'50 chevy 3100

[dsraven]

that is how new vehicles are assembled as well but they also use adhesive in the seam along with the spot welds. with that said I would think if you spot welded, or basically drilled through the top layer like you said, every couple of inches, like the factory did, you should be fine. use seam sealer to keep the weather out on both sides of the seam. less welding=less possible warpage. small sections at a time with spot welds may make for a nice flat panel. if you are drilling holes anyway they could be used as screw holes or cleco holes to hold the panel in place while tacking. those holes would go right through both panels then of course.
when welding ensure to cut the wire each time for a nice chisel tip to strike the arc with. also ensure the steel is clean on both sides so no contamination gets in and causes porosity (bubbles in the weld), then paint and seam seal. a gas mig weld would definately make a nicer weld than the flux core. experiment some with how big you need to make the hole to weld through so you get the knack for attaching the weld puddle to both pieces. lots of those plug welds look great but only attach to the top piece of metal so there is no integrity. in that case it would be better if the part was simply rivetted using the proper rivet tecnique and composition of rivet of course, like aircraft.
see my example of how I used cleco's on the rear floor panel. like a spot weld done through each cleco hole. I did have to drill each cleco hole a bit bigger to get a decent weld through and be sure to check the back side to see if you have made penetration enough to sort of bubble the metal on the back side of the weld. otherwise you may just be filling the top side hole and thinking it is all good. sometimes the cleco "through hole" makes it easier to see that the weld puddle did attach to the bottom panel. practice makes a better "project" job for sure.
just my 2 cents.

[dsraven]

seam sealer comes in caulk or brush style. sometimes brush style could be better because it can go on thicker with better control. use the tape idea and then cut down a plastic putty knife to make the contour you like so it feathers out to the edge, that way your seam sealer looks like it is proffessionally done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

[Matt_50]

I like cleco's haven't used them in a long time. I think I'll get some just to have some. What size do you use most of the time? 1/8, 3/16?

[dsraven]

the size depends on the weight it will need to hold. a small cleco canbend while still inserted in the hole. if welding anyway you could use a larger size.

[Matt_50]

Got windshield in. Had a couple of suction cup things. Pulled on those while pulling on the rope. Went much easier than last time. I used a tiny bottle of dawn and soaked up every little thing. Glass still needs a little maneuvering but it got dark and it's real close. I'll need to find a way to lube it all up in a couple of days. How's WD40? Nice little straw...

[mongocanfly]

Could spring belong to the door latch handle?

[Black_Sheep]

That's a spring out of a window regulator

[dsraven]

yep, window regulator. it's broke too.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-glass.671179/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-1950-C...-/322056330144

[Matt_50]

I was looking those two parts up. Guess I'll see when I pull glass out tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky and it's the latch spring.

[Matt_50]

Looks like that spring was the door patch one. I understand why a lot of you buy new regulators... repaired driver side one. Took a long time. I forgot to get a couple of things. Do I have to use adhesive for the channel or could I use self tapping screws? What size of glass setting tape do I need for the window frame?

And what can I use to hold the frame pieces together? One side is good, other was undone, looks like that part would be in the channel.

[Matt_50]

Barrel bolts! And it turns out I added them to my big order a while back. Actually though they were screws for the top slide rail thingy.

So I fit driver side channel in place and took out passenger window. Had to drill out 3 of the 4 screws. Problem with driver channel. The metal piece it runs along in the door is not attached at the bottom. I can easily push it in place but it pops back. No missing screws that I could see, maybe a popped spot weld? How do I fix This? See last pic shot from bottom pointing up.

[joedoh]

I use adhesive, works great

that loose piece, if its at the back of the door there are two screws on the outside of the door that hold it.

[Clarance J]

Hey Matt_50. The inside of the door (as you can see) is a rough space to work in. Check the out side of the door for any signs of a spot weld. If found, drill out spot weld then brace inside part in place and plug weld from outside. I hope that's what you were asking about.

Earl

[Matt_50]

Went out with flashlight. First pic shows no screws on outside. 2nd pic shows same spot on passenger door.

2nd pic is upside down.

[Matt_50]

Any ideas how to fix it. Found this pic, piece on right side.

[Clarance J]

Matt_50. Could you reach in there through the access hole with a mig gun and put some tac welds in there? Would that be feasible?

[joedoh]

no problemo, its actually called liquid nails fuze-it. fuze anything to anything, sandable, paintable, very serious bonding properties. looks like mixed fusor, smells a little like it too.

https://www.liquidnails.com/products...form-statement

the better your surface the better it works, but I wiped some excess on a rusted license plate and stuck a piece of clean metal to it, and you cant get them apart, it was tearing the rusted license plate.

I use it as a seam sealer, as a firewall hole closer, to install window channels, I think I could stick a racoon to the garage door with this stuff.

[Clarance J]

Thanks joedoh. That would be a bad day for the raccoon. We have a raccoon that thinks our little back yard goldfish pond is a buffet. He growled at me one night.

[Matt_50]

I forgot about that stuff and I think I asked you about it once and everything! I was also thinking JB weld but I'll try that stuff first. I think I'll have to to a glob on my hand and reach in there, maybe wrap some clamps in plastic before I clamp it too... hate to have a clamp stuck in there. Do you use it as a seam sealer for inside AND outside the cab? I'll try to get some in the next day or two.

I painted the window frame and I have some waterproof silicone, adheres to metal, glass plastic, etc.. I'll get the windows set next.

I'm worried about the roller channel. The new rollers I put on the regulator look like they would bump into the heads of the bolts that hold it to the window frame. Does the rollers go that far or should I find flatter head screws?

Getting this sorta stuff done is pretty awesome. Feels like I'm getting more done lately.

[joedoh]

yes i use it inside and out, works great

the stock screw heads are pretty tall in the roller channel, I say try it, it probably wont hit anything.

[Matt_50]

Ok, I stopped and grabbed some fuse it. I reached in the best I could and got some sandpaper on it and I had just glob it into my hand, reach up and glob it on best I could.

Found a scrap board that fit into the channel, slid it down in and wedged it in place. Put a clamp on it just a little tight, didn't want to bend my door lol. Carefully closed the door and it says 4 to 6 hours to cure.

[Matt_50]

It worked! Thanks joedoh! Today I replaced the rollers on passenger regulator and trimmed the channels to fit. Painted the other window frame and here in a bit I will set the glass in the frames and hopefully have nice clean operational windows tomorrow!

[Matt_50]

Well, the part I replaced on the driver regulator bent. Spins spins spins but regulator does not work. Wasted money and time and im gonna order a regulator like I should have done.

Passenger glass is in though. Looks Awesome!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

It worked! Thanks joedoh!

youre welcome. I bought that stuff on a whim, I used to use F26 construction adhesive as a seam sealer because it added stregnth to a joint, instead of just sealing like seam sealant, but the "anything to anything" bond of fuze-it was interesting. I used it on some window channels and after that, everything.

[Matt_50]

Got lazy today but did get around to ordering a new regulator.