Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed - Page 7 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

88Stanger · 05-09-2020, 04:20 PM

more with the new Rear Disc Brakes and then onto a full roller!!!

88Stanger · 05-09-2020, 04:22 PM

Full Roller now... still some work to do, but it it movable now!!

88Stanger · 05-09-2020, 04:24 PM

few with Ruler to see how low it is.
Currently there is 0 air in bags and it is on the rubber snubs front and rear

SCOTI · 05-09-2020, 07:29 PM

Happy w/it?

88Stanger · 05-09-2020, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Happy w/it?

so far, yes i am

SCOTI · 05-09-2020, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

so far, yes i am

It's lookin good. Glad you're happy.

88Stanger · 05-09-2020, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

It's lookin good. Glad you're happy.

thank you sir, for all your help to date!! I really appreciate it

SCOTI · 05-10-2020, 02:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

thank you sir, for all your help to date!! I really appreciate it

Glad to partake 🤓👍

88Stanger · 05-10-2020, 10:23 AM

Now its onto brake lines, air lines and fuel lines, routing and securing to frame or ....
I have the fuel line - PTFE with all -6an fittings, all air lines which i can only do so much with until the cab is mounted because the lines go into the cab to the gauges. The air tank and pump will be mounted in the bed. My issue is where to get brake lines.

Paul Y · 05-10-2020, 03:26 PM

Looking good Jeff!

Appreciate your time on Thursday, will keep you updated.

P.

88Stanger · 05-11-2020, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Looking good Jeff!

Appreciate your time on Thursday, will keep you updated.

P.

Sounds good Paul, thank you

88Stanger · 05-17-2020, 12:09 PM

Ok, so interesting thing happened. I was looking at where to position the pan hard bar to center the truck, making sure to set it close to "Ride Height" and i noticed a few things. The axle will move from one side to the other side by a good amount. From approx. 1/2 of travel with rear the axle will move 1 to 1.5" to one side when all the way down and then when fully extended 1 to 1.5" the the other way from a neutral position. I found that very interesting. I knew it moved, just never really seen it but with no air in bags the travel is easy and noticeable. With all that said, i have good shocks that allow for alot of travel, enough that i am concerned with the load it puts on the bags when frame is lifted and the rear is allowed to be free floating. It puts what i would call too much "Pull" on them. So, i am looking at installing some kind of rearend travel limiting straps. My big issue is i do not want to weld tabs onto the frame of the axle as they are all powder coated. So i am looking for ideas. Anyone?
Thanks for the time.

SCOTI · 05-17-2020, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, so interesting thing happened. I was looking at where to position the pan hard bar to center the truck, making sure to set it close to "Ride Height" and i noticed a few things. The axle will move from one side to the other side by a good amount. From approx. 1/2 of travel with rear the axle will move 1 to 1.5" to one side when all the way down and then when fully extended 1 to 1.5" the the other way from a neutral position. I found that very interesting. I knew it moved, just never really seen it but with no air in bags the travel is easy and noticeable. With all that said, i have good shocks that allow for alot of travel, enough that i am concerned with the load it puts on the bags when frame is lifted and the rear is allowed to be free floating. It puts what i would call too much "Pull" on them. So, i am looking at installing some kind of rearend travel limiting straps. My big issue is i do not want to weld tabs onto the frame of the axle as they are all powder coated. So i am looking for ideas. Anyone?
Thanks for the time.

A bolt-on anchor/tab somewhere where there are already holes in the frame is what I would look @ using. That being said, once the PHB is set @ ride height, it shouldn't be an issue. It's not like you'd be driving with it all the way down & then suddenly all the way up.

You'll get a feel for your ride height pressures & will be able to adjust height w/fairly 'obvious' adjustment limits.

88Stanger · 05-18-2020, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

A bolt-on anchor/tab somewhere where there are already holes in the frame is what I would look @ using. That being said, once the PHB is set @ ride height, it shouldn't be an issue. It's not like you'd be driving with it all the way down & then suddenly all the way up.

You'll get a feel for your ride height pressures & will be able to adjust height w/fairly 'obvious' adjustment limits.

I appreciate the comment and idea. As you said i will not have it up in the air much ever, but just in case i do need to check tires, rearend, and so on i want to be careful with the bags. So i got 11" axle straps and bolt on axle brackets from Speedway Motors that are made for leaf spring mounting, so they have a flat surface to mount one side of the Limiting straps and then i will make a plate to mount to the brace that the upper shock mounts bolt to to hold the other end of the strap. Seems like it is just one thing after another... lol

88Stanger · 05-20-2020, 01:25 PM

Ok, now i have a question for the exhaust. I am looking at doing a kit myself. There are several to pick from, 2.5" or 3", mild steel or stainless steel. I am wondering what everyone else has done? A Shop will be about $600.00 to build and install.
I have long tube headers, I want the exhaust to exit just before the rear tires on each side with flat type exhaust tips (kinda like NASCAR), i do own a miller Tig machine, now it has been a while since i used a tig welder, but i am not scared to go again at it.
Costs for mild to Stainless is crazy! So, with all that said, suggestions? Size, type...
Thanks.

SCOTI · 05-20-2020, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, now i have a question for the exhaust. I am looking at doing a kit myself. There are several to pick from, 2.5" or 3", mild steel or stainless steel. I am wondering what everyone else has done? A Shop will be about $600.00 to build and install.
I have long tube headers, I want the exhaust to exit just before the rear tires on each side with flat type exhaust tips (kinda like NASCAR), i do own a miller Tig machine, now it has been a while since i used a tig welder, but i am not scared to go again at it.
Costs for mild to Stainless is crazy! So, with all that said, suggestions? Size, type...
Thanks.

What size are the headers (primary & collector)?

88Stanger · 05-21-2020, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What size are the headers (primary & collector)?

Very good question. i apologize, i should know this. So i have a set of Stans Tri-
Y headers that were for my 69 C10. Not sure they will fit, but also i am not concerned about having to use them or buy a different set, shorties, ceramic coated, ..... I should look into this first.
Suggestions?

88Stanger · 05-21-2020, 08:23 AM

Ok, so i believe i found a set of long tubes that are ceramic coated. They have 1.5" primary's and 3" Collector.

Richard2112 · 05-21-2020, 08:41 AM

Excellent detail, nice work. I like the Hurst shifter (funny, sometimes it's the little things that catch the eye), a real classic touch

SCOTI · 05-21-2020, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, so i believe i found a set of long tubes that are ceramic coated. They have 1.5" primary's and 3" Collector.

You want the most out of the motor? You need the headers sized accordingly (within reason). A 383 w/any decent cam & heads can move some air. 1.5" primary tubes will work but a 1 5/8 primary is better suited.

Beyond that, 2.5" true duals w/a H-pipe or X- crossover would be a decent set-up. Summit has a aluminized universal kit as well as a SS version.

**Captainfab** · 05-21-2020, 10:26 PM

This comes to mind

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-89027

0ldSoul · 05-21-2020, 11:35 PM

Build is looking better and better Jeff

88Stanger · 05-25-2020, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard2112

Excellent detail, nice work. I like the Hurst shifter (funny, sometimes it's the little things that catch the eye), a real classic touch

Thanks, i bought the M-20 as it was advertised as an M-22. I of course did my inspection and explained to the seller that it is actually a later model M-20. He was selling it with not 1 but 2 aluminium bell housings and a real solid sifter and at the price, it was all good. So i rebuild not just the tranny but also the entire shifter.

88Stanger · 05-25-2020, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

This comes to mind

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-89027

Thanks Captainfab, it is in the wishlist for summit. I have no knowledge of what thrush exhaust sounds like honestly. I am a big fan of good ole Flowmasters. but sometimes change is good.

88Stanger · 05-25-2020, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0ldSoul

Build is looking better and better Jeff

Thank you sir!! i appreciate it!

05-09-2020, 04:20 PM	#151
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,651	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed more with the new Rear Disc Brakes and then onto a full roller!!! Attached Images

05-09-2020, 04:22 PM	#152
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,651	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Full Roller now... still some work to do, but it it movable now!! Attached Images

05-09-2020, 04:24 PM	#153
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,651	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed few with Ruler to see how low it is. Currently there is 0 air in bags and it is on the rubber snubs front and rear Attached Images

05-09-2020, 07:29 PM	#154
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,041	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Happy w/it? __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

05-10-2020, 10:23 AM	#159
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,651	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Now its onto brake lines, air lines and fuel lines, routing and securing to frame or .... I have the fuel line - PTFE with all -6an fittings, all air lines which i can only do so much with until the cab is mounted because the lines go into the cab to the gauges. The air tank and pump will be mounted in the bed. My issue is where to get brake lines.

05-10-2020, 03:26 PM	#160
Paul Y Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 948	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Looking good Jeff! Appreciate your time on Thursday, will keep you updated. P. __________________ Woody's Build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=658621 If it goes wrong, I blame the Internet...

05-17-2020, 12:09 PM	#162
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,651	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Ok, so interesting thing happened. I was looking at where to position the pan hard bar to center the truck, making sure to set it close to "Ride Height" and i noticed a few things. The axle will move from one side to the other side by a good amount. From approx. 1/2 of travel with rear the axle will move 1 to 1.5" to one side when all the way down and then when fully extended 1 to 1.5" the the other way from a neutral position. I found that very interesting. I knew it moved, just never really seen it but with no air in bags the travel is easy and noticeable. With all that said, i have good shocks that allow for alot of travel, enough that i am concerned with the load it puts on the bags when frame is lifted and the rear is allowed to be free floating. It puts what i would call too much "Pull" on them. So, i am looking at installing some kind of rearend travel limiting straps. My big issue is i do not want to weld tabs onto the frame of the axle as they are all powder coated. So i am looking for ideas. Anyone? Thanks for the time.

05-20-2020, 01:25 PM	#165
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,651	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Ok, now i have a question for the exhaust. I am looking at doing a kit myself. There are several to pick from, 2.5" or 3", mild steel or stainless steel. I am wondering what everyone else has done? A Shop will be about $600.00 to build and install. I have long tube headers, I want the exhaust to exit just before the rear tires on each side with flat type exhaust tips (kinda like NASCAR), i do own a miller Tig machine, now it has been a while since i used a tig welder, but i am not scared to go again at it. Costs for mild to Stainless is crazy! So, with all that said, suggestions? Size, type... Thanks.

05-21-2020, 08:23 AM	#168
88Stanger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,651	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Ok, so i believe i found a set of long tubes that are ceramic coated. They have 1.5" primary's and 3" Collector.

05-21-2020, 08:41 AM	#169
Richard2112 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: South East Ohio Posts: 644	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Excellent detail, nice work. I like the Hurst shifter (funny, sometimes it's the little things that catch the eye), a real classic touch

05-21-2020, 10:26 PM	#171
Captainfab 60-66 Nut Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho Posts: 23,251	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed This comes to mind https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-89027 __________________ Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE

05-21-2020, 11:35 PM	#172
0ldSoul Registered User Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Upper Left USA Posts: 83	Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed Build is looking better and better Jeff __________________ My '63 Restomod Build 283/4 speed, 4.5/7 static c-notched drop, disc brakes, power steering Instagram: in2engines



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