1966 suburban slammed fuel injected 6.2L

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Thanks man now I want one to tow my 65 around with.... Seriously awesome build!
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Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Nice work and progress!!

Originally Posted by VeronikA

Love your project! Very impressive work buddy! Keep up the hard work! It already looks awesome! And you picked very cool wheels too! Love them! V

thanks, its going to be a little warmer this week hope to make some more progress

[c.brown]

finally back at it heres some more progress had some clearence issues with dropmember and back spacing in front not much room for turning if you want to ride real low mocked the front clip hood is just sitting on there for pics

[awbrown]

Wow , you are making progress!!! looking good , think you will have it mobile by Power Tour time???

[youngrodder]

Looks great. You can't beat this MI weather to get a jump on truck projects.
Keep it up.

Marc

[gostranger]

the suburban looks great!!!! i am having the same type of backspacing problems with my front i also have the dropmember it looks like i will have alot of work to move the wheels in to get some steering to be able to drive!!!! it only looks like you have an inch or so for steering!

[creep]

Killer

[tincan1966]

Great build!

[gostranger]

Is the picture of the wheel and the gap between the fender aired up or all the way aired out?
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[c.brown]

Originally Posted by awbrown

Wow , you are making progress!!! looking good , think you will have it mobile by Power Tour time???

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Looks great. You can't beat this MI weather to get a jump on truck projects.
Keep it up.

Marc

Originally Posted by creep

Killer

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Great build!

thanks guys ,the weather has been great, hope to get some issues cleared up and keep moving foward on this build fell way behind with a bum shoulder last summer

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by gostranger

the suburban looks great!!!! i am having the same type of backspacing problems with my front i also have the dropmember it looks like i will have alot of work to move the wheels in to get some steering to be able to drive!!!! it only looks like you have an inch or so for steering!

Originally Posted by gostranger

Is the picture of the wheel and the gap between the fender aired up or all the way aired out?
Posted via Mobile Device

the pic is aired up to ride hieght ,im trying to get some answers from nate i let you know if i find anything out

[gostranger]

i found this thread on the dropmember that might answer some questions. i didnt notice a 1.5 inch narrower track and i cant drive low without the wheels hitting the lip of the fender and i trimmed the fender back a bunch i am still trying to figure this out myself.

I figured I would go ahead and include some more technical information in regards to the suspension/steering geometry of the Porterbuilt Dropmember and some background as to "why".

When I first designed the Dropmember back in 2004-2005 I spent a lot of time tweaking the geometry in order to make it accomplish exactly what I wanted. This system was never designed to be an "ultimate performance" suspension system... but I wanted to develop a system that was an improvement from the factory design, could be driven at an extremely low height, and plant the rails on the ground with a big wheel... without the need to "Z" the frame.

First on the list was the necessary ground clearance. The Dropmember moves the suspension up in the chassis so that the lowest part of the front suspension is actually 1.25" off the ground when the frame is resting flat (the lowest point is the lower control arm outer bushing sleeve). This allows the truck to be driven extremely low without hangin up on all the imperfections on the road.

Second was to narrow up the trac-width. The Dropmember narrows the track width right at 1.5" per side (from stock) allowing more tire clearance while riding and turning when extremely low.

Third, we wanted to move the wheel center-line forward to center the wheels in the wheel wells... mission accomplished. You can run a 22" wheel and not even worry about cutting into the firewall for tire clearance.

And while striving to accomplish these key points we also wanted to make some "improvements" to the C10 geometry.... as in it's factory design there is a lot to be desired. As many have been learning, thanks to Rob from No Limit and his "make it handle" thread, one of the key points to making these trucks handle better is to add caster. The Dropmember has 6.97 degrees of caster in its design.

Another key point we implememted was to design the camber curve to where it didn't gain a lot of camber through compression. We didn't want the truck to have extreme camber when aired out and have that "broken" look. Some might argue that camber gain is essential to a performance suspension... and it is... but that was not the overall goal of the Dropmember. The Dropmember only gains 1 degree of negative camber through 6 inches of compression. Doesn't make it stick in the corners like a porsche, but looks good at the show.

We also wanted to adapt a rack and pinion steering gear to the design, not just because we had to in order to get the trac-width narrowed, but it also decreased the sprung weight considerably. We mounted the rack high on the crossmember in order to accomplish all we wanted (with it being a factory replacement rack we didn't have the liberty to put it anywhere else). The downfall to this was the necessity to notch the frame for the rack's tie-rod clearance. Not too big of a deal for most guys looking for this type of product, as they would expect a little cutting and welding. The big upside is the angle for the steering linkage. On most motors and header combos its a straight shot. It was important to keep the bumpsteer in check as well, and we were able to hold to the standard of .1 degree of bumpsteer per inch of wheel travel.

If anybody has any more technical questions they can feel free to ask, as I will be more than happy to answer any questions.

On a side note... keep your eyes peeled for our performance version of the Dropmember as it is just around the corner.
__________________
www.PORTERBUILTSTREETRODS.com

Phone or Text: 480-297-2621

E-mail: porterbuiltdirect@gmail.com

Specializing in Chassis and Suspension Components for your Classic Chevrolet Truck.

[PBFAB.COM]

The Dropmember does narrow the trac width right at 1.5 inches per side. We also offer narrowed control arms for a bit more room, and CPP makes a spindle that will also bring it in a little more. These are a couple more options to bring it in some more.

Nate
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[gostranger]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

The Dropmember does narrow the trac width right at 1.5 inches per side. We also offer narrowed control arms for a bit more room, and CPP makes a spindle that will also bring it in a little more. These are a couple more options to bring it in some more.

Nate
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Nate providing that someone was to use everything you say also with the right backpacking does the gap between the tire and the fender look right or normal here on cbrowns suburban? I have a little less gap on mine using a twenty inch wheel can you tell me how much turning I could expect to have and how much you would normally have to cut on the fender and maybe hood to get a reasonable amount of steering keeping in mind it is a custom thanks!!!

CBrown sorry to hijack your thread!!!!!
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[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by gostranger

Nate providing that someone was to use everything you say also with the right backpacking does the gap between the tire and the fender look right or normal here on cbrowns suburban? I have a little less gap on mine using a twenty inch wheel can you tell me how much turning I could expect to have and how much you would normally have to cut on the fender and maybe hood to get a reasonable amount of steering keeping in mind it is a custom thanks!!!

CBrown sorry to hijack your thread!!!!!
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The gap doesn't look out of the ordinary in the pics, and as far as trimming the fender.... we always trimmed them out as far as we could (to the hood basically).

We ran the same configuration on Dino's panel truck and on his 66 (short bed that later turned crew cab), and at 3" off the ground (measured from the bottom of the frame to the ground) it would handle all driving conditions with an occasional "kiss" from the tire touching the fender lip when I would pull into a drive way. Lane changes and merging was never an issue 1/2" off the ground, but full lock to lock turns an inch off the ground were not gonna happen unless we narrowed it up more (and at the time there wasn't a modular spindle, and we didn't make arms either.... but it was never something that seemed to be a big deal).

Here's some pics of how we trimmed the fender on Dino's truck (post #19):
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=211503

[realnice1s]

C.Brown, You going to have this running for the Hot Rod Power Tour kick Off in Detroit this year?

[realnice1s]

C.Brown, Here's some pictures of the fender cutting I had to do on mine. Ride height is 5 inches, Unless I'm Showin Off. Then I won't turn to sharp. I have chewed up the fenders a bit. If it ever gets the paint done I'll try and be more careful.

[realnice1s]

Sorry. It won't let me load pictures. I'll try again later if you really need to see them.

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by realnice1s

C.Brown, You going to have this running for the Hot Rod Power Tour kick Off in Detroit this year?

Originally Posted by realnice1s

C.Brown, Here's some pictures of the fender cutting I had to do on mine. Ride height is 5 inches, Unless I'm Showin Off. Then I won't turn to sharp. I have chewed up the fenders a bit. If it ever gets the paint done I'll try and be more careful.

Originally Posted by realnice1s

Sorry. It won't let me load pictures. I'll try again later if you really need to see them.

hows it going, hope to have it running but not finished a few set backs 6l90 is just to big with the dropmember going to switch 4l65e how your truck

[c.brown]

GOSTRANGER talked with nate cpp makes a modular spindal that brings the wheel in almost an inch let you know if i figure out more

[Dinos63]

Mr C sorry i wasnt able to talk much today when you called. I did talk to Dave and it looks like the same amount of clearance I have had on my trucks but I run a much smaller tire. I am getting ready to freshin' up my panel and I will post some good pics. I do drive my stuff really low and nate is right... they're not made to go lock to lock. I had some issues on my orange sub and it was tough to drive layed out but I ran a 22x10 up front. Try that module spindle from cpp and a smaller tire. I know it sucks to have to buy parts twice and that the roads are rougher out where you guys are so you run a bigger profile. Try calling me later on after 5:00 pm and we can talk more.

[Dinos63]

opps and your truck looks killer !!

[gostranger]

Originally Posted by c.brown

GOSTRANGER talked with nate cpp makes a modular spindal that brings the wheel in almost an inch let you know if i figure out more

Hey thanks for the info I hate to think I have to spend that much more money on new spindles. and brakes after buying. 3" drop spindles that the tie rod hole has been drilled for the PB rack and 6 lug disks all new bearings and calipers.and pads.I am going to look and cutting my arms to get more clearance maybe trimming to the hood lip now I see why some people are running small tires and rims for more clearance while running low which was the whole point of my build I guess I will keep at it I am bummed about the setback!
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[c.brown]

Originally Posted by Dinos63

Mr C sorry i wasnt able to talk much today when you called. I did talk to Dave and it looks like the same amount of clearance I have had on my trucks but I run a much smaller tire. I am getting ready to freshin' up my panel and I will post some good pics. I do drive my stuff really low and nate is right... they're not made to go lock to lock. I had some issues on my orange sub and it was tough to drive layed out but I ran a 22x10 up front. Try that module spindle from cpp and a smaller tire. I know it sucks to have to buy parts twice and that the roads are rougher out where you guys are so you run a bigger profile. Try calling me later on after 5:00 pm and we can talk more.

Originally Posted by Dinos63

opps and your truck looks killer !!

ya i was able to talk to nate some of my problem wasnt so much tire size but my control arms (strong arms are an older model then what was on your crew cab so the shock mounnt is differnt not allowing the front to go all the way up for ride hieght so that part figured out and we where able to get some solutions for other things,wheres the pics of the 3 trucks your building now

[c.brown]

Originally Posted by gostranger

Hey thanks for the info I hate to think I have to spend that much more money on new spindles. and brakes after buying. 3" drop spindles that the tie rod hole has been drilled for the PB rack and 6 lug disks all new bearings and calipers.and pads.I am going to look and cutting my arms to get more clearance maybe trimming to the hood lip now I see why some people are running small tires and rims for more clearance while running low which was the whole point of my build I guess I will keep at it I am bummed about the setback!
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ya knowbody likes buying things twice was wrong on the spindle its called a newschool spindle wich is cheaper than the modular spindle,im going to cut some more off to but dont want cut my hood

[c.brown]

few steps backwards to move foward pulled motor trans and front clip back off but was able to get dropmember reinforcements painted and installed