S10 Swap how to

[chuckmc8]

Thanks for the quality info and write up
on this swap

[skymangs]

Sorry, I've been pretty busy lately. Thank you all for the kind comments. I had never even thought of flipping the springs to move the rear end forward... I'd have to look at it, and see what effect it would have on the pinion angle.

I've never used longer A-frames. Most of my customers are on a pretty tight budget, and items like that tend to add up quickly. I will look into it though.

The '54 LS1 truck just ran for the first time today! I'll get a thread going on it when I have a few hours to spare.

[mr incredible]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Sorry, I've been pretty busy lately. Thank you all for the kind comments. I had never even thought of flipping the springs to move the rear end forward... I'd have to look at it, and see what effect it would have on the pinion angle.

I've never used longer A-frames. Most of my customers are on a pretty tight budget, and items like that tend to add up quickly. I will look into it though.

The '54 LS1 truck just ran for the first time today! I'll get a thread going on it when I have a few hours to spare.

i wanna see this

[skymangs]

here's a link to the run video. fuel injected, electronic throttle, vintage air, artillery's and Coker wide whites... the whole shebang!
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...type=2&theater

[skymangs]

Here's a few pics of the '54 in progress. and a link if you'd like to see all the work.

https://www.facebook.com/OSGcustoms

[CaliforniaDaddy]

Oh thats so sweet!!

[mr incredible]

very nice

[Coldshot]

I'm new to this forum but was given the link to this thread. I'm just starting my body swap. 51' to 91' 108" frame. Putting in an IRS and an lq4 6.0l LS based motor. What I'm wondering is what you do fr motor mounts for the LS. I've heard about using chevelle ls conversion mounts to the v6 frame cradles? I see you always make your mounts but how far back from stock location do you go? The chevelle plates mount around 4" back I think.

Great thread by the way! Will be using it for reference for sure.
Thanks

[Garyhenrich]

The best advice is put your cab on the frame, then put your engine 1 inch forward of the firewall, then remove your cab and finish the install of the drive train. Also, look at posts around #55 in this thread and see some pictures of a placement for the mounts and some other comments. Frames are slightly different on the s-10 from the 80's to the 90's. Make sure any pictures you look at match your frame if you don't mount it to your exact cab placement.

[Coldshot]

Thanks, I'll have to get the body mounted then get it mesured up. Still saving for the Trans T56

[bauto52]

I own 2 55 chevy belair and now bought a 1952 4 window truck out of a chicken house,,it's been there 29 years. I am trying to make up my mind on which way to go with this truck..I do know i want a fuel inj engine and 4L60E,,I do know I want an independent front sup,,I have begun reading all the info on this site and still confussed..Which is the best way to go,,,change frames,,clip frontend,,what??Help,,

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

User Error; The TBI motor uses 2 temp senders. The one on the passenger head is for the gauge only, The one on the intake is for the ECM. Replace the one on the head with your new sending unit. The ECM doesn't read oil pressure, so you are good to replace that sender anyway.

So, to re-cap, leave the temp sensor in the intake, replace the one in the head with the Dolphin supplied one. Replace the Oil pressure sender with the Dolphin supplied one. Should work like a charm.

There is also a plugged sensor hole on the driver side head (near the exhaust manifold) you can use if you don't want to mess with the original ones.

Yeah I may have to use the one in the drivers side head... The one in the pass head has a single spade connector coming out of it with a red wire attached with a female spade... no clue what it's going to... it runs up to the original loom and I haven't tore it apart to see where it goes... I got into doing a little test lighting on the cluster plug today and found that the pin out you posted is different than mine... I've got no pins in 1,2,3 and 4 and 10 are blinker feeds. 16 is ignition + power... Still unsure on just what year this S10 was... I guess I will just start hooking up one gauge at a time and see where I end up... Can you or someone post a pic of the driver side coolant port I can use for that temp sender? Oil I should be good, just going to use the one where the current mechanical sender is... Speedo, I'm going to need to order a plug since the trans has nothing in that location currently... when I do that can I just run that direct to the speedo? or will I need to include the ECM back into the circuit?

[Garyhenrich]

Originally Posted by bauto52

I own 2 55 chevy belair and now bought a 1952 4 window truck out of a chicken house,,it's been there 29 years. I am trying to make up my mind on which way to go with this truck..I do know i want a fuel inj engine and 4L60E,,I do know I want an independent front sup,,I have begun reading all the info on this site and still confussed..Which is the best way to go,,,change frames,,clip frontend,,what??Help,,

Bauto, I would recommend that to repost this great question as a new thread, you may get better responses if if we're not in this how to frame swap thread.

[Code504.com]

Edit by Forum Staff

[Coldshot]

Earlier in the thread you mentioned using acid to remove the wax frame coating for good welds. I have a small hand held sandblaster, will that do the job? Or is acid still th best choice?

[Fod's Garage]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Now we get to the meat and potatoes of how this build works. Attached you will see my frame swap cab stands, complete with measurements and pics so they can be duplicated for your build. The following schematic is for 47-50 cabs. These were center mount cabs, you will need to weld a 6"x6" 1/4" plate on the bottom of the floor on each side to re-enforce the floor for the new cab stands.

If you have a 51-54 cab, you will need to remove 1/2" from the "above frame" portion of the rear cab stands and add a 1/2" delron spacer above the stock S10 body mount (this fits between the factory floor braces)

I bend the lower legs out at a 15deg. angle to decrease stress on the side of the frame

both these use the stock S10 body mount bushings above the cab stands.

In both of your drawings the rear stand is 3/4in taller than the front. Am I understanding correctly that these are for the 47-50 cabs? Then on a 51-54 cab the rear stand would be 1/4in taller than the front? Thanks for the clarification.

[CaliforniaDaddy]

What headers can be used with the S10 chassis swap on a SBC350?
Im looking at these.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/301252473208...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



http://www.ebay.com/itm/330844813420...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



http://www.ebay.com/itm/150910783321...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[skymangs]

Sorry folks, I've been extremely busy finishing up this '54, and haven't been online much. I'll answer questions and post pics of the finished 54 when I can get my kids off the laptop!

[skymangs]

Coldshot; I use 71 Camaro motor mounts now. (cheaper), and build my pedestals out of tube steel and 3/16th uprights. And yes. get your cab mounted up before you mount your driveline. You need an inch of clearance from the firewall. That is to give you maximum clearance for your e-fan up front.

Bauto52; my best advice is that either route requires lots of research, careful measurements, and some mechanical aptitude to accomplish. In the end, it's a matter of preference. Some will tell you that S10 swaps are a "hack job", but if they are done correctly, they are very roadworthy and safe. It is important on either MII or S10 swap, not to cut corners. Nothing is more frightening than an unsafe vehicle!

User Error; The one on the passenger head should be between the second and third exhaust port. You can use that one, that is the "non ecm" sensor. That is used for the gauge. The drivers side should be between the 1st and 2nd exhaust port. Identified by a plug. Pull the plug and insert your new coolant probe or aftermarket sensor.

Coldshot: sandblasting may work, but likely it will work the wax farther into the pores. I always use the Muriatic acid.

Fod's Garage; You are correct. on 47-50 the rear stand should be 3/4" taller than the front. For 51-54, it should be 1/4" taller.

Californiadaddy; You need S10 V8 conversion headers. The ones you posted look to be correct, but be sure the drivers side header has the center 2 tubes sticking out. The steering shaft will have to go through those two tubes to the column. The headers should like like picture 2.

[skymangs]

Here are the promised pics of the 54. This is a long bed truck on a extended cab S10 chassis.

Lots of bells and whistles! 5.3 LS efi motor (drive by wire), 4L60E, Hooker cast headers, custom interior, 2 tone dash/fully painted interior, new steering column, 21 Circuit EZ wiring harness, Vintage Gen II Compaq AC, 23" Lokar Nostalgia shifter, Redline Gaugeworks VSS converted stock speedo, Custom Autosound stereo and kick panels, Power locks, electric wiper conversion, bear claw latches, Coker wide whites, artillery's, and LED taillights.

[Coldshot]

Thanks for the info. So you use 71 camaro mounts on the LS swaps? I'm just wondering if I can figure out a mount that would go to the stock frame cradles. There's lots of LS conversion mounts that can push the motor back to up to 6" or so.
I'll just have to get my body on first and measure I guess.
Do you have any pics of LS swaps you have done?

[skymangs]

Here's some exterior shots.

My next truck project is Cecil from Oklahoma, but it has it's own thread already.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Coldshot

Thanks for the info. So you use 71 camaro mounts on the LS swaps? I'm just wondering if I can figure out a mount that would go to the stock frame cradles. There's lots of LS conversion mounts that can push the motor back to up to 6" or so.
I'll just have to get my body on first and measure I guess.
Do you have any pics of LS swaps you have done?

I do have pics. https://www.facebook.com/OSGcustoms
I'll get a thread together on this '54 LS conversion by this weekend or so.

[bauto52]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Coldshot; I use 71 Camaro motor mounts now. (cheaper), and build my pedestals out of tube steel and 3/16th uprights. And yes. get your cab mounted up before you mount your driveline. You need an inch of clearance from the firewall. That is to give you maximum clearance for your e-fan up front.

Bauto52; my best advice is that either route requires lots of research, careful measurements, and some mechanical aptitude to accomplish. In the end, it's a matter of preference. Some will tell you that S10 swaps are a "hack job", but if they are done correctly, they are very roadworthy and safe. It is important on either MII or S10 swap, not to cut corners. Nothing is more frightening than an unsafe vehicle!
User Error; The one on the passenger head should be between the second and third exhaust port. You can use that one, that is the "non ecm" sensor. That is used for the gauge. The drivers side should be between the 1st and 2nd exhaust port. Identified by a plug. Pull the plug and insert your new coolant probe or aftermarket sensor.

Coldshot: sandblasting may work, but likely it will work the wax farther into the pores. I always use the Muriatic acid.

Fod's Garage; You are correct. on 47-50 the rear stand should be 3/4" taller than the front. For 51-54, it should be 1/4" taller.

Californiadaddy; You need S10 V8 conversion headers. The ones you posted look to be correct, but be sure the drivers side header has the center 2 tubes sticking out. The steering shaft will have to go through those two tubes to the column. The headers should like like picture 2.

Thanks for the info (all of it) it's my first build so i am reading all. I bought an s/10 and have stripped it to the frame, but still haven't made up my mind to use it,,thanks again

[918733]

Would you happen to know the specs on those artillery wheels and tires