvented types. I have no idea if I bought the right replacement.

[Steeveedee]

If you have a vapor canister under the hood, you should have an unvented cap. The fuel vapors go to the canister for later consumption by the engine.

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

If you have a vapor canister under the hood, you should have an unvented cap. The fuel vapors go to the canister for later consumption by the engine.

Yeah, that's what I've learned here since. I just don't know what kind I bought. Didn't know there were vented/unvented until learning it from the folks here. Can I tell by blowing on it or something? I looked up the part and it is a Stant 10572 but I can't find anywhere that says what type it is.

[Steeveedee]

Looking at the O'Reilly's website, this cap is listed as "emissions control", so it is not vented. If you have a vapor recovery system (canister under the hood near the battery), you got the correct cap.

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Looking at the O'Reilly's website, this cap is listed as "emissions control", so it is not vented. If you have a vapor recovery system (canister under the hood near the battery), you got the correct cap.

Excellent! Got lucky, thanks for looking it up. All I could find seemed like generic text, never said vented/not.

Thanks!

[ncpetersc]

The part I thought I would get last (the tank) showed up first. But everything eventually arrived today. Just installed the sending unit in the tank. Old tank still needs to be removed and cab cleaned up, but it looks like I might be rained out all night. (Truck is in driveway).

I got three o-rings, so if anyone wants one, let me know, I have two extra. Got one with tank, one with sending unit, and one with new clamp collar I bought.

Also have an extra clamp collar if anyone needs, one came with tank.

Right or wrong I bent the sending unit fuel tube slightly. It was pressing hard against tank when positioned, which I thought would be the "wrong" direction to keep it sealed against the o-ring. Not much, just a tweak.

Tried to shine up the old paint the last few nights, while waiting for parts. I think the bug shield is going to have to go. But that truck had it forever...

[AussieinNC]

Glad to hear your parts arrived in good condition...

That little tweak to the sender is usual..they all bind a little if you dont...remember to leave at least tank mount point in the cab clear of paint and nice and shiny clean...use sandpaper to remove old paint and rust...the sender unit needs the tank to have a good ground to work correctly.

That truck is looking really sweet...the bug deflector is period correct...some like em, some dont...its your truck...run what you like...

The " to do list" is just that...all vehicles need periodic maintenance...sad that nowadays it seems so many people ignore basic repairs simply because they dont know how...

Making a list is my way of not forgetting things to do...doesnt have to be all done now...but safety items always take priority...

You are doing great...

and thanks for keeping us all in the loop...

[dmjlambert]

That's progress. Bug shield looks like something I would need here in the Houston area. Interesting.

[AussieinNC]

I thought most Tx trucks came standard with cow horns across the top of the hood!!!!

I used to live in Houston,,,would need a bigger deflector for some of those Tx sized bugs...

hahaha...

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

I thought most Tx trucks came standard with cow horns across the top of the hood!!!!

I used to live in Houston,,,would need a bigger deflector for some of those Tx sized bugs...

hahaha...

[ncpetersc]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

and thanks for keeping us all in the loop...

It's for my own benefit. I need to be thanking all of you for guiding me down the right path...

THANKS!

[slikside]

Make sure you replace all rubber hoses anywhere you find them...especially in the cab. Mine were seeping, and the raw gas smell was pretty strong. It has been eliminated by simply replacing all those short sections of hose in the cab. There's atleast a couple more under the cab at the frame rail where tank lines meet the frame lines going forward under the hood. And more to the fuel pump. Hose is inexpensive too. No reason not to.

[ncpetersc]

Okay, so tank was removed yesterday, I still want to clean up the cab some before installing the new one.

Don't yell at me for not listening, all advice is duly noted, and added to a to-do list. But I think I am going to use existing lines for now at least. I still never got comfortable that I was looking at the right ones, plus I'd really like to get it put back together and fired up again. New sock, in-line filter, and filter at carb when it's back together, so going with that for now.

Filler neck grommet: I've read posts where they can apparently be easily installed with tank installed. But I am currently thinking replace it before the tank. It should be easier without the neck there, meaning less risk of nicking paint or something. Any thoughts? Will neck push through the new grommet without much trouble with some soap or something?

With the tank out got a good look at the back lower cab corners. They were filled with crud, but I honestly think they are better off than they could be. Not skilled or knowledgeable in anyway with bodywork stuff, I am not going to do anything really at this point. But I was wondering if spraying rust converter in them was a good idea? Also, is there anything I could put in there as a preventative measure that would absorb moisture? Even a little kittty litter or something?

Attaching picks of empty cab and some close ups of the corners.

Thanks again!

[bMr]

Anything that would hold moisture, such as kitty litter, is actually working against you in this instance. Treat the area with a rust converter or neutralizer prior to a good coat of paint. Lots of great epoxy paint products are out there for covering rusted areas (POR 15 is one), some are available locally while some are interweb only. For unseen areas I've had decent luck with naval jelly followed by a good quality spray paint.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_t...-dissolver.htm

Great progress!

[AussieinNC]

Ditto on the great progress....

Those cab corners look really good compared to most...

Clean em out, vacuum, the hit them rust convertor spray paint...

Remember to keep at least one tank mount point clean of paint for good grounding...

Check those seat belt bolts and webs while you have access to them...

Re fuel hard lines...remember its your truck and we all make our recommendations...its not that we insist you have to do this or that..the filters should keep any crud out of the carb...if you start having clogged filters...well then you know the hard lines need changing...

Great progress...have fun...

[ncpetersc]

Thanks guys, I just wrestled the new tank in. Not bolted down yet, will make sure there is a good ground before I do. Going to get a can of the rust converter tomorrow to spray the corners.

Hopefully I can fire it back up tomorrow.

Thanks again for everyone's help and advice!

[AussieinNC]

Duplicolor and Rustoleum are both good products and available from local auto parts..

[ncpetersc]

A small update:
The tank is in, and the seat is back in.

The tank certainly wasn't an exact fit, and suffered some small damage on a corner during shipping I think. But with some careful bending of the corner, some minor bending to hard lines to line up better with sending unit, I was able to find the bolt holes and get them all started while leaning in on the tank a good bit. I think everything should be fine. I also had to drill a hole in the top to mount the clip that holds my fuel and return lines, no big deal.

My gas cap doesn't fit this tank. so I'll have to figure out a suitable replacement. Also no big deal, I'll take some measurements to the parts store and find one that works.

So here's where I am at:
New tank, new sending unit, new inline filter, new filter in carb, old lines (except new rubber at tank for sending unit). Same old carb that exhibited the flooding in the video I had up on youTube. I have a newly rebuilt carb at the ready. Oil change is needed due to potential fuel contamination from severely flooding carb.

Do I add gas and fire it up first with old carb and no oil change just to make sure I am back together properly, and check for leaks?

Do I try to see if the existing carb is fixable next, by taking the top off like some had suggested earlier? Or do I just skip that and put the new carb on?

Would it be correct to assume that I need to wait to do oil change until existing carb issues are rectified, or the new carb is installed? Or was the fuel due to the more severe flooding issues I had prior to now? And the existing carb not flooding "bad" enough to contaminate the oil.

I am going to open up the new one to check what gaskets it came with. If I mess with the existing carb would replacing the gasgets at the manifold pretty much be mandatory every time you remove it?

Thanks again all!

[dmjlambert]

The carburetor should have been put on with dry gaskets, no RTV or other sealant. If that was done then you don't need a fresh gasket if the old one is in good condition.

I recommend change the oil and put the new carburetor on there, then try starting it.

I recommend don't take top off of the carburetor while it is installed on the engine. Remove the entire carburetor, keep track of bolts and cotter pins, etc. and immediately cover up the intake hole so nothing falls down in there. Then take the old carburetor to a workbench and work on it later.

[ncpetersc]

Just another pic with the seat back in. Interior looks so much nicer, I should have really cleaned it up a long time ago. New carpet someday, but so many more important things to take care of.

[ncpetersc]

Okay, well I am back, with yet more questions.

I was just outside looking at my old carb and new making sure they look alike, and they do. I was taking a closer look at what I have to remove.
Probably:
Throttle cable
Kickdown cable (I think)
Two vacuum hoses
Idles stop solenoid and bracket
Then its just 4 bolts

The back drivers side bolt also holds a bracket for a spring in the throttle linkage I think.

Doesn't seem like a huge undertaking at all.

BUT
As I was looking it over I noticed something that I don't think is right, and am wondering if it could be a cause of my flooding woes. The little bar to move what I think would be the secondary throttle plates is interfering with the divorced choke cover. Another piece of linkage could possibly hit the cover as well.

I'm wondering if that plate is not being allowed to fully close, could this explain some of the flooding that is going on like shown in the youTube video?

It clearly doesn't look right, even though the choke seems to be mounted correctly to the manifold.

Any thoughts would be appreciated as usual! I am going to hold off on changing the carb for now I think. I was thinking I could take a similar video as before and check for fuel while idling. Then perhaps remove the choke to get rid of this interference and take another video to see if there is a change?

Any other ideas? Or just swap the carb you think?

THANKS

[ncpetersc]

Ooops forgot pictures...