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#151 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
Good to know what subjects to avoid. ![]()
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#152 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Yeah, I hate it when some ''kid'' cuts in front of me -- seeing 5 car lengths -- and zips in, sensing his opportunity. He doesn't know he's now in my stopping zone, and if I crush his Prius, it was his fault.
[OK, just road rage fantasy here. I know I'm legally at fault if I hit someone from behind.] Still thinking about a crate motor? You might price all the PHX dealerships.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 05-31-2021 at 06:42 PM. |
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#153 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
![]() Today I wanted some pictures of the wildfire smoke that blew south. Took a shortcut that shook the hell out Blue Cloud. Makes me want to Trophy Truck the suspension. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#154 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Never on the 292, but the 350 in the GMC Jimmy has vapor locked, I thought. I put a high temp heat rap around the fuel line -- packrats ate it off.
Turned it wasn't vapor lock but a bad HEI coil. Replaced it and flushed the radiator with new coolant. Runs fine and cool.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#155 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Yea, bloody packrats!
Nothing else to report, other than it would be nice to get a positrac rear end. ![]() ![]()
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#156 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
On the '68 C/10 Stepside, I swapped in a 3.73 12 Bolt Corp rear with Eaton posi when my first diff burned up. That was Mid '80s. Got it off a '69 GMC in a junkyard in Tucson and had Simmons Enterprises set it up for me. Had to buy one new axle shaft from the Chevy dealer. Still running good.
The differential and axle bearings burned up my '67 K/10 Suburban. [3.73 12 Bolt, of course]This time [Mid '90s] GM was on strike, so I couldn't find new axles. Calling around, Moser Custom Axles made me the best deal. New 6 lug ''stock-like'' custom axles for a good price. Actually the hub flange was an inch and a half lesser in diameter than stock. Moser told me they'd warranty them for life. OK Sold. Also put in an Auburn posi. Tucson Differential did the set-up. Then a carb fire grounded the Sub, and she sat. In 2010, I had to pull some old IH Scout hulks [an ex-friend had left on my property for 8 years] out of their ruts with my '71 GMC also 3.73 12 Bolt with factory Eaton Posi. About a couple weeks later, the rear end on the Jimmy lunched at a CircleK, a half mile from my house. I pulled the rear prop shaft and limped home in front wheel drive. Then Dennis, my Buddy, and I cannibalized the Suburban's Auburn posi rear and put it on the Jimmy. Still working great. I do need to get the GMC's OEM Eaton rearend rebuilt some day, but 25 - 30 years ago I dropped a grand doing that. So I know I can't afford it right now, since there's precious little work. Positraction is neater than sliced bread, though. Only thing I miss is deliberately fishtailing on dirt roads. That was fun, but Posi won't let you do it.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 07-07-2021 at 02:42 AM. |
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#157 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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Didn't work on Blue Cloud, instead I pulled this 1970 Raleigh Chopper from the shop rafters, which has been there for about 35 years. Cleaned and lubed it, and hacked a chainguard from a range front. Prescott Antique Auto Club show coming soon, first week of August. Wanted to accessorize. LOL ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I took more pictures than this.
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#158 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Cool bike. I have a Raleigh Royale in the same color. Royale was a 5-speed with rams horn handlebars. I bought it in the PX at MCAS Iwakuni, Japan. We could take our bikes with us [on flatbed semitrailers] when we deployed to other bases in the West Pac. Kadena Okinawa, and Cubi Point, Phllipine Islands. At a bike shop in Iwakuni I had it modified with a SunTour rear gear set and new double sprocket front crank = 10 speed, and 27'' wheels. Needs work and a new saddle. It had a Brooks leather saddle. The kind that gives you a free proctology exam with every long ride. Packrats ate the leather.
Who's Ken Block?
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 07-19-2021 at 03:03 AM. |
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#159 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
That is a very 'Kool' bike Kurt
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'68 C20 Utility 396 4sp (BuildThread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=806904 ) '68 C10 50th |
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#160 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuDN2bCIyus
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#161 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
That's what I found out! Much like anything old, and if it was desirable at the time. Just like our trucks. All the Hot Wheels, and Corgi toys I wasted too......
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#162 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
Imagine all the P.O.-ed S.F. commuters! I learned to drive in the Hollywood Hills. Some of those moves would've been handy there.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#163 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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#164 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
I learned a new word, too: HOON. Must be a contraction of Hazardous asshOle and goON.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 07-20-2021 at 12:22 AM. |
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#165 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Someone in the local car club has a "327 C.I. Racing engine short block. Dome pistons, large intake valves, Edmunds high rise intake manifold, bored out 20 thousandths, machine shop done. $875" Someone told me (long time ago) that size engine has the same reciprocating mass as a 350, why not just get that instead. But I just looked at prices for crate engines, now way.
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#166 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
327s were highly regarded by hotrodders, even over the 350. Something about a longer stoke -- they could rev higher. The 350 was designed to be a public-proof truck engine. An expert with more V8 experience can explain it better.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#167 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I've been seeing a wide range of opinions about keeping the 307, if modifications are worth it (generally not worth it). Long as it purrs like it is, not touching it.
I'm planning to go camping, in the Monument Valley area, depending on how it's going other places nearby too. Was thinking that deflating the tires on dirt/sandy roads would help, so got a compressor. Tested it out, found the power cord needs to be about 6 feet longer. ![]()
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#168 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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I have both. A pair of gator clips on a 5' run and a female at the end. This allows for connecting the solar panel for charging while the battery negative terminal is off. It can also add length to an extension [about 8'] with the matched plug ends. Since you have a Longbed, you will need a longer run. Measure from the dash plug, around the seat, out the door or window and out to your farthest tire, and add a couple more feet for comfort. Tie some old shoelaces to one end of each cord, and coil them and tie them when not in use. Tuck the coiled line in a big [gallon] baggie.Keep that with your tools, or in the glovebox, or under the seat. Always put it back in the same place. Truck stops should have the hardware since Radio Shack is gone. Look in the CB section. BTW, What size tires are you running? And if you're confident in your present engine, keep it.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 09-01-2021 at 06:19 AM. |
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#169 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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30 x 9.50 R15, why? Wouldn't start the other day. Neighbor who is a retired ADOT mechanic diagnosed the HEI ignition module was dead. Replaced, still didn't fire up. Decided to just replace the whole distributor, plugs and wires. There was corrosion in the terminals, and rotor brass things were sort of fried looking. Despite being mechanically challenged, did 95% of it. My friend dialed it in and timed it. Had a heck of a time getting the different length wires sorted out, ended up with one too short, Auto Zone traded for a longer one. ![]() ![]() Neighbor looked at the old spark plugs, said it's not burning oil. Since I can't really afford putting a modern engine in, will play this game long as possible.
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#170 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I was an avionics tech in the military, so I don't mind crimping and soldering wires. I buy the ''Universal'' plug wire sets, and cut the plug wires to length.
Also my Stepside uses an L6. I buy the V8 sets, and after every 3 wire changes, I have enough leftovers for a free fourth set. L6 runs are pretty short. The vendors all sell a stock type cigarette lighter and socket assembly. About $15 or $20. Easy install and damn handy. I don't smoke, but GPS, cellphone chargers and [in the winter with no heater in the GMC,] I have a Hot Seat. Plug-in vibrating back massager/heating pad. Voltage spikes from an External Voltage Regulator can flash burn an HEI Module. I moved up to an Internally regulated alternator on the 350 in my GMC Jimmy. Bought a brand new one, stock for a slightly later vintage Blazer. Working great. What viscosity oil are you running? I start with 30 weight with a newly rebuilt engine, then work up to SAE 40 at about 150,000, and finally 50 weight, before I pull it out and rebuild. I'll have to back track on the tire size question. Can't remember what that was about.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 09-18-2021 at 08:16 PM. |
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#171 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Thanks for checking on me, again.
I had a new "one wire" alternator installed, so the voltage regulator bundle of snakes has been removed. I am not having working front turn signals, the back ones work, and the dash turn signal lights aren't flashing. They did work. So where do I start to diagnose the problem? I looked at the switch at the steering wheel, cleaned up and added lithium grease so it moves better. I am now looking for a color wiring diagram. I found a free one when I had the '69, that went with the truck when I sold it. Thread for reference: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968 Source to buy a diagram, which should be better clarity than downloading and printing one: https://classiccarwiring.com/product...wiring-diagram Another thread, but must have to be signed up to see their diagram: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968 This ought to be a good source, but I don't see headlights/turn signals?: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856 Another thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968 Here is the front of the diagram! This also is about the temperature gauge acting weird which is happening now for me. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
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#172 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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New Turn Signal Switches run about $50 from the vendors. I've found swapping in a fresh one solves a lot of gripes. Gremlins can chew on a lot of little details in 53 years. I gave up on electrical temp gauges. The new ones have a different Resistance value. A mechanic said some mumbojumbo about using a couple [1/4W?] resistors in parallel, but, as an electrician, I knew that one would be marginally longer than the other, and create a bias. Putting a Mechanical Temperature gauge in its place is not difficult. Advantages are: 1] Better, more accurate temp indication 2] Works even when power is off. 3] Packrats can't chew thru the wires. 4] Lasts a long time. 5] Looks cool. Gauges shown are -- Auto Gage Tach on Steering Column. Stewart-Warner Water Temp, Moon Manifold Vacuum, AutoMeter Oil Ppessure.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 10-03-2021 at 04:39 AM. |
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#173 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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1968 C10 327, 3 speed manual, LWB stock height daily driver. 1968 C20 327, 4 speed manual, LWB stock height custom camper with heavy duty leaf springs rear, 50th anniversary edition. Hoping to press into daily drive status soon. |
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#174 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I put mechanical gages in my 72 one for water temp the trans temp and volt meter . Trans temp because I tow with it pic is before I hooked up the volt meter. This was towing my 68 to the Carlisle truck show .
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Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary. |
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#175 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Okay, will take the mechanical temp gauge advice. Thank you! It should fit where the radio hole is?
I was planning to get a whole horn assembly, might as well get the turn signal switch too. I replaced the switch in the '69 that I had before, so know I can. ![]() Meanwhile, the rocker had some gnarly rusty steel sticking out, ready to get me, so I cleaned that up. Ended up doing an archeological dig. Holy cow there was some dirt, and a Mud Dauber and regular wasp nests. I'm amazed the cab hasn't collapsed. ![]() I *had to* do something fun, that didn't require wires. My dad had this altimeter mounted in the car I grew up with. Whipped this out Sunday afternoon. It's not straight, assumed the knob was at 45°, so just like everything else, it's half-a$$ed. ![]() Another thing got fixed, didn't take a picture. The glovebox was getting flooded. Told a guy at a cruise night, who restores these trucks (name is Dave, he is on this forum on occasion). He asked if I got a new windshield, yes I did! He suggested putting silicon caulking in, so I did.
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