Yet another GMC build

[Dieselwrencher]

That tedious work will pay off in the end, so enjoy all that hard work now. It does look sweet with the grill installed. Great job!

[OKGMC4]

Making progress. More assembly, paint, and buffing. Two of my paint fixes didn't work so great so I may put 4 or 5 coats of clear on the whole back of the cab and sand it back to smooth. Means more work but it would be the right way to do it.

[Kim57]

That's looking real nice. I like the insert in the hood.
Kim

[bensimmons_05]

I haven't checked in for a while, I was glad to see some paint!! Great color choice (along with all of your other great choices) This is the FUN PART!!!

[BC Toy chest]

Ohhh man that looks good!

[OKGMC4]

I really appreciate all the positive words...I constantly worry I'm building the worst piece of junk on the road. I guess it's a first time build thing. I've had to learn to weld and paint, and more than likely will have to borrow a sewing machine and learn to stitch so I can put the interior together as well.

Making a little progress. I painted the mustache because it was fast and because it would save me $250 for spray chrome plus shipping to Dallas for an almost irreplaceable piece. Plus, I bet the spray chrome looks good but will it look good next to actual chrome parts? Now I can't decide whether to paint my old bumper or order a shiny chrome one from LMC. Tried repairing a bad spot in the paint this morning and ran the clear on the last coat in a place that I already sanded a run out of. If I havn't mentioned it...I almost hope I never paint another car in this lifetime but I know I probably will do it again anyway.

[hotrod1]

how did you make a booth? Any suggestions on that note?

[Spackle100]

I like what you did with the mustache, I'd put a chrome bumper on that bad boy.

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

how did you make a booth? Any suggestions on that note?

I taped up a ton of plastic on the walls. The heavy 6 mil stuff from Lowes. Then I got some of the light duty plastic and covered whatever didn't need paint in the middle of the garage. I have 3 box fans. Two are taped up under the garage door with 20 x 20 filters to pull air out and 1 is taped up with a 20 x 20 air filter on the side door to help pull air in. I had to tape every hole, seam, anywhere where dirt could get in. Then I had to clean the garage very well, about three times. And there's still a couple spots in the paint where either dust or bugs found their way in. Most of those cut and buff out but it still aggravates you.

All in all, though, it's still been WAY cheaper than forking it out. One shop quoted me 10K to paint it. I've gone through three gallons of primer, 1.5 gallons of sealer, 2 gallons of color, 2.5 gallons of clear plus reducers, activators, rubbing and polishing compound, etc. Still only cost around 1K, maybe a hair more. I'm trying to cook a steak on a burger budget!

[Rods57]

Looks great! I am in the same spot as far as painting not being my strong point but i cant afford the big $'s for a show car finish. that's also what makes this a great hobby is that guys like us can learn how to do this stuff and save big dollars. keep up the good work i makes us all keep going....

[OKGMC4]

I think I'm trying to get too much done at once...trying to install the wiring harness and going too slow. I did get the gauges mounted but not wired yet. I thought I'd try the chrome bumper and went with Classic parts instead of LMC as usual. Someone said they were cheaper and they were by a large margin. Ou to f the box I noticed it has two holes in the center, I assume for the tag bracket. Didn't really want that but figured, hey, I can just fill them with button head bolts. Took me almost two hours of working one bent bracket, elongating a hole in the other, going slow to not bang the bumper or the truck. Then while wiping the packing oil off it I found a chip in the chrome plating so I get to remove it find out how good Classics customer service is tomorrow.

[OKGMC4]

I've had a ton of questions about my cooling fan setup. If you google the mark 8 fan you can find a ton of info. These can be found in several lincoln mark 8s with the 32 valve engine. The trouble is that some are two speed and some are single speed and controlled by the ecm as needed(variable). They are sometimes hard to find and require a huge amp draw to run. The one I have is actually out of a tbird/ cougar with the 4.6 engine. They are all two speed with a slightly smaller motor. It pulls less amps this way so wiring it will be easier than the true lincoln fan. Many many tauruses also have powerful two speed fans and are super easy to find at the pull apart. The two speed fans have three wires instead of the normal two. Also...in my research for a heavy duty cheap relay setup I have found several of the 90's model volvos have a two speed fan as well...and they have a trick one piece fan relay designed to run a two speed fan. I got three of these at the salvage for $4 a piece. It's a good possibility that the volvo fan is better than most aftermarket fans. Factory stuff is just built better. I'm also looking into using a dual temp fan switch from BMW to control the relay that controls the fan. Still sorting this out but I'll post more later.

[Spackle100]

Looks awesome! Love that gauge cluster and chrome bumper!

[Kim57]

The gauges and bumper look real nice.
Kim

[OKGMC4]

Here's what I've come up with to run my two speed Tbird fan...

You have my old radiator hose adapter and my new one. In order to install the new BMW fan switch the new adapter had to be longer so it could be tapped to 14mm x 1.5 thread with a flat seat. You have to use a 14mm oil drain plug gasket to seal the switch.

The switch fits a 95 BMW 318i. It's available for $12 on RockAuto but after shipping it's $20. Autozone has it for $30 with a lifetime warranty and to me the warranty is worth it. I did, however, elect to have OReillys match the price because I don't like that other places electrical parts.

The plug is four parts that are available from BMW for $27.
61131378412 - plug housing
61130007445 - wire, small, x2
61130007446 - wire, large

Once the volvo fan relay is wired in this is how it's supposed to work...engine hits 195 and low speed comes on, then if it gets to 205 the high speed will come on until the temp hits 195 again. I'm wiring my compressor parallel to the low so the fan comes on when A/C triggered. There is an optional low temp switch(180/195) but I keep hearing how these LSx engines like to run hotter than a sbc. I like this setup because anyone can drive the truck with no worries. No special toggles to flip or special controllers to adjust.

I didn't do all this research myself so credit should be given here...

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=839089

and here...

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...41-taurus-fan/

Hope this helps someone!

[WIDESIDE72]

i have a 55 Chevy big window that has been half finished for about 20 yrs, since I was 15. I hope it looks 1/2 this good some day!

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

i have a 55 Chevy big window that has been half finished for about 20 yrs, since I was 15. I hope it looks 1/2 this good some day!

Thanks, I need all the ego boosting I can get. Means I don't have to take as many anti depressants! My biggest fear is to get frustrated and let it sit. Just want to drive it now, even if everything is not perfect.

[OKGMC4]

Something else I'm going to try...I robbed a set of door jamb switches from the same astro van I got my seat brackets from and put them in. If you drill the right size hole, GM jamb switches are actually self tapping. Very easy and when done my dome light will come on with an open door. Then I powered up my new dome light and it was disappointing how dim and yellow the stock bulb is in that thing. I measured the hole and figured I could get a 1x5 inch led panel in there. Found one (42 led board) on ebay for $10. Pull out the old bulb socket, drill four holes and use nylon bolts, spacers, and nuts, and now I'm going to have a super bright dome light.

[Rude Dude]

Do you have the ebay link to those LED panel?

Thanks

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

Do you have the ebay link to those LED panel?

Thanks

Here you go. I'm going to have to clearance the hole in the cab just a little where the nylon nuts come out on back but no biggie there. Also, I had to use the 1/16 spacers to keep the printed board and solder joints off the housing but it puts the LEDs real close to the lens. I don't think they should get hot enough to damage it, though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250960724832...84.m1497.l2649

[youngrodder]

OKGMC4-

Do you mind showing more pics like the back of the light to show why you have to clearance the cab. Aslso some detail on the plastic fasterns. How did wire the light? Did you have wire it in any special way.

Nice work.
Marc

[Wheelie]

That color is freakin awesome!

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

OKGMC4-

Do you mind showing more pics like the back of the light to show why you have to clearance the cab. Aslso some detail on the plastic fasterns. How did wire the light? Did you have wire it in any special way.

Nice work.
Marc

The nylon bolts are a number 4 machine screw. I got them with the nuts and spacers at Ace hardware. I needed to isolate the board from the metal light housing. I also had to raise the board up enough to clear the wires underneath. I got them extra long and once tight I cut the ends off and put a dab of gorilla glue on them to keep them tight. There are only two wires, red for 12v and black to ground. I probably could have used a smaller led panel but wanted it bright. Since the nuts stick out the back I had to open up four spots for them to sit in when the light is mounted to the cab.

[Roadkill58]

You should make sure you have sun glasses on when you open your door at night.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

The nylon bolts are a number 4 machine screw. I got them with the nuts and spacers at Ace hardware. I needed to isolate the board from the metal light housing. I also had to raise the board up enough to clear the wires underneath. I got them extra long and once tight I cut the ends off and put a dab of gorilla glue on them to keep them tight. There are only two wires, red for 12v and black to ground. I probably could have used a smaller led panel but wanted it bright. Since the nuts stick out the back I had to open up four spots for them to sit in when the light is mounted to the cab.

Thank you...I might try to do somehting simular for my 48.

Marc