Scott's '51 Build

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Flysocal

I'm with joedoe on this. Try moving it forward 1-2" it would look more centered. The middle of the wheel should be directly below the 2 holes for the fender support bracket. Then if it still doesn't fit, machine 1/2" off the wheel. I would opt for new wheels before messing with the axles.

You guys are making me think about this some more. I looked hard at the rear end placement and these big fat tires seem to fit differently than the puny rollers I had on before. I had the rod ends on the 4 link bars screwed out a ways and for some reason (my malfunction) it seemed good. Now they are screwed in tight and the wheels are about 1-1/4" back from centering under the two holes.

I will check and see how much I can trim off the bars and still have threads - or if I can tap them in further. This will pull the wheels up into a better position. Then I'll see what it all looks like. I will also have to look at how the coil overs fit and maybe add a spacer to keep them lined up correctly.

I pulled the bed back off and may also tighten up the fender lips with a BFH.

Thanks for helping me think through this!!

[kameltoes2015]

Great info, I have a similar issue with 4 link bar set up. The alignment(centering) is off a little and no more threads to play with.

[solidaxel]

It is much easier to shorten them !
We had to replace all 4 bars and X member, as we were 1 1/4" too short when the tires and bed was in final position

[Scott2]

I talked with the TCI tech guys today. They said it's not uncommon to have to cut the 4 link bars to adjust and center the rear wheels. They are apparently threaded about 3" inside so I should be able to cut off the 1-1/2" needed and just reassemble. Time to measure and check so I've got it right.

[joedoh]

Bam!

[Advanced Design]

Scott, progress is looking good. And good news on the fix for wheel centering. Have you looked at bed mounting with the cab also installed? Wondering about checking for fit of bed to cab to front fender placement over wheel centerline, before trimming the rear bars.

Sorry, I am probably way over thinking this one...

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Scott, progress is looking good. And good news on the fix for wheel centering. Have you looked at bed mounting with the cab also installed? Wondering about checking for fit of bed to cab to front fender placement over wheel centerline, before trimming the rear bars.

Sorry, I am probably way over thinking this one...

Doug - yes I have been thinking about it and it's probably the right thing to do -- and you're not overthinking it IMO. The time spent now will be worth it in the long run.

Yesterday I ran some string lines for the rear fender centerline and the center of the rear end and confirmed that with the bed mounted (front holes in the bed and TCI chassis are a single hole each so not adjustable without redrilling, rears have the long slot in the bed mounting "blocks" in the rear corners) that the rear end is ~1-1/4" too far back. I already knew that by position of the wheels but wanted to measure it and confirm.

I also stood looking at the truck for a while and was considering installing the cab and front fenders for a fit check. I had the cab and the bed both on before but I did not install the front fenders.

Sounds like a good Father's Day task.

Question: when installing the front fenders - how do you install those and the inner fenders? I installed the inner fender first before but then couldn't fit the fender over it - at least I couldn't figure it out at that time. Then I bolted the two together and tried and again and it's awkward at best. What is the proper way to do this?

Thanks!

[Advanced Design]

Usually I bolt the inner and outer together and get some help to install...son in law bonding time.

[Scott2]

I put the cab and a front fender back on today for a front tire/wheel fit check. I think the front tire fits pretty well and I'm glad I checked! It may be a little tight when turning but it's reasonably well centered.

I still need to center the rears so the next step is shortening the 4 link bars.

For the fender install I had the inner and outer bolted together and it installed easily. I can't remember why it seemed harder before! Memory loss may be a benefit here...

The bed is now off the truck and I took the opportunity to work the fender lips to tuck them in and give me a little more clearance. Hopefully it's enough.

[Scott2]

More progress. I put the bed on and got it spaced from the cab right. Then I measured and cut the 4 link bars. It turned out the threads didn't run very deep after all so I had to tap them out about another inch for the threaded rod ends. It's all reassembled now and the wheels are centered in the rear opening (they line up with the center of the rivets although for some reason these pics make them look a hair forward).

However, there is still almost no space between the rear tire and fender. They basically touch on both fenders and the u-shaped channel inside the fender above the tires above the tires is going to hit even though I already ground some of them off on each side.

Next step - pull the coilovers and take the rear axle thru full range of motion to see where the tires rub. More work to do!

[solidaxel]

That looks good from here !!
Is there a better choice on wheel backspace to clear the fender?

[joedoh]

look centered now, nice work

on my 47 kylie set it up to be ultra super low with giant rear tires and the inner fender brace was merciless on the tread, I raised it up a couple inches when I got it home. that brace is a killer.

I see you figured out your inner/outer fender thing, but just for the future, I try to keep the whole front clip together unless there is a compelling reason to take it apart, I have gotten good at using leverage to take the whole thing on and off by myself.

[Flysocal]

Looks awesome. Nice and low, nice stance wheels looks great. Maybe get a machine shop the remove 1/2" off the hub side? If it won't rub the bed. I know it's chrome but you'll never see it.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Flysocal

Looks awesome. Nice and low, nice stance wheels looks great. Maybe get a machine shop the remove 1/2" off the hub side? If it won't rub the bed. I know it's chrome but you'll never see it.

I have heard people recommend this before and always wondered, doesnt this make the mounting pad thinner? wouldnt you have to fill and redrill the lug holes to keep the same depth? just a question that always comes up for me

[mongocanfly]

I agree with joe..I wouldn't want to cut a half inch off the mounting face..that could very well get into the lug seat..and if it didn't I'd still be scared of it...

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by joedoh

look centered now, nice work

on my 47 kylie set it up to be ultra super low with giant rear tires and the inner fender brace was merciless on the tread, I raised it up a couple inches when I got it home. that brace is a killer.

I see you figured out your inner/outer fender thing, but just for the future, I try to keep the whole front clip together unless there is a compelling reason to take it apart, I have gotten good at using leverage to take the whole thing on and off by myself.

In hindsight I think you're right. This is the first AD I've done and when I ordered the chassis I needed to get rid of the original one ASAP and make room so everything just came off! On the other hand, I have to trim the inner fenders around the new front suspension and I'm going to fill a number of holes in them and them get them blasted for paint or powder coat. Anyway, now that it's all apart I'm sure it will be a pain to get it all back on and aligned!

[oldman3]

Scott, for what it's worth, I removed my rear fender brace and welded up the two small holes. Been driving it for 13 yrs and no problems. We aren't using these trucks like they did back in the day, people riding on the fenders in the hay field, etc....Jim

[Scott2]

Thanks for all the comments! I did look at the wheels to consider machining off a bit but there wouldn't be enough meat left IMO. There is only one backspace available in this series and size wheel so no options there.

I think I will just narrow the rear. I want the wheels to fit right and not rub and given that the rear end is not yet full of lube and the narrowing is relatively cheap and straightforward, it seems like the right thing to do. I've always liked Mark Stielow's approach with Camaro builds - he gets the tire and wheel combo he wants without any constraints, sets it under the car and builds the rear to fit, then fits sheetmetal around it.

Also - just heard that the wire harness is done and will ship today! I also spent a little time and installed the firewall brake booster and pedal and the New Port Engineering wiper motor. Next up is the install of the Vintage Air setup, the gas pedal w/TAC and the parking brake - of course, all will then come out for primer, paint, LizardSkin, and Dynamat, then all go back in.

[solidaxel]

Ask Justin if he will swap axles with you for a shorter one !!
How much room do you have on the inside of the tire to frame?

[Advanced Design]

Very nice work on wheel centering front and rear. Some narrowing and you will have it nailed.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Very nice work on wheel centering front and rear. Some narrowing and you will have it nailed.

Thanks Doug! I was able to pull the rear end and tear it down quickly, then got stuck behind a few rush jobs at the machine shop! The guy was great and had me drop it off Sunday AM and I just picked it up. Looks great! I just have to decide if I want to get it blasted and powder coated again, of resort to a spray bomb job. We leave Friday for two weeks of camping in West Yellowstone and Idaho so I'm thinking just relax, drop it off at the powder coater and get it back after vacation.

[solidaxel]

If you do have it blasted ask the blaster if he can cover all of the openings in the housing to avoid the sand that gets into everything in the tube!
It took several wash times to get the sand out of one I had blasted

[Scott2]

Solid - definitely will ask them to keep the sand out! It already has or could have some metal debris inside from the narrowing cuts so I'll have to do a thorough cleaning anyway.

Also made a mounting plate for my brake. I found a standard push-on/push-off pedal but needed a more solid mount than just screws into the kick panel sheetmetal. I copied other work I've seen on the board and welded a few nuts onto a 16 ga plate and will weld that to the kick panel.

[Scott2]

Worked some on the gas pedal too. The 2006 truck dbw pedal I have fit poorly against the floor so I made up another mounting plate and then boxed it into the floor. Seems solid and in the right place.

Brake pedal is high - as others have reported the POL firewall bracket, pedal and booster kit installs pretty high. The pedal is ~ 8" above the floor and as you push it forward it pivots up so ends up even higher. I will need to modify this to bring it down a bit.

Making progress - just slow progress!

[solidaxel]

Good idea on the Ebrake

How much will you need to trim from each axle?
I wonder how the machine shop alinges the flanges on the axle tube when welding?