![]() |
![]() |
#151 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
more pics. And thanks for everyone's comments. They are much appreciated and I'm learning the paint and body side of things, so all suggestions are welcome.
One other thing, I'm learning the proper gun setup and distance from the work piece. I'm trying to find the sweet spot where the epoxy goes on smooth and wet but doesn't run vs a dry rough texture. I'm starting to figure it out I think. The gas tank was smooth except for some cotton (trees are shedding right now) and dust with one run. I slowed the gun down and tried to keep it about 8" from the tank. Thx for looking. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#152 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bryan, Texas
Posts: 2,311
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Nice progress!
__________________
8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#153 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Thanks, 8man. Maybe I will be where you are on your project one day. I can say that I'm getting tired of bodywork and I'm only halfway there.
Anyway, time for a small update. I've been moving along slowly over the last month mostly focusing on the doors, rear fenders, inner tubs, and rear bumper with high-build polyester. Most parts are taking 3 sanding rounds. It amazes me the time and effort required to get things "straight". I don't want to think about the hours that I have in the doors alone from metal work, fab work for power windows, Mita handles, body work, and final detail work with high build. ![]() Complaining doesn't speed things up either, so I will move on. ![]() I finally got the 2.3 nozzle that I needed to spray the high build and went to spraying. It sprays pink and sands gray with the pink acting like a built-in guide coat. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#154 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
A few pictures of the first sanding round. You can see the low spots, most of which usually cleared up on the second round. I was mostly struggling with the lines that moved from one plane to another and tweaking the low spots and still keeping the lines.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#155 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Then it was on to the doors and stepping and repeating. Or wax on and wax off that I tell the boss. One side note - this kind of repetition seems to be good for the rotator cuff recovery. My PT has been pleased.
![]() Along the way and on final sanding, I double check with Mirka guide coat. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#156 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,026
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
It's great when you can see the hard work pay off.
Looks like a cool set up for spraying. Any complaints from the neighbors? There's a do-gooder in every crowd, lol. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#157 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,026
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Every time I spray outside I get too many bugs sticking, then crawling across the wet coat. How about yours?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#158 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
I bounce around a little as I get tired of the bodywork. I find that I get impatient and want to rush and I know that will cause potential problems as this phase of the project will give me the best-looking results in the end.
Thanks to mobileortho for his recommendation for the Dirty Dingo bracket to mount my A/C. I was thinking I would need to clearance the frame. Albeit, I was trying to keep the stock compressor from the Escalade to save some money. Happy to send some $'s to not cut the frame! Also, trying to get the cab ready for the media blaster. I need to get it there in time to sit in line and then get back and get in primer before Elk hunting starts in a couple of months. By the fall, I hope to have the body work done with the bed, fenders, tubs, bumper and doors with the cab in epoxy. That allows me to bodywork the cab over several months in the garage while it's cold out. We shall see. That's all for now. Thx. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#159 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Quote:
One lady stopped while walking the dog one morning and laughed and said - "at first I thought you were putting up some strange child's playset then I realized what you were doing. I've been watching you work on your truck for months." ![]() The bugs haven't been a big issue for the most part. The cotton sheading in May/June was a real pain. Nice part about this phase, I just sand it out and do small touch ups as a go. I can't wait until I have the space for doing this stuff inside! Last edited by rnrdthefox; 07-06-2022 at 07:10 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#160 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bryan, Texas
Posts: 2,311
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Sanding is a major PITA, but you are killin' it!
__________________
8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#161 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: somewhere, PA
Posts: 1,071
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
i admire the patients in the prep work, keep it up cuz you are on the path to amazing results.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#162 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Scotts, Michigan
Posts: 3,770
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
All of that prep work looks great. There are no shortcuts to a great paint job.
Marc
__________________
…………...........__________ .................. ((__|__||___\____ ..;.;;.:;:;.,;..;((_(O))____ (_(O)) 1948 Chevy Truck - Finished SOLD!! 1953 Chevy Suburban "Family Truckster" Completed: Spring of 2021 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=605484 1994 4x4 Blazer - "Field Find" https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ferrerid=30857 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#163 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Thanks for the comments, guys.
Time for a little update. I've got the cab into the media blaster and should be getting it back the week of the Aug 8th. In the meantime, I wanted to get some of the tasks that I've been putting off for a while because the cab was in the way. First up was the Gen 1 oil pan and Pontiac G6 tranny pan. The pics below show how low the truck pans stick down below the cross member. I was concerned that the wife would hit something and crack a pan and end up stranded (and even worse, trash the engine or tranny). Last edited by rnrdthefox; 07-31-2022 at 11:59 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#164 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
I've had these parts for over a year now waiting to do this. A few pics of the process and the final pic of the underside. Both pans are now higher than the cross member.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#165 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
A couple things about the Gen 1 oil pan. It comes with an oil level sensor in it which I deleted with a plug. One of the bosses needs to be drilled out. Also, one of the bosses on the side of the pan that the tranny lines attach to on the truck pan is gone. Not a big deal, just ended up making a bracket.
I wanted to keep the bracket as I like how the tranny lines dump out right in front of the P/S rack. It will make plumbing the lines through the cooler straight forward. It also holds part of the harness to the starter and knock sensors. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#166 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Next up was the fuel lines. Ended up going with braided stainless hoses for the fuel line and the line that allows the engine to scavenge the charcoal canister fumes. The 5/8 line that allows the tank to vent for fueling was nowhere to be found. I tried to find the nylon hose from Dorman, but they said it was on backorder for at least 3 months. Ended up using a push connect hose so I could use the stock fittings. It's just a fat hose and I don't like it but didn't have much of an option.
Last edited by rnrdthefox; 08-01-2022 at 12:04 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#167 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
I decided to invest in a few tools that would make the install easier and the end product look nicer. The master cool flaring tool will come in handy for the other fluid systems that have to be plumbed. I've resisted getting this tool due to the price, but it is Very nice and works the stainless lines easily. The other item was a nutzert tool. Pleased with it so far.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#168 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
I started thinking that while the cab is off, I should look at the chassis harness and get a feel for how it will layout. There were several modules on the Escalade that I won't be using. Mainly the Trailer Brake Control Module (TBCM), ABS, and Vehicle Stability Enhancement System (VSES). I started removing all the wires that were part of these systems. I still have some work to do, but it eliminated a lot of wiring.
At this point, I need to extend the fuel pump and tank pressure sensor along with the line pressure sensor, purge valve and mount the Fuel System Control Module (FSCM). Also, need to swap the left and right taillight pins in the connector since the harness was made for the left side of the chassis and I'm going to put it on the right side. That's all for now. More to come. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#169 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Doodah Kansas
Posts: 7,773
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
i have been wondering about the master cool flaring tool, I always have to flare lines on the truck or its tremendously inconvenient to take them to a vise and flaring the GM stainless lines sucks too, takes several tries to get it right. thanks for the confirmation that its worth the price.
just staggeringly beautiful work, you think of everything!
__________________
the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation if there is a problem, I can have it. new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#170 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Wow. It's been a few months. I've almost dropped to the third page.
![]() Took a few months off after hunting season to just step away from the project. I find that when I'm not in the mood to work on things, I tend to do poor work or create more work for myself. It's time to catch up with my progress. Just before hunting started, I picked the cab up from the media blaster. Turned out well, but it did find a few more spots of rot to deal with. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#171 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
The one area I wasn't expecting was the vent on the cowl. It makes sense, but visually, it looked ok before blasting. The part that was aggravating was that I couldn't find an aftermarket part, so I had to drill it out and repair it. It's ready to go back in and will be on the list for next weekend.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#172 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
I got the cab in Epoxy which was the goal before I left for hunting. I plan to work on the cab most of the winter.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#173 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
Recently, I've been working to get the outer cowl panels on, and the door gaps set. I don't know why, but this has evolved into several weeks. The driver door was caught by the wind at one point and turned back into the cowl. As I started working the details, I started to notice that the hinges, post and other things were tweaked. I finally got the driver's door set and gaps "ok". I noticed the driver cab corner is off some. Still deciding if I will fix it or not. I'm not sure if I was off when I replaced the outer door skin or had the door out of alignment when I put the corner on or if I simply messed up the corner.
I ended up keeping the old sheet metal and replacing the bottoms. They simply fit better. Very pleased with the passenger side as it's 95% where I want it, but I can still fiddle with it some more. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#174 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
While I had the cowls off, I worked on the conduit for the wiring that will go to the doors for the windows and door locks. The kit is from specialty power windows. I like the concept but didn't like the rubber gromet that they want you to use inside of the cowl (or door) to hold the plastic tube. I figured over time, the rubber would come off and create an issue. I decided to make my own (brown ones) out of delrin. I added three small screws to hold them in place.
Once this was done, I buttoned up the cowls and put three coats of Epoxy on them. Last edited by rnrdthefox; 01-03-2023 at 08:19 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#175 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 221
|
Re: 1953 3100 "Honey-do"
The goal this winter is to have the cab ready for high-build primer in the spring. I've started on the body work and I'm also working on some of the mechanical items that need to be done as far as welding and drilling go. If I can have the door jams, outside, and front cowl done I'll be happy. I want to have the dash done, but still have some details to work out with the console integration and vent system for the HVAC.
There were a number of small dents and pitting in the roof. I'm getting better with my guide coat and feel like the roof turned out good. There wasn't much filler once all the sanding was done. That's all for now. Thanks. Last edited by rnrdthefox; 01-11-2023 at 05:56 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|