1964 C10 fleet side swb

[SCOTI]

Getting closer!

[Justin71105]

Finally a month later all the parts came in, its rebuilt and they test drove it. They close early on Fridays so I cannot get it today bit I should have it back monday.

Got mufflers orderd and will get one in for the windshield wiper motor/harness/switch..

Need exhaust a d alignment before I start driving it mych more than the end of the street. Hopefully can get that all setup in about 2 weeks.

[Justin71105]

Got a Borla ProXs muffler for it, 2.5 in/out.

If the truck gets back home early enough I will weld the flanges on my headers. Then hopefully be able to gwt the rest of the exhaust put on sat along with an alignment.

Will order the newport wiper motor, harness and delay swotch tomorrow for it.

Going to put in a stock looking bluetooth radio in it ad well.

[Justin71105]

Got my truck back today and its moving under its own power finally after almost 4 long years. She looks like **** though with the door repairs so will likely be replacing the doors next year.

Need to take off the inner door panel and find the mirror mounts so I can drill those holes and weld the other ones drilled. Need to make a mount for the license plate and light.

Get the exhuast welded on and an alignment, bleed the brakes again they are a little spongy.

But it moves on it own now and after a few weeks I should be able to take it on its first outing. Will likely run it to the store this weekend after I bleed brakes once more and next weekend will have my exhaust system and alignment done.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Got my truck back today and its moving under its own power finally after almost 4 long years. She looks like **** though with the door repairs so will likely be replacing the doors next year.

Need to take off the inner door panel and find the mirror mounts so I can drill those holes and weld the other ones drilled. Need to make a mount for the license plate and light.

Get the exhuast welded on and an alignment, bleed the brakes again they are a little spongy.

But it moves on it own now and after a few weeks I should be able to take it on its first outing. Will likely run it to the store this weekend after I bleed brakes once more and next weekend will have my exhaust system and alignment done.

Sounds like a win to me. Take some pics when the victory lap happens

[Justin71105]

Looks like I will be ordering new doors this week. Went to install mirrors and the holes werent in correct spot.

So i opened inner panel and the brackets are there but bondod over it looked like.

So i sanded down the paint and found where the holes are. Drilled into door and it was lead, pulled back more paint for the other holes and theres about a 10" section of lead.

Doors already look pretty bad, so Im going to just order new ones now and be done with it.

Hoping my local speed shop still does parts orders so I can have them delivered there. Dont know how they freight works on them other than the price charged. But i would like to be home when delivered and probably wouldnt be able.

Thankfully I have been saving for 4 years for stuff like trans/ac and heat kit/doors.

[Justin71105]

If the doors are in stock the local shop said they will order them tomorrow with there big order.

Now will just have to drill for mirrors and move over all of my new door parts. Will order another section of window chanel, ripped mine on drivwr side installing it.

Need to do some research on mirror hole placement now, want them in the right spots. Hoping the bracing is in the door for them.

Will throw the universal mirrors on my current door to get on the rd and to the muffler shop.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

If the doors are in stock the local shop said they will order them tomorrow with there big order.

Now will just have to drill for mirrors and move over all of my new door parts. Will order another section of window chanel, ripped mine on drivwr side installing it.

Need to do some research on mirror hole placement now, want them in the right spots. Hoping the bracing is in the door for them.

Will throw the universal mirrors on my current door to get on the rd and to the muffler shop.

If there's no bracing, you can easily accomplish reinforcement of things w/some flat bar & epoxy.

[Justin71105]

A buddy of mine got his through lmc and said he has the bracing with bolts on both sides just no holes drilled.

If they dont this does sound good as well.

[Justin71105]

Doors were in stock agot ordered today. Also went ahead and got the newport wiper motor, delay switch and washer fluid pump.

Only other items I want is the vintage air kit and a stereo setup. Stock style radio with some speakers and maybe an 8" sub under the seat.

May move the engine ecm and place fuse box for body in its location when I do stereo.

[Justin71105]

First drive today, handles pretty well.

https://youtu.be/uaB20HBG8a8?si=GBR7CGf2Q7LVrshS

Can feel the posi when slowly turning in driveway, draging the spinning wheel. Other than that it handles perfectly fine, need an alignment and exhaust to be on the road.

Those longtubes with no muffler are LOUD, hoping in a week or two I can get it to an exhaust shop and alignment.

Then will do doors, wiper stuff and keep finishing it up on my weekends. Hopefully by the end of the year I can be driving it with everything done that I still want.

Think I will graft a tanks inc fuel box with door in bedside for fuel filler. Not liking the brake light filler I made for it. May have to cut and box in a small section of inner bedside but think it will be a better filler for me.

[66C10LB]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

First drive today, handles pretty well.

https://youtu.be/uaB20HBG8a8?si=GBR7CGf2Q7LVrshS

Can feel the posi when slowly turning in driveway, draging the spinning wheel. Other than that it handles perfectly fine, need an alignment and exhaust to be on the road.

Those longtubes with no muffler are LOUD, hoping in a week or two I can get it to an exhaust shop and alignment.

Then will do doors, wiper stuff and keep finishing it up on my weekends. Hopefully by the end of the year I can be driving it with everything done that I still want.

Think I will graft a tanks inc fuel box with door in bedside for fuel filler. Not liking the brake light filler I made for it. May have to cut and box in a small section of inner bedside but think it will be a better filler for me.

Hey. In case it helps, here is what I did with a Hagan fuel filler welded with quite a bit of modification into the INNER wall of a 1966 fleetside. I just have to decide if I need to add an overflow/vent to the side of the filler neck...

[Justin71105]

Looks good, hoping mine will look semi stock when done.

Going to have to use a 45° curved box for my bedside. My tank vents pretty good with the role over valve with 1/4" tubing run above the filler neck.

But with the small inline filter No Limit sent, it over flows on me, looking to either run a larger tube or a different filter or both.

[66C10LB]

Thanks, Justin, for letting me know your experience with venting. I may end up adding the 5/8 overflow/venting line from the tank to the side of the filler neck. I look forward to seeing your progress.

[Justin71105]

Scheduled to have my exhaust done friday morning. Hopefully can get alignment the same day or Sat.

Then should be able to take it around town. Doors and newport wiper kit are on the way. Once I get the doors on I will take it for tint.

Need to order the vintage air kit for it as well, may order it when I pick up the doors.

[Justin71105]

Exhaust done, not as loud as I was expecting but thats ok. Got plenty of growl and almost no drone in cab. Went with the 14" Borla ProXs.

Had to dump it before the axle for now, the brake line that runs across axle was too high to route pipe that way.

Will bend some more line and get that corrected. Probably leave exhaust alone for awhile though.

Couldn't find any openings for an alignment today but it drives straight and does not wander at all. Only did 25 miles but it drives very good.

Will get aligment done soon enough.

[Justin71105]

Was hearing some popping on slow speed turns and thought it may be posi.

When I got home yesterday, I jacked up front and went over all the bolts. I think the popping was the tire rod threads pulling out of coupler making the noise. Will find out tomorrrow when I drive it again but they were not clinched down fully for sure.

Other than that it has driven very well. Now waiting on doors and an extension for the wiper switch. Also ordered the ididit gear indicator for column to install.

Have the tabks inc fuel door on the way, going to graft it into driver bedside near tail light. Box the inner bed to make a place to route hose, pretty much butted up against the stake pocket.

[Justin71105]

I dont think it was the loose bolt on tie rode adjuster.

Well got under it around 7pm and started checking steering, checked bolts and greased everything again, just a pump or two.

Turned steering shaft and watched/listened to steering components for rubbing , binding, popping I was hearing.

Noticed there was a good bit of slop in the pitman arm where it attatches to the steering linkage when I rotated steering shaft back and forth. It was like it was not even pressed in, but cotter pin was in.

I remembered that I used the pitman arm I had left over from my 98 Silverado. I remember looking it up to make sure it fit... Well it fit the steering box splines, but the linkage side did not and I did not notice when installing.

The shaft on the 98 arm is around 2.5mm smaller than the 73-87 one I picked up tonight.

Installed the new pitman arm, the slop is gone from linkage totally now. Pressed in like I would expect, don't know why I didnt catch it when I did install but that was quite awhile back.

Have not driven it yet, it's a little late to go for a ride for me but I will test tomorrow.

I also put some white lithium grease on the joints for my internediate shaft, both U joint ends. I read this is another cause for popping coming from front end. Everything in the front end is new but also checked ball joints/bearings for any noise/movement and they are good.

Lucky I caught this issue with less than 25 miles on it, probably would have been caught at alignment but they may have even missed it.

Other than that everything else still seems to be good. Will also need to pick up a tie rod boot, one of them has a small tear and is pushing out some grease.

[Justin71105]

Still have popping noise when barely turning and slow speed, like under 5 mph.

Think it may be the coil springs settling, drivers side not perfectly spun in the cup on bottom. Hoping it will settle, if not will adjust later on.

Drives like a new truck other than that though. Steering tightened up considerably with the correct pitman arm, pulls a tiny bit to the lwft. Expect that to be fixed with the alignment.

https://youtu.be/pftyaLPJX6Y?si=RCnxNgXj-JYAibB7

[SCOTI]

Sounds good. Deeper than stock but didn't seem crazy loud.

The popping noise would be a concern for me but you're doing what you can trying to isolate the source. Hopefully you get that solved.

[Justin71105]

I have tightened everything up front I can find. Going to rotate the springs this weekend to sit perfectly in cup. Also pull brake rotors and check clearance with backplate.

It sounds like something heavy duty binding or rubbing and bumping over each other.

Only makes the sound when moving and do not have to turn wheel very much at all. I see the dust plates are touching the lower control arm so will trim those as well.

As far as steering nothing rubs or is loose that I can find. No noise going in a straight line. Have a buddy who is going to look under it while I am backing up and see if he can help isolate it to a component.

I am hoping its just the springs moving in cups, thats a pretty easy fix. Theirs not much else to go over I could think it would be. If its not the steering. Makes no noise at all when sitting on ground and turn wheel or on stands. Springs is the next most logical thing to look at and they are an inch or two from spun in the bottome cups perfectly.

[Braunschweiger]

The springs don't turn when you steer, is that the cause?
For me the Idler and Pitman arm came very close to the sway bar, so I set the sway bar lower.
Of course, only if you have one.

[Justin71105]

Nothing comes close to sway bar, no rubbing from any steering component at all from lock/lock and in between from what I have checked.

Backed out while trying to narrow it down and as soon as I heard it I stopped, got out and began looking at steering linkage, pitman, idler, tie rods etc...


I think the springs are not rotated in the cup fully.

The bottom spring cup has a stop where the end of the coil should be. It is around 2" from this stop right now. Then the upper cup has a D shape it should sit over.

I believe I am hearing the upper part of the spring gwtting caught on this cup and popping over it.

Will find out friday when I compress and spin them to correct position. Have also been told the springs may need to settle even after this.

Every piece of my steering and suspension is brand new so all of it may need a break in period.

Do not hear any strange noises while driving though, anything over maybe 5/8mph. Can take a turn and be good at speed, nothing over bumps etc...

I got my long weekends back so going to tear i to it Thursday after work and hopefully figure something out by Friday sometime. Will check wheel bearing pre load again and coil position.

[Justin71105]

Had a buddy listen while I backed up and drive fwd. Said sound was coming from rear end area. Said it sounded like brakes popping and to adjust.

Brakes drum was hot to touch when I got home so adjusted thrm and no change to popping. But did find a pinched hard line while looking around.

Made a new line and bled brakes, went for a deive and still hot to touch.

Believe sound is rear axles moving around some. Jacked it up and moved everything around. Axles move fwd and bk some when in park. Don't know if this is normal or not, it also moves in/out a tiny bit.

Read this movement is to allow axle to move in to remove c clips.

I did have the newer 30 spline axles installed with carrier. All new bearings and seals as well, this was about 2 years ago.


Here's the video of wheel movement, this is in park. When I out on jackstands and run in gear its a similar noise like when driving but not as loud. Will drain and fill rear end this winter and see what it looks like. Pulled fill plug and it has plenty of gear oil.

https://youtube.com/shorts/tYhdJU8Mr...q0IPm_1OEtyf3r

[Justin71105]

Went over to a buddy's today and we went for a ride in my truck. He listened to the noise, then walked beside it listening as I drove slowly.

Said ut sounded like the brakes, put it on stands and ran it in gear braking. Did sound like the shoes rattling.

Adjusted the shoes quite a bit tighter than they were.

Probably 10 clicks of adjustment, it is much better.

Going to drive it awhile and check them again in a few weeks.

Just about to hit 300 miles since I got it back and driving. Will likely check again when I do the 500 miles rear end oil change.