47-55.1 Starting a 52 Chevy 3100 Project.

[dsraven]

mopar,
if you have the original frame you could do a bolt in ifs and fab a rear suspension,or use a modified stock rear suspension with leafs, and then everything would fit.
don't rule out building your own frame with a bolt in front ifs either. if you have fab skills and access to some straight beams to use for a jig, it could be relatively straight forward compared to a frame swap. trust me, frame swap is a lot of work, more so than a bolt in ifs on your old frame.
lots of guys also swap in a front suspension from something else, then do a big c notch out back and then, if you look at it, the only stock chunk of frame left is the part the cab sits on.might as well start over. it might be straighter, lol. what do you have to start with, got a build thread or pics?

not meant to offend anybody, there is a lot of work that has gone into some of these builds and there is some nice stuff sitting on S10 undercarriage. just saying from personal experience that a frame swap is not for the faint of heart so sometimes staying with the stock frame can get you driving faster and maybe keep the half built project off the buy and sell site.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by 8man

Looking good. As asked above, what gauges and what type of speedometer set up?

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Nice gauges. I'm having trouble being motivated also and my next purchase happens to be the need for some nice gauges. Which ones did you decide on and are you using a GPS speed sensor?

Dolphin Digital Gauges. I did not do the GPS. My thought was what if its really cloudy outside. I am going to use a pulse generator. These ones you mark exactly a mile then press a button drive a mile then press it again and it self calibrates. Worked perfectly on my 28 Ford. For $330 and it comes with all sending units its a great deal.

Also got the bed all bolted down tonight and the inner fenders wielded in. Just need to put some wood on it now.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by dsraven

mopar,
if you have the original frame you could do a bolt in ifs and fab a rear suspension,or use a modified stock rear suspension with leafs, and then everything would fit.
don't rule out building your own frame with a bolt in front ifs either. if you have fab skills and access to some straight beams to use for a jig, it could be relatively straight forward compared to a frame swap. trust me, frame swap is a lot of work, more so than a bolt in ifs on your old frame.
lots of guys also swap in a front suspension from something else, then do a big c notch out back and then, if you look at it, the only stock chunk of frame left is the part the cab sits on.might as well start over. it might be straighter, lol. what do you have to start with, got a build thread or pics?

not meant to offend anybody, there is a lot of work that has gone into some of these builds and there is some nice stuff sitting on S10 undercarriage. just saying from personal experience that a frame swap is not for the faint of heart so sometimes staying with the stock frame can get you driving faster and maybe keep the half built project off the buy and sell site.

He is correct. The amount of time is probably about equal. The time you save on brakes and suspension work is spent on making the bed fit and mounting the cab and front end. Money wise the S10 swap is probably cheaper though if you use everything. Also depends on what you start with. My original frame needed everything. It had been sitting for 30 years. It has been nice to be able to run to the local auto parts store for everything though.

[dsraven]

yeah, thats what I'm talking about. time for time comparison. if you start with the frame from the truck and install a bolt in ifs, like a scott's unit, then upgrade the rear axle to something that has easily available parts and a good gear ratio for your needs,install the torque tube delete kit on the rear suspension to work with a standard leaf spring set up (new springs as well), then your cab will fit, the box fits, the bumpers fit etc.the power plant would likely be swapped no matter what option you go with so that is a wash in my eyes. it's all based on what you have for cash and skills and cash, and skills. less cash equals more sweat equity so more skills and tools and more time spent before the first ride, plus more chance you will just give up and start using the old truck for a shelf in the shop. good on guys who do the swap and follow it through in a timely fashion or even take years to finish but don't give up.

[Mopar17]

Originally Posted by dsraven

mopar,
if you have the original frame you could do a bolt in ifs and fab a rear suspension,or use a modified stock rear suspension with leafs, and then everything would fit.
don't rule out building your own frame with a bolt in front ifs either. if you have fab skills and access to some straight beams to use for a jig, it could be relatively straight forward compared to a frame swap. trust me, frame swap is a lot of work, more so than a bolt in ifs on your old frame.
lots of guys also swap in a front suspension from something else, then do a big c notch out back and then, if you look at it, the only stock chunk of frame left is the part the cab sits on.might as well start over. it might be straighter, lol. what do you have to start with, got a build thread or pics?

not meant to offend anybody, there is a lot of work that has gone into some of these builds and there is some nice stuff sitting on S10 undercarriage. just saying from personal experience that a frame swap is not for the faint of heart so sometimes staying with the stock frame can get you driving faster and maybe keep the half built project off the buy and sell site.

Posted via Mobile Device

[Mopar17]

Originally Posted by Mopar17

Posted via Mobile Device

I already have my 68 frame built with new IFS. Back end is done with new 4 link coil over. Rear diff is rebuilt , 327 bored and assembled with 302 heads , turbo 350 behind it completely re done as well. I just dropped my 52 cab on the frame to see how it will sit and it looks like it is gonna be a tough build. I’m up for the challenge but looking for advise from someone that has done this swap before. Again I did not want it to be just another S10’s swap I want it to have a different stance when it’s done. Any words of wisdom ?

I should start a different thread. Didn’t mean to jump in on this build thread
Posted via Mobile Device

[28TudorAZ]

More progress.

[Desert1957]

Looks Great!

[28TudorAZ]

More progress. Got the filler tube, fuel tank and lines all figured out. Cut down the filler tube and move the return line. Then used a factory boot.

[8man]

Very nice.

[joedoh]

awesome work man! really cooking

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by joedoh

awesome work man! really cooking

Thanks. I have a question about wheels. I am really thinking about doing away with the spacers since you have found wheels that work without them and have some experience with the backspacing. Do you think these will work? https://www.wheelsforless.com/VN2152861

[joedoh]

they will fit and turn really well on the front, but they will look too far in on the back.

mine are 8 in front with 4 inch backspace and 9 in back with 3.5 backspace. the way backspace and width works, the rears are 1.5" further out toward the fender, an 8 inch wheel is 9 inches wide lip to lip, 4 inch backspace means 5 inch frontspace (hub mounting surface out to street side of rim), a 9 inch wide wheel is 10 inches wide lip to lip, 3.5 backspace means 6.5 frontspace. the fronts turn lock to lock with no rubbing, if I do it again I will probably go 3.5 backspace front and 3 backspace rear.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by joedoh

they will fit and turn really well on the front, but they will look too far in on the back.

mine are 8 in front with 4 inch backspace and 9 in back with 3.5 backspace. the way backspace and width works, the rears are 1.5" further out toward the fender, an 8 inch wheel is 9 inches wide lip to lip, 4 inch backspace means 5 inch frontspace (hub mounting surface out to street side of rim), a 9 inch wide wheel is 10 inches wide lip to lip, 3.5 backspace means 6.5 frontspace. the fronts turn lock to lock with no rubbing, if I do it again I will probably go 3.5 backspace front and 3 backspace rear.

I looked and there isnt really anything with 3.5 backspacing. Which of these wheels would work best for the front and back?
https://www.wheelsforless.com/Classic_Torq_Thrust.html#/filter:accessgroup:20$2522/filter:extrafield2:5x120.65$2520(5x4.75)

[joedoh]

if that is where you are getting wheels, I would plan on buying spacers at least for the rear.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by joedoh

if that is where you are getting wheels, I would plan on buying spacers at least for the rear.

That is the only sizes they make. I checked the manufactures website. What rear axle would I need to eliminate the spacers? Just the blazer one?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

That is the only sizes they make. I checked the manufactures website. What rear axle would I need to eliminate the spacers? Just the blazer one?

yeah a 4x4 blazer or truck axle will eliminate spacers. if you plan to tuck the front dont get a zr2, it will look really wide compared to the front if you go with a standard backspace front wheel.

[28TudorAZ]

Found a cool gas cap and never posted pic of light brackets.

[28TudorAZ]

Put a neutral safety switch on a 700r4. Built this bracket. I used a 4l60e neutral safety switch and shifter shaft.

[joedoh]

good thinking!

[8man]

Very cool. I'd like to know how it hooks up if you don't mind PM'ing me. Don't want to hijack the thread.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by 8man

Very cool. I'd like to know how it hooks up if you don't mind PM'ing me. Don't want to hijack the thread.

I havent hooked it up yet but here is the schematic.

[28TudorAZ]

Got the holes for the seat and seat belt drilled and the seat belts trimmed. Also some insulation installed and cut some metal to make behind the seat all flat. Next up is figuring out the emergency brake pedal.

[28TudorAZ]

Got the emergency brake installed.

[joedoh]

nice work! those e brake pictures will be a great reference for future guys.