The 283 Rebuild Begins

[TimE]

Sounds like 2 excellent reasons to me!! Looking forward to seeing it all installed.

[MacAttack]

Weather co-operated Saturday, so we got a chance to put the 65’ about three feet up in the air and drill the new hole pattern for TH350’s cross member’s new location - about 1.2" forward. Center drilled punched spots first - then ½ inch bit drilled clearance holes for the new 3/8-16 (grade-8) bolts, washers and nuts - with red ‘loctite’, just for good measure.

(Yes - I’ll have the pics by this weekend, so cork it!)

So all the heavy lifting is done and now comes the plumbing & small wires.

Can’t wait to annoy the neighbors with some new engine noise.

Mac.

[4dranch]

[quote=MacAttack;3161404]
(Yes - I’ll have the pics by this weekend, so cork it!)

[MacAttack]

Thought I’d beat you’all to the punch.

[jason65]

Are you implying that we would hound you for pics?

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by jason65

Are you implying that we would hound you for pics?

"Hound" as in rabid dogs running me (and anyone else) down for photos?

You bet.

Mac.

[joe231]

but guess what.....

[MacAttack]

* Gee - who didn’t see that coming?

[jason65]

[joe231]

just keeping it exciting and on the top for ya

[TimE]

[MacAttack]

What do you guys think about the 50/50 (already mixed) coolant?

And should I fill the block up (with the bottom hose on - of course) at the thermostat housing first - then put the thermostat in and drop the swivel type housing (with an "O" ring inside its base) with the upper hose on, prior to filling the rest of the radiator?

And finally - is it important that I should have my heater hoses connected upon initial light-up?

[protrash64]

I usually just run water at first. If there is an issue you wont watch your $$$$ running out on the ground. Glad to hear about the progress.

[jason65]

Why pay extra for water? But I would sure stay with the mean green.

[DPowers]

Since you put the TH350 in- What flexplate and starter are you using?

[FreeRideYZ250]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

What do you guys think about the 50/50 (already mixed) coolant?

And should I fill the block up (with the bottom hose on - of course) at the thermostat housing first - then put the thermostat in and drop the swivel type housing (with an "O" ring inside its base) with the upper hose on, prior to filling the rest of the radiator?

And finally - is it important that I should have my heater hoses connected upon initial light-up?

Filling the block up might not be a bad idea, have never done it myself.

Someone already stated about the 50/50 coolant mix, why pay extra for water? If you are running any aluminum cooling components, you might use de ionized water to mix with the coolant. We do that with dirtbikes, which are all aluminum motors. Slows down the corrosion factor.

You def. want your heater hoses connected, or plugged, as the there is always water circulating through them, I beleive.

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by protrash64

I usually just run water at first. If there is an issue you wont watch your $$$$ running out on the ground. Glad to hear about the progress.

Im quoting myself..... What I meant was, I use water first to start the engine and see if everything is working fine, even drive it for awhile. If its good drain it and put in whatever you plan on using for coolant.

I agree with YZ250, I use Hyperlube (Hypercool?)......looks like Mountain Dew.... for its corrosion fighting chemicals. There are a bunch of different types but they all fight chemicals eating aluminum. Ive usually gotten 2 gallon containers of distilled water from the grocery store to avoid corrosion.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by DPowers

Since you put the TH350 in- What flexplate and starter are you using?

Jeg's 168 tooth flexplate and stock NAPA starter (flat fit up - two bolts, with small leg brace).

Mac.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by FreeRideYZ250

You def. want your heater hoses connected, or plugged, as the there is always water circulating through them, I beleive.

10-4 on the hoses. BTW, I had one of these in my tool box and have never used it - just thought I'd give it a rip during the break-in on the driveway (just hope I've got enough vertical clearance:

[protrash64]

The pink will look good with your grey engine.

[MacAttack]

Fuel filter location question:

Before plumbing it to the motor I’d like to get some input on my options.

I’m using the hard canister type (polished, of course - cause that makes the truck go faster) but I don’t like putting it down on the frame rail, where the hard line dumps out - just behind the motor mount on the passenger side.

After seeing various engine fire photographs on our site - I’m not digging the idea of having it up on top of the engine - even if it’s easy access. I mean - how often do you need to change the thing in the first place?

My tank (stock - behind the seat, for convenient detonation) has been rehabbed and is as clean as when it came from the factory - so there’s no junk to worry about.

I’d like to put the filter in that short rubber line that runs directly from the tank to the hard line on the frame. Is there any reason that the fuel pump would have a problem pulling from there and sending it up to the 2-barrel?

[joe231]

the under cab location you described was exactly where our filter was before the tear down.....it ran great, no starvation issue

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by protrash64

The pink will look good with your grey engine.

Actually, that is Magenta. And I’m not gay - so save that noise.

Mac.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

Actually, that is Magenta. And I’m not gay - so save that noise.

Mac.

that is what all the guys wearing pink say

[4dranch]

There's so many things to say....I 'm just going to pass.