1950 project

[72ArizonaBurb]

I am still working on the dash. I made end caps and welded them in. I have spent a lot of time getting the steering column lined up and mounted where I want it. I had to make a spacer to attach to the bottom of the dash to keep the steering wheel from hitting the speedometer when the tilt if fully up. I also had to fabricate a brace from the old brace by splitting it in two and then welding a new attachment point at the fire wall. Needless to say all of this fitting took some time. I'm getting close to welding it in it. I have to decide if I will install an A/C center vent (which I don't have currently) and if I am going to make a cut out for single din radio or hide the radio in the glove box. I still need to fabricate some side mounting braces and attach the bottom of the dash to the cab and maybe one more brace from the firewall to the bottom of the dash for support on the glove box side. It seems very sturdy with the current bracing so I will wait until I have the dash welded in before deciding.

[ChuckDriver]

It's coming along, keep it up!

[50adrod]

looking very good, I like. on the radio this is just my personal opinion but a modern radio in a vintage dash just looks out of place. i would go with hidden audio or go with retro sound http://www.retrosoundusa.com/?gclid=...FQXonAod6RufLw
they make modern radios that look old. just put one in my 55 Belair. has USB and flash drive also IPOD input and it sounds great. keep up the good work

[72ArizonaBurb]

I agree on the radio. I will find a place to hide it or if I build a console I will stick it there.

[_Ogre]

a little incentive for you, i like those metropolitans
i followed this around the track at indy last yr

[hotrod1]

YOu never know what you will get with a Nash

Check out this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&fe...&v=IoYs0jUOi0k

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

a little incentive for you, i like those metropolitans
i followed this around the track at indy last yr

thanks OGRE that one has a ls2 in it. trick car.
I sold this 50 truck project truck to 72ARIZONABURB and he is finishing it. and doing a good job. the Nash project is comming along soon it get final body work and be ready for paint.

[_Ogre]

i was at the chrysler museum last fall. they had a sweet metro on display with a little history.
door skins are swapable left to right.
originally the fenders were too; right front swap with left rear and left front swap with right rear.
some how that was changed in the final design, but they are still close except for the light opening.

the one in the pic was ls powered. he had a motorcycle tire for a spare. not sure how he modified the rim to fit it.

[72ArizonaBurb]

Sorry about no recent updates. My computer was down for 3 weeks. I have the dash installed and welded in place. I primed it and did the 1st round of body work on it then primed it again. I will leave it like this until I do the rest of the body work and block sand it and prime again. I may cut a hole and put the A/C controls in the center of the dash. Looking at a Vintage Air system. This job took a lot more time than you would expect. Lot's of trimming and fitting and trimming and fitting to get it just like you want it. It wasn't difficult to do just time consuming.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I media blasted a bunch of misc. parts and epoxied primed them just working on getting everything cleaned up and ready to install or paint someday.

[72ArizonaBurb]

Welded in a few patch panels and etched primed.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I ordered and installed the power steering hoses for the GM pump to the Mustang II IFS. I also put an in line reducer to reduce the pressure since I was told the GM pump has more pressure than the Ford rack needs and if you don't reduce the pressure the steering is very twitchy. I put these on now so I could check the clearance with with the inner fenders installed. I was told the return line (is the top fitting on Mustang rack) can anyone confirm this for me? I would hate to have this hooked up incorrectly.

[72ArizonaBurb]

I'm trying to decide what to do next:

Order the A/C unit and wiper motor and mock up the install, order the wiring harness and run all the wiring then remove it before finishing the body or remove the cab and bed and complete the running gear (drive shaft cut to length, run brake lines, ect..) then work on the body then the electric.

Any suggestions from you guys that have your project further along than mine?

[ChuckDriver]

Nice job on the dash install!

[72ArizonaBurb]

Seems like I have spent more time trying to decide what to do next vs. really doing anything. So today I tore the truck back down so I can complete the running gear and start on the body work on the cab. I know I will probably have to put it back together and take it back a apart a couple more times to prefit the inner fenders, fenders, running boards and hood. I also received my new Autowire 22 circuit wiring kit. Looks like a nice kit and came with the headlight switch, ingnition switch and dimmer switch. I wasn't expecting that. I down loaded a complete set of wiring diagrams from a fellow board member for this wiring kit also. That should save me a lot of time and provide some great documentation for future trouble shooting.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by 72ArizonaBurb

I'm trying to decide what to do next:

Order the A/C unit and wiper motor and mock up the install, order the wiring harness and run all the wiring then remove it before finishing the body or remove the cab and bed and complete the running gear (drive shaft cut to length, run brake lines, ect..) then work on the body then the electric.

Any suggestions from you guys that have your project further along than mine?

the type of aftermarket harness you bought i would not attempt to remove it after install.
really no practical way to make it removable with out a lot of effort, parts and money.
wire your truck after the cab is on for the last time in finish paint.
but before you put the front sheet metal on, it just gets in your way.
mock up everything, install the ac so you know where all the holes are and to weld in the mounts.
think ahead as to where your harness will run towards the front, back and make a bracket for the panel.

dash is looking spectacular

what pressure reducer did you buy?
my steering is a little to sensitive and my rack just started leaking
plus i have a mustang hydroboost, maybe i should turn the pressure down a tad...

[72ArizonaBurb]

Orge

When I ordered the hoses for my powersteering I told them I needed a pressure reducer also. It was $25. I ordered it from JPL Street Rods in Aliquippa PA (724) 375-3940. This is the company that sold the Mustang II front suspension that is on the truck. They were very knowledgable about these front ends. If you need any other parts the shipping is free if you order $100 or more.

[_Ogre]

thanks for the info, bought one

[72ArizonaBurb]

Guys,

I decided it would be better if I started a new build thread since these threads are somewhat personal and lots of info is exchanged with the owner of the thread. All my future posts will posted under 50 Project Part 2. Here is the link

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...04#post5372104


Thanks to 50Adrod for all of his hard work and documenation on this build thread

[50adrod]

I sold this project 2 Years ago to 72ArizonaBurb, I was checking in to see how his progress was and found out he was thinking of selling it, we worked out a deal and the truck is mine again. Keith has done some great work on it and put in an awesome 59 Bel air dash, thanks Keith. He also did the final bodywork on the cab hood and fenders and repaired the doors. Now after a very cold 1400 mile trip it is back in my shop and will be finished as soon as my 64 f100 is done in a few months. build is here http://www.slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=31755

I plan to stick with my original plans with this truck.

on its way home today

[47 Fasttoys]

Not to be a pain in the A but please help me understand the pressure reducer fitting. I have a power Mustang rack on my Cobra and to reduce the pressure all that was required was taking 1 loop out of the regulator spring. I assume what you've done is to reduce the flow out of the pump to slow the rack down? I wounder if this will have any effect on steering at speed. By clipping the spring it takes slightly more force to move the steering but gives a much better feel of what the car is doing at speed. It sounds like both method will work I have just not heard of using a reducer fitting.

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by 47 Fasttoys

Not to be a pain in the A but please help me understand the pressure reducer fitting. I have a power Mustang rack on my Cobra and to reduce the pressure all that was required was taking 1 loop out of the regulator spring. I assume what you've done is to reduce the flow out of the pump to slow the rack down? I wounder if this will have any effect on steering at speed. By clipping the spring it takes slightly more force to move the steering but gives a much better feel of what the car is doing at speed. It sounds like both method will work I have just not heard of using a reducer fitting.

that will do the same thing it just reduces flow and therefore assist. it should feel the same as any other power rack when done. if you do not reduce the pressure from the GM pump steering will be over sensitive and twitchy on the road, the seals in the ford rack will also fail sooner due to the higher pressure they were not designed for.

[vince921]

cant wait to see the progress !!!!

[biorn123]

do you have any more pics of the bit**n inner fender wells with engine in do you have to use part of original fender well

[bauto52]

Nice project I am starting my own 52,which oil pan are u using?