Project Screamer - '72 GMC K2500 + DD 4-53T

[OutlawDrifter]

Glad to see you posting again. I'm in the process of putting up a new shop also, which has halted all of my automotive therapy!

[Lemield]

Beautiful work as usual! Glad to see you back!

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice building and more great work on the truck! I can't wait until I can build a big building to fill up!

[ryanroo]

Awesome! i shift mine all the time. engine noises included. the new building is fantastic too!

[burnitg]

Inner fenders - done!

I decided to tackle the inner fenders since I need them in place to design and fabricate the battery tray and air filter brackets.

Both had to be modified since I have a 2" body lift and the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to blower piping interfered with them. I never imagined that it would take me so long to finish them.

Here's the driver's side inner fender with the new metal tacked into place. I didn't need to modify it much.



Here's the driver's sided inner fender installed.



Here's the passenger side inner fender with the new metal tacked into place, I had to custom build the lower half of this one. The turbocharger to intercooler piping interfered with it in a major way.



Here's the passenger's side welded up.



Here's the passenger's side completed.



Now I'm on to the battery tray.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work. Those look great!

[burnitg]

Another DIY project...

Space is getting tight under the hood of the old GMC. As always, I work down in size starting with the big things and working down to the small ones. The next two big things are the air filter and the batteries.

I decided that I would use two starting batteries. Detroit Diesels do not have any glow plugs or intake heaters and they MUST use single viscosity SAE 40 oil, so I will need some serious battery power to start on cold days. I have installed a block heater so I can get it going from home on cold days; but, that won't help if it has been sitting all day in a parking lot on a cold day.

I spent several hours on the air filter manufacturers' websites looking for an OEM filter that would meet my air flow and space needs. Everything that I found was too big in at least one dimension. So, I decided to make my own air filter housing. Because I was able to fit it in a relatively small space, I could use the stock battery tray and a stock auxiliary battery tray to mount the two batteries.

I found a rectangular K&N filter that would flow enough air and patterned the housing off of it. It is the same filter used in my '99 F-250 Powerstroke so I know it will flow enough air and I love parts interchangeability.

Here's the cardboard template for the base:



Here are the sides in steel:



Here's the top view with the filter:



Here's the auxiliary battery tray modified and installed:



I'll post more photos in the following post.

[burnitg]

Another DIY Project - Part 2

Got anger issues (I don't, I'm retired )? Here's a way to get them out - pounding the crap out of a piece of sheet metal. I decided to make the top of my air filter housing curved so I got out the hammer and sand bag and started pounding on the top. Here's what it looked like about half way through:



Here's what it looked like when I finished:



Here's the completed filter housing on the bench:



Here it is installed in the truck:



I'll install some flexible ducting between the inlet and core support so I will have a cold air intake.

[Dieselwrencher]

Kudos to you! That is a very nice looking air filter box and top! Did you use a regular type tube sand bag?

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Kudos to you! That is a very nice looking air filter box and top! Did you use a regular type tube sand bag?

Thanks for the complement. I used a regular sandbag and teardrop hammer. You can see the bag in the lower right of the photo. I rolled the dents out with an English wheel.

Burnett

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by burnitg

Thanks for the complement. I used a regular sandbag and teardrop hammer. You can see the bag in the lower right of the photo. I rolled the dents out with an English wheel.

Burnett

Very nice! Isn't it amazing how many hours go into doing all these fabricated pieces that a lot of people will never know. I need to get some different shaped hammers and start messing up some sheet metal. An english wheel would be nice too.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Very nice! Isn't it amazing how many hours go into doing all these fabricated pieces that a lot of people will never know. I need to get some different shaped hammers and start messing up some sheet metal. An english wheel would be nice too.

I agree that making parts takes a lot of time. I'm glad it's my hobby and not my job. I'd starve to death trying to make a living this way...

[Average Joe]

That air box is amazing. Quality work!!!!!!

[OutlawDrifter]

Fine job sir!

[Dieselwrencher]

This might be an expensive solution, but are any of the billet hinges shorter? GSI I believe makes them and they can be gotten black anodized to not stand out so much if you wanted. Maybe they would fit and you can retain the nice air box?

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

This might be an expensive solution, but are any of the billet hinges shorter? GSI I believe makes them and they can be gotten black anodized to not stand out so much if you wanted. Maybe they would fit and you can retain the nice air box?

Thanks. New hinges are one of the options that I am considering. I think that I will leave it alone for a couple weeks. After some time has passed, I will be able to evaluate the options more objectively.

[AnotherWs6]

This thing is awesome.

What kind of power figures does that motor put out?

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by AnotherWs6

This thing is awesome.

What kind of power figures does that motor put out?

175 Hp @ 2500 RPM
420 ft-lbs @ 1800 RPM.

I'm going to keep it stock for now.

[winslowgoodwin]

very nice build

[mattfranklin]

I don't think I saw this build before. Very cool. And the funny thing is that I'm not normally a huge fan of diesel conversions.

But this one is different. Cool fab skills. AND I have spent hundreds of hours next to a 4-53 just like this one in the engine lab. I love the scream of these beasts. I see the pics and I can almost hear it. And smell it.

Nice work!

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by mattfranklin

I don't think I saw this build before. Very cool. And the funny thing is that I'm not normally a huge fan of diesel conversions.

But this one is different. Cool fab skills. AND I have spent hundreds of hours next to a 4-53 just like this one in the engine lab. I love the scream of these beasts. I see the pics and I can almost hear it. And smell it.

Nice work!

Thanks for the complement. We share a love of the sounds that Detroit Diesels make.

I haven't made much progress lately. We have a short summer here (the aspen leaves are already turning) so I spend my summers working outside.

I'm currently focusing on completing the underhood - the air filtration, A/C and electrical systems.

Burnett

[burnitg]

A little restoration is good for the soul...

Summer is over, the chain saw and wood splitter are put up for the winter and the plow is on the Mog. Time to get back to work on the old GMC.

I restored/modified the A/C unit for the truck. I decided to do it now because of my paranoia from the air cleaner housing debacle. I want to make sure that I know where the all parts will be when I finally come up with an air filter design.

Even though I purchased the truck in an area where good A/C is important (St. George, UT), I knew that there were issues. The brass gate valve in the heater hose was the first clue:



In the 5 years that I drove the truck before I started this project, the A/C performance was disappointing. I checked the pressures and they were good - so there was plenty of Freon and the compressor worked fine.

After I disassembled the A/C unit, I found that the warm/cold air damper was binding on both sides so it would not seal in either heat mode or cool mode. In fact, the gap on either side at full travel was more than an inch. No wonder, the A/C didn't work satisfactorily. The only good news is that the heater puts out so much heat that it was able to overcome the cold air coming through the evaporator (at 9000' elevation, heat is much more important than A/C). A little trimming of the damper gaskets solved the problem. Now it snuggles into the gasket on both sides and seals well.

I also decided to convert from the continuous running POA style control to the cycling compressor control. This meant a new evaporator and accumulator had to be installed. I will modify the wiring later when I complete the engine compartment harness.

Here's what it looks like all cleaned up and sitting in the truck:



Now that I have both ends fixed, I can start working on the tubing and hoses for the refrigerant.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking very nice! I regret not finishing my AC stuff the first time. I'll have to revisit that, uh, sometime?

[burnitg]

What is it about electricity?

Every used vehicle that I have purchased has included some electrical modification(s) by the previous owner(s). Every one of the modifications have been dangerous in some way. For one, none of the modifications have included proper circuit protection. Most have included lamp cord - not the best for automotive wiring, few have included any protection from chafing, etc. It has all been bad.

My '72 was no exception. The only difference was that the previous owner(s) were good at hiding their sins. I didn't find the poor wiring until I took the truck apart. Then, I couldn't believe that I had driven it for 5 years without having a fire. I'm happy to be lucky...

I'm adding a few circuits of my own and intend to do the job right. I need both new circuits and relays to control some substantial loads - trailer wiring, vacuum pump and air compressor. I started with a Painless Wiring Cirkit Boss and a Hella Relay Panel.

The Cirkit Boss has 4 circuits powered from a relay that operates from the ignition key and 3 always hot circuits. I have used one on my daily driver for 15 years and it has performed flawlessly.

Since the wires come out the bottom of both the Cirkit Boss and the relay panel, I fabricated a mounting bracket for the to mount to the driver's side inner fender. Here it is on the workbench:



Here it is mocked up in the pickup from the front:



Here it is from the side:



A couple of coats of black paint and it will be ready to go.

Since the hoses for the hydroboost and power steering arrived from Summit Racing, I decided to mock them up as well:



I'm making progress on the underhood equipment, I still have a ways to go...

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice work! Did you make the hoses or do they offer a kit for them? Those fittings for the hydraboost and pump weren't cheap when I got mine.