Project "Redemption" 68 SWB Fleetside

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by boostedc10

No need for a 4:10 with a 4l60e in my opinion, I would stick with a 3:73.

Thanks for the input Brandon, I just want to make sure I do it right the first time as I don't plan on opening the rear back up after its done unless I have to!

Originally Posted by aggie91

We did the 4:10's with a 4l60e in Sunburn and now again in White Trash. In hind sight we should have gone with 3:73's. It would give good performance and better MPG as we drive WT much more. Korbin drive about 30 miles one way each day for school....

I don't have to worry about daily driving this truck but I am starting to think the 3.73's might be the best choice! I did a rpm calculator and with 3.73's I would be turning a little less then 2000 rpm at 70! 4.10's would put me around 2200 rpm at the same speed!

[jeh]

Kieth, from my experience with a 700r4 I think 4.10's would be to low. The 3.73 rear in my truck seemed just right on the interstate. (Just my thoughts)

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by jeh

Kieth, from my experience with a 700r4 I think 4.10's would be to low. The 3.73 rear in my truck seemed just right on the interstate. (Just my thoughts)

Thanks Jason, it seems like everybody is suggesting 3.73's! I still need to figure out whether I'm going to run a 4l80e or 4l60e before I decide on the gears!

[Bennett68C10]

Got all the crossmembers out today except for the one all the way in the rear! I'll remove that one after I install my Dropmember! My air hammer made quick work of the rivets!

[69short]

I'm running a 4l80e with 3.73 gears. Obviously I have yet to drive it though lol

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by 69short

I'm running a 4l80e with 3.73 gears. Obviously I have yet to drive it though lol

3.73's seem to be the popular choice!

[Bennett68C10]

Also got the steering rack installed! I need to figure out what the thread size is for the tie rods because I need to trim a little off! It's a little to long right now and it's pitching the toe out in the front on the brake rotors! My rack didn't come with any jam nuts! Any body have a clue what size the thread is? It's a CPP rack!

[69short]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Also got the steering rack installed! I need to figure out what the thread size is for the tie rods because I need to trim a little off! It's a little to long right now and it's pitching the toe out in the front on the brake rotors! My rack didn't come with any jam nuts! Any body have a clue what size the thread is? It's a CPP rack!

Mine did not come with jam nuts either. I just have a jam nut between the PB piece that screws to the tie rod and the joint that bolts to the spindle. I didn't even think about a nut on the other end but it sounds like I need one.

[boostedc10]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Also got the steering rack installed! I need to figure out what the thread size is for the tie rods because I need to trim a little off! It's a little to long right now and it's pitching the toe out in the front on the brake rotors! My rack didn't come with any jam nuts! Any body have a clue what size the thread is? It's a CPP rack!

Thread should be 9/16" -18 for all the mustang 2 racks. If you just need to cut it down some, a die grinder and thread file will be your best bet.

Here are the jam nuts for the rack
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/9-16-I...uts,26789.html

[69short]

You could take your PB piece to the hardware store to find the right size bolt that threads in. Then you'll know what size nut you need. I can't remember if it is reverse threads on the tie rods?

[69short]

Sorry I forgot you're not using the PB dropmember in the front. Lol my bad

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by 69short

Mine did not come with jam nuts either. I just have a jam nut between the PB piece that screws to the tie rod and the joint that bolts to the spindle. I didn't even think about a nut on the other end but it sounds like I need one.

Originally Posted by 69short

You could take your PB piece to the hardware store to find the right size bolt that threads in. Then you'll know what size nut you need. I can't remember if it is reverse threads on the tie rods?

Originally Posted by 69short

Sorry I forgot you're not using the PB dropmember in the front. Lol my bad

I know what you meant! I did take my adjusting sleeve to Lowes but they didn't have anything nearly bid enough to fit the threads! I'm going to have to try somewhere else I guess! You are correct though, it is reverse threads!

[SierraMtns]

Hey Keith,

Thanks for sharing this build with us. I will be tagging along. I know how you feel about waiting for parts. I order a rear drop member kit for my pro touring build from PB in March. Man the waiting is rough. June cant come fast enough.

[Sac]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Hey Keith,

Thanks for sharing this build with us. I will be tagging along. I know how you feel about waiting for parts. I order a rear drop member kit for my pro touring build from PB in March. Man the waiting is rough. June cant come fast enough.

June?? Wow!

[mcbassin]

Nice progress on the frame!

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Hey Keith,

Thanks for sharing this build with us. I will be tagging along. I know how you feel about waiting for parts. I order a rear drop member kit for my pro touring build from PB in March. Man the waiting is rough. June cant come fast enough.

Thanks for following along with my build I ordered my rear dropmember and inner frame stiffener in January. They gave me an eta of early April so I'm hoping they come in soon.

Originally Posted by Sac

June?? Wow!

Its totally worth the wait though!

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice progress on the frame!

Thanks Mike, a few hours of work and the cross members were gone.

[shores6]

I love the hashtag Nate and everyone at PB has been using lately. #theresareasontheresawait Lookin awesome man.

[ajgriffin]

Originally Posted by shores6

I love the hashtag Nate and everyone at PB has been using lately. #theresareasontheresawait Lookin awesome man.

#Iknowbutc'monalready

[crazycrew]

Holy crap! Amazing progress in such a short period of time.

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by shores6

I love the hashtag Nate and everyone at PB has been using lately. #theresareasontheresawait Lookin awesome man.

Thanks, yeah I have seen that too. They can definitely make that statement!

Originally Posted by crazycrew

Holy crap! Amazing progress in such a short period of time.

Thanks man, sometimes I feel like I'm moving at a snails pace but that's only because I would like to have more done by now.

[knomadd]

Forgive me for my ignorance, but do the rack and pinions not have left hand threads on one side like the original steering? If they do, be careful about what you trim since you'd need the appropriate tap/die to chase the threads if it's mangled a little from the trim.

[boostedc10]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Forgive me for my ignorance, but do the rack and pinions not have left hand threads on one side like the original steering? If they do, be careful about what you trim since you'd need the appropriate tap/die to chase the threads if it's mangled a little from the trim.

Mustang II rack inner tie rods are the same on both sides. If you use a die grinder to shorten them, just buy a standard thread file to clean up the ends. You shouldn't need a die to clean them. I have done a ton of these racks this way and never had an issue. Another trick if you don't want to bother with a thread file is to just taper the very end with a grinder.

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by boostedc10

Thread should be 9/16" -18 for all the mustang 2 racks. If you just need to cut it down some, a die grinder and thread file will be your best bet.

Here are the jam nuts for the rack
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/9-16-I...uts,26789.html

Thanks for the link Brandon, I knew somebody had to know.

Originally Posted by knomadd

Forgive me for my ignorance, but do the rack and pinions not have left hand threads on one side like the original steering? If they do, be careful about what you trim since you'd need the appropriate tap/die to chase the threads if it's mangled a little from the trim.

Originally Posted by boostedc10

Mustang II rack inner tie rods are the same on both sides. If you use a die grinder to shorten them, just buy a standard thread file to clean up the ends. You shouldn't need a die to clean them. I have done a ton of these racks this way and never had an issue. Another trick if you don't want to bother with a thread file is to just taper the very end with a grinder.

The way I do it and what I did on my last setup is I thread the nut onto the rack, then trim the rack to my desired length. After it's trimmed I do like Brandon said and taper the end with a grinder. Then just unscrew the nut off the rack. As the nut comes off it basically acts as a die and cleans the threads.

[boostedc10]

I knew it wasn't your first rodeo but some good questions came up

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by boostedc10

I knew it wasn't your first rodeo but some good questions came up

Thanks for the help Brandon, I ordered those jam nuts from speedway last night.