AJ's '72 Cruiser Crawler Build

[jojo]

That motor's lookin real good!

[AJs72K5]

UPDATE 9/27/09: Bottom end complete. Put the new cam in today. Degreed it with the new timing chain, which is cool btw because the timing is spot on with the grind sheet. The cam ended up advanced 3*. Dropped in the new lifters, and closed up the bottom end. Oil pan is bolted down as is the timing cover. We woulda finished the motor, but my friend forgot the adjustable pushrod to measure with...so no pushrods yet. Loaded it up on a trailer and took it back to the shop.

The adjustable timing chain. It's also got a bearing built into the back side so's it won't eat up the block like the last one did


Roller lifters. SEXY!


This was supposed to be the picture of the engine loaded up on the trailer to head back to the shop...but I forgot. So, imagine it looking just like this, but with a motor on a stand and strapped down.

[BLUE THUNDER]

I can see it now.

[Bentblazer]

You must have painted it camo

[Yukon Jack]

Sweet progress!

[Jtrux]

Nice updates AJ but there's one thing I noticed. I think the computer program you inputed your data into may be a little bit off. It seems to me you're trying to go for a bit of a hotrod and I think you would of benefited from a larger cam. The one you've chosen is just a step above stock, an RV cam if you will. The heads and intake combo you have is great and all but I don't think you'll really be reaping the benefits of them with that cam. You will make good torque (~400tq) but I think the hp will be lacking and not quite what you're looking for (~325HP OR SO). I'm not an expert by any means but I worked at a machine shop several years ago for a while and i've had my hands on quite a few other engine builds so I do have an idea. I really like the Comp Cams Extreme Energy series and I think if you go went with one of those cams you would get some of the performance I think you're after. The only reason i'm making this suggestion is because I don't want you to get this thing together and installed and realize you shoulda gone bigger. Hope you don't feel i'm stepping on your toes, just trying to offer some pointers.

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by Jtrux

Nice updates AJ but there's one thing I noticed. I think the computer program you inputed your data into may be a little bit off. It seems to me you're trying to go for a bit of a hotrod and I think you would of benefited from a larger cam. The one you've chosen is just a step above stock, an RV cam if you will. The heads and intake combo you have is great and all but I don't think you'll really be reaping the benefits of them with that cam. You will make good torque (~400tq) but I think the hp will be lacking and not quite what you're looking for (~325HP OR SO). I'm not an expert by any means but I worked at a machine shop several years ago for a while and i've had my hands on quite a few other engine builds so I do have an idea. I really like the Comp Cams Extreme Energy series and I think if you go went with one of those cams you would get some of the performance I think you're after. The only reason i'm making this suggestion is because I don't want you to get this thing together and installed and realize you shoulda gone bigger. Hope you don't feel i'm stepping on your toes, just trying to offer some pointers.

No harm done. Nothing has been inputed wrong into the CamQuest app. The cam I went with, while appearing somewhat mild, is also EFI friendly, which is important. A bigger EFI friendly cam would've required me to go with a Lunati that was a bit too big in my opinion. We'll see how it turns out.

[72Levi]

520hp and 580tq? What compression are you running with the EFI? Are you going to get it dynoed in SA when you are finished?

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by 72Levi

520hp and 580tq? What compression are you running with the EFI? Are you going to get it dynoed in SA when you are finished?

If Keith Black's compression calculator is correct, I should end up right around 9.9:1. I'll probably get it dyno'd to dial in the final tuning of the EFI.

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by AJs72K5

If Keith Black's compression calculator is correct, I should end up right around 9.9:1. I'll probably get it dyno'd to dial in the final tuning of the EFI.

That's awesome, I've always wanted to throw one of my engines on a dyno, you'll have to let us know how it goes.

[72Levi]

NICE! Let us San Antonio guys know which dyno place is a good one in SA.

[AJs72K5]

Not a whole lot going on right now. At home recovering from surgery to correct a deviated septum. But I did pick this up... reconditioned tilt column with new levers.

[Jtrux]

Nothing like some good ole rhinoplasty to get things straight! lol Let's see some motor updates!

[AJs72K5]

UPDATE 11/23/09: Septoplasty recovery. I took all of last week off to recover from surgery. By Wednesday, boredom had set in. By Friday, my wife ordered me to the shop to get out of the house...like I was gonna argue.

So...I took it fairly easy and painted the block, upgraded my seriously wimpy bumpstops, pulled the old steering column out, and removed the floor shifter. Hey, anything is progress at this point, right?

Block all masked off...its like turning a 4 year old loose to wrap Xmas presents. Masking pic just for you Kurt


Three coats of Duplicolor High Temp Engine paint red later. Much better than the previous block's purple, I think.


Bumpstops.



more to come...

[Critter]

Good progress if you ask me. Nothing better than a freshly painted engine. The bump stops looked pretty beefy, I like them. Glad to here you are recovering nicely.

[AJs72K5]

Manged to get off work early today and made a little more progress on the engine.

Measured up a set of pushrods...they're on order now. Then pulled the timing cover back off to put a cam button on. Turns out they're kinda optional on a flat tappet cam. However, required on a roller cam.

After that, the balancer on went on...fighting every inch of the way.

Then started to test fit the new headers. I ordered a set of Hooker Comp 2455s. They're for a 1972 Chevelle and are supposed to fit well. However, I ran into several clearance issues on the DIY4x crossmember. I may need to go back to the factory crossmember. I chucked the old one a while back cuz the PO had mangled it up getting the old engine in. Need to find a factory crossmember...

New cam button

[Chevyman63]

Nice job AJ...lookin good!!

[jaros44sr]

Engine looks great, really like the flat black look. How about exhaust manifolds instead of headers. You must just be itching to get that engine back in. Are the small block and big block cross members the same???

Liking the bump stops also, where did you find them?

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Engine looks great, really like the flat black look. How about exhaust manifolds instead of headers. You must just be itching to get that engine back in. Are the small block and big block cross members the same???

Liking the bump stops also, where did you find them?

Yeah, I'm dying to make some significant progress. With the engine I built, exhaust manifolds will constipate it bad. I need something with more flowwwww. Hence the headers with 2" primaries and 3.5" collectors.

It had a small block crossmember in it before. I know there are different engine stands, but the crossmember itself is the same. I'm gonna hit the local PickNPull this weekend to see if I can find one.

I bought the bumpstops from a member on another board. We haven't figured out what kind they are yet.

And to answer your question from before, no, a big block does not use a thrust bearing behind the timing chain. You can put a wear plate and thrust bearing behind it if the timing chain has chewed up the block like my old one did. But you need to mill the surface flat first.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by AJs72K5

Yeah, I'm dying to make some significant progress. With the engine I built, exhaust manifolds will constipate it bad. I need something with more flowwwww. Hence the headers with 2" primaries and 3.5" collectors.

It had a small block crossmember in it before. I know there are different engine stands, but the crossmember itself is the same. I'm gonna hit the local PickNPull this weekend to see if I can find one.

I bought the bumpstops from a member on another board. We haven't figured out what kind they are yet.

And to answer your question from before, no, a big block does not use a thrust bearing behind the timing chain. You can put a wear plate and thrust bearing behind it if the timing chain has chewed up the block like my old one did. But you need to mill the surface flat first.

Ok. thanks for the answer, I have to order a .31 shim or wear plate from Cloyes to move my timing chain spocket away from the block. Didn't really want to grind the block...I have a cam button on my cover but I have to set it loose, can't figure out how to machine my block for the torrington bearing with engine in the truck. I was considering a magnetic base drill with an end mill chucked up in it, but that could get ugly in a hurry

If you can't find one in the junkyard and want to pay shipping, there's one in my basement. I even degreased and painted for ya. Sorry ya can't use the DIY. If ya ever figure out where that bump stop came from LMK

Shame we don't all live on the same block

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by AJs72K5

Need to find a factory crossmember.

Have one here, could just make a bigger box and throw it in with the tranny tunnel.

[Jtrux]

I'll trade you mine for your DIY

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

If you can't find one in the junkyard and want to pay shipping, there's one in my basement. I even degreased and painted for ya. Sorry ya can't use the DIY.

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Have one here, could just make a bigger box and throw it in with the tranny tunnel.

If I can't find one local, I'll let you guys know. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Jtrux

I'll trade you mine for your DIY

Not ready to give up on the DIY crossmember yet. I want to get a factory one to see how it fits and weigh my options.

[Burt4x4]

passenger side looking forward.
That is a 73+ 3-piece, in the pic you can only see the frame mount and the ORD engine mount. I can't locate a pic of the actual crossmember but you may recal I used ORD's crossmember and it fits but hella tight and about 1/8" away from the pan. Butt! My engine does not move, no shaking just solid.
Anyway just keeping your mind busy

[jaros44sr]

Ah, another part to the puzzle is answered...good one Burt