55.2-59 57 Fleetside C4 build

[dsraven]

I also try to remask the previous masking because it seems to always have a little dust on it that blows up onto the wet paint. another good reason to use painters masking paper over other stuff, like newspaper, as the raw paper tends to offgas paper fiber hairs. using the plastic works as well but be careful with removal is it tends to shed the oversprayed paint from the plastic as it is removed and that stuff sticks to the new paint job. sometimes I eemove the plastic while the paint is still tacky, and roll it as I go, so it sticks to the plastic and doesn't come off in chunks as the plastic bends when removing. I always do a perimeter of tape around the body and then stick the masking to that so it comes off easily and then the perimeter of tape comes off after that with no masking materials attached to it. thats just what works for me. more tape used but it's cheap enough compared to fixing a problem.

[57FleetsideC4]

Thank You dsraven for you comments and suggestions. I do have the underside masked off very tight so won't let overspray through. I will recheck my bodywork as I go through the painting but believe it is good. I do go through a lot of tape and always checking to see if anything is loose. Like you said tape is cheap. It will be pretty much down hill once painted and I can clean up my shop for the last time. Still trying to figure out if someone has a booth I can borrow. Looking forward to seeing it done. Steve

[dsraven]

I have painted stuff in my shop, as required, but even when the walls and shelves are masked off the overspray and dust clean up takes a lot of time. I used a 2x4 frame with furnace filters stapled on, the hanging furnace filter type, and put that in the garage door opening, then let the door down on top of that. then removed the windows and covered the openings in the same way-minus the wooden frame- then placed a fan outside the windows to get some ventilation going. I wet the floor down and squeegee'd it off so the floor dust is down to a minimum prior to spraying. I use a supplied air full face mask with the compressor outside in the fresh air (upwind). I use a tear away mask cover so if it gets overspray on it I can tear it off and stick a new one on. I have some smooth hardboard scraps usually stuck to the wall somewhere so I can check my spray gun pattern before spraying. I have several air dryer methods and a air supply hose large enough to supply constant pressure with no pressure drop once the gun is actually spraying. this is a common problem with home spray painting, the air supply lines are too small and the gun quick connect is also a restriction so when you give the gun a shot to check the pattern it looks good but a few seconds of constant spraying and the air pressure at the tip is too low so the pattern changes. a pair of disposable coveralls and lots of rubber gloves with a easily accessed garbage can is a must as well. I usually have a gun mixed up and another paint cup full ready to go before I start spraying. then hope there is no problems. when doing the wax and grease remover it is important to use clean, dry, not laundered with a dryer sheet, painting rags and use lots of grease remover with lots of rags so you don't wipe contaminants from one spot to the next. then allow the whole thing to flash off dry before you spray. otherwise it will be a mess because the grease remover is like a contaminant to the paint. trust me on that one. use the correct reducer for the shop temp and mix according to the instructions. a viscosimeter would be great but I don't have one and haven't had much of a problem over the years. I have sprayed a lot of cars and truck, equipment, motorcycles etc. most of them in my shop. I am lucky enough to have a paint booth available in Calgary but it isn't the cleanest place around. I try to get the last booth times for the day so it can sit in the booth overnight and then I gotta arrive right at opening so I can get it outta there.

[57FleetsideC4]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have painted complete cars in my shop. I spend a lot of time cleaning, taking all the lights down and cleaning, vacuum the walls, take everything on wheels out of the shop the wash everything down. Once I get the top and inside of the cab painted I will paint in 2 batch's. The cab with doors on, fenders and hood then the bed will be second batch. I just have to be consistent so everything matches. Steve

[dsraven]

yeah, especially tough when doing a metallic paint as it blushes so easily if doing shortl passes. it's good to do a long pass, covering fender, door and out to rear of cab. that way there isn't a double layer at the overlap of the fender to the door. it does make it harder to get the passes in a nice long straight line though.
I have shelves in my shop about 18" down from the ceiling and I store milk crate style bins up there. I have pegboard below that with tools hanging. when I paint i usually hang plastic from the cieling down to the floor and staple it to the baseboard area. that way all that stuff is covered. it does get a little iffie when a gust of wind blows and the plastic tends to billow up. I also hang a tarp over my toolbox so if I need a tool in a hurry, like the paint gun has problems or an airline has issues etc, I have easy access. I store a lot of stuff in lateral filing cabinets so those are easy to plastic off. on a dry day I will wet down the lawn outside the shop and also the dirt alley behind the shop doors. I usually spray the furnace filters a little as well, so the dust will stick to them easier.

[dsraven]

always good to clean those overhead door tracks before starting too, they hold dust that only drops when you're painting something, haha.

[57FleetsideC4]

Originally Posted by dsraven

always good to clean those overhead door tracks before starting too, they hold dust that only drops when you're painting something, haha.

Thanks, I try and vacuum, blow out everything as best I can. Steve

[57FleetsideC4]

Made some more progress on the truck. Got the roof, dash, glove box, ash tray and the second color on the dash. Now to paint the rest of the inside of the cab. Slowly making progress. Steve

[OKGMC4]

Looks really good!

[Jason 56]

Nice work. You’re making great progress!

[57FleetsideC4]

Thanks for the comments guys. It seems as I get older they take a lot longer to do. One other thing thoughts on painting the whole cab instead of just the inside. It's a stock chevy silverado dark brown and the only thing I worry about is color match painting things at different times. I guess the worse thing that could happen is paint match. Steve

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 57FleetsideC4

Made some more progress on the truck. Got the roof, dash, glove box, ash tray and the second color on the dash. Now to paint the rest of the inside of the cab. Slowly making progress. Steve

Everything looking nice. Your color reminds me a lot of my truck when it was in it's "shop truck" look. This was before I tore it all down for a full paint job.

Mine was rattle can stuff just to get it all one color....and then I couldn't help myself. I added another color to the palette.

[57FleetsideC4]

I am going to get this thread up to date. In May I painted the inside of the cab. It was pretty hard reaching into all the areas with hitting something but got it done. Here are some pics Steve

[57FleetsideC4]

More updates this was from June. Painted the inside of the doors and door hinges. Steve

[57FleetsideC4]

Another update. Painted the inside of the hood, inner fender wells,core support fillers and core support. Here are the pics. Steve

[57FleetsideC4]

Another update. Painted front filler panels and the bed rails. Here are the pics. Steve

[57FleetsideC4]

These are pics from last week. Painted the cab, doors, hood and fenders. Here are the pics. Steve

[57FleetsideC4]

Last update for now. I pulled all the paper off, put the tires back on and rolled it outside. Now to get the bed painted. Steve

[Rickysnickers]

Looks great!!!

[dsraven]

that looks really good, nice job. keep the pics coming, its great to see forward motion on a project and really good to see it when the parts get put together for the final time.

[youngrodder]

Looking great. Final assembly is the best.

[Jason 56]

Looking good! I like the original white roof look.

[Oldtruckwelder]

Originally Posted by 57FleetsideC4

Hi, The measurements I went with were 3" from the outer point of the V to the edge of the door and 3/4" from the body line to the middle point of the V. That is the same measurements on the front fender emblem 3" front fender edge to the front of the emblem and 3/4" from the body line to the lowest part of the emblem. Steve

Thank you for the V placement info !!
Somehow missed your response back all the way back in February.
Caught back up on your build, great job on your painting skills in your home garage. What type paint single stage? Clear coat / base coat?
Thinking about trying to do it in the home garage also.
Thanks
JT from SC

[57FleetsideC4]

Originally Posted by Oldtruckwelder

Thank you for the V placement info !!
Somehow missed your response back all the way back in February.
Caught back up on your build, great job on your painting skills in your home garage. What type paint single stage? Clear coat / base coat?
Thinking about trying to do it in the home garage also.
Thanks
JT from SC

I used base coat / clear coat. I just clean up everything the best I can. Still got some crap in the paint but will sand and buff most of it out. Steve

[57FleetsideC4]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Looks great!!!

Thank You. Steve