S10 Swap how to

[mr incredible]

very nice

[Garyhenrich]

The best advice is put your cab on the frame, then put your engine 1 inch forward of the firewall, then remove your cab and finish the install of the drive train. Also, look at posts around #55 in this thread and see some pictures of a placement for the mounts and some other comments. Frames are slightly different on the s-10 from the 80's to the 90's. Make sure any pictures you look at match your frame if you don't mount it to your exact cab placement.

[Coldshot]

Thanks, I'll have to get the body mounted then get it mesured up. Still saving for the Trans T56

[Coldshot]

Earlier in the thread you mentioned using acid to remove the wax frame coating for good welds. I have a small hand held sandblaster, will that do the job? Or is acid still th best choice?

[skymangs]

Coldshot; I use 71 Camaro motor mounts now. (cheaper), and build my pedestals out of tube steel and 3/16th uprights. And yes. get your cab mounted up before you mount your driveline. You need an inch of clearance from the firewall. That is to give you maximum clearance for your e-fan up front.

Bauto52; my best advice is that either route requires lots of research, careful measurements, and some mechanical aptitude to accomplish. In the end, it's a matter of preference. Some will tell you that S10 swaps are a "hack job", but if they are done correctly, they are very roadworthy and safe. It is important on either MII or S10 swap, not to cut corners. Nothing is more frightening than an unsafe vehicle!

User Error; The one on the passenger head should be between the second and third exhaust port. You can use that one, that is the "non ecm" sensor. That is used for the gauge. The drivers side should be between the 1st and 2nd exhaust port. Identified by a plug. Pull the plug and insert your new coolant probe or aftermarket sensor.

Coldshot: sandblasting may work, but likely it will work the wax farther into the pores. I always use the Muriatic acid.

Fod's Garage; You are correct. on 47-50 the rear stand should be 3/4" taller than the front. For 51-54, it should be 1/4" taller.

Californiadaddy; You need S10 V8 conversion headers. The ones you posted look to be correct, but be sure the drivers side header has the center 2 tubes sticking out. The steering shaft will have to go through those two tubes to the column. The headers should like like picture 2.

[bauto52]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Coldshot; I use 71 Camaro motor mounts now. (cheaper), and build my pedestals out of tube steel and 3/16th uprights. And yes. get your cab mounted up before you mount your driveline. You need an inch of clearance from the firewall. That is to give you maximum clearance for your e-fan up front.

Bauto52; my best advice is that either route requires lots of research, careful measurements, and some mechanical aptitude to accomplish. In the end, it's a matter of preference. Some will tell you that S10 swaps are a "hack job", but if they are done correctly, they are very roadworthy and safe. It is important on either MII or S10 swap, not to cut corners. Nothing is more frightening than an unsafe vehicle!
User Error; The one on the passenger head should be between the second and third exhaust port. You can use that one, that is the "non ecm" sensor. That is used for the gauge. The drivers side should be between the 1st and 2nd exhaust port. Identified by a plug. Pull the plug and insert your new coolant probe or aftermarket sensor.

Coldshot: sandblasting may work, but likely it will work the wax farther into the pores. I always use the Muriatic acid.

Fod's Garage; You are correct. on 47-50 the rear stand should be 3/4" taller than the front. For 51-54, it should be 1/4" taller.

Californiadaddy; You need S10 V8 conversion headers. The ones you posted look to be correct, but be sure the drivers side header has the center 2 tubes sticking out. The steering shaft will have to go through those two tubes to the column. The headers should like like picture 2.

Thanks for the info (all of it) it's my first build so i am reading all. I bought an s/10 and have stripped it to the frame, but still haven't made up my mind to use it,,thanks again

[Coldshot]

Thanks for the info. So you use 71 camaro mounts on the LS swaps? I'm just wondering if I can figure out a mount that would go to the stock frame cradles. There's lots of LS conversion mounts that can push the motor back to up to 6" or so.
I'll just have to get my body on first and measure I guess.
Do you have any pics of LS swaps you have done?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Coldshot

Thanks for the info. So you use 71 camaro mounts on the LS swaps? I'm just wondering if I can figure out a mount that would go to the stock frame cradles. There's lots of LS conversion mounts that can push the motor back to up to 6" or so.
I'll just have to get my body on first and measure I guess.
Do you have any pics of LS swaps you have done?

I do have pics. https://www.facebook.com/OSGcustoms
I'll get a thread together on this '54 LS conversion by this weekend or so.

[mr incredible]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I do have pics. https://www.facebook.com/OSGcustoms
I'll get a thread together on this '54 LS conversion by this weekend or so.

cool.. have a great thanks giving

[dettmer13]

Glad to see you back skymangs!!! I have a question. I'm working on a 51 Chevy 3100. I've read through this thread multiple times. Can you cover more of what radiator you use, maybe post a link for to speedway motor's site? I'm running a 5.3L LM7 on a 92 S10 frame. Thanks in advance!!!

[918733]

Would you happen to know the specs on those artillery wheels and tires

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by 918733

Would you happen to know the specs on those artillery wheels and tires

Wheels are 15x8 rear, 15x7 front and spare. Rear tires and spare are 255/70r15, fronts are 225/70r15. The spare is on a 7 inch wheel to tuck it closer to the bed side.

[skymangs]

Thanks. You too!

[skymangs]

I just tacked the stands on that 84 frame tonight. I took some measurements to verify for you. Rear edge of front stands 2 1/8 forward of the edge of the oval hole. Front edge of rear stand 10 1/2 behind the 5/8" frame hole. From front edge of rear stand to rear edge of front stand is exactly 33 1/4". Not sure why you are getting a different measurement. This one is a long bed rev cab as well.

[skymangs]

The flex coupling is a stock piece from the donor Suburban. AC compressor is the stock Denso compressor from the suburban, in the stock low mount bracket. The truck uses a stock Silverado belt still.

[Garyhenrich]

Just getting ready to mount my engine and trany, is there any reason besides cost that you choose to use solid welded motor mounts rather than ones with poly or rubber?

[skymangs]

I use rubber mounts. 71 Camaro mounts are cheap, and they bolt to the engine. The uprights just replace the stock perches... no way I"d solid mount an engine, makes everything vibrate!

[Garyhenrich]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I use rubber mounts. 71 Camaro mounts are cheap, and they bolt to the engine. The uprights just replace the stock perches... no way I"d solid mount an engine, makes everything vibrate!

Thanks, that makes sense to me now. I'll get the camero mounts and get the engine in this weekend.

I still have not been able to figure out why my measurements for the cab stands don't match yours. I have measured them a couple dozen times in different ways in case I'm reading your notes wrong and can't come up with 33 1/4. There must be something different with my holes, my frame certainly does not match the pictures you have posted, but I figured it was just a variation on the year. I'll just need to put the cab on and make sure there right before welding. Thx again!

[Coldshot]

I've been surfing the s10 forum for a wile and a guy with a blazer got lengthened front control arms from Michigan metal works. They will cut them to what ever length you want. His cost him $1000 for the set, upper/lowers. I checked out there site and they have really good prices if anyone is looking for control arms. But my question now is what do you or have you done to widen the front track width to match the rear width? Besides spacers.
So far from searching a wile on this, Michigan metal works will be the way I go but would love to hear other people's plans.

[Garyhenrich]

I got this great message today:
I think I figured out your Issue with the cab stand measurements. I am sitting here looking at my bare frame right now. Feel free to give me a call and I will explain what I think is going on.
Curt

So I called Curt on the phone, we stood at our frames and sure enough my frame does not have the 5/8" hole in the same place as his. Either way, the 33 1/4" between the two cab stands is correct, but not everyone has the rear 5/8" hole. Thanks Curt, I hope to have my fully restored cab on my s-10 chassis by Christmas.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Garyhenrich

I got this great message today:
I think I figured out your Issue with the cab stand measurements. I am sitting here looking at my bare frame right now. Feel free to give me a call and I will explain what I think is going on.
Curt

So I called Curt on the phone, we stood at our frames and sure enough my frame does not have the 5/8" hole in the same place as his. Either way, the 33 1/4" between the two cab stands is correct, but not everyone has the rear 5/8" hole. Thanks Curt, I hope to have my fully restored cab on my s-10 chassis by Christmas.

Glad you solved the false measurement issue. I've never seen a frame that was any different (and I've seen quite a few). Now I'll be double checking each frame. That would be exactly the reason I tack the mounts in place until I've verified that the cab fits.

[Garyhenrich]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Glad you solved the false measurement issue. I've never seen a frame that was any different (and I've seen quite a few). Now I'll be double checking each frame. That would be exactly the reason I tack the mounts in place until I've verified that the cab fits.

My frame does not have the 5/8" hole 10 1/2" forward of the rear cab mount location, because of that, in error I used a 5/8" hole about 12" REAR of the rear cab mount location and measured forward. All good now, thanks for a great thread!

[skymangs]

Sorry coldshot. I use spacers. A grand for control arms is out of most of my customers budgets. I've built quite a few, and have been driving the 48 for over 2 years. No problems yet.

[Coldshot]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Sorry coldshot. I use spacers. A grand for control arms is out of most of my customers budgets. I've built quite a few, and have been driving the 48 for over 2 years. No problems yet.

What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Coldshot

What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

I use 2 inch spacers on most builds. My kids truck has 1.25" spacers. Thanks for the info. Always good to have options!