Shucks First Build

[daddyjeep]

You may be able to install an in tank fuel pump into that tank, if not just run an external fuel pump. The engine shouldn't care how the fuel gets to it as long as it is the correct pressure.

[aggie91]

If you are keeping the tank, use a Bosch 044 (or similar) external pump with a filter before the pump.

[LT7A]

Hey Shucks, if you get the chance, go back and fix your picture links from the start of your build. I'd like to see the whole story but it gets a bit tedious trying to follow along when the pics are dead. Good luck to ya.

[Shucks]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Hey Shucks, if you get the chance, go back and fix your picture links from the start of your build. I'd like to see the whole story but it gets a bit tedious trying to follow along when the pics are dead. Good luck to ya.

Wow that sucks, I didn't realize they were gone. Hope I didn't lose those, I've got several from the beginning if I can't figure that out
Posted via Mobile Device

[LT7A]

Cool man. It'd be cool to follow along from the beginning. Maybe you need to renew your membership at photoshack? I'm no expert on that stuff, but that appears to be the host of the early pics.

[Shucks]

I updated my subscription with them with no luck. I emailed them to see what I need to do. In the meantime, heres a summary of the pictures that aren't there.














The photos that are missing basically is the engine build it looks like. The rest of the photos start back up on page 3 I believe.

[Shucks]

Here's a little video of it

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Shucks

I updated my subscription with them with no luck. I emailed them to see what I need to do. In the meantime, heres a summary of the pictures that aren't there.

The photos that are missing basically is the engine build it looks like. The rest of the photos start back up on page 3 I believe.

Good deal man. I got on board where the pictures started and read the whole thread. Great work on your truck. I also back you up on the idea of getting the truck put together before you do the LS swap. That'll be cool and it seems that everyone who's done the swap is happy. In the meantime though, it seems that the guys that take on one aspect at a time and are able to get their truck back on the road for awhile in between are happy they did it that way. That's the way I'm heading with mine, since I know what it's like to have a project sit in pieces for a long time.

[rusty76]

Cool truck. I dig it.

[Shucks]

Thanks!

Little update. Got the truck completely torn apart, for the third time... anyone have some good tricks taking the rear fenders off?






I'm open to any paint color ideas as well. Same with wheels.

[wileecoyote427]

Lil heat on the back sides if you can and a trick I learned from an old guy was a tube of valve grinding compound and put it on the torx bit get some extra grip. for the most part I've always had to grind a few off since I never had a torch.

[Cape Codder]

Heat is good and an impact wrench will help. Not a 1/2 drive on full tilt but either a 3/8 or a 1/2" with the air turned down some. A sharp rap with a hammer helps too.

[daddyjeep]

If things get too bad, weld a nut to the torx head so you can use a conventional wrench. The heat also helps break the rust bond.

[Cape Codder]

You gonna do base /clear system? Nice color

[Shucks]

Base coat with the Hardener and reducer mix, and then clear it.

[Shucks]

Can't get enough of it. I can't wait for this!

[Cape Codder]

Hardener normally goes in the clear coat not the base. What kind of paint are you using?

[jott_06]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Hardener normally goes in the clear coat not the base. What kind of paint are you using?

Most companies do have activator for their basecoat, though most guys don't use it. I used to activate my basecoat when I sprayed PPG autocolor years ago. But your right the clear coat definately needs hardener.

[Shucks]

It's OMNI brand. But that's what they gave me was both hardner and reducer. I haven't sprayed yet but I'll have to do some research I guess. They gave me the Hardner and I didn't buy clear coat yet so it must go in it.

[Cape Codder]

Sounds like you have either an acrylic enamel or a single stage urethane. Neither is a good thing to learn with. Basecoat Omni only requires reducer the hardener goes in the clear. Acrylic enamel or single stage urethane do not require clear They should shine as sprayed. Make sure you know what you have before painting and do some research before spraying. Read and follow any instructions on the can.

[Shucks]

Research will definitely be going into it. My uncle who is a former painter is helping me when it comes to it so I'm having him lead me.

[Cape Codder]

Glad to hear you have a coach. If you plan to spray it yourself get a few wrecked panels and do some trial sprays to get the feel of it. The first complete paint I ever did was my brother in laws old early 60's Chevy pick up. Glenwood green a one day thrash to prep and paint it that evening. Great practice and it looked far better than before bu a 15 footer for sure
That was around 1976.

[Shucks]

Definitely would be comfortable on my own. I'm also not expecting a show stopper paint job, it would be cool but I just can't afford a professional paint job. I hope this turns out half descent though!

[Chris.S]

Its going to look like my truck good choice haha

[Shucks]

Alright I'm in need of some input. The paint I ended up getting is a 2K Urethane. I told the guy I wanted a basecoat then clear coat and he must have thought I wanted two and two together, so no clear coat. Now this color sure looks like it has some sort of metallic in it and I've researched that Urethane paint jobs can look really good and they can last awhile but avoid metallic colors. Should I see if I can return the paint (which I don't know if that's even possible) for a basecoat clearcoat system or do you guys think I'll be OK to use this paint I have?